Last Updated on June 7, 2021 by TWP Help
TWP with Wet on Wet Application Tips
TWP Stains are to be applied “Wet on Wet” when the wood is absorbent enough to handle more than 1 coat of the stain. This is typically for wood and decking that is older than 12 months and has been exposed to the elements. Applying the TWP “wet on wet” is similar to applying 1.5 coats of stain. The second coat covers twice as much square footage as the first coat.
Applying TWP “wet on wet” is very easy and not complicated once you understand the simple steps.
How To Apply TWP Wood Stains “Wet On Wet” to a Deck:
- Apply the TWP to the verticals first. This would include the railings, benches, and any vertical walls.
- Lightly apply one coat of stain to the horizontal flooring. Apply to the entire floor surface. If your deck has multiple levels, do one level at a time before moving to the next level.
- Wearing shoes that are disposable, walk back onto the “wet” stain and reapply another coat to the “tops” of and railings, walls, and benches. You may walk on your first coat of stain 10 minutes after finishing.
- Apply your second coat of stain to the horizontal flooring. Take care to not step in or leave footprints in your second coat!
- Finish stairs last, repeating the above steps.
TWP Staining Tips
- Do not apply 2 coats of stain to new wood or decking or to recently sanded wood that was sanded finer than 60-80 grit as the TWP stain may not be able to fully absorb into the wood.
- In most cases, a second coat only needs to be applied to horizontals as the verticals will last twice as long.
- Apply your second coat of stain within 10-60 minutes of the first coat.
- Watching for puddling on the floor. This usually happens under railings and benches.
- Wear shoes and clothes that are disposable.
- TWP Wood Stains can be applied with a stain pad, brush, roller, or sprayer.
If You Need any Help, Please Ask Below!
The old wavy cedar siding in Florida has been prepped and ready to stain — like in the next hour. The wood looks damp, could be dew as I’m writing in early daylight. Is it okay to stain the wood when it’s not completely dry?
No, has to dry for 48 hours after prep or getting wet.
I have a fence that has been stained with TWP 100 series several times. It’s time to stain it again. Can I use the 1500 series this time around or do I need to stick with the 100 series?
Stick with the 100 Series.
Apparently I put on too much stain and it is still sticky after 3 days. How do I resolve this situation?
https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-is-spotty-or-shiny/
Just bought pressure treated 2×6 lumber for mailbox post. Feels heavy and looks wet. Can I use your TWP stain on this wood right away, but must I wait some period of time?
Wait and prep: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
What application method do you recommend?
How to apply is explains in the above article. Use one of these applicators: https://www.twpstain.com/wood-and-deck-stains/application-tools/brushes-stain-pads
How dry does the wood need to be before application? We are dealing with humidity issues. And, if we do stain dry wood, but are hit with a heavy morning dew the next morning, will this affect drying time? Thanks!
48 hours after prep or rain. Humidity does not matter. Can take a dew 8-12 hours after applying.
If a person inadvertently sanded with 120 instead of the recommended 60-80, would the RAD strip-and-brightener “open up the wood” some so that the stain could penetrate in spite of the error?
Sand again to 60 and then use the Gemini Cleaner and Brightener Kit, not the stripper.
If I am re doing my deck after a few years along with the cleaning process do I need to do wet on wet application again?
Yes.
I have a new ground-level deck with new kiln dried wood. We *generously* stained it last weekend with TWP 1530. All absorbed but it took a couple days. Now some of it looks a bit shiny and some of it is not. It is possible to put a second coat over all the horizontal or it’s too late? Thank you
It is not supposed to be shiny at all. Do not add more. BTW, new wood has to weather and be prepped. Sounds like you did not follow these directions?
I spoke with the folks from who I bought the wood and the stain and followed their instructions.
According to them, the wood was kiln dried, with no additional cleaning necessary, did not need to be weathered, and could be directly stained.
This was not ordinary green wood.
This doesn’t quite answer my question though about can a second layer go on top of a first layer if the first layer has already dried.
