Prepping New Wood For TWP Stains

by TWP Help

Last Updated on January 20, 2022 by TWP Help

TWP Stain Tips for New wood Decks in 2022

When applying TWP Wood Stains for the first time to new wood there will need to be proper steps taken. New smooth wood or decking is not ready to be pre-stained prior to installation or stained right after installation. It is best to follow the directions of the TWP Wood Stain when it comes to applying a coating to new wood for the first time, not the lumber yard or the paint store’s as they do not understand the proper prep needed.

TWP and New Smooth Decking or Exterior Wood

It is important to understand that new smooth wood is not absorbent enough for the TWP Stains. New wood contains a higher moisture content and a “mill glaze”. Mill Glaze is a waxy film that results from the fast turning blades that cut the profile on a manufactured log. The high speed of the turning blades produces heat that draws sap and moisture out of the log. As it cools and dries, it creates a film or coating on the logs. This will hinder the TWP’s ability to penetrate into the wood grain.

Note: New Rough Sawn vertical wood/fencing can be stained right away with no wait and with no prep as it does not have mill glaze and is very absorbent. Just make sure the wood is fully dry. If Rough sawn wood has aged or oxidized (grayed) then it will need to be prepped with Gemini Restore Kit. One coat for most instances of newly installed Rough Sawn wood.

Let the Wood Weather First

TWP wants the wood to weather and dry out for 4-12 months after installation. This will allow the moisture content to drop and the exposed wood cells will oxidize from the sun’s UV, turning slightly gray.

Prepping New Wood for TWP Stains

After letting the wood weather it is time to prep the wood. This step consists of using the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit. This kit contains both a Step 1 Wood Deck Cleaner and a Step 2 Wood Deck Brightener. The Step 1 cleaner will help remove the dirt, graying, and mill glaze from the wood while Step 2 Brightener will neutralize the cleaner and help restore the natural color.

Staining New Wood and Decking for the First Time

Even after the waiting period and the proper prepping, new smooth wood is still not as absorbent as it will be in a few years. We strongly suggest only applying 1 coat of the TWP Stains the first time. Do not over apply as the TWP may not penetrate into the wood correctly. Make sure to back wipe any excess stain that does not penetrate properly into the wood after 30 minutes. For new smooth wood, the TWP 100 Series if allowed in your state, otherwise use the TWP 1500 Series.

Maintaining TWP Stains

Apply a light maintenance coat to the flooring in 9-24 months. If just slightly dirty prep with soapy water to remove grime and reapply one light coat. If you wait 18-24 months make sure to prep again with the Gemini Restore A Deck. After the first year or two, your wood will be able to absorb more TWP stain which results in a longer stain life and protection!

Tip:

TWP is a penetrating wood preservative. It performs properly when it penetrates 100% into the wood. Over applying will not result in longer protection.

Have a Question? Please Ask Below.

 

Related TWP Stain Help Tips

 
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Karen & Paul
8 days ago

Pressure treated deck finished in Sept, cured 8mo in east TX full sun east side house to Jun. Husband applied cleaner with broom (no sprayer available), rinsed with old power washer (low water pressure here, so he said was below recommended amount), applied brightener and rinsed. When it dried there were white areas on the deck and the wood has 3 dimensional fuzz so it looked & felt rough. He rinsed the whole thing again, but there is still white residue when dry…and the rough fuzz remains.

He stained the sides and one bench top (wet-on-wet 2 coats) before stopping due to the humid heat.

When dry, it looks terrible, as it is uneven where the white splotches were, but even worse is the rough fuzzy wood did not settle down to a smooth surface. We used these same Gemini cleaner & brighteners several times on our wood deck at our previous house and never any issues at all, so he knows how to apply it…only difference was it was new wood and he applied (as directions said was OK) with a broom instead of spraying.

