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Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
We are here to help you with your TWP exterior deck or wood restoration project for 2024!
TWP is an advanced wood preservative/protectant registered by the EPA. Performance and longevity can vary though depending on the wood type, how the wood is prepped, the age of wood, and how the TWP is applied. We want everyone who has decided to use TWP 100, 1500, or 200 Series to have the best possible results.
TWP Stain Tips and Help
When asking questions please give us some information about your wood restoration project:
- What structure is your wood? Examples would be: Deck, Wood Siding, Fence, etc
- What species is the wood? Examples: Treated Pine, Cedar, Redwood, Ipe, etc
- Is the wood new or older than 1 year?
- Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Please specify brand name and type of stain used: Examples: Solid stain, Semi-Transparent Stain, etc.
- Any additional info that would be useful
Once you supply us with the information, we will able to give you advice as to how to prep your wood and any needed instructions for the TWP application.
Please ask your questions in the comment area.
Thanks
We are refurbishing our cedar deck and are planing down and using original cedar boards and had to purchase some new cedar boards in which we planed down as well. Please let me know how to properly finish off the deck with the stain. Note original cedar boards are 18 years old but with planing they came out looking brand new. We are going to do a final sanding before staining. Mississauga Ontario. Also I purchased 2 gallons today on your website but have not received an email indicating the order went through. My credit card was charged though. Please advise.
Treat all like new wood. https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I’m fixing to do a 30 x 30 with also a 12 x12 deck on one end. It’s PTP and has weathered about 18 months. I’ve ordered the stain and prep kit, I see you say less than90 degrees and try to avoid direct sunlight. I can get a day less than 90 here but my deck is all in the sunshine all day long, will that be an issue? Should I start at sunrise and work say four hours avoiding the afternoon and do it it sections, doing both coats on the sections as I go?
Again, I could do it all in one day but I would doing it in the direct sunlight and then afternoon high around 85 to 88.
Start in the morning and do one deck at a time. Try to avoid above 90 and direct sunlight when applying.
I was wondering when I could expect my refund for the samples I bought. I bought the 5 gallon stain at the end of June.
All set.
What: Juniper decking (2×6)
Age: Installed ~4 years ago; badly needs refinishing (prior owner had performed some maintenance but it’s apparent that it was not done properly)
Where: Seattle, WA
The existing finish is unknown and is a film-forming finish that is peeling, cracking and just generally failed. I want to go back with a penetrating stain. My contractor will be fully sanding the deck to remove the prior finish.
After sanding, what process and products would you recommend? I’m looking for whatever process will yield the longest lasting finish and easiest re-coat in subsequent years.
Thanks,
JA
Use this kit after the sanding for final prep: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Stain with the TWP 100 Series: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series
Hello
I want to remove twp stain that has built up over time with many maintenance coats and over application. The deck has turned black in some areas.
I was thinking of trying your cleaners and stain removers like restore a deck and the gel.
I looked on this website and could not find any product details and data sheet. I would like to know maybe the ingredients and safety information and maybe how toxic the products are.
Also does your deck brightener contain oxalic acid ?
Can you email me this information or perhaps tell me if its on the website.
Thanks
G
Use the stripper with both additives: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
The specs are attached. The brightener is a blend, not straight oxalic.
My cedar deck furred after powerwash, stripping and brightening. I used 3m general purpose pad to defurr wood number 7447. It worked great. My only concern is possible closing of grain to accept stain. I don’t think it should matter but wanted to check before going forward. Thanks
It should be okay to stain.
New pine deck installed summer of 2017. Initial application of TWP1500 Honeytone in early fall of 2017. Deck looked great. Had to clean and restain in Fall of 2018 as it looked mildewed and dirty much like it does today. There are pictures below are from 2018 and 2020. As you can see, the deck looks terrible in any area that is exposed to weather. The nice clean sections are where we have furniture usually. I don’t understand why the exposed areas are not holding up better. Per your own web site “At the 2-year mark you can expect TWP Stain to still have excellent UV graying prevention abilities.” What about mold? The discoloring and mold appear to be the biggest issues.