They were wrong and no, you cannot add an additional coat. It will not take and dry correctly.
See here about new kiln-dried wood.
https://twpstainhelp.com/kdat-and-twp-wait-period-for-new-wood/
Thank you for the information. Well what’s done is done. All of the stain seems to have soaked in. There are no longer any shiny spots. And the wood seems to be repelling water.
This is good information for someone who is looking at the forum in the future
What is the proper method for reapplying future coats as a maintenance and upkeep?
Clean and brighten for prep with this: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
At what temperature can the stain be applied? If the temperature falls overnight is it okay?
50-90 for applying. Can drop lower over night but not below freezing.
I purchased 5gal. bucket of 1500. How much time do I need to spend stirring? Is a wooden paddle sufficient, or does it require a drill operated mixer?
We like the 5-gallon paddle mixers that attach to a drill.
I applied a single coat of TWP 100 seris in early May 2020. I just applied wet on wet application. How long should I wait to move back the furniture and how long will the wet on wet application last?
Thank you
Wait to fully dry and cured. Typically 24 hours or so. Redo every 2-3 years.
Hi, I asked a couple of questions earlier. I have two more to add 🙂
1. The contractor says he has not worked with wet on wet application before. I don’t want him to over apply and leave me a tacky mess to have to clean up. How can one tell if the wood is ready fir a second coat if it is still wet (i.e stain has not soaked in yet)?
2. Will a second coat give a darker color and last longer? Can the same result be achieved by a one good coat or is it better to do two light coats?
Thanks!
Soaks in within an hour. Need two light coats for max appearance and life.
Hi, I have two questions:
1. I have applied a couple of twp 1500 colors in a few test spots. How long should I give it to dry before I can see to which color to go with?
2. I have mixed boards of different age, I know they will absorb the stain differently. I can already see the two previously unstained boards of significantly different age, prepped the same way, looking different. I am wondering if going with darker shades would work better for blending than lighter shades?
Thank you for your thoughts and information.
3-4 hours. You will not be able to blend no matter what so stay with same color.
Thank you, please delete my other post with the 4 questions if you can ( I am unfortunately unable to). I will put my remaining questions here:
1. How can one tell if the stain is being over applied to correct ‘as you go’? Is a little bit of pooling ok, especially when applying the second wet on wet coat, but avoid obviously large puddles, or is all pooling to be avoided? Can over applied stain be soaked up with a rag right away?
2. What is the correct ranking for the following twp 1500 colors from lighter to darker: a.natural b. cal redwood c. pecan d. cedartone?
1. If it soaks in right away then apply a second coat. Any excess can be removed after 60 minutes if needed.
2. Honeytone, Natural, Pecan, Cedartone
Thank you again! I am assuming excess can be removed with a dry rag without using mineral spirits, but please let me know if that is not right. Where does CA redwood fall in this list? Some of the samples I received last year from a local supplier seem about the same! Not sure if they were mislabeled.
Yes. Cal Red is between Natual and Pecan.
I have attached a few pics of my stain job with the 1500 oil based . We had no rain forecast . As I was staining it rained lightly but enough to get it all wet. As you can see I have discoloration. It’s been 24 hrs at this point. I’m not sure how to fix this. Any ideas ? The pic on the left is when it was wet, The others are today when dry. Thanks for any help.
You will have to redo the floor. Strip and brighen for the prep with the Restore A Deck Kit.
I have a pine deck that is 3 months old. Should I just do 1 coat of stain or wet on wet?
See this about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
just to be sure…..it’s best to do the first coat for the entire deck surface and then 2nd wet on wet coat (vs. wet on wet in sections). I have a 300 sf deck, thinking I’ll be able to do the first coat on the whole surface and apply second wet on wet coat w/in one hour. If it’s going slower should I do sections?
Do the entire deck and then recoat.
