Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
TWPStainHelp.com Tips: How to Apply TWP Wood Stains to a Fence
Wood fences have been around for many years and can provide beauty, protection, and privacy to any home. Like other wood structures, wood fences need to be treated to keep them from becoming weather damaged. The key is to block out harmful UV rays and moisture. Using an easy to apply TWP formula wood stain can help preserve your fence for many years.
TWP Fence Staining Tips
Prior to coating your fence with TWP Stains, it is important that the fence first is cleaned. Do this using a product like the Gemini Restore-A-Deck wood cleaner. Once the wood fence is free of dirt and grime it can be coated with any of the TWP Series Wood Stains that are offered in several different wood tones and colors.
Check your local forecast before embarking on a fence staining project. TWP fence stain is best applied in temperatures between 60-80 degrees. It should not drop below freezing within 8 hours of application. No rain should be expected within 12 hours of application.
TWP Total Wood Preservative applies easily with a roller, brush, stain pad, pump sprayer, or airless sprayer. The most effective and doable method for the average homeowner is using a garden type pump sprayer.
Be sure to mix the TWP product well before transferring it to a garden sprayer or roller pan. Use plastic or tarps to protect any shrubbery, house siding, concrete, or other surfaces you do not wish to get the stain on. Also pay attention to the opposite side of the fence, especially when using a pump or airless sprayer. The stain will incidentally be sprayed through the board gaps and settle on the other side.
Start on one end of the fence and begin applying TWP stain to an entire board at a time before moving on to the next. Apply only as much stain as the wood can absorb. After several minutes go back to where you started and wipe any excess stain or drips away with a brush or clean cloth. Continue this method until the fence is coated.
Protecting a wood fence with TWP wood and fence stain is something a homeowner can do pretty easily with the right knowledge and tools. TWP Wood Stain has been around for over 2 decades and is a leader in wood preservation. TWP will enhance the look and life of your wooden fence and should be applied every 3-5 years as needed.
Temperature and humidity when applying two 101 cedartone
Less than 90. Humidity does not matter.
Here’s the fence after one coat of the TWP 300 Clear stain.
I have about 60 feet of new bamboo fence that I will be staining and I purchased 2 gallons of TWP 300 Clear. After applying the stain with a brush on both sides of the fence it looks quite shiny. Is that supposed to happen? Should I be adding a second coat?
The 300 Series is designed to have a shine. it does not look like you need another coat.
Thanks so much for the prompt response.
MY DECK WAS POWER WASHED AND STAINED LAST WEEK. IT RAINED SEVERAL DAYS AGO. I NOTICED THERE AREA AREAS THAT WATER BUBBLED UP, OTHER AREAS WHERE WATER IS IN SMALL POOLS. DO I NEED TO RESTAIN THE DECK?
No, it is fine.
I am considering using untreated southern yellow pine, rough cut and straight from the sawmill, as fencing boards. Will your stain provide sufficient sealing and protection for untreated fence boards?
Yes, it will.
Thank you. I thought it would.
The boards will be sawn this week, do they need any prep or are they ready to accept the stain right away?
Which stain do you recommend?
Do you have an estimate on coverage / square foot for rough sawn pine?
Thanks again.
PS: I have used your TWP 100 Series on my deck, it is the best I’ve ever used!
Use the 1500 Series for this. About 150-250 sq feet per gallon.
I applied one coat of the 1500 series in the ‘Natural’ color and it is very orange-ish. My wife really does not like it. What would happen if I applied a second coat of another semi-transparent stain over this coat?
You should not without prep. Use this kit. https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Thank you, that of course makes sense now that I’ve read it. A follow-up question: I have about 7 gallons of 1500 Natural. I thought I read here that it is possible to change the color by using another 1500 color. Am I right about that?
You can mix colors together of the same series.
I have a white cedar fence that is about a year old that I will be staining with TWP 1500. I see in the application instructions for decks that ‘new wood’ should only receive one coat of stain. Would that instruction apply to my situation? Specifically, would my one year untreated fence be considered ‘new wood’ and only receive one coat?
Since it is 1-year-old, apply two coats wet on wet.
