Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
TWPStainHelp.com Tips: TWP Stain Application is Spotty/Shiny and How to Fix
Staining a deck can be a challenge. There are some common mistakes that can occur that may greatly affect the final results. One such common mistake is over applying the stain.
With TWP Stain it is recommended to apply the stain using a brush, roller, or some type of sprayer. If the wood seems very thirsty, you can apply two “wet on wet” coats. TWP is a penetrating stain so you should never apply more stain than the wood can absorb. Once the stain as had 20-40 minutes or so to penetrate into the wood, you should go back and wipe away or back brush any puddles, drips, or runs.
When excess stain (stain that did not soak in) is left on the surface to dry it becomes shiny. This can give the deck an unsightly spotty or blotchy appearance. If you notice your TWP Stain application is spotty/shiny you should know how to fix it.
Once the surface has dried you can see the extent of the spotty or shiny issue from over-applying. To fix it you can lightly wipe your deck with rags and mineral spirits to remove the excess stain that is on top of the wood.
Note: it is very important to saturate all oily rags with water once done. Lay the rags flat on the ground outside to dry fully.
If you are still having trouble removing the shiny spots, meaning the stain is too thick, you may have to use a stain stripper. You can also try sanding the areas using medium-grit sandpaper. Once the problem areas are cleaned or sanded off, allow the deck to dry before reapplying a light coat of TWP.
Only apply TWP to the areas you cleaned or sanded. Apply as much stain as the wood will absorb but no more. If the stain is not soaking in after 10 minutes wipe the excess away with a clean rag or brush. Try to even out the finish as best as possible without over-applying.
If you have this issue and need help. Please Ask below!
TWP 1500 Black Walnut on Douglas fir that had weathered for a couple months. The man I hired seemed familiar with your product so I assumed he used the correct prep and application process. This was a mistake. The photos show how shiny/glossy it is and still tacky 48-hours after application in 70+ sunny, arid weather. Should I, A) wait longer in hopes that becomes less shiny and less tacky. B) wipe the whole thing with mineral spirits. C) Strip and sand and wait til next spring to try again?
He excessively over-applied and is beyond wiping with mineral spirits to fix. It will eventually cure fully but the shine will remain. Since it is vertical we would suggest just leaving it alone as the option to fix is to heavy strip it off and it will easier to strip later on in a few years than now. BTW, it seems you did not follow directions for new wood and that is why it happened.
Shoot. I really don’t like the shine. A couple years feels so long to wait. Is the anything I can do to address the glossiness sooner? Would your strip/brighten kit help?
You would have to fully remove it and start over. It will not be an easy striper so you will need both additives for the stripper and you may have to do it a few times to get it all off.
I bought a 5 gallon pail of TWP 100, and it looks like I’ll have at least 1/2 left over. What’s the best way to store the product so it won’t skin. Smaller containers, perhaps?
Yes, you can try the small cans but no guarantee it will last. Shelf life is 12 months after being opened.
Can a oil based poly over the top of the stain fix the spots where there was excess stain left over?
You cannot apply a coating or poly over the TWP stains.
A couple of years ago, I over-applied TWP 1500 stain and failed to wipe it off. We had some shiny spots for a while, and now they’ve turned into bare spots (see picture). Would you recommend stripping/brightening, or would cleaning/brightening be sufficient?
Strip and then brighen for prep.
House was striped, brighten, then sanded. The stain was applied by brush and 20 minutes later back brushed again for extra material and to make sure no runs. However the outcome is still splotches. Any recommendation on how to even this out?
Try applying one very light coat to all wood.
My name is Robert and I have a question about the drying of stain. Two days ago, I applied the Twp1500 cedar tone stain on my deck. The stain seems to have dried nicely, but the knots on the wood seem to be still wet and not fully dry even though two days have passed with no rain. I do not know what to do about the knots not being fully dry..what can I do?
Just let it dry out and cure. It will over time.
We have a cedar deck in the Pacific Northwest. There was previously an oil-based semi-solid stain on it. It was last stained 3 years ago.
A week or so ago, we decide to stain the deck again and we first applied Behr wood stain stripper to it, then applied a Storm brightener/naturalizer, and let it sit for a a few days in the sun to dry out (In retrospect, probably not a good idea to use two different company’s products for stripping and brightening.)
Anyway, today a couple of hours after the sun was no longer on the area, we applied a TWP99 semi-solid dark oak stain to part of the deck. Now the stained area now has a very splotchy look. (Please see the attached photo.)