We’d never enjoy the deck floor feeling that rough fuzz, so he agreed to sand it down and start over. He used 80grit got it better, but it still is slightly rough where the fuzz was, so it isn’t smooth as before, or as I’d like to feel. He insists he could just rinse it and finish staining. I say the instructions require re-cleaning (to open the wood pore from sanding) and re-brightening (to stop the chemical reaction of the cleaner).

1) After all this work, is there anything else to do in order to make the stain soak in well? We are using the 100 Series – Honey tone.
2) One coat or 2, wet-on-wet? (The bench top seems to absorb it well)
3) The resistance to re-cleaning/re-brightening isn’t the work, it’s the belief it created the fuzzing and white splotches. How do we keep that from reoccurring?

We’d appreciate your assistance and direction.

Karen & Paul
8 days ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Please clarify a bit, on oxidation/graying removal. The 8mo sun dried, pressure-treated wood still looked new with no graying, so are your referring to the bit of yellow-orange color that came off during the power-wash rinse as the cause for raising the rough “fuzz” of the wood?

My husband has a recollection that a 2nd coat might be applied 1-2 month later that would soak in OK and make it last longer. Is that correct?

P.S. Thanks for your quick reply!

Catherine
20 days ago

After Cleaner and Brightener were used, I applied wet on wet, 3 different sample stains (Rustic, Cal Redwood, Pecan) onto never stained Pressure Treated Pine deck installed 1 year ago – but, all 3 stains looked blotchy. I think that’s because I’m trying to turn PT pine into something it’s not. Could the answer be to use a Semi-Solid stain? Would that be less blotchy over PT pine and have a smoother look? Is there a Semi-Solid photo album showing before and after shots?

Fran
20 days ago

We replaced some rotten boards on existing clear cedar deck. Cleaned, sanded, waiting for a few months for new boards to cure. My question is which stain would look like cedar does when wet? I got samples of Clear, pecan, natural in 1500 series. I live in Portland, or

 
Gary Gamberdine
22 days ago

Where to purchase twp stain 1500 near Nashville TN

Sammy M
1 month ago

I have a new fence installed about 5 weeks ago. The fence has vertical redwood boards in the lower 5 feet section and open lattice in the upper 2 feet. I am in California Bay area. Few questions:

  1. Is TWP 1500 the best choice for this fence?
  2. Is one coat sufficient?
  3. Am I correct that for new fences, I do not need to wait nor prep before painting?
  4. Is spraying appropriate or not?
  5. Some dirt has kicked up onto part of the fence in the bottom. Is the best way to prep the fence for painting pressure washing the dirt off? If so, how long should I wait for it to dry before painting?
Dain A
1 month ago

1000 SqFt Tongue and Groove 1×4 Center Match 3/4” Pine KDAT -Kiln Dried After Treatment @0.80, then dimensionally cut, planed, and t&g’ed.
Replacing existing covered porch decking which has very slight slope so only driven rain. Recommendations ? Should I coat all boards including t&g with 100 PRIOR to installation? Initial coats and timing? Follow on coats/timing?
Thanks

 
john
1 month ago

cleaned and brightened “new” pressured wood { 9 mos aged} but experiencing large white blotches on deck. Presser washed many times and looks good wet. But when it dries, ouch. stained some wood {where the furniture will hide it and looks terrible. I’m thinking I screwed up somewhere, what should I do? Thanks in advance.

john
1 month ago
Reply to  john

please see attatched

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Chris
1 month ago

I need to seal my Cumaru *Brazilian hardwood) deck. It is approximately 20×50 feet. What TWP product do you suggest and how many gallons do you think I will need? Thanks

Ethan
1 month ago

Hello – I’ll be cleaning and brightening about 200′ of picket fence this weekend. Do I need to wait at all between cleaning & brightening, or can I apply the brightener immediately after pressure-washing off the cleaner? The directions seem like immediate is OK, just want to make sure.