OK, I’m more confused despite your simple and clear reply. I called the 866-856-3325 number earlier, explained my situation, and was instructed to apply only one coat. I did say my fence was a year or less old white cedar.
(I do appreciate the help, sincerely)
One year or more and 2 coats are typically needed. In addition, fences are more porous wood so they can take more stain.
My loca6ion: Georgia, plenty of sun. New cedar fence. I want to protect the fence from UV damage but retain the natural colors, the light and dark, of the cedar. What is your recommendation??
You have to use a stain color for UV protection from graying. Use TWP 100 series. See colors here: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series-stain-colors-and-photo-albums/
We have a cedar fence that we are working on. Part of it had an older stain (different brand stain) that we used the stripper/brightener on, then restained with TWP-100 Pecan. Some of the fence was only stained about 5 years ago with TWP-100 Pecan. So on this section we used the cleaner/brightener, since we are using the same color. But these sections are still mottled and grey in places. Will the stain even this out? Do we need to clean again? Or do we need to strip this too?
See pics. 1st and 2nd are cleaned/brightened. 3rd is stripped but not stained. 4th is completely done.
To get this to look even and stain correctly it would be best to strip and brighten for prep: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Thank you for the quick reply!
I have a rough cedar rail fence that was installed last fall. I’m getting ready to prep and apply TWP 100 cape cod gray with a brush. Should I expect the coverage to be closer to 100 or 200 sq. ft. / gal?
About 100-150 since rough sawn.
How do I easily pour the stain from the 5 gallon container into the smaller cup of the sprayer that I will use to apply the stain to my fence?
Carefully so it does not spill. A funnel may help.
Hello! We just installed a redwood fence two weeks ago to match an existing redwood fence that was installed in 2017. My neighbor used a Sherwin Williams semi-transparent stain immediately after installing the fence and hasn’t done anything to it since. You can see the difference in the two in the photo attached. My questions are: can we get the old fence to look more like the new one? If so, what products do you recommend? Also, what stain do you recommend for the new fence that will maintain as much of the original color/texture as possible, but also protect it. (I realize the color will have to change some because that’s what protects it!). Thanks!
You will need to let the new wood weather. See here: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
After cleaner and brighten all wood suing this: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
As for the stain, any color that you like will work.
Thank you! All wood is rough sawn wood, very dry; especially the 3 year old fence portion. Do I still need to wait to stain?
It looks rough sawn on one side but smooth on the other. Please confirm both sides are rough.
Thank you again for your help. Both sides are indeed rough. I just called the lumber store to confirm.
No need to wait then but you will need to prep the older section.
Thank you again. And to clarify, you recommend the Gemini product for the prep work?
Yes.
I stained my new fence 3 years ago with TWP 1500…I am going to re-stain the fence…do I need to strip the old TWP or can I clean/restore and re-stain with same TWP1500? I thought this was the plus with TWP that I would not have to strip completely…but I can not find detailed info/instructions on help site about re-staining an already stained TWP fence again with TWP.
thanks great product.
Use this kit for prep when reapplying: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
yes. thanks. Without doubt, I planned to use this kit. I guess I am trying to see instructions for re-staining rather than the initial staining. a lot of info on your site for initial staining, but less detail to be found on re-staining with TWP already used in the initial. How much should I be pressure washing the existing stain out before re-staining the same color, or if it is just a lighter clean with the restore-a-deck-cleaner. I followed your instructions to a T on the initial staining, with great results…I would like to do the same on this re-stain…do it once and correctly.
You use the same kit and steps when restaining. Nothing different.
ok. thanks
Do I need to use wood cleaner if I’ve never stained my fence? It was installed 9/10 months ago. (I definitely plan to powerwash) thanks
Yes: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Thanks, so if I use this do I still need to power wash?
Yes, you use it while pressure washing.
Thanks. One more question. Are there directions for using a pressure washer? The directions all mention just mixing in a pump sprayer.
Thanks, one more question. Is there directions to apply this with a pressure washer instead of a pump sprayer? Or is the pressure washing done after the cleaning?
Mix first, apply with pump sprayer, then pressure wash off.
I want to apply twp 100 Cedar to a 10 year old cedar fence that has turned grey. I don’t believe it has ever been stained. What do you recommend for prep?