So, as far as the areas we’ve ALREADY stained, any suggestion about what we can do? (I do remember reading that if you apply two coats, the second coat needs to go on 15 or 20 minutes after the first coat.)
THEN as far as the areas we have NOT yet stained, should be apply two coats, one shortly after the other?
Or should we start over and strip those areas before doing anything further?
The last time we stained the deck (3 years ago), we used a different company’s semi-solid stain and I don’t recall having this splotchiness problem at that time. It seemed then like the semi-solid stain covered most imperfections.
Thank you for any information or suggestions you might have!!
It does not look like you fully remove the old stain first? That needs to come off better. Shoot for 95-100% removal. Use the RAD stripper kit with both additives:
Sand as well if needed to get it down to bare wood.
Not sure what you mean about the TWP Semi-Solid in Dark Oak? The semi-solid does not come in a Dark Oak color. Colors are here on this link:
The nearby paint store mixed the semi-solid to match that color. (See the attached labels.) It sounds like I need to completely start over and that I should use the stock semi-solid colors, correct?
I don’t believe they mixed it corectly to truly represent a semi-solid color. It looks closer to a semi-transparent.
You should start over and order one of the stock colors.
Thank you for your answer and candor. I cannot find any dealers in the Portland, Oregon area who carry the stock colors, even with the ‘find a dealer’ feature on your website. Do you have a list of Portland-area dealers who carry the stock colors? I don’t really want to have to order online. Thanks again, you’ve been very helpful.
We are the only ones selling the stock colors and that means you will have to order online.
We completed staining deck and porch yesterday.with TWP 101 cedartone The forecast has rain in store later today so we covered the deck with 7 mil painters plastic in hopes of not getting water spots. Will this be sufficient? The next issue is the porch. Must have over applied as it is still tacky. I have used paper towels to take off some of the additional stain. Will the porch eventually cure or will we have to do it again?
You should not have covered. It needs air to properly cure. Get it off and let it cure if you have not. It will cure over time.
I uncovered it and it was dry (the rain did not get to it). It is no longer tacky so I think we are good to go. Thanks for your help!
What happens when you have shiny spots on the surface? It’s been 24hrs and I noticed some spots still look wet but dry to the touch. I guess it was over applied. What is the detriment?
It will dull over time. You will be fine.
Thank you for your quick response. Love the product.
Those spots are from the rain. It was not fully cured, and the rain separated the oil. Let it dry for a few days and see if it evens out. If not, you will need to clean and recoat.
But it rained 72 hours after the completion of the staining job. This is above your recommended range!?
The 200 series can take up to a week to fully cure ins come conditions.
But it rained 4 days after application! This is way longer than your recommended period!
I do not see that you ordered directly from our website. We are an online dealer for TWP only, we do not make the TWP. Please contact the manufacturer directly for help. Their phone # is on the TWP can or 800-262-5710. Thanks.
Trying again to attach a photo.
I’ve used TWP for years. My deck was getting shiny, and spotty after powerwashing. I have sanded my ENTIRE deck with a 60 grit paper so most of the color is gone. Is there anything else I need to do before applying the TWP 101?
It would be best to wash the entire deck with the Gemini Restore Kit:
Had my deck stained with TWP 1500. On the footers (vertical posts) below the deck they used a roller and didn’t back brush or wipe away excess. I noticed this about 5 hours after they finished so I used a cloth to get any residual stain off. Today (24.hours) I’ve noticed a few of the posts are tacky. They look good. No runs. No puddles. No streaks.
Will this tackiness cause issues in the future? I usually power wash every year and use the Gemini restore kit every 2 years before applying another coat.
It will be fine, no issues as far as performance.
I am talking about my kitchen table top it is stain wood
Sorry but we have no idea why soap would cause a shine to your table. This site is for exterior TWP Stain prep and application only. We do not know or help with general maintenance upkeep for kitchen tables.
I had a hit on my table and I tried to fill it wth patty after I wiped it with a bit of soap it came shinny how can I make it not shinny that spot pls
Sorry but I have no idea what you mean?
I wiped a part of my table with soap and it left a shine on it how do I cover the shine of
I’ve been using TWP 207 Butternut Brown, but see it now only comes in 5 gallon pails? I only need a gallon, so which color in TWP 100 or 1500 matches closest on pressure treated wood? Thank you.
It comes in gallons: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-200-series-5-gallon
It’s been about 12 hours since my contractor applied TWP 100 in cedar tone. Seeing lots of sheen this morning. Do I need to let this cure more or should I intervene?
