Last Updated on January 20, 2022 by TWP Help
We are here to help you with your TWP exterior deck or wood restoration project for 2022!
TWP is an advanced wood preservative/protectant registered by the EPA. Performance and longevity can vary though depending on the wood type, how the wood is prepped, the age of wood, and how the TWP is applied. We want everyone who has decided to use TWP 100, 1500, or 200 Series to have the best possible results.
When asking questions please give us some information about your wood restoration project:
- What structure is your wood? Examples would be: Deck, Wood Siding, Fence, etc
- What species is the wood? Examples: Treated Pine, Cedar, Redwood, Ipe, etc
- Is the wood new or older than 1 year?
- Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Please specify brand name and type of stain used: Examples: Solid stain, Semi-Transparent Stain, etc.
- Any additional info that would be useful
Once you supply us with the information, we will able to give you advice as to how to prep your wood and any needed instructions for the TWP application.
Please ask your questions in the comment area.
Thanks
I just want to check again with you this is a better picture it doesn’t look like all the stain is removed to me? Do you still think brightener only?
It looks like you have a little bit of stain to remove but most of the darkening is because you have not brightened yet.
Carpenter bees are eating me up and I need to match your dark walnut stain with the correct paint color as the wood dough will not stain, any help?
There is not a paint color we know of that will match the Black Walnut especially since the Black Walnut can have a large variance in the final color do the wood type, age of the wood, and prep.
I used a RAD yesterday to strip and Brighton my deck here in California to remove TWP Honeytone and I see lots of dark spots! Do I need to strip in Brighton a second time?
Brighten again.
Is it normal that the wood turns black when you put the brightner on it? It’s just looks to me like all the stain has not been removed?
Yes, the stripper raises the internal pH of the wood, darkening it. The Brightener restores the pH of the wood, lightening it.
I have used TWP the last 2 of 3 years. I skipped last year. I have white cedar.
I was planning on cleaning and then simply re-applying.
Should that be OK? Photos attached.
Use the Gemini Restore Kit while pressure washing: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
I have a new deck that I have let cure for 18 months. Used the cleaner and brightener today and followed the directions exactly. Now my wood looks white and ashy. I even went over it twice with the power washer after it dried….still ashy white
Sound like you did not remove all the oxidation
Make sure to pressure wash while using the cleaner.
I actually power washed twice using the cleaner because of the oxidation.
Its still there.
Post a picture and if looks okay while wet, then it is good to stain.
It looked good wet after the brightener and while wet, however I did stain it and now it looks like the furries did not come off. It actually looks like I put sand on it. I can post a picture later. I’ll post one wet and dry
One more question from Kirk in KCMO:
Apply 100 or 1500?
1500
Hello From Kansas City Missouri,
We moved into a home with a deck that has the following on it (see pics). What would you recommend to remove existing? A chemical or sand it off. I believe this is treated wood.
Thank you,
Kirk
Use the Restore A Deck stripper and Brightener kit with both additives to remove the old stain.
Hello, I purchased a 5 gallon bucket of the TWP 200 clear sealant and it was dented pretty bad and the label was faded. The PPG store said it would be fine and gave me a discount. When I opened the can a day later I noticed a 1/4 layer of thick white stuff on the bottom that won’t mix in well. Is this standard or normal?
Probably has gone bad due to being old. Return it.
I am refinishing a completely solid oak door. I have stripped the old stain off one side and sanded. The interior will be painted but the exterior i would like to stain. I am in northern NJ and the door will be southwest facing. There is a covering over the door and does not ofter get wet but does receive quite a bit of sun later in the day. Which of your transparent products would you recommend for the best protection?
FYI, you cannot get a sheen with TWP and you cannot top coat with a shiny coating over another brand.
Well that is a confusing response. Why are you talking about a sheen
Doors for proper protection typically have a shine/varnish on them. TWP will not give you that “shiny” look and therefore is rarely if ever used on a door. TWP is also not suggested for hardwoods like oak.
Oh. Ok. Thank you
will the stripper damage the painted finish on my siding/trim that’s next to the deck should I happen to get some on it while spraying it on the deck?
The stripper does not remove paint but always make sure to prewet and rinse any over psray right away.
Good day I have a composite deck that is at least 13 years old Lost its luster Looking to brighten it up Its a reddish deck composite What can you suggest ?
Can you post a picture?
Here is a picture
Use the TWP SEMI SOLID stain for this. Just one coat.
