Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
TWP Stain Tips for New wood Decks in 2023
When applying TWP Wood Stains for the first time to new wood there will need to be proper steps taken. New smooth wood or decking is not ready to be pre-stained prior to installation or stained right after installation. It is best to follow the directions of the TWP Wood Stain when it comes to applying a coating to new wood for the first time, not the lumber yard or the paint store’s as they do not understand the proper prep needed.
TWP and New Smooth Decking or Exterior Wood
It is important to understand that new smooth wood is not absorbent enough for the TWP Stains. New wood contains a higher moisture content and a “mill glaze”. Mill Glaze is a waxy film that results from the fast turning blades that cut the profile on a manufactured log. The high speed of the turning blades produces heat that draws sap and moisture out of the log. As it cools and dries, it creates a film or coating on the logs. This will hinder the TWP’s ability to penetrate into the wood grain.
Note: New Rough Sawn vertical wood/fencing can be stained right away with no wait and with no prep as it does not have mill glaze and is very absorbent. Just make sure the wood is fully dry. If Rough sawn wood has aged or oxidized (grayed) then it will need to be prepped with Gemini Restore Kit. One coat for most instances of newly installed Rough Sawn wood.
Tips for TWP and New Wood
Let the Wood Weather First
TWP wants the wood to weather and dry out for 4-12 months after installation. This will allow the moisture content to drop and the exposed wood cells will oxidize from the sun’s UV, turning slightly gray.
Prepping New Wood for TWP Stains
After letting the wood weather it is time to prep the wood. This step consists of using the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit. This kit contains both a Step 1 Wood Deck Cleaner and a Step 2 Wood Deck Brightener. The Step 1 cleaner will help remove the dirt, graying, and mill glaze from the wood while Step 2 Brightener will neutralize the cleaner and help restore the natural color.
Staining New Wood and Decking for the First Time
Even after the waiting period and the proper prepping, new smooth wood is still not as absorbent as it will be in a few years. We strongly suggest only applying 1 coat of the TWP Stains the first time. Do not over apply as the TWP may not penetrate into the wood correctly. Make sure to back wipe any excess stain that does not penetrate properly into the wood after 30 minutes. For new smooth wood, the TWP 100 Series if allowed in your state, otherwise use the TWP 1500 Series.
Maintaining TWP Stains
Apply a light maintenance coat to the flooring in 9-24 months. If just slightly dirty prep with soapy water to remove grime and reapply one light coat. If you wait 18-24 months make sure to prep again with the Gemini Restore A Deck. After the first year or two, your wood will be able to absorb more TWP stain which results in a longer stain life and protection!
TWP Pro Tip:
TWP is a penetrating wood preservative. It performs properly when it penetrates 100% into the wood. Over applying will not result in longer protection.
Have a Question? Please Ask Below.
I have a 9 month old deck that we are prepping to stain. I followed the instructions on the twp 100 can and cleaned deck with a bleach water solution and then power washed. I’m just finding out about the gemini prep product. Would it be beneficial for me to use that at this point prior to staining ?
Post some pics fo your prep.
Hope these help. Also a bit concerned about the fuzz on the wood.
Hope these pics help. A bit concerned about the fuzz on the wood also.
Yes, you need to remove the gray oxidation so best to redo it with the Gemini Kit.
I put one coat of 103 on my new deck (8 months old) after using the cleaner and brightener. Am I understanding this right that I just need to clean with soapy water and don’t need to use the cleaner and brightener kit this year for the 2nd coat? Also, this deck gets a lot of sun and dry’s out fast, should I put 2 coats on this year?
No, when recoating you need the Gemini Restore Kit. You can put two light coats applied wet on wet.
Please explain it says under “Maintaining TWP Stains”
Maintaining TWP Stains
Apply a light maintenance coat to the flooring in 9-24 months. If just slightly dirty prep with soapy water to remove grime and reapply one light coat.