I’m really hesitant to yet again purchase your stain when I don’t even get 2 years out of it. I should have taken pictures last year as it didn’t look much better than this. Overall, I’d say I am thoroughly disappointed in this product as this will be the 3rd treatment in 3 years.
What are my options? I have to stick with an oil based stain at this point, right?
1) If I stick with TWP 1500, can I just use the deck cleaner and powerwash before reapplying?
2) Is there anything I can add to reduce the mildew?
3) Does the prep need to change at all if I move to the TWP100? Is that a better product for the issues I’m seeing? We used that on the deck foundation posts and they seem to be holding up much better. That would allow me to move up to a slightly darker color.
4) Does the prep need to include stripper if I change to another oil based stain like Cabots Australian Timber oil? That seems like a cheaper and potentially better product as I’ve used it before on the old deck and that looked better than the new deck.
5) If I do stick with TWP, is there anything I can do at year 1 that will help it hold up better. I never planned on having to restain every other year.
6) Could I put Wolman Raincoat oil based clear water repellent on top after the TWP dries and just update that every year? Would that help protect what appears to be an inferior oil based stain product that does not hold up to the weather?
Open to your suggestions.
Dave
1. Yes using this kit for prep: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
2. There are mildew additives on the market but your issue is more of problem of the mildew is on top of the stain and stains cannot stop this from occurring.
3. Strip and brighten if switching to the 100 Series: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
4. Yes, Cabot is not close to the performance of TWP since they changed their formulas.
5. It is normal to redo every 2 years. Nothing will last longer.
6. You cannot top coat the TWP. It will not work and will peel.
You may want to consider a darker TWP color like Pecan. Honeytone being the lights always fades faster.
20 year old deck(pic 1) and most of railing newer posts and top rail(pic 4) have been outside in loose pile for 2 years.some of the deck boards i flipped over due to damage (pic 2). one pic shows dark oily spots near sliding door(pic 3) please advise. 100 or 1500 series and which prep products? thank you
stain calculator tells me 365 sq ft. deck 10x 22 railing 50 steps 5 4 ft wide
Strip and brighten for prep. https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Use the TWP 1500 Series.
I’ll be installing 1×4 smooth-sawn Redwood slats to cover up an uneven brick wall in my patio in Southern CA. Because of the uneven brick wall the other sides of the wood will probably be exposed to moisture from rain, fog, etc., will I need to uninstall the slats to clean/prep then stain/seal with TWP 1500 as you’re instructing to weather the wood before all this? Can I just clean/prep-stain/seal the outward facing sides? The gap between the slats and wall will be less than 1/2-in. Thank you!
Just the exposed sides need to be prepped and cleaned after the weathering.
Is the TWP 100 series EPA accepted for application on docks over fresh water lakes? Thanks, Ken.
Yes but being oil-based, do not get the stain into the wood when applying. It is fine once fully dry.
We have a Cedar Deck that is 18 yrs old. We have cleaned & re-stained about 5 times. A friend suggested TWP, so, I’m looking into switching to your Product. So, it has been 3 yrs since last staining – with NON-TWP products.
So, can TWP go over the old stain, and, what is the proper prep procedure in this case?
Another question is for the space between the deckboards. There is some moss in places, so, does this space need to be cleaned/prepped as well?
Brian
TWP cannot be applied over a different brand of stain. You will need to remove it. Yes, you will have to remove the moss.
What do you recommend for getting paint off this section of deck. I can not reach it with the sander.
The only way to remove is to sand so you may need to purchase or rent a sander that will fit under the rail.
Okay. Thank you so much for the quick reply. We are trying a heat gun with a scraper now and that seems to be working.