You recommend a cleaning product and color close to it ?thank you
Can you suggest best way to prep it and a color close to the deck to use? Thank you
Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit. As for the color, hard to say. Maybe Heartwood: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-semi-solid-pro-series
I have a couple pieces of outdoor wood (exterior siding, wood shutters and patio posts) most likely pine (installed by the builder) which was painted with Olympic maximum stain and sealant semi transparent about 5 years ago. The total age of the wood is about 9 years old. I would like to redo them all in the TWP 100 or 1500. What procedure would I need to do fully prepare the wood for treatment. Thank you.
You will have to remove the old stain. Post some pics in the comments for help with this.
Here are some pictures of the wood, two different color stains.
For some reason the images didn’t upload, here they are on imgur
https://imgur.com/a/wkbRabt
Use this kit: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
With both additives: https://www.twpstain.com/wood-stain-strippers/rad-stripper-additives
and pressure washing to remove.
The additives are used with the cleaner? Or would I also need the stain stripper? Would I need to sand at all? Thanks
Sorry, sent the wrong link in the prior reply. You need the stripper kit with the stripper additives: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
No need for the cleaner kit.
What is the difference between RAD Stripper Kit and Gemini Restore-A-Deck Kit?
Gemini Kit is a cleaner and a brightener, not a stripper/brightener.
Hello, Is kitty litter a safe way to dry out the remaining stain (roughly a gallon from a 5 gallon) for safe disposal with regular trash?
It should be as long as it hardens up.
What product do you recommend for log cabins? The wood is stripped and sanded.
Where do you live?
The Cabin is in South Lake Tahoe, CA. The logs are prefab. pine, and the cabin was built in the 50’s. The logs are in fairly good condition.
You will need the TWP 1500 Series: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series
Thank you
Welcome!
I have a 9 y/o cedar deck that I was only able to apply stain to some places because it got too hot, now I’m concerned when I apply the rest there might be lines between the stain marks. Will this happen? How can I apply stain to sections since I am having to stain over an extended period of time?
Historically, I’ve used TWP 1500 every couple years. This year, I switched to the semi-solid so to prep I used RAD to strip the entire thing, brightened, then hand-sanded (took several days and of course the weather delays things with continued off/on rain).
I *finally* started staining early one morning but only got the main posts, partial railings and some floorboards (to blend in drips) before it got too hot and was curing too quickly. Of course a few days later it’s rained so now I have to wait even longer to continue but now I’m worried about having it partially done in some spots–will the stain have demarcations or lines where it was partially stained and then new stain applied?
If you tell me it will and I need to strip it again I may have to just burn the entire thing down! Hahaaa
It is very possible that any overlap lines will not blend. Best to stain all sections fully. Meaning all rails (no dripping on floors) at once and then stain all floors at once. The steps would be last if you have them.
Uuuuuugh. Thanks for the quick response. (lights bonfire)
No lap lines! Blended totally fine wet on dry, even in places that were super bad and had hard edges/lines. I started to use turpentine and sanding on the hard lines but there was no need, the Lighthouse semi-solid went on completely fine, covered even the worst places, didn’t dry shiny or anything. Very happy! No bonfire needed!
While I do prefer the color of my previous 1500 Redwood better because it has a blue/burgundy undertone compared to the brown/orange of Lighthouse, I really love the more opaque look and very forgiving nature (blends better and such) of the semi-solid. Glad you have it as an option now. Hoping you might introduce a more burgundy/maroon red in the future. Thanks!
Post some pics of how it looks here in comments and might want to join the contest. https://www.twpstain.com/twp-2022-contest-win-cash-and-twp-stain
Background: Large, ~20+ year old cedar deck in Pacific Northwest. Prep + treated uncovered portion of the deck in Aug 2019 with gemini cleaner/brightener then stained (via a professional crew) with TWP100 series cedartone 101. Uncovered portion not touched.
This year: I plan on re-staining the previously stained portion with the same TWP100 cedartone 101. Horizontal stain is failing. Vertical doing better. Also, I have 3 new boards (see pic). I also want to remove the very old solid Sherwin Williams deckscapes stain from the covered portion of the deck and apply new cedartone 101 so that the stain matches.
Questions:
Cheers
1. Strip and brighten would be best to ensure an even application for the new stain: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
2. See here about new wood: https://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
3. A solid stain cannot be stripped fully. You can strip off what you can using the RAD Stripper Kit and both additives: https://www.twpstain.com/wood-stain-strippers/rad-stripper-additives
and then sand/grind to remove the rest.
I have aluminum railings + posts. Will the restore-a-deck stripper mentioned above damage the aluminum?
It should not but always test spot first.