Thanks,
Use this kit for the prep: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
how many gallons of twp 100 would be needed for approx 2150 sq ft of fencing using a sprayer
do you have an answer
Hello, we answered you yesterday, the question is right below in the first question you asked on the same subject. This is what we said:
For two coats applied wet on wet, about 20 Gallons.
calculate twp 100 needed for approx 2150 sq ft fencing
For two coats applied wet on wet, about 20 Gallons.
I have a brand new cedar fence. I live in Kansas. Should I use the 100 or 1500 series?
The 100 Series.
I bought a 5gl of rustic and it’s more red then what’s pictured. What can I add to it to make it more brown?
Add a gallon or two of Dark Oak to the 5-gallon to brown out the color.
will using to many coats of TWP transparent stain build to a solid color appearence?
No, but using too much stain is not a good idea and will not properly soak in or last longer.
I would like to use the Dark Oak color for our pressure-treated pine fence, which is a couple years old and has never been finished. After we thoroughly clean and brighten the wood, would you recommend the 100 or 1500 series for pine?
1500 Series for this.
Do I need to prep new bamboo fencing before applying TWP?
What Series are you going the use? The TWP 100, 200, and 1500 will not work on Bamboo. Yes you should clean first.
I want to stain my deck in the next couple of weeks. We haven’t had rain but the deck is wet with dew in the mornings. Are we safe waiting until the dew evaporates and then start or apply later in the day? I’m concerned because they are calling for rain the first part of october which might delay my project to middle or end of October. Were are in Missouri.
Hello,
I am planning on installing TWP 100 on my cedar picket fence with pressure treated pine pickets. The fence was installed in the end of October. I was trying to use your calculator but I wasn’t sure how much I would need of the stain and Gemini re-store for prep. The fence is approximately 315 LF, 5′ tall with 1X4 pickets spaced 1″ apart. I have attached a picture for your use (taken several months ago).
Thanks
We have a cedar fence that we have used the TWP 100 Cedar tone on…I would like to go over it (5 years later) with the 1500 rustic. Is this doable or are we “married” to the cedar tone from here on out?
Fence: Rough board on board cedar – weathered one year
want to apply TWP1500 I have about 100 linear feet of fence (again board on board)
1) how many gallons will I need?
2) I don’t really want a semi-transparent stain (want to use clear) but I WANT UV protection. Which is the lightest stain 1530 – natural or 1515 honeytone? From the sample it looks as if natural is as close to clear as possible – thanks
Do fences (aged wood) need a double coat? Also, when mixing a can should the bottom ever feel soft or sludgy? What happens if you use stain that still has some softness at the bottom of the can?
we are trying to find a color that would give our new cedar fence the ‘wet look’, we have the honeytone sample already and it is too light/yellowish, would the cedartone be a better option for this??
Yes you can wait for the dew to dry off and then stain. You cannot apply the TWP though if the wood is internally or visibly wet from rain.
Multiply total length x height then double for both sides. For two coats of stain you will get roughly 100-150 sq. feet per gallon.
Thanks. But need just 1 for new fence installed in October, correct?
Once coat if smooth wood. 2 light coats applied wet on wet if Rough Sawn wood.
The cedar pickets are rough cut. The cedar rails and top trim cap are smooth. The pressure treated pine posts are smooth cut.
Most is rough so do the 2 coats.
Thank you very much for your help! Last question. I read how to apply and pump sprayer is listed. Can I also use an electric sprayer such as a Graco TrueCoat Plus II?
Yes for the first coat. Use a stain pad or brush for the second coat.
That is water damage and we do see that on fences a lot. There is nothing you can do about it as the discoloration is internal.
Oh wow I see. Although I’ll stick with the current 1530, is there a tone you would suggest down the road that could mask the damage? Would I need a semi-solid?
You cannot mask but you maybe able to blend so it does not show as much. Dark Oak may work.
I assume the weird streaks on the top piece of wood is water damage as well? (See pic)
Most likely yes.
I’m applying 1530 and seem to get darker areas at the bottom of the fence. It usually is a little grayer at the bottom of the fence even before putting stain . This is after powerwashing and bleaching. I can’t seem to get rid of the darker areas no matter what I do. Does stain just settle at the bottom due to gravity? Is there anything I can do to get rid of these darker areas? Does anyone else here have that problem?
