Official Help Site for TWPStain.com

I have about 2 gallons in a 5 gallon pail in the basement. I used it about 5 years ago and was wondering if its still good. Is there a way to test it before I use it.

I followed instructions on stripping and brightening using Restore-A-Deck but it left some old PPG semi transparent stain behind and some of the wood raised (I had to get aggressive with power washer to get stain off). I am sanding over everything now to remove remaining stain and smoothing raised wood. What steps do I need to do before putting down the first coat of TWP 100? Do I need to mist the wood? Is there a preferred grit I need to use? Any other things that might work differently?

I am requesting a sample of your RAD paint and solid stain remover. The lengthy description below lays out my circumstances behind my request for a sample of your most aggresive solid-stain remover. I am a woodworker with a great appreciation for the beauty of wood and wood grain. After unsuccessfully trying to maintain my pressure-treated deck with semi-transparent and semi-solid stains in earlier years, I reluctantly used a Behr solid stain (paint) on my deck attached to my high-altitude home (7000 feet) in Colorado about 2-3 years ago. I slavishly followed the appication directions for the product. As you might expect the UV from sun is by far and away the most brutal weathering agent on our deck. And our main deck has a west exposure that soaks up afternoon sunlight. After vigorous preparation, including renting and using a heavy-duty floor sander, as well as replacing some of the more weathered boards, I applied Behr’s solid stain and have had catatstrophic results. Despite following all instructions on the solid stain, within 6 months I was getting widespread peeling on at least 40 percent of the deck. It is much worse today. Even on the completely shaded eastern exposure of a smaller deck, under a roof that blocks all direct sunlight, I am getting significant peeling of the stain on at least 20 percent of the deck after 2-3 years. Obviously I need to start over and attempt to remove the entirety of the existing solid stain before I attempt anything else. Please send me a sample so that I might see if it is worthwhile for me to pay at least $270 for a five-gallon container (or more–I haven’t estimated the surface area of the decks and railings yet) of your product. Thank you.

Looking to stain fence, treated pine, it is about 1 year old and has no stain on it.

I live in Minnesota and have a 20 year old douglas fir porch in good condition. I sanded and applied a TWP product 3 +/- years ago but I do not remember which series (100 or 1500) I used. I need to reapply….what series is best for the floor boards?

Thanks,
Jeff

I’ve been using twp on a deck for 9 years.
2.5 years ago I sanded to bare boards, and applied twp100. Can I apply twp semi solid as a maintenance coat, or do I have to stick with twp 100?

We bought an applied TWP 203-5 sealant 5 years ago and it has been amazing but time to recoat. The color was 203 Gold but we don’t seem to be able to find that color now for reorder- has the color name changed?

Cleaned and brightened my deck a week ago and was not able to stain due to rain. Now the deck is starting to yellow. Should I do another round of brightener or go ahead and stain. Still have to sand some of the spots where the pressure washer slightly damaged the wood.

I’ve completed staining my wood log siding on my house and now ready to caulk everything. Any tips or guidance on selecting the right color matching caulk. Is there a way to select the caulk color to go with the stain used?

Last Wed. I stained our deck with twp 1500. We applied our first coat to new pressure treated wood that seasoned for over a year on this new deck 14 months ago, same stain. Followed all the directions, cleaned & brightend with RAD products, rinsed for an hour after brightening, waited for a week, applied stain under perfect conditions and wiped off any excess promptly. Cured in dry warm weather for 4 days, then we got our first rain, and now I am noticing an oily slick on certain areas, see the photos. The deck is not tacky and it appears to dry without leaving a residue, but don’t want to track it in the house or have the dog walk through it. What is going on, and will it resolve on its own or should I do something? Thanks

I will wait until the fall to stain a newly-purchased-pressure-treated-Lowes-pine pergola with TWP SemiSolid stain as per your recommendation in the how-to. I have three samples coming to test on cut-offs now. What difference in color can I expect between the sample stained new wood, and the same wood stained after drying for 3 to 4 months in the full Texas sun?