I have a 400 sq foot cedar deck stained 2 times with sickens translucent oil based stain since it was built 6 years ago. I am in Quebec. It needs restraining and has some pealing mostly on outer perimeter.
What are your prep. Other than power washing and type and amount of stain.
PS. The present colour is clear oak.
Thanks.
You would have to remove the Sikkens but stripping and or sanding. Brighener after. TWP 200 Series for Canada: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-200-series-5-gallon
I posted a question a few weeks ago about the stain not drying in previous years after staining and the response was to purchase a stripper and brighter product from TWP and use it.
So I purchased the product and clean the deck then stripped it, then used the brighter the hosed it off for almost an hour. I let it dry for two days the stained it with the 1516 stain plus a second coat with 20 minutes of finishing the 1st coat.
After it dried the finish was not even almost spotty. Like some spot the stain was absorbed into the wood other parts not. Have have included some pictures.
Your product has always worked well for me so I can’t understand what the problem is.
Any suggestions?
Thank you
Do you have pictures of after stripping and after staining that you can post?
Here are some
No pics.
I have more pictures if you need
But could only download so much at one time due to size limit
I think it just needs time to cure and even out. The shiny areas should dull down.
Hello, I replaced several 2”x 6” cedar deck boards 30-days ago. How much time should I give new boards to age and dry before applying the TWP semi-solid Cabin Fever stain? If I sand boards would that accelerate aging and drying? Not in any hurry to stain, just want to get it right. Thank you! Austin, TX
4+ months and then prep with the Gemini Restore Kit. There is no way to speed up the process.
Do it in the Fall and you should be okay.
I have two gallons in a five gallon bucket left from a previous job. How long is the twp stain 100 series cedartone good for?? I have kept it in the house. I also have an unopened 5 gallon can, can I use this?
Opened, 6-12 months.
unopened??
2-3 years if unopened but yours will be considered open if you have two gallons left from a 5-gallon pail.
Two summers ago I stripped, brightened and sanded my existing deck and applied TWP 115 Honeytone. I results were outstanding. I wish to restrain this summer. What do I do to prepare it? Clean or brighten? I noticed you no longer offer TWP 115. Should use Honeytone again or something lighter to preserve the color?
Clean and brighten with the Gemini Restore Kit. We still sell the 115. Not sure why you would think otherwise?
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series
Have a couple gallons of 100 series cedar tone left. Can I mix with 1500 series cedar tone?
We do not suggest mixing different series together.
HI, I’ve stained my 1- 2 year old deck and cattle panel fence, both made of pressure treated pine, with a 100 series, 2 parts Dark Oak to 1 part Rustic. As it dries, it’s a gorgeous color that warms my home and adds the last touches to the exterior.
I still have rough hewn posts on my porch to go. I know the rough hewn is going to absorb at much higher rate than the pressure treated. Therefore come in much darker if I don’t adjust. Do you suggest I a)”cut” the 100 series with a solvent b) add a clear tone (what color? what ratio?) c) other suggestions?
Do not thin it with a solvent but you can use the TWP 100 Clear to lighten it. No idea on the ratio, you would have to test it.
TWP 102 Redwood applied to a redwood deck after stripping and brightening in 2020. The results were stunning!! NOW, 2022, Where the chair legs move and the snow is shoveled it is down to exposed redwood again.
Local deck people said NOT to use a brightener, just powerwash and apply a new coat of TWP.
Is the TWP 1500 a better option? Can I put TWP 1500 over this?
You can and brighen for prep, not just brightener. Use the Gemini Restore Kit for this. The 1500 works the same as the 100 Series so no need to switch.
I will be applying TWP 1500 series to a new mostly smooth redwood railing. I was thinking of completing the deck after the wood weathers sufficiently, so as to be able to coat all surfaces of the wood, not just the exposed surfaces (that is, including the surfaces that will be covered by another piece of wood). I thought that would be a good idea, but I have seen hints that maybe it is not to treat all sides of the wood, exposed or not, something relating to “air circulation” or “trapping moisture”. What is the official word on this?
Thanks
Just do the exposed wood after installation. See this about new wood: https://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Any advice for staining around metal spindles?
Apply with a stain pad or brush and wipe the stain off the spindles right away if it gets on them.
I have some TWP 100 series cedar I used two year ago. Half is left in the 5 gallon container. I opened it and it has settled into liquid and solid layers. I started mixing and it seems to be breaking up, but wondered if it will return to its original form with more aggressive mixing>
It has gone bad, do not use it.
