Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
Stain All Sides of the deck board with TWP?
When staining a deck using TWP, is it necessary to stain all sides of each board? Consider the reason for staining wood – to shield it from weather damage, which causes rot and decay. This can lead to an unsightly appearance and structural failure.
Wood that is exposed to the elements will experience constant changes. Wood swells as it absorbs water and moisture, then shrinks when it dries out. These constant changes begin to break down the cellular structure of the wood causing it to crack, split, and warp. Ultraviolet rays fade and discolor the wood leading to a neglected appearance.
To prolong the life of any wood structure, and help maintain its original appearance, it needs to be coated with a weather-resistant stain like TWP. However, because at least one side of the boards will not be as exposed to weather as the other sides, it is not necessary to stain all sides with TWP. The bottom sides of deck boards, for example, are not exposed to much water or UV rays.
The only reason to stain all sides with TWP would be for aesthetic purposes. On a second-story deck, having all sides stained with TWP would be more appealing. This is a purely personal preference. To stain all sides with TWP for appearance is going to be more expensive and labor-intensive. It would take double the amount of stain and time to stain the underside of a deck.
To ensure the wood is shielded from weather and will stand the test of time, staining with TWP is a good investment. To stain all sides with TWP is really only for appearance where applicable but certainly is not necessary. It is really up to the deck owner whether or not to stain all sides. Not doing so will not lend a hand to weather damage or shorten the life of the structure in any way.
Questions? Ask Below!
We are a log home builder and we maintain the houses we build. We use TWP100 exclusively on our cabins. I see lots of posts on here pertaining to decks and how to take care of them, but my question is for these log cabins that have existing TWP 100 on them. Can we just wash them with the Gemini Retore a Deck or is there a different process or product for log cabins? Most of the cabins we are dealing with are oak logs w/ cedar/cypress trim.
The process is the same for a log cabin as it is for a deck. Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit.
I have a porch deck that was painted and I have stripped it with paint and varnish stripper twice which got ‘most of the paint off’ but there are some patches left. Can I sand it first (with no more than 80 grid) to get the rest of the bits of paint off and then use the Gemini cleaner and brightener before staining? It will also smooth out the boards a bit. If so, can I sand now and wait till March (due to winter in TN) and then clean, brighten and stain? Would I need to sand after cleaning and brightening to remove any white fuzzies if they come up?
All the paint has to be fully removed. Once it is, you can use the Gemini Kit and then stain. Do not sand after cleaning.
Would you recommend sanding before restore kit to get the remaining paint off or keep using stripper? Any reason for not sanding? Thank you!
You will probably have to sand or grin to get the paint all the way off.
OK and I can sand now and then use the Gemini Kit in the spring before staining, correct?
Is TWP quoted ” coverage” based on ” wet-on-wet” application i.e. 2 coats or a single coat application
Per coat. For 2 coats applied wet on wet, you will average 100-150 sq feet per gallon.
I’m getting ready to rework my deck and need some advice. The majority of my deck is on a very open southern exposure and takes a heavy beating from the sun (we’re in central IL.) The existing deck is pressure treated 5/4 pine, and I just can’t get it to hold a finish. Started with a semi transparent then went to a solid. The part protected from the sun/rain does better of course but the majority is nearly all gone in less than 2 years. Need to replace much of the wood so now looking to peel it all off. I was originally thinking about composite, but not finding that it is sufficiently more robust or color fast to justify the added cost. Considering IPE and a clear sealer annually, or on the much cheaper end, Menards’ cedartone 5/4 deck boards and again a clear sealer. Keep seeing the TWP name pop up in my research. I know you don’t offer a solid stain, but do you offer an untinted transparent option and how well would you expect it to hold up on Ipe or Cedartone in a high sun application?
No tinted/clear means no UV protection so it will gray in months. It has to be tinted if you want to prevent graying.
If I buy kiln dried redwood it is true that it dries not need to age before staining?
But I still need to remove the mill glaze? How do I remove this?
See this: https://twpstainhelp.com/kdat-and-twp-wait-period-for-new-wood/
Thank you. By the way my redwood will not be treated with any insect deterrent, just dried.
But this is still kind of confusing. The manufacturer seems to have told me that kiln dried needs to weather 4 to 6 months.
And the biggest question I still have is that after using the Gemini cleaner the wood will be wet, and all that drying time was for nothing, seemingly.
How long after using the wood cleaner does it need to dry?