Have cedar deck and hasn’t been stained in 5 yrs and live in Missouri.

1. Do I purchase Gemini cleaner/brightner?
2. Do I powerwash first, then come back and powerwash with cleaner?
3. How long do I wait for it to Dry before staining?
4. What series do I use?
5. 2 Coats?
6. What is best application to use for stain? Sprayer, roller, paint brush?
7. Some areas need sanding. Do I sand after cleaner?
8. What grit do I use?

I have three cedar garage doors, 9 years old. They face south, so they get some sun, particularly in the winter. They were originally treated with Australian Timber Oil, but that finish turned dark after a few years. They were stripped and brightened with your products. All the original oil came off, but they were a little rough so they were thoroughly sanded. Then they were treated with your 100 Honeytone product. The finish darked after two years, so they were stripped, brightened, and treated again with your 1500 product. It’s now two years later, and they are darkening again.

See the attached photo. The doors in the center and on the right were treated 2 years ago. The door on the right is usually up, so it doesn’t see much sun, and it still looks good. But the center one has darkened considerably. The one on the left was just stripped, brightened, and treated again.

What’s causing the darkening, and how can I slow/stop it? Striping/brightening/treating every two years seems too frequent.

Preped and stained a cedar deck with series200 California cedar last fall but could not apply a second coat because of bad weather. Can I power wash and stain this year with 1or 2 coats of your series 100 (more resistant?). And what Color comes closest to the California cedar?

I’m looking to strip the stain off of my log house. What would you guys recommend?

I have new cedar clapboard siding on a residential Mansard roof (6 months old), in southern California (Los Angeles area) and am planning to use TWP 1500 semi-transparent stain. However the siding was placed with regular iron nails. Will there be a problem with tannin or rust bleed with the TWP 1500 product?

What happens if it rains with 24-48 of appication of TWP. Will I have to reapply?

My painter put too much 1500 series and now its 4 days old and still pooling. We tried to wipe up what we could but its a sticky mess. What do we need to do? thx

What is the best way to clean drip spots off of concrete and pavers?

I have replaced my PT SYP decking 6 months ago, It has dried and weathered adequately at this point. I want to use your semi-solid stain. Prior articles addressed using TWP 100 or 1500 inre prep. Should I do any special prep other than a light pressure washing to remove any grime? Also, the railing will be replaced with KDAT lumber to guarantee minimum warpage. It is kiln-dried already. Any prep? Lastly, the exposed understructure framing was stained with TWP 100 several years back. I want to cover it the semi-solid as well. Any restrictions there?

Hi, I have a deck that has been previously stained with a latex semi-transparent stain. (long story, bad contractor) I’d like to put either TWP 1501 or a similar color 100 semi-solid series over it. I am using 1501 on my cedar siding. A couple of questions:
What prep is needed for the deck?
What is the closest 100 series color to 1501? I looked at Cedar Mulch and Super Cedar but they do not seem very close to 1501.

Thank you!

I stained a 14 year old deck with the semi-solid series. The old wood was sanded and power washed prior to staining. There were a few new pieces of wood as well. I noticed after stain dried that the deck railing was darker than the deck floor. It’s too late to apply a second coat wet-on-wet. Can I now apply a second coat on the deck flooring?

I originally applied TWP 100 stain first time to a new wood deck 4 years ago and have applied 3 maintenance coats over the same period. At what point is it recommended to stop with the maintenance coats and strip the old stain and start over? Also, should I strip the old stain first and the clean and brighten before apply the new stain. I will be sticking with the same 100 stain color as the original coat if that makes a difference.

Thanks for answering.

We bought the 5 gal semi transparent stain. We want to apply with a sprayer, but there is no pour spout on the lid. Do you have recommendations on getting it from the 5 gal pail to the sprayer?