Hello from Iowa. I have a 20 year old Cedar deck that I have been using TWP 100 Pro Series on for past 4 years. Is it necessary to use stripper before resealing again? Or is pressure washing adequate to remove dirt?
Use the Gemini Restore Kit while pressure washing for prep when recoating: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Do you think it’s necessary to stain every year w/TWP?
Every 2-3 years is normal for most scenarios.
Hi
I’ve a cedar deck that I used TWP 100 on a few years ago (great product)- now it looks like it needs redone again. How should I prep the deck – is stiff brush clean sufficient before application with TWP 100 again?
Use the Gemini Restore Kit for prep when recoating: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
I would like to use the Safe Strip for the floor and steps. Does this replace using the deck cleaner? Or would I strip, clean and then brighten?
Thank You!
What prep products you should use depends on the condition your wood is in and if stained prior? Post some pics as well in the comments.
Recommended air temps to apply TWP is 60-80 degrees( optimal) , 50-85 degrees okay?
What about applying early in day at these temps but it will be hotter later in day- possibly 95 degrees.
Does optimal temps include drying time after stain has been applied?
50-85 is okay. Hotter or colder later after the application is okay as well.
I have left over TWP Total Wood Preservative Dark Oak that I need more. I do not see it on your website. Is this a semi-transparent or a semi-solid? What is the equivalent for an Ohio application?
You want the TWP 1500 Series in Dark Oak for Ohio: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series
Can I place the semi-solid over the TWP Total Wood Preservative? It must be a semi-solid as the wood has aged considerably. Thank you.
The TWP Semi-Solid is not allowed in Ohio. Dark Oak has never come in a semi-solid color, only semi-transparent.
The UV rays are not providing enough long term coverage to last two years. Will I be able to place a semi-solid over the last semi-transparent coating?
No, you would have to remove the old coating first and you cannot use the TWP semi-solid in Ohio. It is not allowed there.
Hi–the item needing to be stained is a log porch swing. The wood type is non-treated, kiln dried, white cedar. I am looking for an authentic-looking cedar stain. The postage stamp-sized color “swatches” on your web site aren’t that helpful to me. Which oil-based cedar color would provide the most “natural” and warm cedar color?
Colors vary based on wood type and age so best to test some samples: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
A couple more questions:
1). Can we wear those (typically) blue shoe/boot covers to protect the deck and our shoes?
2). I see that your tool for staining between the planks is out of stock. I was wondering if you had other suggestions.
3). Do you have recommendations for the sequencing of doing the crevices and then the planks? Can we do the crevices of three or four planks and then go back to cover the plank surfaces?
Thank you for your help.
1. Sure.
2. We do not and typically you do not have to stain between the boards.
3. Just do the top f the boards, the stain will run down the side of the boards.
Is there anything we should/could do if there an unexpected rain shower within minutes/hours of applying the stain?
Nothing you can do.
I have an old deck that (about 20+ years old). I have used both TWP 1500 and TWP100 in the past, but the wood is getting a lot of cracks in it and looks like it might be better to use TWP200 this year to help restore it. This deck gets a lot of foot traffic from my dogs. There nails do scratch it sometimes. I am located in MI. The deck gets morning/early afternoon sun and then late afternoon/evening shade. I don’t know the wood type, but I suspect 20 years ago it was treated pine. Would a better stain choice be TWP 200 or TWP 100? Since TWP200 is high solids I am afraid that with the foot traffic it might now hold up.
There would be no advantage to using the 200 over the 100 or 1500 Series. Stick with the 100.
Where do I find care and maintenance instructions
Numerous articles on our help site: https://twpstainhelp.com/tips/prepping-for-twp-stains/maintaining-twp/
Where do I find a copy of the Manufacturer Warranty
It is on the Labels and Product Data Sheets: https://r8h8e4x5.stackpathcdn.com/pdf/TWP-100-PRO-SERIES.pdf
Using a semi-solid stain on an old deck that quickly absorbs it. After applying a second coat, wet on wet, how long does it need to dry before it could be rained on without affecting its performance. The deck is on the south side, so receives a lot of sun in the Iowa summers.
8-12 hours.
Live in WV, stained 10 yr old deck in October after stripping, cleaning/brightening then applying one coat of TWP semi-solid. I feel like it needs a second coat, (have extra). Do I need to use the restore kit again to clean/brighten of just wash and stain? Or do I need to wait a year? Thank you.
It looks fine to wait until next year but if you want to do it this year, then use the Gemini Prep first.