Use the prep kit for proper results whenever recoating. Thanks
So I planned on staining my 16 month old deck in the next few weeks. I noticed a board or two are warped and need to be replaced. The new boards will be brand new and fully treated. Should I now wait until next year? Stain the others now and not these two? Or go ahead and stain them anyway? Thank you
Do them all at once in the Fall or skip the new boards for now and do them later.
I have a 3 or 4 year old deck (1360sft including railings, stairs, etc.) that has never been stained. 5/4 PT pine, SYP dimensional.
I will be using TWP 1500, after the Gemini kit.
Should I plan on applying one, or two coats?
The coverage for first coat is 6.8-9 Gal (150-200 sft/gal) and the second coat is 4.5-6.8 Gal (200-300 sft/gal) total for minimum coverage is 15.8Gal – Think I can do (3) 5Gal pails?
2 coats applied wet on wet. You would need 13-14 gallons for 1360 sq feet and two coats.
using restore a deck kit..both steps today…floating redwood deck has sleepers attached to bottom and sits on roof..water drains slowly …will either product damage underside of decking or roof material if all is not washed away underneath?
They should not.
Hi….Where I live I would have to use the 1500 series……I built my deck 12 months ago. Should I wait until the fall (18 months) or next summer (24 months)? See pictures
You should do it now. Prep with this:
Wanting to know do you offer small samples of your TWP 1500
Not sure which color to go with abd would like to try a couple different colors.
Installing a new cedar pergola. I’d like to maintain as much of the cedar color as I can without it greying (hence the reason I’m looking into your products.) I’ve read your prep instructions but just want make sure I understand… So I have to weather my cedar (basically allowing it to grey) before applying your product? Located in WI where it will be exposed to all elements.
can twp 100 stain be applied to first generation trek decking?
I have 3 year old rain screen clear cedar on the front of out home that I will be real;ying TWP to this coming weekend, DO I NEED TO SAND FIRST ? either by random orbit or by hand, say 220 or maybe 120 ….or do I just need to clean first then reapply new TWP ? there are some areas that look to be blackened, minimal ….THANK YOU for the education & assist !!!
No, do not sand. Clean and Brighten when reapplying the TWP with the Gemini Restore Kit and pressure washing.
If I have a new cedar fence (weathered) with some saw blade marks that I’d like to address, can I do a rough sanding (50 grit) prior to cleaning/brightening? Or do you not recommend any sanding?
Spot sanding will lead to uneven application so we do not suggest it unless you sand all the wood.
Can I use TWP100 to stain untreated pine for tabletop of outdoor picnic table?
Still need to let untreated pine weather for 4 months before staining?
Yes, you can use it picnic table. Weather and prep.
I am ordering above-ground garden planters made with 100% FSC wood. Can TWP be applied to this wood for stain/preservation?
I have a 2 story covered PT pine deck that was built last spring, the wood itself probably sat on site since the winter, so almost a full year old at least. I was planning on sanding it with either 80 or 100 grit before cleaning and staining it. Should I still plan on just 1 coat for new wood as mentioned above or should I plan on 2 coats due to sanding it before? I would assume the sanding would make it more absorbent unless I sanded it with too fine of a finish like 120-150 grit. Also I’m in Southwest Missouri. I was planning on using the 1500 series but should I go with the 100 instead? I liked the idea of the 1500 series being UV protectant vs the 100 series not being but I believe somewhere on here it recommended the 100 series for new wood.
Do not sand, just clean and brighen the wood. Sanding reduces porosity and makes it less absorbent. Do two light coats applied wet on wet for this one. You can use either Series, they will last the same for this deck in MO.
We have a pressure treated 2 board ranch style fence. It was installed over 5 years ago & we never got around to staining/sealing. See photo attached. It has now been cleaned & prepped but not sure which TWP product. We are in Georgia. Want what will last the longest & provide best protection. Want color to be close to the color of pinestraw in the photo. The guys who maintain our cedar shake roof use 200 on it. How do we decide which to use, 100, 200 or 1500? Thanks!