 
MAB
1 month ago

I had to install a new cedar deck in two batches. Batch 1 has been up for 5 months (Dec-Apr); Batch 2 has just been installed. Not been sanded / nothing applied to it yet.
Both batches are contiguous so I’d really like the color to come out the same when I stain.
From messages below I understand I should let Batch 2 weather for a few months.
Q: would it make sense to sand the whole thing now and then let it weather over the summer?
Q: thinking of TWP100 Natural but would you recommend something darker to make it more uniform?
Live in Austin, TX

MAB
1 month ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Thanks. So just let Batch 2 bake in the sun for a few months and then prep with cleaner/ brightener the whole thing at once?

Jon Levine
2 months ago

Following from last question: If I need to let the new boards weather before treating, is there any problem with leaving them in a sunny part of the yard — to weather faster — before installing them? How will I know if they’ve weathered enough to absorb the stain?

Jon Levine
2 months ago

I have a 140sf mahogany deck at the main entrance of our house. We sanded/stained it about 3 years ago with TWP 1516 (Rustic), but it was not applied well — parts were tacky for a couple of weeks, etc.–so the shadiest areas still have quite a bit of stain, while the main walkway is back to gray. It gets heavy wear, lots of snow shoveling in Boston area. So I think it’s best to now strip and brighten (or maybe just sand the whole thing) and re-stain. A few questions:

  1. Five out of about 15 boards are rotting at the ends so need to be replaced; I’ve purchased the new mahogany. So do I need to install those, then wait 4+ months for them to weather before any treatment? (It’s very shady so will take longer than I’d like before being able to refinish.) Or can I install, do stripper/brightener on the whole deck, then maybe do only one coat on the new boards (using an edge guard) and two on the old ones? (Or is one coat sufficient even for the older wood?)
  2. Is the 1500 series the best for penetrating mahogany?
  3. I have about 1/2 a gallon left of the 1516 from 3 years ago. Can I mix it with a new gallon and use? (Even if I go with 2 coats, that would give me enough to only need one additional new gallon, yes?)
 
Ben Eby
2 months ago

I have a newer pressure treated new wood deck. It was installed summer 2021 so it has been out for 8-9 months. The deck surface is 5/4 treated pine. One the help page it says to use TWP100 on new smooth wood. Would this still be considered new wood? Basically, should I be using TWP100 this first time or TWP1500?

Ben Eby
2 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Northern MI, about 3.5 north of the Ohio border. So it has had a decent winter worth of snow, plus half a summer of sun,

Mac Webb
2 months ago

I sanded my cedar deck 2 years(2020) ago with 60-80 grit sand paper, used the restore cleaner and brighter products before topping with twp 100 series cedar tone stain. My deck at that was over 10 years old. Obtained beautify results. In September 2021 had storm damage to deck due to fallen tree. Will need to replace 10-15 boards. Should I wait 4, 6, months or more before finishing with cleaner, brightener and top coat finish. Also, I take it, it would be best to refinish the entire deck at that time using the 3 step process.

Katerina
2 months ago

hello, we just got new cider fence installed, about 190 linear feet. Can TWP stain be applied to the fence? I used the TWP stain for the deck and I had great results. However, with the fence, I don’t want to deal with cleaning/ brightening /conditioning. Which product would you recommend for a newly installed fence? The fence is in Colorado, Denver Metro area, humidity here is about 30% or less. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Last edited 2 months ago by Katerina
 
Ashley Randall
3 months ago

I am interested in purchasing product from you to preserve the fence on my property. It is a total of 102 feet of six-foot shadowbox fence with rough sawn lumber (Total square feet = 1224). It was installed in July of last year and has started graying a little. I want to use a color that looks most “natural”–either the Cedar or Honeytone samples on your site look most like want I would prefer.
Please advise.

Kim
4 months ago

How long can I wait to apply twp 1500 series after I clean my new cured pressure treated deck? The weather is changing and won’t be able to apply stain for a week.