Do not follow the directions of the wood manufacturer when it comes to staining but the stain manufacturer. There are some many different brands and types of stains, and there is not one solution that will always work for all brands. Wait 48 hours after prep to stain.
I am not following directions from the wood manufacturer. It’s not manufactured wood.
When I said ‘manufacturer’ I meant the stain manufacturer of TWP as you suggest. That’s who I spoke with.
Please define what I need to do for kiln dried smooth redwood to remove the mill glaze.
I was told to use the Gemini wood cleaner but that will cause the wood to get wet.
This wood is very expensive and I need to d have the stain penetrate.
Are you saying I can stain it 48 hours after cleaning it? The wood will still be wet I believe.
We already sent you a link for the directions to follow with kiln-dried wood, not sure why you are still questioning the directions we sent on the link?:
Getting the wood wet has no bearing and has to be done for prep. Yes on 48 hours to stain after prep.
Ok. I did read that. Got it. It just seems counterintuitive to have a requirement for the wood to dry for months but the ok to stain it when it’s still wet. But I know this is complicated and I appreciate the help!
It is not about drying for months but about the porosity of the new wood. This article may explain it better: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
I need to reseal cedar braces on our house. The house was built about 2 years ago, but I do not know what type of sealer they used at the time other than it was clear. Can the 1500 go over old water based sealer or just over oil based sealer? Since I do not know what type was previously used I do not want to make a mistake. Thanks
No, you have to remove the old sealer no matter if oil or water-based. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener Kit.
can you apply TWP over sikkens stain? We dont like it and want a solid stain TWP.
No and TWP does not come in a solid stain.
Is there a dealer in the Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas area that sells TWP products?
We sell online only as a TWP dealer.
We had our fence stained with TWP101. The guy got stain on our concrete & we’d like to know how to get it off. Thanks
Use a graffiti remover cleaner and pressure washing.
Hello, Can you paint over TWP Cedartown with a poly to make it shiny?
I have a sanded wood table and the TWP finish is nice but dull.
No, it will peel if you do this.
I have read that TWP cannot be top coated, however, can I paint railings which had previously been stained with TWP (4 or more years ago) using an exterior oil based primer first?
Probably not, but that is more of a question for the paint brand you want to use. Primers are not made for outside decking and paints should not be used on decks in general. Leads to peeling.
I have a 4 1/2 year old boatdock that I am staining for the 3rd time with TWP 120. The horizontal surfaces in direct sunlight for most of the day look really bad; while those in the shade look okay. The vertical post are starting to lighten un.
How would you go about re-staining this project?
I just purchased the RAD Deck Stripper Brightner kit but i want it all to be one level of Pecan when i am finished.
The RAD Stripper/Brightener kit is correct to get it all even for staining.
Just read about newer semisolid oil stain.I have 10 year old redwood deck in good shape with Superdeck transparent stain that is no longer available in Colorado.what needs to be done to deck prior to using your semisolid redwood stain and witch kit should be used.Deck needs restaining this summer or fall
The TWP Semi-Solid is not allowed in CO. You can use the TWP 1500 Series:
For prep, you use this kit:
I used your TWP 1500 last summer to stain my new cedar deck. We applied one coat only as the “wet on wet” approach did not work. The product was pooling on the boards and not absorbing. We spent considerable time going back over the wood to remove the excess stain so as to not be “sticky”. After one winter and entering into the Spring the boards look dull with intermittent gray sections to the wood and the stain appears to not be uniform. Basically, the boards look like they need to be completely restained? Feeling frustrated given the cost of the 5 gallon product I bought and that the boards look so rough. Curious as to what we do next? Do the boards need to be sanded, chemically cleaned, etc. first or do we simply apply another coat?
I am not sure you followed the proper directions for new based on your comment and not absorbing? Please read the article here: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
New wood must weather for 4-12 months and then be properly prepped. Only one coat is to be applied with the need for another coat 12-18 months later.
Clean and brighten the wood with the Gemini Kit and then restain is the correct way. Gemini Kit: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Can TWP 1500 be applied to porous outdoor tile, I spilled a bit on my patio and it looked great before I wiped it off.
It is not designed for this so not sure what will happen over time.
I used TWP 100 and stained in July. A few of the boards look like they could use a bit more protection. Can i reapply before winter? Do I have to do any prep? I’m in Minnesota
Leave as is as more is not better. You can always light clean and reapply in the Spring.
Even if a couple of the boards do not appear to be repelling water as well as the others?