How can I remove excess stain that didn’t fully absorb into the wood? There’s a few spots that are sticky with the excess stain but the rest looks great.
https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-is-spotty-or-shiny/
I just received the 3rd 5-gallon pail of TWP 1500 I’ve ordered in the 10+ years I’ve owned a cedar deck. I’ve been stripping and neutralizing every 2-3 years prior to staining and am wondering if I’m overdoing it. If I am restaining the deck with the same TWP1500 stain every 2-3 years do I need to strip the deck as well? Or can the cleaner/brightener be used without stripping? The well-traveled areas of the deck that also get the most direct sunlight tend to look more worn out over time and some discoloration and maybe even flaking of the stain will be evident if I wait 3 years to restain. I guess what I’m asking is when should I just use a cleaner/brightener vs. stripper/brightener? Thank you. Jim
You can strip and brighen or clean and brighten. The only difference is a deeper removal of the current stain. If you have uneven wear, then stripping is better for appearance after.
Stained my deck a month ago with TWP cap cod. I restained it using the cleaner/brightner and it turned out great. Just moved a hot tub off deck, and underneath is non stained wood. How do I get it to blend well with the TWP stian I put on?
You can’t. The wood thre have never been exposed so no matter what, it will stain lighter or different in color since it is less absorbent.
What’s the best process to get it close as possible
You would have to remove all of the stain that you just applied and then power sand the deck evenly at 60-80 grit. Even then, it will not blend perfectly.
What’s the best process to stain the area that was covered?
Clean and brighten, and apply one coat.
I’m a TWP 101 user/believer in Florida with a quarter can left. I have a strip of raw rough cypress I was going to leave underground to shore up the underground end of a mailbox post. If I soak or brush the 101 on the Cypress before I use it and bury it, would it help to preserve the wood strip? Many thanks.
It would not hurt if you did.
Good Morning, I’m looking for an authorized dealer in Elizabethtown Pennsylvania
We sell online only as a TWP Dealer:
http://www.twpstain.com
I purchased a cedar hot tub, 60″ diameter x 48″ height, manufactured by Canadian Hot Tubs. This is a lined hot tub meaning that the cedar wall slats are not exposed on the inside to the hot tub water. I used 1501 Cedertone, two coats, applied with a brush & wiped clean with a cloth, on both the sides & the top slats. My question is about the top slats. The finish was applied in a garage @ 60 degrees. The tub went outside in December (Upstate NY – zip 12804 is the location) Here we are in June, so call it 6 months later. The sides, which are vertical (of course), are doing fine – spectacular even!! The roll-top cedar slats, which are horizontal, are doing much less better meaning that they look like they are already in need of another coat. Question 1 – this seems unusual to me, is it? Question 2 – if I recoat the top slats, should I lightly sand them prior (or?) or simply put more product on them. The slats are mounted on a thick ‘vinyl’ carrier (pics if you would like to see them), which means they do not sit in water, ever, however are continuously exposed to whatever weather is happening.
Thoughts??
Thank you
John
Continual water will cause swelling and premature wear. Might want to just touch up this top rail every year or as needed. A light sand with 60-80 grit should work.
Hi,
I have a new cedar fence that was installed 4 weeks ago. Based on previous posts, I see that you suggest waiting 4 months before applying TWP 1501. I would like to apply your product before the cedar starts to grey. The vertical panels absorb water quickly. Water on the top rail on the fence (there is lattice on the top 15 inches of the fence) beads for about 3 seconds before absorbing.
Can cedar fences be ready for staining before 4 months? I am not sure how long it will take the fence to start turning grey.
Thank you
Bob
Smooth wood or rough-sawn wood?
Smooth wood for the vertical boards. The rail on top is a 2×3 board but I do not know if that is considered rough-sawn.
You cannot stain it if smooth wood. It has to weather and be prepped. The prep will remove any graying if it occurs.
I have a 16 year old deck in Michigan that has never been stained. I like the color choices of the semi solid pro series the best. I’m looking at doing a combination of Earth and Charcoal for Deck and railing combo. Would this be the appropriate product for my area? Also what sets your products apart from something I could get at a big box store? I want to make sure If I am going to invest in the project that it is going to last and hold up to the elements.
Yes, the semi-solid will work well for you in MI. You can read lots of reviews online about the TWP stains and products sold at Home Depot or Lowes. Lots of info out there. TWP is a penetrating stain while many of the products you buy at big box stores are filming acrylic stains that tend to peel, making reapplication difficult.
Is it ok to apply 100 Series stain if rain is expected 14 hours from application? Drying temperature will be in the high 80’s
It should be fine as long as you do not over-apply the TWP.