GEORGE J KAFFEZAKIS
4 months ago

Good Morning,
II have recently installed cedar shakes to clad a fireplace and built a horizontal-style fence with cedar siding. I want to protect both but do not want to change the color or use a polyurethane sealer. I am thinking of using you series 1500 clear stain. I also noted you have cedartone but worry that it will make it look not natural. What product would you recommend?

 
Jamie
5 months ago

Should I apply just 1 coat of semi solid stain on dried pressure treated pine? This is for a dock in Alabama. Thanks

Lee
5 months ago

Does new wood need to wait 4 months if it has been kiln dried?

Helen
6 months ago

New home, have cypress shutters and a cypress interior ceiling and beam. Does all of this need to be cleaned and/ or left for months before we can stain it?

 
jessica y johnston
7 months ago

Purchased rough cut cedar from Lowes. Have no idea the history of when it was cut. We have planed the wood and noticed some pieces were wet. How long should we wait before using twp stain?

K Bell
7 months ago

We allowed our new pressure treated deck to weather then properly cleaned and brightened then stained (2 coats wet on wet) with TWP 100 Honeytone. That was 16 month ago and now we would like to apply a maintenance coat to the horizontal areas. It is a very large deck and we are in a time crunch due to temperatures and imited days off work. Do we need to use the Gemini restore kit again or can we just gently clean using the pressure washer and mild soap? Also, if you do recommend the restore kit again, it seems like it would be difficult to keep it off the vertical rails which we weren’t planning to reapply stain to at this time. Will the cleaner or brightener fade or discolor the vertical wood if some accidentally gets on it?

K Bell
7 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Should I apply 2 coats wet on wet again?

Stephen Taylor
8 months ago

I know you’ve probably answered this :, if it rains after brightening but before staining (say a day or two after) do you have to rebrighten?

 
Trey Barbieri
8 months ago

New rough sawn 8×8 cedar porch column installed two weeks ago. Got them from a local saw mill, they were cut June 1, and have been setting in my shed unil installed. Which TWP series would you recommend? Any prep needed? Singe coat?

Greg
8 months ago

I have a new deck. We let it weather for approximately 12 months. I applied the first stage of the cleaner and then used a pressure washer to clean. Now, I have fuzzy stuff on the deck. Should I sand it down before using the second step brightener ? If so, what grit and should I do it by hand or use some version of a power tool like an orbital sander?

Matt Stefnik
8 months ago

Hi, I am applying twp 1500 to kiln dried Doug fir car decking to be used as a deck ceiling. The wood is at 12% moisture. I have sanded the surface and now I am applying 2 coats, wet on wet, letting sit overnight and then wiping off any excess. Is this correct? I do not want to add another coat later or redo.
Also I am using Doug fir posts,beams and rafters, much more green and higher moisture content. I will sand all surfaces and would like to coat them before I construct the very large deck that will be exposed to weather, but I also don’t want a product failure.

 
Jerry
8 months ago

New rough sawn pressure treated southern pine fence boards, how long should i let dry prior to stain

Pete
8 months ago

Would like to stain my 3 year old ‘new’ never been colored stained or treated, with the TWP 100 Clear stain. Just want to give the new cedar wood a sealant protective coat. I understand that the clear coat does not give the UV protection that the color stains do.

Being a new, seasoned cedar deck, I also read in your comments that it may only need one coat vs two ‘wet on wet’ coats. Deck is only 10 feet by 14 feet with the usual vertical posts and approx. 3 foot high railings around it – no stairs to it.

Any comments about the use of clear coat TWP 100 vs using a colored cedar stain appreciated.

Live in central midwest.

Kristi B
9 months ago

Waited 4 months to stain my cypress (not pressure treated posts) with Twp transparent stain. They have developed black mold and watermarks from leaving untreated. Will the Gemini restore kit remove this? I can’t use a pressure washer on the back because it’s too close to the house to angle far enough away to not damage wood. Also I have stainable
Wood filler in the nail holes /will that stain Ok ?