What kind of sealer do you use after you stain your log home for a couple years. I found the color i want to stay with. I just need to deal it now.
You cannot apply a clear sealer over a stain. When you redo you need to use the same color of the stain that you used prior.
We used TWP last year on our cedar pergola and now want to restain the floor of the deck with TWP. The pine is 5 years old and is peeling in some areas. We can strip and brighten using your products and sand if necessary. How would we know if we need to purchase any of the additives to help with the stripping? I would hate to get the stripper and then wish we would have bought the additives also. In your experience does the TWP last longer on cedar or pine? My husband wants to rip out this deck and replace with cedar so the TWP will last longer and we don’t have to keep redoing the staining every couple of years. Is it necessary to strip the old TWP or can you clean the wood and apply a coat of stain when necessary? We will keep the pine deck if we don’t have to strip it every few years.
Thank you for your help.
Cedar and PTP last the same when stained with TWP. Best to strip it off this time as you have a buildup of the TWP. Using both additives will make it easier. It is not possible the make it last longer than a few years
Shelf life of TWP 100 Stain?
See here: https://twpstainhelp.com/shelf-life-of-twp/
My deck is IPE Wood several years old. It has been professionally treated with TWP products last fall, one coat on a professionally sanded and prepped deck. The deck has total exposure to sun and rain. We live just north of San Francisco in Marin county. The deck color has faded. What is the best way to restore color to the deck?
Prep with this kit and the reapply. https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Last year I had a NH company stain my deck with Russet 206 in Massachusetts. I am fine with that but I want to put on a second coat this year and I only can find the 1500 series in Mass. Can you apply the 1500 series on a 100/200 series?
You will need to stick with the 200 Series or strip it all off to go to the 1500. You can get the TWP 200 here: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-200-series-5-gallon
I have a pressure treated deck that I have stained every three years with 1502 for the past 12 years. It always does a great job. I have had to flip one board (curled on the ends). When I stained the deck two days ago this board did not darken up to match the others. I didn’t think to give it a wet-on-wet coat. Is there anything I can do now to darken it up a little?
No, it is not as absorbent so the color will be lighter. Nothing you can do to make it blend besides just natural weathering. In a couple of years when you redo, it will blend.
Hello, Do you have a video or instructions that explain the wet on wet application? When the first coat is wet, how do you apply the second coat? Stepping on the first coat will result in foot marks. Correct?
See here: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
You can step in the first coat.
I’m building a cypress deck now but I will not have access to below the deck to finish that side. Also how long would I wait?
No need to stain the undersides. See here for new wood tips: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I will be staining my cedar white shakes on my house. I need the 200 series samples, that your company recommends, Where can I get them ?
If it is stain by the 200 series does the white cedar skakes turn gray after a few years ?
Tinted colors fade over the years.
Is it worth staining the backside of a 10 month old cedar fence that is facing a steep, tree covered hill? I’m in western Washington, so there is plenty of moisture, but I would expect minimal UV exposure based on the position.
My “covered” porch is treated pine, 10 years old, been stained once (6 years ago) and it extends around the entire circumference of my house. While it is covered, the outward edges received more rain and sun and thus take more abuse from the weather. I also have dogs that like to run on the deck. So I’m looking for the best protection I can get from rain, sun, and dogs. I know, that’s a lot to ask for. But the deck has weathered very well considering it’s mostly covered. I don’t really need a restore type product as I don’t have the damage. I like the idea of a solid color stain and need it in a “grayish” color. Our climate is 6B, on the Missouri / Arkansas border. Temps can get to 100 in the summer and single-digit in winter. Which stain would you suggest and can I get it in a gray color? Thx in advance.
Sorry but TWP does not come in solid color stains.
I’m not looking for a solid color stain. I just said I liked the idea. Sorry for the confusion. What I’m looking to answer is which of your products you’d recommend based upon my environment. Then, can it be “tinted/colored” in a gray or can you get it in a gray?
Look at the TWP 100 Series in the Cape Cod Gray color.
Thanks for the response. One final question: If I wanted to tint it a darker gray can this be done and if so, how to go about it? Suggestions?
Sorry but no, you cannot tint it darker.
In late 2013 our deck was re-stained with what I was told was TWP + Radcon. Apparently a blend of what now would be TWP 1500 and TWP 200 (for more pigment). Local companies mention a mix/blend of 1500 and 200 from 80%/20% to 20%/80%. The concerns being that the more TWP 200, the longer drying time and the higher chance of pigment rubbing off.