I have used Cedartone 101 and love it. It has been too long since last application. On the east side of the house the siding is lighter in color that on the West side which is more shaded. After power washing I struggle to know whether I need to use the Genesis kit or is just power washing sufficient? It is Rough sawn cedar and this will be my third application in 15 years. Also I struggle to know how to do a wet on wet in the gable ends without using scaffolding, any tips?
You should use the Gemini Restore Kit while pressure washing for prep. As for wet on wet, see here for tips: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
I am consumer. I had my golden oak deck finished with TWP(1504 Black Walnut 350 g/l max voc formula) on 7/18. When it was done the coating was uneven, so that certain areas of the same boards were darker than others. I was advised that a second coat may not adhere so it was not performed. The deck looks awful now, uneven and no water repel. Two remedies have been proposed: 1) sand down to raw wood and stain with one or two coats. 2) Spot sand most worn areas and refinish with one or two coats over existing surface. HELP?
Neither. Strip and brighten to remove all and start over is the best route to fix this: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
I have a new cedar deck being built today, July 10, 2020. This page says new wood should be allowed to weather for 4-12 months before applying stain. My builder says that he’s never seen a problem with staining cedar after only one month of aging. So which is the minimum aging period for a cedar deck? One month, or 4-12 months?
This deck is in the Detroit, Michigan area, where currently we are having humid 90+ degree days, but six months from now, the highs will be in the 20’s and the deck covered in snow.
4-12 months is correct: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Location: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Structure: Fence
Species: Western Red Cedar
Age: 100ft is 4 years old, 100ft is 2 years old, 100ft is brand new
Previous Stain: The 4 year old and 2 year old fence has Sherwin Williams SuperDeck Oil based semi-transparent cedar tone stain.
I started building my fence 4 years ago and have completed it in three phases. The first phase was 100ft and completed 4 years ago. I applied Sherwin Williams SuperDeck Semi-Transparent oil based stain upon completion. The second phase was 100ft and I completed that two years ago and then applied the same stain. Then, this week I completed the final 100ft and am ready to stain. I would like to stain the entire section all at one time this go around.
I am not pleased with the Sherwin Williams product, or at least interested in exploring others. It seemed to fade fast and most of the fence looks mildewy. What process and product would you recommend to retreat the 4 year and 2 year old fence, along with the brand new section? I like the grain of the wood to show through the character of the wood, but also want it to be protected. Also, do you have a color that is just slightly darker and more on the brown than red side of spectrum from cedar tone?
Thank you
For the stained areas, use this for prep: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
For the new wood, use this: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Use both while pressure washing. Stain all with the TWP 1500: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series
Try Pecan 1520 or Dark Oak 1503.
Thank you for the quick reply! I have a few follow up questions.
1. What is the difference between the TWP 100 and 1500 and what makes one more suitable for my location?
2. Is this the best place to buy, or is it better to go through a local distributor near zip 97321?
3. Do you send out samples?
1. Slightly better UV protection on a fence for the 1500.
2. Buy direct from our website.
3. https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
Hello
I recently purchased a pergola made of Chinese Cedar and erected 1 month ago. The product came pre-stained for color only with a water based stain and no sealer. The company states on their website “The wood on our Backyard Discovery products are flash heated which dries the stain fast into only the first few layers. This allows you to re-stain or paint with a different color on top of the pre-stained wood, you can also use a water or oil based sealant on the pre-stained wood as well.”
Based on their information, can I use the TWP 100 or 1500 stain directly on the pergola or do I need to strip it. If not, why is it you can re-apply a stain/sealer one year later but cannot apply a stain/sealer to a different manufacturer’s stain?
FYI, rain water does soak into the wood.
Also, is your stain an effective sealer?
Thank you for your response
Jeff
Hello,
You cannot apply the TWP over a different brand of stain. In fact, no sealer can be applied over a wood stain, they are giving wrong advice as a sealer will not soak in or adhere over a stain.
You will need to strip it and then brighten it for prep. Do this next year.
Can I apply TWP 100 on my new deck as the initial coat and apply TWP 1500 for the second coat. The deck faces west and the wood gets hot during the summer months.