Look at the Rustic or Pecan color in the 100 Series: https://www.twpstain.com/wood-and-deck-stains/twp-wood-stains/twp-100-series
Sorry if I’m reading the comments correctly but I am staining rough-cut Cypress post they do not need to weather? Is that correct?
As long as they are clean and dry, then no need to prep rough sawn wood.
Do you still recommend only one coat of stain the first time for rough sawn and then a maintenance coat 9 months later?
Just used the cleaner/brightener on new rough sawn pine timbers
Rough-sawn can take 2 coats when new.
I have 3550 new (11-12 mths) and old wood on deck over land and pier/boat house in Louisiana. I plan to use cleaning/brightener kit and TWP 100 series for first cleaning of new and staining. SInce the recommendation is one coat only for the 100 series stain, how much stain do I need? I calculate 4 5 gal Gemini cleaner/brightener. Is honeytone or cedartone your most natural looking 100 series?
One coat is typically for new wood that is less than 12 months. You are borderline going to need two coats.
For 2 coats, about 30 Gallons
For 1 coat, about 20-25 gallons
Honeytone is the lightest tint.
Is TWP an oil base stain?
If so can I get it in a clear?
Yes, it is and it comes in clear.
But if you use clear, it doesn’t uv protect right? And then would need reapplication every year…is that correct?
Correct. For UV protection form graying you need a tinted color.
I am using Cedar Deck Boards from Menards as trim for an outdoor kitchen. I understand that new lumber should be aged before staining, but was wondering if sanding the surface would eliminate the mill glaze issue and allow the stain to penetrate without having to wait. I hate an unfinished project…
Sanding does not allow sufficient prep for new wood.
I want to use the TWP100 in cape cod gray to stain new fir plywood that will be the ceiling inside a pavilion, so not directly exposed to the elements. I don’t know if plywood follows the same manufacturing process as solid sawn wood that requires the wood to open for a few months before staining. Can you advise if it can be stained right away or if it needs to weather first like solid wood?
Also, a separate question: If cedar is stored in an outdoor lumberyard (covered) for several months, does that count as the weathering, or does it need to weather on site?
Is it smooth or rough-cut plywood? Storing in a lumberyard does not count as weathering. Has to be built and fully exposed to weather.
Thanks for the response. It’s rough cut plywood, and so is the cedar framing, so does that mean I can stain right away after prep?
Also, I like a color somewhere between the cedartone and the redwood, like a toned down redwood. Can those two be mixed to a custom color, and do you have any recommendations for that?
Yes, you can stain right away if rough cut. You can mix colors if you like. Also, look at the TWP 1511 California Redwood.
Thanks again. Because it doesn’t need to weather, it looks like I don’t need to use the Restore-A Deck first, unless the wood looks aged.
Because it’s a pavilion with exposed rafters and the plywood above the rafters will be stained a different color, it will be quite a job masking it all every time I re-stain it. That’s why I want to stain it for the first time prior to construction. Because it’s rough sawn, can I follow the 2 coat wet on wet application to get the most mileage out of the initial staining, or should I only use one coat? The guide says “One coat for most instances of newly installed Rough Sawn wood”, so does this fall outside of “most instances” or not? Is there anything that can be done to improve absorption the first time? It looks like the 100 will maybe do a better job at penetrating than the 1500, which is why I was leaning that direction. Is that accurate?
If very absorbent, do the two coats. There is no way to improve absorption. Both Series penetrate well into rough-cut wood.
I have applied one coat to my new deck last year. The deck looks great except a small area that got sprinkler water every three days.
1, How do I determine when to do the second coat?
1, How long do I wait to apply the stain after cleaning the deck with soap and water?
2, when can the deck take rain after staining
3, do I need to sand the small area that got water sprayed on before staining?
1. Do it next Spring.
2. 48 hours.
3. 12 hours.
4. You have to prep all wood with the Gemini Restore kit.
Thanks for your prompt reply! Very helpful.