P.S. I searched the TWPStain.com web site for Radcon and did not get any hits.
P.P.S. Location is Northern California, SF Bay Area about 3 miles from the coast. Fair amount of daily sun on the deck; hot occasionally; winter rains
TWP 200 does take longer to dry but it does not peel.
Is “Radcon” a ‘thing” – that is, is it a specific product or a specification of the mixture?
Alternatively, is it generic and is term to describe a mixture, of any proportions, of TWP 200 & TWP 1500?
RADCON is a concentrate that is not sold to the public.
Planning on using 1502 (Redwood) in California
Have sanded 40 year old redwood planks, will clean & prep using your product. I’m concerned that the old wood will be really absorbent. Do you suggest additional stain. Using your calculator which says 4 gallons, will 5 gallon suffice? Thank you
Hard to say without knowing the sq footage.
360 sq ft
5- gallons will be enough.
Is TWP good to use on unfinished outdoor furniture such as a cypress swing? Location SW Missouri.
Yes, use the 100 Series.
When applying TWP 1500 stain to vertical boards and spindles should I work from top-to-bottom or bottom-to-top?
Top to bottom.
what happens if I drip on the unstained lower boards does it show through?
Only if you let it dry before wiping or going over with stain.
I have a 40 year old log home that was previously stained with CWF cedar color. It has darkened over the years and the wood looks dry. I am thinking to use your stain stripper and brightner combo then stain with TWP. I would like to lighten the wood as much as possible. Do you have any before and after pictures of log homes having used this product? How difficult is the stripper to use and how is it applied? Will it harm my patio which is attached to house.?
See this for photos:
The stripper is applied with a pump sprayer and then pressure washed off. The brightener is applied after to neutralize the stain stripper.
Will the stripper damage my patio block? Are there photos of before & after the stripper is used on a house?
I would like to see the results.
No, the stripper will not damage patio blocks. We do not have before and afters of prep on a house. When stripping a vertical house, you will need these additives for the stripper: https://www.twpstain.com/wood-stain-strippers/rad-stripper-additives
We are building a cabin and have used TWP Cedartone on new white pine siding. We are seeing mildew and mold on the wood and thought TWP prevented such. We have take a piece of scrape stained siding to the supplier who agrees that it is mold and mildew. We don’t understand why this is happening and what can be done about it. Can you advise?
TWP does contain mildewcides to prevent mildew from growing in the stain but no wood stain can stop mildew from growing on top of a stain. That would be impossible. Since it is growing on top of the stain that would be more of an issue with your environment. Using a product like “Wet and Forget” would help with this.
On waiting 48 hours: I’m currently in a very limited window of opportunity to get stain on a prepared deck. If I wait 48 hours, we’re expected to have rain the evening of the day I want to stain the deck. I have a moisture meter for wood and I’m not afraid to use it. The deck has been drying well since washing. Do you know the moisture percentage that I should be looking for before applying stain? I’m guessing somewhere in the 5 to 12% range?
If I have TWP 100 series already applied on my deck but needs to be redone since it is starting to fade – what do I need to do prior to application? Just clean/brighten? or strip also?
Clean and brighten. No need to strip.
can you ship 100 series to wisconsin ?
Yes, it can.
Can you mix cape cod gray with clear to produce a lighter shade ?
I asked the question few days back, don’t see if the reply was posted. Installed Redwood deck, pergola and fence in my backyard (Bay Area, CA) a year+ back. This winter has been very wet and the wood needs to be stained. Will the CA Redwood or Redwood in the 1500 series work better and last longer? Thx. HB
They will work the same. Just a color preference. Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit first: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Hey there. Dumb question here…I decided to order 3 samples to try out on my deck prior to buying 5 gallon drums. My deck is over a year old and I pressure washed it 5 days ago.
Question: Do I just brush on the 3 different colors of stain to see which one looks best? Captian Obvious here…but I plan on using a sprayer to handle the entire job so I wasnt sure if I should spray or brush it on.
Just apply with a brush.
Can Clear stain be used on a deck?
Yes, but it will gray naturally. For UV protection from graying, you will need a tinted color.
Will it gray natural if the clear is applied annually?
Yes, it will gray in a matter of months with the Clear as it has no UV protection. The tinted colors will offer UV protection.
We finished 1 coat last year of Rustic Oak on a white pine log house. Can we make it darker and more brown by using a different color for our second coat? It looks lighter and more red than what we expected. Didn’t look like the computer color chip. For prep, prior to using TWP, we sanded the entire house to get the very old other (don’t know brand) stain off the logs.