You can wipe it down now.
Note: it is very important to saturate all oily rags with water once done. Lay the rags flat on the ground outside to dry fully.
We have a new wood deck that we just stained with TWP 100. We wiped away excess after 30 minutes but most of it had soaked in already. The wood looks very blotchy. What happened? The wood was dry when we applied and no rain.
Did you follow the directions for new wood?
I didn’t use the kit you describe but did clean with soap and water and rinsed well. I let it dry for over 2 days. Is there anything I can do now or will it look better when the second coat is applied in a year or so.
Best to just prep and eapply next Spring. It will not take another coat now.
We used TWP stain over the summer to stain our new deck. As you can see, some spots still have a ‘wet’ look to them. It’s been a few months so I’m not sure what our best option is. We live in Southeast Texas so that means lots of humidity. We also have black (moldy??) spots that have showed up over the last week. Did we not use enough stain? Thanks in advance!
You over applied it and possibly did not prep correctly. Not sure if you followed the new wood instructions? https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Best to redo this Spring. Strip and brighten for prep.
I did a test sample on my house with 1500-series pecan and it looked pretty good with a nice warm brown tone. Afterward, my contractors sanded down all of our cedar using 40-grit sandpaper and then applied a sampling of the pecan and it came out very blotchy and red. The outcome was night and day compared to what I originally tested. The first photo is the first test sample I did after cleaning and sanding with 80-grit. The second photo is the test area the contractor did after cleaning and sanding with 40 grit. The third image shows the siding in the process of being sanded. Do you think the 40-grit sanding could have something to do with this? If so, is there a grit that you recommend for clear cedar?
The final color is due to the wood itself, how old it is, and how it is prepped. There is not a way to sand it a certain grit and have it come out a given color.
Our deck is 12 years old. We hired a company to prep and stain it. They power washed it with a cleaner but there was still black moldy areas. We’re replaced some of the boards and all the top hand rails. We bought RAD stripper/brightner and power washed a second time. After it dried they lightly sanded the splinters and applied TWP 1500 in Dark Oak. There is variations in color on the old wood and the new wood has splotches. The old wood was very thirsty and the guys applied many coats. They might have over applied the stain as I suspect. Is there anything we can do to make it better or shall we wait? We appreciate any advice.
Pics. after staining, and few days later after it rained.
Nothing you can do at this point. Clean and apply another coat next year.
Thank you for your response. How do I clean next year?
Pressure wash with the Gemini Restore Kit.
We rec’d our 5 gallon 1500 stain and will be renting a sander to take off the peeling stain on our redwood deck. it’s 3 year old, we live in Denver, CO. My question is: if we sand today (Friday) 88 degrees and sunny and we stain tomorrow (Saturday) same weather; will the deck be okay if we are getting snow (Monday night into Tuesday?) It will be 50-60 on Wed. and Thursday and sunny. We are just getting that one crazy snow day. How long should the stain dry before it gets snow?
24 hours before any rain or snow after applying.
After sanding, I applied TWP 1500 in cedar tone to a portion of my deck. It’s been about 5 days since application, and there are still some shiny parts which have not been absorbed (see photos). The shiny parts are smooth and not tacky.
Do you suggest any remedies for these shiny areas or is it better to just allow time for the deck to weather at this point?
Thanks for your help!
You can lightly wipe your deck with rags and mineral spirits to remove the excess stain that is on top of the wood.
Note: it is very important to saturate all oily rags with water once done. Lay the rags flat on the ground to dry fully.
cloudy finish has appeared on log cabin is it time to do a maintenance coat
I just finished having my deck stained. I did not do it myself but paid a professional. I gave him all the instructions for proper application. He finished on Wednesday afternoon and I didn’t go out to walk on it until today and was disappointed with some of the splotchy boards. It’s not on every board but is on quite a few. Is this from over application? He used a roller to apply. I told him he needed to remove any excess with a brush or rag but he assured me it would soak in. Can this be fixed now with a rag and mineral spirits? I found a section on spotty/shiny boards but wanted to be sure that was the issue here. Please see pictures. Any advice is greatly appreciated. The boards without the splotches are lovely. He only applied one coat. I have a lot left over so I thought I might re-do it next year to get a second coat on. Thank you.
Try to wipe the spots down with mineral spirits and rags to see if that helps.