Stained ( 1502 semi t) my prepared / sanded deck a few hours ago. Finished 1st coat in about 70 minutes and then started wet on wet 2nd coat starting in the area that I first applied the stain. Second coat really made the color pop and looked great. Just went out now ( 4 hrs after finishing 2nd coat) to check how it was drying and found that when I touched the surface stain was still wet. Will this eventually dry over the next 12 hrs or will it need to be wiped off? Thanks for your help.
It will most likley dry fine. Just give it time.
Ok, we did it! 1year old pressure treated pine decks were weathered from FL rain, mold & blistering sun with no prior treatment. We used a concoction of industrial strength bleach, & detergent and sprayed the dampened decks with this stuff. After letting this stuff sink in, went over everything with a pressure washer. This took a couple of days to get everything cleaned & rinsed and lumber looking new.
A few dry days later we went with 1 coat of TWP 100, honeytone. This lumber seemed too new to do wet on wet? Hope we didn’t ruin the project.
We used pads to apply and throw-away trim brushes.
10 hrs for 2 guys spent on cleaning; not even 3 hrs for 2 guys to apply. Only way into the house is by a deck, so we left a small pathway; when it’s all coated will take pictures.
Biggest concern is having put the product on in August where parts of the deck get a good amount of mid-day sun.
Hi there! I just stained my large cedar deck yesterday with the 1500 series (after serious sanding efforts with 80 and then 120, followed by applications of the red/green restore-a-deck products and then 48 hours drying time). We applied 2 coats wet on wet and the deck is still super wet today. I’m worried that we overapplied. There are even a few spots in the middle where I think I see some pooling. Given how wet the deck still is, when/how do I try to remove some stain? How do I avoid leaving footprints when I do so?
Yes, you over sanded and over-applied. Use mineral spirits and wet rags to wipe down the excess stain on the deck. Soak all oily rags in water and lay flat outside to dry when done.
Can you say a bit more? So, do I make the rags damp first and them pour on mineral spirits on the rags, then wipe down the boards?
You wet the rags down with water after you are done with the mineral spirits.
I got 5 gal twp100. Definitely enough to do one coat but not sure enough for wet on wet second coat, not new wood, but all sanded with 80 grit.
Can I apply a second coat on horizontals after it has dried? If so, how long between coats?
No, it should be applied wet on wet, not wet on dry.
I’m applying TWP 100 wet on wet on a fence, do I need to back wipe with a roller or rag between coats or after the second coat, or after both the first and the second?
Back brush andy drips or runs as needed with a brush or stain bad.
Hello, I applied a second coat of TWP 100 clear to some Douglass Fir porch boards, as well as some cedar steps, but I did so a full 24 hours after the first coat (I obv. missed the wet on wet instructions!).
It looks pretty good, but, its definitely taking longer to dry (some spots are a bit sticky still). I am not too concerned about a few shiny spots here and there, but is there any issue with having done it this way other than appearance?
Thanks,
Scott
As long as it fully cures/dries, it should be fine.
The directions say to apply a second coat within 10-60 minutes after the first. Can it be longer than an hour? I have a big deck.
No, it should not be longer than 60 minutes.
I applied wet on wet stain two years ago on a dock that receives a lot of sun, can I apply a light “maintenance” coat either this or next year and maybe keep doing that every three years or so? I’d rather not have to do the cleaner/brightner process every time i need to reapply stain as it’s a rather large dock. The dock is pressure treated and I used 1500 Honeytone.
You always have to prep when recoating, there is no way around this.
https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
ok…..on average, how long before I need to recoat, just a typical range – every 4-5 years? more, less? the dock is in NH and it sees a lot of sun as well as typical new england weather.
Every 2-3 years is normal.
just circling back to prep – I did use the cleaner/brightener prior to applying the stain to the new PT decking (after sitting for a year). when it comes time to reapply stain in a couple years, if I’ve cleaned the deck with a pressure washer (it stays fairly clean as it’s out in the open), what is the purpose of the cleaner/brightener? is it removing the previous stain on the surface or is removing the faded color of the old stain? what would be the downside to not doing the prep? because of the location, I have to pump water from the lake to hose off the product, so would love to be able to skip that step if possible
You need the cleaner and the brightener to give the prep an even porosity and prep appearance prior to restaining. Pressure washing alone with water only can also damage the wood. Using the prep kit will minimize this as you will use much less pressure.