I live in San Francisco Bay Area. Raining season is Oct to March.
1, Just to confirm, the first coat to the new deck was done in September 2021. Do you advise that I wait till spring 2023?
2, use the Gemini restore kit, no light sanding needed?
3, the area that got water sprayed on is in the attached photo. Should I take care of it this year?
3. No need.
I screwed up and didn’t read this before applying TWP 100 to new deck (kiln dried doug fir.) I could tell right away it didn’t penetrate deeply like it did into older rough sawn wood that we stained. Will this be a problem, or is it more just that it isn’t doing much on top and I will have to reapply sooner (next summer after it weathers over the winter and spring?). Thanks.
You will have to redo it next year. Strip and brighten for prep.
What is the reason for this – will the coat sitting on top prevent the second coat from penetrating? Or is this more for an even appearance. Thanks for your help.
It is because you did not weather and prep correctly. It needs to come off to fix as it did not soak in correctly.
Following that rationale, it means that coat does not allow the wood to weather and the next coat to soak in – is that correct?
Possibly, yes. It depends on how much it wears over the winter. Hard to say. Best to address this in the spring as no harm currently.
I installed a rough sawn pine horizontal slat fence in July. When should I plan to stain it? (I live in south Michigan.)
You can do it now or spring.
I am sanding and staining a smooth STK Western Red Cedar for the soffit of our new home. The soffit will never see sunlight so I do not think it will ever properly weather as described in the instructions. Additionally it would be nice to stain this on the ground, before it gets installed, to make life a lot easier. How would you suggest I apply the stain?
You still need to install, weather, and prep as the article explains. Sanding does not prep new wood and actually can create issues with penetration if sanded too smooth. Apply with brushes or stain pads when ready.
I have a new cedar deck that I’m going to use 1500. Do I need to sand and use wood conditioner before I stain?
You have to wait for 4-12 months and prep as the article above explains.
Just saw an answer to my question about stain color that would keep cedar porch posts looking like new wood and it seems one that light would not give it much protection from graying? Which would you suggest so that I’m not having to redo them real often, but without them being dark? Typically how often must they be redone and is it a matter of completing the whole cleaning and staining process all over? I believe I read that there is no stripping needed if you used your product previously? Can you pressure wash to freshen them up later without having to redo stain or does that take the color/protection off? Thank you!!
For posts, redo every 3-4 years is normal. Clean and brighten for prep when reapplying. Use a tinted TWP color, not clear for UV protection.
I have multiple smooth cedar posts on the front and back porches of my white farm house style home. They were built in March 2022 and we’ve been aging the cedar to be able to use your stain. Which stain and prep should I use and what color if I want it to look like the color they were when they were brand new? I live on the coast in Rockport, TX. Highs are just now under 90! Thanks!
Must be a tinted color for UV protection from graying.
Ready to strip and brighten our deck this weekend. Is it okay to use the same pump sprayer for the stripper+additives, rinse it well, then use it for the brightener? Or should we do the stripper+additives with a car wash brush and then a sprayer just for the brightener? We haven’t bought any application products yet as I wanted to read all of the packaging first and it just arrived today. Thanks for quickly and patiently answering so many questions from so many folks!
Yes, you can use the same sprayer.
Great, thank you!
How do I know which samples are for the TWP1500 Series. I want a semi-solid stain. I see that there are some same number, such as TWP 15?? but then there are samples listed at the bottom that say TWP??? semi-solid. I don’t know what I should be ordering. I would be helpful if there were individual sample lists for the individual products.
The 1500 Series do not come in semi-solid colors. The TWP Semi-Solids is a completely different version than the 100 or 1500 Series.
I just ordered four of the TP100 5 gal and restore-a-deck kits to stain about 3500 sqft of boat dock and pier. Constructed of pressure treated pine about 2 years ago in Houston and never been stained/sealed before, so probably 1 coat on the covered vertical areas and wet-on-wet for the exposed horizontals?