This is most likely not a staining issue but rather an issue with your wood internally being darker. Feel free to post a picture.
See the bottom, where it’s darker. When there is no stain I still see a different color in that bottom section. Always thought it was water collecting at the bottom of the wood after the powerwash, but it stays. I can’t be the only one this happens to, but I don’t see anyone complain about it no matter how much I google.
You can apply do this down the road as long as you prep correctly first. If going darker in color you can just clean and recoat.
1. What is total sq. footage and are you doing both sides?
2. 1515 Honeytone is the lightest tint. Lighter than the Natural.
Doing BOTH sides – 650 sq ft – each “side” has two sides in that it is board on board fencing. So the square footage is multiplied by 4. So I am estimating about 2600 sq. feet in all. Also posts and caps.
Probably about 20-25 gallons.
Total Square footage in all = 2304 square feet –
For two coats you will need about 20-25 Gallons.
I live in San Diego, CA. I am building a redwood vertical fence. The panels have a rough finish. I was thinking of uses the 1500 series redwood color stain. How long should i wait after i install to clean and put on the stain? Also, the fencing came with some black marks on the wood, i guess from the tanic acids or metal blade, can you recommend a good cleaner to use before applying the stain. I have (red) treated wood for my framing, should i put the stain on the treated wood as well or no? lastly, I’m trying to figure out the amount i’m going to need. i have 300 panels of 1x6x5ft panels. i need to stain both sides. thank you in advance for your help.
Please give us a total sq. footage for both sides to determine amount needed. Rough sawn wood can be stained right away. Just one coat. Use a wood brightener to remove the dark spots.
I powerwashed my fence and although it looks 50x better and almost looks like new, there are gray areas that don’t seem to come off on certain parts of some boards. I ordered the Natural 1500 series stain. Would the results look “off” or inconsistent if I stain these gray areas or do I need to somehow scrub/bleach these out before I stain?
It should be fine as long as the wood looked good when wet with water. It is normal though to have knots lighter in color when stained.
That is settling of the pigment at the bottom. Best to mix first before use.
Thanks. Do fences need a double coat like horizontal surfaces do?
Not always. Depends on on the gae of the wood and how absorbent the wood is.
It’s about 10 years old, maybe a little less. Any tips on what I should look for in terms of absorbency so I don’t waste any stain? In the “Wet on Wet” tips it says “In most cases, a second coat only needs to be applied to horizontals as the verticals will last twice as long”. Thanks.
I would do the two coats wet on wet application if 10 years old. One coat for verticals and two for floors and top of railings.
Okay, I think I interpreted this right. A fence, which is obviously considered “vertical”, only needs one coat, no matter what the age is. Correct?
Fences are different and older fence wood will be very absorbent and will require the two coats wet on wet application.
How is this twp suppose to be applied? Wet on wet? My contractor is all over the place applying this stuff even going over previous areas that have dried already. My deck looks splotchy! There are drip marks everywhere and shiny areas and dull areas.
Yes apply wet on wet: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
What happens if you don’t. My contractor/painter is applying it everywhere not working in any certain area at a time and some dries and then he goes over it again with overlap. There are shiny areas and it looks splotchy when dry. I don’t know what to tell him. I haven’t paid him the balance but this is a 4000.00 job. I want it done correctly.
If it is drying shiny then it is over applied and not being applied well. This can result in the stain prematurely failing. ThweTWP needs to absorb into the wood, not sit/film on top of the wood.
I have used your stripper and brightner. Some areas still had some Cabot showing trough. I have sanded…do I need to re-clean and brighten again to open the wood? Thanks so much. Jeanie
If you power sanded the entire deck than it would help to rinse and clean off sanding dust to allow the stain to soak deeper into the wood.
Does the natural come in the 100 series?
Sorry but it does not.
Cori, maybe the Cedartone or the Natural.
Is the Natural just clear? Does the natural have any UV protectant? Would I need any?
The Natural is not clear and yes you need UV protection from graying. The Natural is richer than the Honeytone.