You have to prep. Never recoat without prep as it can result in over-application, stickiness, etc.
what is the coverage for a gallon
150-250 sq feet per gallon.
I have read that your pro semi-solid stain can be used on an old Timber Tech decking. IS this correct?
Thank you
Correct.
I stained new white cedar shingles with Honey Tone maybe 10-11 years ago. I also used Cedar Shield on top of that. Most of the shingles are STILL Honey Tone but greying is gaining. One neighbor asked how did I get the stain to last so long? I don’t know if the Cedar Shield was the special ingredient on top your fine product or what. I’d like remove the grey. What prep do you recommend? If I were to pressure wash, how long before I can stain?
The Cedar Shield would have not bearing or help at all with the TWP. For prep, use the Gemini Restore Kit while pressure washing and then recoat:
https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Which of your stains is lighter in color than the natural….we applied the natural a few years ago and it was a bit darker than we would like??
Honeytone is the lightest tint.
We have deck that was built around 11 months ago, and hasn’t had any stain or sealer applied. Since it has been exposed to the weather and whatnot for almost a year can the “wet to wet” process be performed? Or should only 1 coat be applied since it’s still considered new wood? Thank you!
Just one coat.
If I want to use a semi-solid to have the stain last longer what would be the steps I would have to take to recoat when the time comes?? thx
Just use the Gemini Kit for cleaning and recoating.
What happens if u put second coat after the first dries!
You could have issues with over application creating shiny spots and or drying issues. Test spot first if you do this to see how it dries.
Hi. My pine deck is 4 yrs old and I’m ready to prep and stain the deck boards again. Have aluminum railing. This will be the 3rd time using TWP 120 Pecan on the deck. Love it. In your opinion, would one coat be enough or should I go wet on wet? Last prep and stain was 2 yrs ago. Thanks
Hard to say until the prep is done. If you still have a base, then 1 coat. If bare wood, then 2 coats.
Hi, applied the 100 stain today. It is in the mid 80’s and sunny (supposed to be that way for the next couple of days). How long until you can move chairs and walk back on it? The video said 24 hours. Thank you, Chris MN
24-48 hours is normal.
Another photo
I have finished grinding off several coats of solid stain from my 600sf treated pine deck. Wood is 20 years old. After grinding the surface is down to original wood but there is inconsistency in the finish. Do I need to use brightener before stain or can I go ahead stain? What would the brightener do to the wood’s porosity? I have purchased 10 gal of Series 100 and plan to do a second wet coat. Any thoughts?
Add some pictures here in the comments.
Picture attached
It looks like you still have some stain deep in the wood. Probably best to go over it with the stripper and the brighener kit. This will open up the pores as well as it looks too smooth to stain now.
https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
I am restoring the cedar siding on this 30 year old house. I have been using the TWP Safe Strip as that is what my local dealer carries and then neutralizing with the brightener. Is the brightener compatible with the Safe Strip? Also I have been using a stainless steel wire brush to help remove some of the wood fuzzies left behind after power washing and coarse bronze wool under the eaves both seem to work well and not flatten or smooth the grain while reducing the fuzzed up wood fibers. Am I ok to stain after using the wire brush or do I have to use the brightener again? I hate to rewet everything after it has nicely dried out.
You should not use steel wool or wire brushes on wood. It will leave metal in the wood that will rust and turn black once rain gets on it.
Brightener will remove the black rust spots.
That is why I am using stainless steel and bronze, they shouldn’t rust. Is the TWP Safe-Strip compatible with the R-A-D Brightener? And do I need to reuse the brightener after a light brushing in some areas? Thanks!
Yes, they are compatible. Brightener after should not be needed.
Thank you!