Can you please confirm recommended order and timing? Step 1 restore-a-deck cleaner applied with a pump sprayer, Step 2 restore-a-deck brightener applied with a pump sprayer, Step 3 power wash off the brightener, wait 48 hours before Step 4 staining?
Several mentions of waiting a minimum of 48 hours after rinsing the brightener before staining, but I anticipate 2 people will take an entire weekend to prep 3500 sqft with the restore-a-deck (lots of columns, closet, trim, etc.). Is it OK to wait until the next weekend to stain? What is the maximum time allowed between rinsing the brightener and staining?
Correct on coats for each area.
-Apply cleaner with pump sprayer and pressure wash off after 15 minutes. Do in sections if needed until done.
-Same day as cleaninig, apply brightener with pump sprayer to all wood and pressure rinse after.
-Wait 48 hours to stain. Stain withing 2 weeks of prep.
Thanks for the prompt & informative reply!
I am preparing to replace a small section of cedar shingle roof, the area is high on second floor and will be difficult to access after I am finished (I am renting a lift to do this). I want to pre-stain the shingles with twp-200, yet I read here that is not recommended. What will happen if I pre-stain? Once the shingles are applied to the roof, I will only be able to treat the top, I want to preserve the entire shingle. Can anyone tell me what happens if I pre-stain? I really appreciate it, thank you!
If smooth wood it will not soak in fully and fail prematurely. Also, not need to stain all sides. Just the exposed wood.
It’s not smooth wood, they are #1 perfection blue label western red cedar, they have a rough finish. I’ve tried a few sample shingles and they seem to take the stain just fine. What does premature failure mean will actually happen? The stain can’t peel. Just curious, thank you!
If rough sawn you can stain right away as the article explains.
Okay, thank you!
New PTP deck completed in October 2021. Waited to stain until TWP Semi-Solid was available. Is there anything that I have to do to “prep” the PTP before applying the TWP Semi-Solid stain? The PTP appears to be “well cured”. Also what is the best way/method for application – brush, roller, or ?
Thanks in advance.
Hello, use the Gemini Restore Kit for prep as the article explains. Use brushes or stain pads: https://www.twpstain.com/wood-and-deck-stains/application-tools/brushes-stain-pads
I have a 16 month old PTP deck. I sanded some and then applied the Gemini cleaner. I now have a lot of fuzzy wood, and am not sure of what to do next. Sand more, apply the brightener?
Post some pics.
I have a 16 month old PTP deck. I sanded some and then applied the Gemini cleaner. I now have a lot of fuzzy wood, and am not sure of what to do next. Sand more, apply the brightener?
See here for some tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
What is the shelf life after opening twp100
12 months or so.
Hi. We built our deck with new pressure treated lumbar July 2021, left to weather over winter, then prepped and stained June 2022. There are black areas or mold (?) and the knots are white. It’s only some of the planks. Balusters look great. TWP 1516 Rustic. Looking for advice on how to prep this fall for the winter. Plan is to put a second coat of stain on next summer per the TWP can. Thanks.
Sap leaching around the knots. Not much you can do about that. You can just prep and stain all next summer. It will be fine until then.
Thanks a lot! This website is great and very helpful.
New cedar deck finished Jun ‘19…restore a deck clean and bright + 1st light application of TWP100 Pecan in Jun ‘20…clean and bright cleaning and 2nd light application of TWP Pecan in July ‘20…missed some weather/work opportunities this spring’22 but did get in a light pressure wash in June. I have over a half 5g bucket of stain left over from last year and was wanting to apply it this year with a light soapy water and reapply OR I’ll have to bag it until next year with new product. Is it ever ok to apply maintenance coat without cleaning? I’m guessing no 😊. Here in Coeur d’Alene Idaho.
No, you have to prep before recoating.
Do I need to apply a sealer to a pine fence prior to using TWP cedartone stain? The fence is a year old and never treated.