Thanks, Frank in NC
You could try the Dark Oak over this or a mixture of Dark Oak and Rustic.
Should stain be applied on the sides between the deck boards?
No need for this.
We are installing a new tongue and groove doug fir porch floor on our covered porch. We live in upstate NY. We did not pretreat the boards prior to install. Is it necessary to let the wood “cure” before we apply TWP stain? What TWP products do you recommend we use once we are able to treat the floor?
See here about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
You will need the 1500 Series for NY. Thanks
I plan on using your TWP Cedartone 101 on my new 2×4 cedar deck boards. I would like to first use a preservative on all six (6) sides before I install the 2X4. I plan on using the following procedure before using your stain:
1. Remove the “Mill Graze” with your product Gemini or Wolman Deck and Fence Brightener.
2. Power wash the brightener off.
3. Use Woodlife Classic Clear Wood Preservative on all sides and three coats on the cut ends.
4. Install the boards to the joists.
5. Six (6) months later use a brightener then put use one coat of your TWP Cedartone 101.
Will this be okay?
We have used the Gemini prep on our cedar deck and getting ready to stain. We have deck skirting out of cedar that slightly touches the ground to keep rabbits out. Some of the skirting is on rock but some is going into mulch. My question is when staining towards the bottom – should I let the stain run at the very end to prevent my brush from picking up any mulch or debris? I have raked away debri but the ends are dirty.
Thanks for the help!
I live in MD and my deck is many years old and weathered in some spots. It was kiln dried pine and has been stained twice with oil-based Olympic semi-transparent (caramel color). Olympic has now switched to water-based stains which I would rather avoid. Because I live in MD, I guess I have to use TWP 1500 and I was thinking about 1516 – Rustic since it seems closest in color to how the deck looks in most spots. I have power washed the mold/mildew off but I have not removed all of the pigment from the previous stain. Is that required ? It has been many years since my last staining and I assume the wood will quickly soak up the new TWP stain. Please advise when you can and thanks.
Hi — I live in Knoxville, TN and my ‘new’ BACK deck is 18 months old and was done with kiln dried pine. It has never been stained. I recently pressure washed it. I bought Sherwin Williams Deck stain, read about your product and am returning SW now and buying yours :)). With that being said, I’d like to know which stain is best to buy for my area (100 or 1500) and my deck gets full sun exposure. It is approximately 550 sq.ft. based on your calculator (16×18 deck w/9 48″ steps. Would you recommend the 5 gallon bail or less? One or two coats? Do I still need to do add’l prep work? Would you recommend brushing on the verticals and using paint pad on decking or for a novice, can I get away with spraying the deck? Need to do the option that will turn out best for a person never having stained a deck before :)).
Lastly, I have rough cut cedar posts on my FRONT porch — used SW on them and the railings 5 years ago — looks horrible now, dark & graying. What can I do to make them look “fresh” again, anything? Then I will stain with the cedar stain that I plan on buying from you.
THANK YOU SO MUCH for your time and help!! Can’t wait to get this project going. Tried to upload photos, but couldn’t get it to work.
How long until you can walk on decking and how long until you can safely put the deck furniture back?
One thing I would say to anyone using this product is this. LET THE WOOD AGE A LONG TIME! I built a beautiful deck last Summer and let it age about 3 months before prepping and staining it. One year later I have mildew, stains, and lots of places where the stain has just worn through. The deck has very little use most of the year, so I know it’s not wear. I’m fairly certain it just needed more time to dry in the Pacific Northwest. So this Summer, I am stripping it all down and letting it dry another few months and then re staining. What a pain. It sure looked beautiful for a couple of months. Hopefully, this next application will retain its beauty. In the meantime, I’ve got to order more stain. Bummer.
I recently built a cedar fence with new rough cut cedar. I also have 4″x4″ treated posts and treated 2″x4″s. It has been completed for about two weeks and I won’t be able to get to staining it with the TWP 100 that I purchased for another two weeks. Basically a month of weathering. I live in WA state. Do I need to do anything to prep the wood before I stain it? I will wait for a period of four days of dry weather (48 hrs to dry and 48 hrs after I apply the stain to dry). I currently plan to:
1. Do zero preparation since it is new wood.
2. Spray with a pump sprayer and than back brush.
3. Apply a second coat within 30 minutes using the same method of application.
Any suggestions or corrections? Thanks!