The attached is the result of a company that cleaned and stained my deck. The deck is three years old. I advised the company of my concern and was advised the result is due to not getting all the old stain off with cleaning and the deck would now need to be sanded. I’ve had many deck cleaning and staining done in the past and have never seen this result. I was never advised either of the risk of cleaning not getting the old stain off. There was a strong rain storm within 2 hours after staining. I asked about that and they were not too concerned, but if need be they would re stain. To me, only re staining at this point, will only make it look worse. Feedback appreciated as to my options and if I should request my money back from this company.
The rain did not harm it but there is some deeper discoloration in the wood. Does not look like an old stain but internal wood discoloration. Not sure if that would be their fault though.
Thank you for your feedback. Would sanding then and re staining turn out better do you think?
Not sure if it will come out, it seems deep in the wood grain.
We hired a company to clean and stain our deck. We’ve had this done before and always use TWP stains, but this result we have never seen before. I’m being told now after complaining to the company, that this is the result of the old stain not coming off with the cleaning and the deck will now need to be sanded. I was never advised risks of not getting all of the old stain off with cleaning. I was told there could be some “blotchy” look but that it would go away. There was a rain storm, heavy rain, within a coujple of hours after staining. I called and they were not too concerned about it and if a concern they would re stain it. But I’m concerned now, only re staining will only make it worse. The attached picture is about one week after staining. Attached is picture of result. Feedback is appreciated.
deck furred and twp taking unevenly. it grabs the stain darker over the furred areas. I tried lightly sanding whit 80 grit and it did not seem to help. should i have the deck sanded. the prep was stripped and brightened with Behr. I may have been too aggressive with the stripping product and the grain suffered
Yes, you would have to remove, sand, brighten, and then restain.
The brightener seemed to raise the grain. You would still have to use it after sanding? Is the Behr cleaner and brightener not a good choice? I would assume that they all do the same
You want to open up the pores so the stain can soak in after sanding. Do not use the Behr.
What product would you recommend to clean/brighten?
How long after staining can you put rugs and tables back on deck? I finished last Sunday with the TWP Pro 100 Series.
You can do it now.
Hello, unfortunately my deck looks shiny after 48 hours of drying . The railing looks great because I used a paint brush. The floor looks shiny even l remove excess and the next day l used a mineral spirit to remove the shiness. I am so confused why the boards did not absorbed the stain and dried shiny. Can l leave like this or the planks will be damaged and prone to mold?
You over applied and or did not prep correctly. It will be fine though so just let it fully cure.
After it fully cures will the shiny spots go away I have the same issue with my tongue & groove ceiling ?
Yes, they should go away.
I applied TWP101 cedartone yesterday. I used wet on wet, spraying it on and brushing it in. I didn’t notice any pooling and it didn’t seem excessive. This morning I rubbed some of the boards and came away with kind of an oily residue. When I wiped it a little with a paper towel there was stain on the towel. It will be a good day of drying today, 90 degrees and windy. Should I try to wipe down the boards which seem a little “oily”. They don’t really seem shiny.
No, just let it dry out today, it should be fine.
We just paid a man $3000 to apply stain to our deck. We had new cedar flooring, rails and stair treads put on last fall. We let it age 7 mos. He came back last week to power wash it and prep it for staining. He said that it was the fault of the wood that it is spotty saying the knots soak it up faster. When we inquired about options for fixing it he said we just had to wait a year and a half for it to wear off. If he applied anymore it would just bubble up and flake off. Then the stairs are very dark and spotty and shiny. It appears very uneven to us. We’re wondering what other options there might be?
He is correct. Knots are a denser and will take the stain lighter there and adding more will not darken them and could lead to over-application issues. The stairs need time to cure and will even out.
So we will have a polka dotted deck til it wears off?? There are no options for fixing this? I’ve never seen this before on any decks I’ve been on. Is it common? Isn’t cedar a common deck material? I am feeling very frustrated.
It also rained really hard the night after he applied the stain. Could this have affected the stain?
Could this result have happened because it rained really hard the night after the stain was applied? If the knots take more stain than surrounding wood, why are they lighter and not darker? I’m having trouble finding any other examples of decks that look like ours.
No, and it is not the stains fault but your wood. It has a lot of knots, more so than normal.
I’m not trying to blame the stain. I’m trying to get help to figure out how to fix it and make it look nicer. Is it possible to power wash and restrain. Do I need to let the Wood age longer. I’d be fine if the knots looked darker not lighter. That is my question.
I am not sure adding another coating will work or not. You can try but it really comes down to the fact that this is the way your wood/knots are accepting the stain. I am thing the grade of the wood is not of the best quality?