Kristi B
9 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Can I use the Gemini kit without using a pressure washer?

 
Boat Dock
9 months ago

Does a new marine grade wood dock need to weather and dry out before applying stain

mike wilhite
9 months ago

I’m renovating my redwood deck. Instead of just using a deck cleaner I’m actually planing down the boards about 1/4″ revealing the wood as looking new. Is this still condidered “new” boards and do I still new them to set for over 4 months before staining? I need to re seal within a few weeks. I can’t wait that long before snow and rain come. Any suggestions? Thanks

mike wilhite
9 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Kind of worthless then. Who wants to wait 6 months, allow the wood to possibly warp just to use your product. So what do you say about allowing rain, snow to set on it?

John
9 months ago

I have untreated cedar porch columns that I want to stain and protect. How should I prep the surface to remove natural dark streaks where the wood has absorbed water?

 
Andrew M
9 months ago

I stained my new deck this Spring (6 months ago) with cedartone 101 and immediately saw white residue at all of the knots. Now its also developing black mold on the surface in some areas. This is disappointing as I was expecting it to look nice for at least a season (I would then reapply a light coat next year as you suggest). I haven’t even put furniture on it yet. What is the white stuff and why is it looking so bad? It was a lot or work to prep and stain 600 sqft!

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Ike
9 months ago

I have a newly built dock on a lake. There’s a 1-month scheduled drawdown so home owners can work on docks and sea walls. Is it okay to use TWP 100 if there’s a 3-week+ drying time before water partially submerges the pilings (I want those to match the rest of the dock)? Or, should I use TWP 100 for above water and 1500 for where it may be submerged?

Raymond Huckleberry
9 months ago

I’m getting ready to purchase and install new cedar shingle siding. I’ve read that I should “dip” the shingles before install. Which TWP product would be best for this, and do you advise it? If so how long should they be dipped for and is one dip sufficient as I see some dip them twice?

Raymond Huckleberry
9 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Thank You!

 
David Carl
9 months ago

1) TWP 100 semi transparent oil based stain can be applied when temperatures are between 50 and 90 degrees, YES?

2) If I am applying here in MI during high humidity (temps in 80s or 90s, do I allow longer drying time for the first coat. First coat has to be “dry to the touch’ for applying second coat?

3) Do not apply stain in direct sunlight?

4) How do I know if my pressured treated pine deck, never stained before, sanded with 60-80 grit paper to remove mill glaze, will “take” a second coat? What do I look for after applying the first coat?

Thank you very much.

David Carl
9 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Thank you.

RE: The “wet on wet” approach:

1) How many minutes after first coat to apply the second coat?
2) Do you determine if it can take a second coat merely by the fact that first coat is dry after so many minutes?
3) If I run out of time and cannot do a second coat, could I wait until 9-12 months to do second coat-and if I do what would be the prep work-cleaner and brightner and then second coat? OR, cleaning with any deck cleaner.
4) Should I forego applying stain if I am not going to get 48 hours of drying time? Could I get by with 24 hours of drying time?
5) What to do if it rains after deck has only dried for 24 hours–will I see water stains? Can I do anything at that point?

6) What is the LOWEST temperature this stain can be applied and have adequate process to dry? I ask because right now in MI our temps are getting down to 50 at night.
7) I notice, too, that at night, the “dew” comes out and water drops are coming down at night on to 7 boards of mine pine-treated deck from the bottom of the gutters that’s part roof overhang. What’s likely to happen if this happens at night to one or two coats of stain trying to dry? What can I do to prevent this?

J. Colligan
9 months ago

My brand new shed is made from kiln-dried white pine. It’s been up a week and rained on four times. I would like to use semi-transparent stain. Should I use the pre-treatment? I live in Ontario, Canada.