No questions here! Just wanted to say I did my covered porch and it looks great! Gemini cleaning ( which if you’re not wet in the process you didn’t do it right!) . I even cleaned the beams in the porch ceiling. Let it dry, stained the upper parts, which was challenging. It dried, looks great. Then it rained so kept the floor covered to keep it clean. I finally finished the floor yesterday and I am so pleased with the finished appearance. TWP worked well..no wet spots, no uneven places. Just a great looking porch. Thanks to you all for your help and a great product.
I am in process of finishing my application of TWP100. I have a few places on the floor where the 2nd coat did not completely absorb and has left a few places that are shiny and tacky. It’s been a couple days now. What is the best way to wipe that excess material away without hurting what has absorbed in? I was told by a local contractor that a little paint thinner on a rag to wipe it down would work fine. I’d rather here from you before I try that.
Yes, that works. Make sure to take your oil rags when done and saturate them in water. Lay flat outside to dry.
We applied two coats to the deck floor 12 hrs ago. I checked to see if it was dry enough to walk on, it feels oily. Is this normal? How long does it take to be able to walk on it?
Probably over applied. Give it another day or two to cure and dry.
Thank you for your help.
After staining my deck with Rustic today, I noticed there were much darker uneven spots of red under the rails. I tried wiping it up but it didn’t work. Is there anything I can do to dull the red areas?
No, not once it has dried. It is not possible to spot fix.
Would it be possible to wipe down with mineral spirits or to sand it off? I thought I read this in one of your articles. If it is possible to use one of these options, would I need to restain or just leave as is?
I will not fix the uneven application by spot sanding. Mineral spirits and rags would help to remove shiny spots but will not remove darker red spots.
After prep you can. Use the Stripper/Brightener Kit.
Are these 2 formulas so different that stripper must be utilized? Thought possibly could just use Cleaner/Brightener Kit.
It is about penetration into the wood grain and since stripping is as easy or easier then cleaning, it is best to remove the current Series if switching to the Semi-Solid.
Much clearer now! Thanks for all you do answering our various & many questions.
Love this product!! Wife wants a different and lighter color after I just finished!! (Applied the Rustic TWP100)
Hopefully it will lighten up with the sun. However, IF I wanted to remove and re-apply a different lighter color. Is this possible??
Seriously love this product. This is our second round with TWP. Should have stayed with original color instead of choosing a darker color with out approval!!
Yes, you can remove it with this if needed: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
I applied TWP Cedartone 101 on a new Cumaru-wood deck. Looks great but it scratches easily. All chairs leave scratches after every use. What did I do wrong?
Did you weather the new wood and prep it? Only one coat as well for hardwood decking.
https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I applied 1 coat of the TWP 100 series stain but did not have enough to apply a second coat. How long should I wait to re-apply a second coat? Or how do you determine if a second coat is needed?
If it looks good, then just leave as is. You can always lightly clean and add another coat in 12-24 months or as needed.
What do you mean by “lightly clean”. in 12-24 months will the wood accept the stain with only a light cleaning.
Use the Gemini Deck Kit and then light pressure wash whenever you recoat:
https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
What to do when replacing one rotten board on an old deck? Will the stain color be different if it is a new board? Should I try to find an old board, or try to cut out the rotten part?
New wood will stain lighter in color. There is not a way to match new wood to old wood.
What tools do I need to apply TWP Cedartone 101-5 by hand? Paint brush, roller, long handled deck stain applicator? I have a large deck. What will help me get it done the fastest without spraying?
Stain pads and brushes. We are not fans of rollers: https://www.twpstain.com/wood-and-deck-stains/application-tools/brushes-stain-pads
I am removing solid stain from a 20 year old pressure treated deck so I can apply your 100 product. Strippers have little effect on removal process so I am using Wagner Paint Eater to grind off (big job on a 900 sf deck). Any other suggestions on removal? Also, once down to original wood do I need the brightener step before applying your 100 product?
The only effective way to remove a solid stain is to sand or grind it off. Use the Gemini Kit after for full prep: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
time frame of wet on wet coat? how long to wait to do the wet coat and how long is too long time wise? (besides dry) Big deck want to plan accordingly