No, you cannot do this. Also see here about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
My deck is redwood, about 30 or more years old, has had a few different applications of stain, including Cabbot’s Deck Correct, which is more like paint, and I have been using a belt sander to get down to the original redwood. Is this now considered “new” wood ? I also have some rotten places and plan to fill them with woodepox a 2 part paste filler. Will TWP pro100 penetrate this product making it match the redwood (somewhat)? I’m in Whitefish, Montana.
Wood filler will not work or blend when stained with TWP. Do not use it. it will look really bad. Just one coat of the TWP to sanded wood. Clean and brighten with the Gemini Restore Kit for final prep: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
one coat to sanded wood. Clean and brighten w/Gemini Restore Kit for FINAL PREP???? Am I not done after applying stain to the sanded wood?? Having sanded it, it can’t get any brighter/cleaner! The wood filler says it will take stain, it is WoodEpox by Abatron.
No, the filler will not take the stain and will not blend. Yes, you have to clean and brighten the wood for the final prep to open the pores of the wood after sanding.
Now I am confused – one reply says one coat of TWP then clean/brighten – the last says I have to clean/brighten for final prep to open pores….which is it? What is first – one coat stain then clean/brighten? or clean/brighten (to open pores) then stain?
You prep first before staining, not the other way around.
Is there a difference between RAD clean/brightener and Gemini clean/brightener?.
Different labels.
Trying to learn what is the difference between 100, 200 and 1500 series? we just applied 2 coats of 100 Cedartone and the wood still looks a bit “too dry” . Can we apply a 3rd layer of TWP Cedartone 1500 series on top. Will this work OK and give richer color and some extra PROTECTION ? Detroit, MI
The 100 is correct for MI. No, you cannot apply a third layer of TWP. TWP is a penetrating stain that needs to fully soak in. More is not better and will lead to issues with drying and potential failure.
Your assistance is terrific, thank you for the advice! We won’t do the 3rd coat but are considering if we should sand the deck and put 1-2 new coats of TWP 1516 – is the 1500 series more protective? I would like to understand the different series better. We have a section that stays moist and seems to darken with mold or something like that. The TWP 100 Cedartone did not give strong coverage, it shows too many imperfections. Many thanks again!
Using the 1500 would not give any more protection or advantage. Just leave as is. The 100 and 1500 look and perform the same. When using a penetrating stain like TWP, you will see the wood grain fully and it will not hide imperfections in the wood.
I live in the Seattle area. Do I use TWP 100 series?
TWP 100 Series.
Hi
I live in hot humid SC. I have several 30 yr plus decks
and one dock that goes to a pond that I am planning to treat. Please advise me on the best, longest lasting
Stain to apply to the decks and one dock?
Please note that I am having someone pressure wash
All decking, and the one dock.
Please note;
Because of recent flooding our pressure treated Dock was under water for two to three months.
Any help is appreciated
Pictures attached
Thank you
Ruth Mycko
For prep, use the Stripper and the Brightener kit while pressure washing: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Stain with the TWP 100 Series: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series
For older wood … and considering a “wet-on-wet” application……. how much coverage should I expect for 1 gallon of TWP 200?
What is the difference between TWP200 and TWP1500?
About 100 sq feet for 2 coats. TWP 200 is designed more for shakes and shingles while the 1500 is for all exterior wood types.
What structure is your deck? Wood.
What species is the wood? Doug Fir – (but it’s 3″ thick)
Is the wood new or older than 1 year? Yes – It’s 6 year old.
Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Yes. 3 years ago it was sanded and stained with a Mesmer product – oil based (I think). It was their Chocolate Brown color but made the wood look red. They came back a year later and added another Mesmer stain, but used a custom blueish tint to made the red look brown. It’s been two years and both are wearing off and its kind of a mess.