No, you cannot apply a sealer prior or after the TWP stain.
Ok, thank you. I had read on a site it was recommended to keep the pine from getting blotchy because it is a soft wood. Is there anything I need to do differently when applying TWP or is blotchiness not an issue when you use TWP?
There is nothing you can do as to how the TWP will absorb based on any wood type. It is a penetrating stain so it is normal to have different color variations throughout.
After I have cleaned and brighten, it has rained before I could stain. Do I have to clean and brighten again?
My wife ordered the restore a deck stripper, and thickening gel. We have a 40 year old log cabin and we are restoring it, pressure washing the grey. She is wondering if the product is fine to use on oak logs and if the color will change at all.
2. I’m wondering if I can pressure wash some parts and sand others. I started with pressure washing and it is fuzzing the wood a bit so I thought of switching to sanding. Now I’m waiting for the product to arrive to spray on and then Pressure wash as I imagine it will be easier to wash off old stain and grey once applying the stripping agent. Also the water from washing is soaking our foundation and seeping in through the basement bricks so I didn’t want to keep washing too much. Thanks, newbie here
-You must use the Brightener after the Stripper to neutralize and restore your color.
-If you spot prep it unevenly then your stain will go one unevenly.
We are having a new fence installed (350’ x6’ horizontal planked. We’re planning to let it weather until spring before staining and are planning a two-tone effect on both sides – hoping to use semi-solids for UV and longevity. I’ve read the new fence info page but don’t see any on the semi solids. Are There special considerations we should know about seasonal weathering/ timing and number of coats for best results in Kansas? Attached photo for results desired.
The above info in the article is the same for the semi-solid colors. No difference.
I have a 2 year old untreated glu lam beam framed porch with tongue and groove ceiling. Wood has grayed, cracked and grain lifted heavily. Small black mold spots. I have already started orbital sanding with 60 grit. Did I mess up by doing this? I see that your description says that twp likes old graying wood. I never would have imagined that. Wouldnt grey wood have a different color outcome?
It does not say that TWP likes old graying wood. Proper prep would be to clean and brighten to remove any dirt, mildew, and graying. Finish sanding with 60 grit and then use the Gemini Cleaner and Brighener Kit after: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Ok so mask off painted walls with plastic, pump spray overhead with the Gemini cleaner and brightener, then hose off product well, let dry, sand everything with 60g, then Gemini and rinse again, then let dry thoroughly before twp application right?
Finish sanding first then Gemini Kit. Do not sand after.
Thanks a lot for taking the time to respond to all of us.
I have one more, what’s your best estimate as to gallons qty for the beams? And how many for the tongue and groove? I will do two different colors.
Please send sq footage of each. Coverage is about 150-250 sq feet per gallon.
Does the 4-12 month weathering rule apply to lumber kiln dried after treatment?
I live in Minnesota and would like to get my deck protected for the winter, but I just finished it the end of June this year. Should I just wait until spring?
1-2 months with kiln dried and then prep. One coat of stain.
I just had deck built. Was told to wait 6 months to stain. I live in PNW and in a couple months it will start raining/flooding and not stop for the most part for some time. Because of rain coming I was told by same person who said six months to wait until next year because of upcoming rain and allowing proper weathering time of deck. I’m still at a loss of when to stain
4-12 months of weathering and then prep. You may have to wait until Spring, it will be fine.
We are currently building a new residence in southeast Tx. The house has a wrap around porch with 8 x 8 rough and green cypress post, 4 x 6 rough cut pine ceiling joist and 1 x 12 rough cut pine ceiling boards. The mill recommended the TWP stain but told us they treated their cypress while it was still wet. After reading your info and some of the reviews it seems that we need to let the wood weather first. My wife wants to sand some of the rough surface on the post to take off a little of the roughness. Will that effect the staining process in how the cypress takes the stain?
You should not sand the rough sawn wood, it will take the stain unevenly.