Do a test board and see how it looks and dries after a day or two. If better and it dries fine, then lightly recoat all floors.
Applied TWP two days ago. Stain is dry to touch, no spotty/sticky/glossy areas, but when walking on the deck and coming indoors their is a slight oily brown residue on our feet. Does this eventually go away or is there an issue?
It will cure fully, give it some more time.
So I used the restore a deck and brighter. I used one coat TWP dark oak using a brush. This is the result. If I let this go will it be ok. It’s a little tacky. I don’t want to strip this deck again.
It will be fine.
Hi! So I over applied…. Tried wiping w mineral spirits but it kept raining and more kept coming out… Huge mess. I’ve stripped the deck twice and it looks good except several places w larger cracks have oily spots still. Do I need to keep stripping it until it’s gone or move on to the cleaner/brightener?
Also, the wood (cedar) seems so thirsty. It was neglected before I moved in. I applied w a brush. Would a roller put on less stain maybe? I don’t want to screw it up AGAIN
Post a picture of the prep so far. Apply with a stain pad, not a roller.
Ok – pad it is.
Here’s a picture of an oily board. Don’t have a dry picture and probably won’t for a few days but when dry, it isn’t shiny and tacky anymore just darker in the more open grain spots
We would need to see a dry picture.
Ok I’ll get back to you. Thanks for the quick responses!
Okay, here’s the deck dry. The dark spots are where it’s still getting a little oily when wet and actually I can rub off a little excess still in some spots.
Sorry if this is posting several times, I’m having technical difficulties!
Okay, here’s the deck dry. The dark spots are where it’s still getting a little oily when wet and actually I can rub off a little excess still in some spots.
Looks fine for prep. Use a stain pad for applying, only one coat.
Great, thank you!
I applied test patches for a few of the TWP 1500 colors I’m considering to my deck that was sanded, stripped with RAD and pressure-washed off, sanded again (60 or 80 grit), and RAD brightened. The stain didn’t seem to be absorbing well, and the colors look essentially the same. There is more color variation of the same stain on different boards than there is between different colors on the same board. The railing pic from L to R has pecan, cedartone, and natural. The floor pic top board has natural, clear, and pecan. Bottom board has natural, clear, cedartone.
I’m worried that it will end up blotchy since it’s not absorbing well and there is distinct color variation of same stain on different boards. Stripping the old Sherwin Williams oil based Deckscape has been extremely laborious, so I want to get this right the first time and not have to redo. Thanks!
If it is not absorbing well then it is use to the sanding as that reduces stain penetration. Might want to let it sit for a month or two and then do a cleaning and brightening then. This would make the wood more porous.
Deck is about 2 years old. First staining was with honeytone twP 100 last summer. Now looking to apply second stain coat. Should I choose 100 again or go for the 1500 series? any other specific recommendations on prep or stain application?
Prep with this: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Stain with the same 100 Series.
I have some 1500 stain that has been sealed in it’s 1 gallon container for at least 5 years. Is it still good?
See this: https://twpstainhelp.com/shelf-life-of-twp/
I pressure washed, stripped sanded and brightened my deck, then applied TWP 100 Cedar, 2 coats. I’m almost done but (like many on here) I’m worried about the shiny spots. I’m now 20 hours out. I’ve been searching through advice, and on some posts you say to let it dry more, on others you say to strip or wipe the excess with mineral spirits, or even to strip it in a few years and try again. Would you mind posting example pics of each?
We do not have pictures to post of different variations. If after twenty hours you can wipe down any excess that has not dried or is over-applied.
We hired a contractor to restain our 5-year old deck. The contractor recommended using TWP 1500 stain and we chose “rustic” color. I know he power washed our deck 2 days before staining. I’m pretty sure he didn’t do anything else to prep it. The day after it was stained, It was shiny in spots and dull in others and that has not changed after 3 weeks. I contacted him several times in the days following the stain application regarding the look of the deck. He kept telling me it had not completely dried yet. He didn’t seem to know what to do about it, but nearly 3 weeks after staining he came back and tried applying a 2nd coat to the stairs to see what we thought. Now the stairs are completely shiny and a little slippery when wet. I’m attaching pictures which were taken last week after he did the second coat on the stairs. It’s been nearly a month since it was stained. Can you please tell us what needs to be done can be done to get rid of the shiny areas?
Another Question: He also enclosed the area beneath our deck with treated pine wood. He stained that wood with the same stain. It is a totally different look as you can see in the picture of the stair. Is there anything we can do to make that look darker like the deck?