David Carl
9 months ago

Hi, I’m going with TWP 100, either the redwood or the rustic color. 342 SF treated pine deck. Never stained. UV damage on some panels. Live in MI. Some mill glaze on some panels already. Confirming process: 1) Gemini cleaner. 2) After drying sand with 80 grit paper to remove current mill glaze fuzzies and any new mill glaze fuzzies that result from cleaner. 3) Apply gemini brighter. 4) Wait 24 hours then apply one coat and then second coat with 60 minutes of first coat. 5) Pray that it doesn’t rain for at least 24 hours. TWO ADDITIONAL QUESTIONS: A-If I will get more mill glaze, will it show up after cleaner and before brigtner or after cleaner? C-Or should I sand BEFORE cleaner and brightner? D-If I cannot get second coat. Do I apply second coat in a year and if so do I have to use gemini cleaner and brightner again to do second coat in a year? Or E_ just lightly clean deck with a regular cleaner and apply second coat? SEE ATTACHED PICS OF CURRENT DECK.

White fuzzies bleaching.jpg
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After Shot deck.jpg
David Carl
9 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Really appreciate the help. If my deck is dry after 48 hours of doing cleaner and brightner but it then rains, do I start the clock of waiting another 48 hours for deck to dry before doing first coat? Also if rain is a certainty after 48 hours drying time from prep, would it help if I laid down plastic over deck to keep it dry during rain, and then assuming no water got on deck with plastic and stain? LASTLY, MINIMUM time stain needs to dry after applying 1st coat and or two coats? THANK YOU.

 
Dan
9 months ago

After applying the TWP 1500 series to Hemlock garage doors, do you recommend a sealer? Or is a sealer not necessary with TWP 1500 series?

Dan
9 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Thanks. I do want to confirm though, a “maintenance” coat is recommended after 9 months or so on new wood. And that can be applied over the existing TWP application.

David Carl
9 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Question about your response-You say use cleaner and brightner for prep to do a second coat in 9-24 months. Won’t the cleaner and brightener REMOVE, or greatly weaken the first coat that was applied 9-24 months previously?

David Carl
9 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Thanks. Really appreciate the help as a big newbie.

Previous TWP advice has recommended I sand off mill glaze/fuzzies already on my never been stained pressure treated pine deck I already have AFTER applying the gemini cleaner and BEFORE applying the gemini brightner.

1) Curious though why not apply cleaner and brightner and then sand?

2) In applying the first coat to my 400 SF deck (that will be sanded with 60 OR 80 grit sandpaper to remove the mill glaze already present on some planks before the cleaner/brigtner applied) do I do 2-4 boards at a time….apply first coat…then if wood has soaked in first coat within 30-60 minutes go back and apply second coat to the 2-4 planks before moving on?

3) Would you advise to just do first coat and wait a year to apply second coat because I did do some sanding on my deck to remove the mill glaze?

David Carl
9 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Thanks. So to confirm:

1) wet deck with power washer
2) apply cleaner
3) rinse with power washer (40 degree arc tip on wand, hold 12 inches away so as to not destroy deck wood?)
4) Let deck dry to the touch
5 Sand with either 60 OR 80 grit paper
6) apply brightner and rinse with power washer
7) Let deck dry 48 hours after applying brightner.
8) Apply two coats
9 Ensure you have no rain for 48 hours after applying either first or second coat?

***If I see it may rain after deck has only been drying for 24 hours do I cover deck in plastic?

David Carl
9 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

OK. So what to do if deck dries for only 24 hours and then it rains?

Sean L
9 months ago

I just finished sanding my railings/posts on my 4 year old deck with 60 grit and looking to get them cleaned, brightened and stained before moving into the floor boards since it is such a large deck. The wood looks near new after sanding. Can I go ahead and clean/brighten/stain when I’m ready or should I let it sit over the winter first?

Last edited 9 months ago by Sean L
Bill Allen
9 months ago

Does this apply to kiln-dried lumber as well? I am replacing steps and handrails (some covered, some not) and all the cedar has been kiln dried.