What I would like to have is something that will make the wood look as dark as possible and that I can reapply every year or two without having to stain the deck. The only comparison I have is an ipe deck that we had at a different house. Penofin oil renewed it and it looked great for a year or two. I understand this wood is not close to a Brazilian hardwood, but can you recommend anything that you may have? It sounds like the TWP 100 could be a great product – would it work?
Remove the Messmers first with this: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Once done, try the Dark Oak color for a rich darker brown.
If the deck already has a couple old coats of CWFlood UV clear deck stain, can I apply TWP directly over it?
No, the previous coatings need to be removed first.
1. What is the most effecient and effective application of the stain using a pump sprayer? For example, what is the best way to avoid getting the stain on the trim? Should I use something to block the stain (i.e. cardboard) while spraying? Is spraying witin 5 inches of the trim and using a brush for the remaining part the best option?
2. Should the shingles (siding) be brushed after spraying to even out things out?
3. Should I start from the bottom or the top of the house?
4. Should I apply a second coat?
5. Can I use Oxyclean to clean the shingles one last time (then letting them dry for 48 hours) before begin to stain?
6. How long until I have to reapply (in terms of years)?
1. Mask off with plastic tarps.
2. Yes.
3. Top.
4. Wet on wet. 2 coats.
5. No, use a proper deck cleaner and then a wood brightener.
6. For siding, every 3-6 years.
I am doing a tongue and groove ceiling on a my deck. I am using 100’s Honeytone. Can I put spar polyurethane on it for shine and moisture/mildew control?
No you cannot top coat the TWP.
How I can remove TWP stain from driveway . I try muratic acid don’t work
Try a graffiti remover and pressure washing.
Why use the 100 series vs the 1500 series?
How do you obtain the color samples to test on our wood?
Samples are here: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
Hello, I need advice on which product to use to strip Behr semi-transparent stain off of brown pressure treated pine which is 4 years old. The stripper needs to be non toxic to pets.
My other question is which stain do you recommend for Northwestern Ontario (climate is very similar to Duluth, MN.)? We have full sun, part shade, and shade exposure with mildew issues.
I am attaching some pictures.
Thank you.
That is a solid stain in appearance so that means you will have to sand it off and a stripper will not work fully to remove. Brighten after. Stain with TWP 200 Series.
We live near Nashville, TN – deck is PT pine, two yeas old (built 3 months before we bought the house) and has never been treated with anything (turns out a baby will slow down your to-do list). The deck gets a ton of UV, from late morning on every day with no shade. Some of the boards are significantly cupped – my plan was to sand before application, but in comments you have indicated that will inhibit penetration. If I sand then use cleaner/brightener will that open it back up so it receives the stain well? Also, would you recommend 100 or 1500 series where UV damage is the main risk (we’re more like 3.5 seasons here than winters up north or midwest).
Use the 100 Series. If you sand, dot hat first prior to cleaner and brightener kit.
have red cedar clapboards that were stripped and brighten, 4o years old, looking for a solid stain oil based. a dark stain is preferred, any thoughts? Last stain used was twp clear
Sorry but TWP does not come in a solid stain.
Wondering if TWP can be used to stain composite decking and if deck cleaning recommendations are any different. My deck is Fiberon.
Sorry, but no, it is not designed for composite wood.
Hi,
We used the restore a deck cleaner and brightener and 1500 natural stain. Love the results. Waited a full week to replace the deck furniture which is wrought iron. The feet on the chairs and table are leaving black rings on the deck. I don’t want to ruin all the hard work I did. Have you seen this before? For now I put cardboard under the feet.
That is rust from the chairs. No way to prevent it.
Thanks! Think we will get new chairs! Love your product.
Good morning,
We are doing a major remodel on our house.
We have just sanded down (6) cedar columns, see attached picture.
We have a new front door we put in a few years ago, see attached picture. (We would like to keep this color, no changes)
I have also included a picture I found online that we would like to try to match in stain color (cedar columns), see attached.
In this picture their is also a feature above the door, cedar work (beam work) above the porch. We are also going to install one of these as a major feature once we build our new gable on our roof.