I purchased two samples to test for color. Do you offer a small credit from the sample purchase towards the purchase of a 5 gallon bucket?
See here: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
Do you have instructions for prep and application in Spanish? I want to review with my painting contractor before we start.
We put up horizontal sanded con heart fence about a month ago. Moisture meter is low/unreadable. Can I apply stain or still wait 6(?) Months?
We do not but any of our web pages can be copied and converted to Spanish using google. If the wood is smooth, then you would have to wait and prep.
Which TWP product do you recommend for Black Bamboo fencing?
TWP 300 Series.
Pressure treated deck finished in Sept, cured 8mo in east TX full sun east side house to Jun. Husband applied cleaner with broom (no sprayer available), rinsed with old power washer (low water pressure here, so he said was below recommended amount), applied brightener and rinsed. When it dried there were white areas on the deck and the wood has 3 dimensional fuzz so it looked & felt rough. He rinsed the whole thing again, but there is still white residue when dry…and the rough fuzz remains.
He stained the sides and one bench top (wet-on-wet 2 coats) before stopping due to the humid heat.
When dry, it looks terrible, as it is uneven where the white splotches were, but even worse is the rough fuzzy wood did not settle down to a smooth surface. We used these same Gemini cleaner & brighteners several times on our wood deck at our previous house and never any issues at all, so he knows how to apply it…only difference was it was new wood and he applied (as directions said was OK) with a broom instead of spraying.
We’d never enjoy the deck floor feeling that rough fuzz, so he agreed to sand it down and start over. He used 80grit got it better, but it still is slightly rough where the fuzz was, so it isn’t smooth as before, or as I’d like to feel. He insists he could just rinse it and finish staining. I say the instructions require re-cleaning (to open the wood pore from sanding) and re-brightening (to stop the chemical reaction of the cleaner).
1) After all this work, is there anything else to do in order to make the stain soak in well? We are using the 100 Series – Honey tone.
2) One coat or 2, wet-on-wet? (The bench top seems to absorb it well)
3) The resistance to re-cleaning/re-brightening isn’t the work, it’s the belief it created the fuzzing and white splotches. How do we keep that from reoccurring?
We’d appreciate your assistance and direction.
1. Nothing else is needed.
2. One coat since you sanded.
3. Prepping products do not create fuzzies. Oxidation/graying removal does. The more you are removing of the oxidation, the greater the chance of this occurring.
Please clarify a bit, on oxidation/graying removal. The 8mo sun dried, pressure-treated wood still looked new with no graying, so are your referring to the bit of yellow-orange color that came off during the power-wash rinse as the cause for raising the rough “fuzz” of the wood?
My husband has a recollection that a 2nd coat might be applied 1-2 month later that would soak in OK and make it last longer. Is that correct?
P.S. Thanks for your quick reply!
8 months old wood will oxidize from the UV and that has to come off as well as the mill glaze that is on new wood. If you want to apply a second coat, make sure you do a test spot and make sure it fully cures and dries into the wood grain before coating the entire area.
After Cleaner and Brightener were used, I applied wet on wet, 3 different sample stains (Rustic, Cal Redwood, Pecan) onto never stained Pressure Treated Pine deck installed 1 year ago – but, all 3 stains looked blotchy. I think that’s because I’m trying to turn PT pine into something it’s not. Could the answer be to use a Semi-Solid stain? Would that be less blotchy over PT pine and have a smoother look? Is there a Semi-Solid photo album showing before and after shots?
TWP semi-solid colors will give a more uniform appearance. It does not film on top of the wood so it will not create a smooth appearance or feel to the wood. We do not have a photo album but we do offer samples.
We replaced some rotten boards on existing clear cedar deck. Cleaned, sanded, waiting for a few months for new boards to cure. My question is which stain would look like cedar does when wet? I got samples of Clear, pecan, natural in 1500 series. I live in Portland, or
Honeytone or Natural.
Where to purchase twp stain 1500 near Nashville TN
We sell online as a TWP Dealer here: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series