He didn’t prep correctly and over-applied. You will have to strip it all off and start over to fix this. https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
It is not possible to match new wood to older wood as the new wood is much less absorbent and therefore will be lighter in color the first time staining. In a couple of years, it will blend.
Thank you for replying so quickly and giving us a solution. We will have to find someone else to do the work, but we don’t want to rush into it. If we can’t find someone this year, will it be okay to wait till next spring?
Yes, and easier to fix it then as well.
That’s great. But I’m curious – why will it be easier to fix?
Weathering makes it easier to strip.
Is there a clear TWP sealer. After deck treatment a segment that had more exposure to sun looks different (duller) than rest of deck. Can something be done without sanding it all down
You cannot add a clear to enhance the area so it evens out. Post a picture or two.
I had a little dent on my stained table and I fixed it but than I wiped it several times and the spot I was doing came to shine how can I get rid of the shine my table is Matt finish
This website is for help related to TWP exterior wood stains. We are not experts or have any experience with indoor wood table.
I stained the deck 4 years ago. I cleaned and prepped the deck on Tuesday, stained Saturday. I had some shiny spots where the deck doesn’t get a lot of use. I used mineral spirits on them, hoping that works. Do I need do anything to the deck where I used mineral spirits? My problem is that the deck is still tacky. I’m a little over 24 hours out. I’m wondering when it will cure. When can I let my dog into the deck and when am I able to put my deck furniture back on it? I used TWP 100 series in Rustic.
No need to do anything. Just wait until it fully cures and is not sticky before dog/furniture is on the deck. Could be a few days.
Thank you. It is pouring here in Michigan tonight. The deck looks good today. Water is beading up nicely on the deck, except where I used the mineral spirits. Do I need to do anything to it?
No, just leave as is.
Our deck: New wood, #2 cedar, weathered 4 months, no graying…. I saw a Youtube video that refers to a TWP product called Gemini Wood Prep to use on new wood. Is that product still available, or do you just recommend the Gemini Restore-A-Deck cleaner/brightener for all prep situations?
Use the Gemini Restore Kit as it replaced the Wood Prep.
How to remove gloss on new stained doors before varnishing them?
Not sure what you mean? TWP should not be glossy as it is a penetrating stain and TWP should not be top-coated with varnish.
when new doors were stained they appear to be shinny. need to make them appear with a dull finish to add a coat of satin varnish finish. Don’t want a shinny look,the other doors are satin finish not shinny.
I did not know about TWP at the time, so they are stained now and need to get rid of the gloss on the doors.
TWP will not work for the doors nor can TWP be applied with a varnish on top of it. This is a help site for TWP related products, not general staining of doors and varnish.
I have applied the first coat and want to apply a second coat to new 1×12 rough cut siding. I see wet on wet, but what about applying a second coat after the first coat dries???
Not supposed to do this once the first coat has started to cure but it would vary based on if the wood is still porous or not.
I applied 1500 Cedartone wet on wet yesterday to two year old cedar deck after cleaning and brightening. One coat Cedartone last year. The last five boards that were stained 12 hours ago, are much lighter in color. How can I fix this without having to redo the whole deck?
It will most likely not take at this point since it is curing already but you can try. Make sure it is a very light coat.
Thank you. I applied a light coat and it corrected the problem perfectly. The deck looks great. Thank you for your help and for a great product!
Awesome! We would love to see a picture or two.
Here are a couple of pictures. Thanks again!
Your product is amazing!!! We bought a house with nearly-ruined deck. After long search between various products (I was recommended to use a paint, but all of them had not so good opinions) I pressure-washed the deck and used your product. It looks fabulous!!!
I live in Pittsburgh, PA and it rains a lot. We don’t have a full week without rain. My question is if I prep with Gemini
cleaner and brightner I know It has to dry for 48 hours but how long after that do I have before it won’t help the stain?
Also if it rains do I still have to wait 48 hours before I can stain?
Try to stain within 48 hours of the prep. If it rains, you will need to wait 48 hours for the wood to dry.
what happens if it rains next day after I stain
It will be fine.
It’s been 24 hours and the deck is still tacky and sticky. We are sure we put too much stain on. We used twp in years past and this did not happen. What rags can we wipe off excess stain with that won’t leave fabric particles behind? Will wiping the boards off with rags and pure elbow grease (without mineral spirits) work?
It will help. Use old towels or shirts. Note: it is very important to saturate all oil rags with water once done. Lay the rags flat on the ground to dry fully.