My question is what type of stain and what color would you recommend to try to emulate these colors.
We live in the state of GA. We do get full sun on the front of the house.
Thank you for your assistance.
Jeff
Look at Pecan in the 1500 Series for the columns: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series
I have new Douglas fir 2x6x16 to build a covered patio roof. Can I use a wood cleaner sand and pre stain or should I wait?
You need to wait: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I plan on applying two coats of twp stain “wet on wet” as instructed (basically apply the 1st coat then wait about 30min to apply the 2nd coat).
Questions:
– When applying the 2nd coat, how do you avoid damaging the 1st coat since you’re literally walking on it right after application?
– Won’t there be foot prints on the 1st coat? (obviously the 2nd coat should cover them up but I can’t help think it will “rough up” the 1st coat and footprint might be visible after applying the 2nd coat?
– Are there special precautions to take (i.e. wear shoe booties?)
This is the first time I’ve ever applied a 2nd coat of stain so quickly after the first. So I’m worried about damaging it. So any tips here would be great.
See here for tips: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
Walking on your fist coat will not leave footprints. Do not step in your second coat.
I have a 15 year old log sided cabin located in mtns of NC. The wood is pine flat siding about 3/4inch thick contoured to apply false chinking if desired. It has been stained once with WOODguard oil base stain.
It has only the original stain and only slightly repels water right under eves.
Sunlight has darkened lower areas of the siding.
Please let me know what you would recommend.
Strip and brighten for prep: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Use the TWP 1500 Series after.
Here are pictures – about 12 hrs drying. Looks very dull and has a “haze” a few spots seem wet, not tacky: any idea why it would seem dull or have that haze? The rails are not like this – dried perfect.
TWP is not supposed to be shiny but a matte or no shine. You over applied it in the shiny areas. The rest of the wood looks correct. Also, this looks like new wood? If so you way over applied and not sure if you weathered the wood and prepped it correctly? https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
The wood is about 15yrs old. Sanded off old TWP (cedar) and now applying the dark oak (area was Washer/prepped a week prior). For the area that looks “Shiny – over applied,” will that just take more time to dry or do I need to correct it somehow? Also, this was 3 coats as the wood kept quickly soaking it in – done “wet on wet.” Still have second half of boards to finish, should i continue with the 3 coats or back it to 2 coats? TIA
You did a nice job with the sanding as it looks brand new. See here for shiny areas: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-is-spotty-or-shiny/
We would suggest just the two coats. Thre is never a good idea and “more” is not better. It can lead to issues with curing and drying.
This is my second deck project using the 100 series Dark Oak. Beautiful color!! Our deck first project came out perfect. Now onto our back deck….it was Prepped the same as our first….Same weather conditions. Etc. However, this deck flooring is drying with a white haze. It’s not sticky and not tacky. Just has a dull haze. Applied wet on wet, but 3 coats as the wood was rapidly absorbing the stain. There was no pooling and seemed to apply nicely. Just while drying a white haze seems to be happening and it’s dull. Any reason for this? Will it disappear when cured?
There is nothing in the stain that would make it white so not sure what you mean? It should dry fine.
I am trying to decide on which of your TWP products to use? Where is a comparison of them with information which would help me decide. I have looked over the site and still do not see enough information to help me decide. My deck is about three years old, and I have previously used Cabot Australian Timber Oil – Natural. This fall I am having the deck and benches around it sanded, as I am not happy with my last application. The deck boards are WeatherShield 5/4 in. x 6 in. x 16 ft. Premium Ground Contact Pressure-Treated Lumber from Home Depot.
Where are you located?
Dallas, Georgia 30132
Use the TWP 100 Series: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series
I used gemini restore-a-deck on June 19. See pictures for results. Deck looks ready for stain. Unfortunately weather isn’t working out. I understand the following is required prior to staining:
– Deck is dry for 48 hours
– No rain for 48 hours AFTER staining
– After you prep with gemini, you have two weeks to apply stain
Questions:
– If I exceed the two week staining window by two or three days, will I need to clean again/brighten with gemini? Is it that big of a deal?