 
James Geister
10 months ago

We had our deck enlarged, a roof put over 1/2 of it and the rails and all deck boards all replaced in the first week of June this year. The roof over half of the deck solved the gypsy moth caterpillar feces issue this spring and early summer for that half, but the rest of the deck was badly stained by caterpillar feces. Our plan was to try to use Restore-a Deck in early fall to clean the entire deck and get rid of the fecal stains from the uncovered half so that we can stain it before it gets covered with caterpillar feces next spring. However, the deck boards beneath the covered half of our deck still bead up water that’s placed on them very nicely, but the uncovered poop-stained boards don’t bead up water at this time indicating that there’s a difference between them in their readiness for stain. We live in Northern Michigan and if we wait until the weather is good enough to stain next year the new fecal stains will double or triple the stains we have now before we can clean and stain. , making cleaning the deck boards even more difficult. If we clean and stain the boards beneath the roof now, they may not absorb the stain very well leading to a color discrepancy. I have enclosed a photo taken about 3 minutes after pouring some water on a deck board beneath the covered part of out deck. Any advice on the best way to remedy our dilemma would be greatly appreciated.

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James Geister
10 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Thanks for your reply! It’s usually difficult to string together enough dry days in early spring before the the caterpillars become active to be able to get it done. If not we’ll do it July/August after the caterpillars are finished staining the uncovered part of our deck. Will our unopened 5 gallon can of TWP stain still be ok for use next year? It is stored in our always cool basement.

James Geister
10 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Thank You!

Colton
10 months ago

I have a cedar decking that was originally rough cut, then planed smooth. I installed 3 years ago. The following fall I put twp 1500 on it. It did not absorb well as anticipated, but has been 24 months since first stain. I have power washed dirt off, but now what do you recommend for this 2nd time around staining? Prep and stain? Thanks

Ron
10 months ago

I used the last step of prep #2 rinsed and waiting the 48 hrs. We’ve had very light rain the last two nights just enough to get the surface wet. Do I need to restart the 48 hour clock after the little bit of rainfall.

 
TJ C
10 months ago

I am sanding the outdoor sections of my deck to 80 grit and have 1600 square feet of deck including verticals railings and steps. Part of the deck is covered and screened in and does not need sanding. How many gallons of stain do I need and do I apply wet on wet?

William
10 months ago

I am installing 3 cedar posts on my front porch. The posts came from trees felled on the property and were sawn and kiln-tried at a local mill for a month.I would consider them to be rough sawn, but I can see some saw blade marks that I can sand away with a light touch and 80 grit sandpaper. Since these were kiln dried and have been minimally processed, do I still need to let them weather and then restore them? Also, the posts are not clear…there are several knot holes and a few are deep. Do you have a suggesting for filling these before sealing…or how to handle these areas?

Last edited 10 months ago by William
Shelly
10 months ago

Here is a picture of a section where there is new and old siding

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Shelly
10 months ago

Hello,
We had a garage fire last winter. We have new rough (not smooth)cedar siding around the garage area that has been replaced and the rest of the existing cedar siding on the house appears to have a semi solid stain applied from previous owner. We’ve lived here 15 years and have not done anything to the existing cedar siding. Two sides of the house will be stained, to include both new and existing cedar siding. From reading others questions, you recommend sanding to remove older stain but we can’t as the siding is a rough cedar. The restoration contractor pressure washed the existing older siding and wants to apply stain over this as it now sits. Will we have issues with stain penetration? What would you recommend we do?

Shelly
10 months ago
Reply to  TWP Help

Thank you, very much, for your quick response.

Nicholas
10 months ago

Can you apply 1500 series over 100 series? I’m considering staining a new cedar fence with TWP 103, dark oak. If we wind up wanting something darker, next year can I use 1504, dark walnut? Thanks.

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