– What if I don’t stain until mid-July (3 weeks from the prior cleaning/brightening) – would I definitely need to use gemini again?
– If I need to reapply gemini, since the deck is pretty clean already, can I safely assume that I don’t need to be as aggressive with the product and pressure washer for a second round of cleaning/brightening?
Thank you,
S
-Lightlty wash and brighten if longer than 2 weeks
The TWP can be rained on 12-24 hours after applying.
My 1050 sq. ft. cedar deck (10 years old) had TWP 100 101 Cedartone. The deck was stripped, a water pressured method used to strip and then brightened, water pressure again. There is quite a bit of furring and lines from pressure washing. The contractor waited 2 weeks for settling and good weather. When they applied TWP 100 Cedartone 101 today it is uneven and not attractive (see photos). We have stopped to re-evaluate and would appreciate your ideas how to move forward.
Best to remove the current coating, let dry, sand with 60-80 grit, brighten again, then apply the TWP 101 again.
Thanks so much! If we use an orbital sander for fuzz on the part that has not been stained to remove fuzz. Can we use the sander to remove the stain that was just applied vs having to strip it? Also if we brighten it again after sanding won’t the fuzz come back?
You will need to strip off the stained area first. Sanding should remove the fuzz.
I live in Oklahoma and have a cedar fence that is 1 year old; am planning on staining it this summer, using proper prep techniques suggested here. Probably using CedarTone. Do I use the 100 or 1500 and what are the differences?
Use the TWP 100 Series in Oklahoma.
In California some Counties do NOT have restrictions on VOC’s greater than EPA limits. In my area VOC limits are dictated from U.S. EPA National Architectural Coating Rule 63 FR 48848: 550g/L is the allowed “Wood Preservatives, Clear and Semitransparent” limit. As a licensed contractor we legally use high VOC products in select counties. Can I please arrange to get 100 series products shipped to me as they are compliant in my area?
Comparisons….. I’m not sure if this is the place to ask this kind of question….but what makes TWP better than Cabot semi-transparent staine or Cutek Extreme?
TWP is an EPA registered wood preservative. The only one on the market that is. It is also a fully penetrating oil-based stain that soaks int to the wood grain and does not peel, making reapplication much easier. The other two are not
We have a small cantilevered ‘balcony’ deck off a bedroom on an upper floor. The siding underneath is fiber cement (like Hardiboard). Do we need to protect the siding from the prep chemicals in the Gemini restore a deck kit?
Same question for the flowers and shrubs directly underneath the deck.
No, but prewet and rinse all areas when done to remove dirt, soap suds, etc.
I’d like to switch from the cedartone 101 to the rustic 106. It has been 4 years since the cedartone was applied. I powerwashed the deck and it seems pretty porous. Do you think it is ready for a change in color? The deck is about 30 years old and hasn’t been treated very often.
Send pictures.
I just finished staining our 15+ year old cedar deck with TWP100 rustic. Generally pretty happy… But there are some areas that are noticeably shiny…. They are dry to the touch and not at all tacky however. Stained 4 days ago. Should I be concerned or do anything… or will it just cure out eventually? We had light showers on day 2, but just beaded up… warm and sunny last two days.
Also I do see a fair amount of color variation which I assume is mostly due to variation in oxidation of such old wood? Some area where the wood was in pristine shape (under roof line) are darker than areas in the middle…
Thanks
Steve
Just let it cure. Colors will vary based on the wood and how absorbent it is.
Does the 4 month waiting period you stated that is required
to apply twp stain apply to UNTREATED tounge and groove Pine? is this for all climates ? I live in Louisiana where there is lots of humidity so leaving untreated for 4 months would still be the recommendation ? Or do you have a stain / sealer that can be used sooner ?
You still have to wait and prep.