Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
TWP Stain Tips for New wood Decks in 2024
When applying TWP Wood Stains for the first time to new wood there will need to be proper steps taken. New smooth wood or decking is not ready to be pre-stained prior to installation or stained right after installation. It is best to follow the directions of the TWP Wood Stain when it comes to applying a coating to new wood for the first time, not the lumber yard or the paint store’s as they do not understand the proper prep needed.
TWP and New Smooth Decking or Exterior Wood
It is important to understand that new smooth wood is not absorbent enough for the TWP Stains. New wood contains a higher moisture content and a “mill glaze”. Mill Glaze is a waxy film that results from the fast turning blades that cut the profile on a manufactured log. The high speed of the turning blades produces heat that draws sap and moisture out of the log. As it cools and dries, it creates a film or coating on the logs. This will hinder the TWP’s ability to penetrate into the wood grain.
Note: New Rough Sawn vertical wood/fencing can be stained right away with no wait and with no prep as it does not have mill glaze and is very absorbent. Just make sure the wood is fully dry. If Rough sawn wood has aged or oxidized (grayed) then it will need to be prepped with Gemini Restore Kit. One coat for most instances of newly installed Rough Sawn wood.
Tips for TWP and New Wood
Let the Wood Weather First
TWP wants the wood to weather and dry out for 4-12 months after installation. This will allow the moisture content to drop and the exposed wood cells will oxidize from the sun’s UV, turning slightly gray.
Prepping New Wood for TWP Stains
After letting the wood weather it is time to prep the wood. This step consists of using the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit. This kit contains both a Step 1 Wood Deck Cleaner and a Step 2 Wood Deck Brightener. The Step 1 cleaner will help remove the dirt, graying, and mill glaze from the wood while Step 2 Brightener will neutralize the cleaner and help restore the natural color.
Staining New Wood and Decking for the First Time
Even after the waiting period and the proper prepping, new smooth wood is still not as absorbent as it will be in a few years. We strongly suggest only applying 1 coat of the TWP Stains the first time. Do not over apply as the TWP may not penetrate into the wood correctly. Make sure to back wipe any excess stain that does not penetrate properly into the wood after 30 minutes. For new smooth wood, the TWP 100 Series if allowed in your state, otherwise use the TWP 1500 Series.
Maintaining TWP Stains
Apply a light maintenance coat to the flooring in 9-24 months. If just slightly dirty prep with soapy water to remove grime and reapply one light coat. If you wait 18-24 months make sure to prep again with the Gemini Restore A Deck. After the first year or two, your wood will be able to absorb more TWP stain which results in a longer stain life and protection!
TWP Pro Tip:
TWP is a penetrating wood preservative. It performs properly when it penetrates 100% into the wood. Over applying will not result in longer protection.
Have a Question? Please Ask Below.
We live in the Seattle area and had a new cedar deck installed last August. It has now been 7-8 months and we have not applied anything to the deck yet, as a TWP rep recommended we wait at least 3 to 6 months before staining.
I am wondering if we should use TWP 100 or, better yet, 1500, as it has the added chemicals to resist mildew and fungus.
I do understand that we will need to clean and brighten first.
Thank you!
Both the 100 and the 1500 are EPA registered with the additives needed for mildew prevention. Use the 100 Series as it will soak into new wood better. See this for more info:
I read that I should wait at least 24-48 hours after the Gemini Restore Kit before I apply TWP. Can I wait a week? Was going to clean one weekend and stain the next, but I’m worried that it will discolor in that time. thanks!
I had a cedar fence installed last year (july ’16) and am planning on staining it here in a couple of months. The supports are smooth wood, the rest is rough. Should I use one coat and wait a year and apply a second one? or just go ahead and apply two coats? Also, I was planning on using a sprayer, anything extra I’ll need to do if I use one?
Apply the two coats now “wet on wet”. Spray on the first coat but back brush the second coat with a brush or stain pad:
https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
Hello! We have two questions. In November 2016, we installed a cedar pergola. We have let it “weather” till now (April 2017). Since this is the first coat, do we need to clean & prep the wood? Also, we love the “cedar look”. Would we order the Cedartone or Natural to showcase the cedar look? Thanks for your advice.
Yes, you need to prep with the Gemini Restore Kit. As for the colors, I would suggest getting some samples to test so you can pick a color you like: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
I installed a port orford cedar deck last May (2016)
Im planning on staining in the next few weeks. Which stain should I use? Also, prep with wash and brightner Im guessing?
Also, I built an arbor over the deck using PT wood. Dose this need cleaning and brightener as well? Can I use the same stain?
Yes, all new wood needs to be prepped first. You can use the same stain for all. Use the TWP 100 if allowed in your state. If not, use the TWP 1500 Series.
If my state allows the 100 and the 1500, which one is better for a new deck that is 6 months old? Wood is cedar.
Both would work, but the 100 is a little better at soaking into new wood. Just the one coat this year and another light coat in 12-18 months.
I applied the one coat to TWP last year on my new cedar. It looks good and I want to apply the 2nd coat this Summer. Will the Gemini Cleaner be the prep that I need? Should I use the same color?
Yes on both the same color and the prep. Use the cleaner at 1/2 concentration. You just want to lightly wash to remove the dirt, not any of the TWP stain.
Does using kiln dried PT pine eliminate the drying time needed for new wood?
Kiln dried is treated differently but you still need to weather and prep some. See this:
https://twpstainhelp.com/kdat-and-twp-wait-period-for-new-wood/
This was TWP 100 stain.
Thanks
It may not adhere or soak in. Can you post a picture, please? It really depends on if the wood is smooth or rough cut. If smooth, you should wait 9-12 months before applying another coat. If rough cut, it is probably okay to apply another coat a week later.
It’s smooth cut, but the wood looks pretty dry…not sure what that means…
Do these photos help?
You should wait. Do a light wash with water in the Fall, and apply a coat then.
OK, thanks.
Brand new fence. I waited 3 months then cleaned and brightened. After putting the first coat on, I realized I didn’t have enough for even 1/3 of a second coat. What happens if I put a second coat on a week after the first?
Located in Northern South Carolina near the Blue Ridge Mountains. PTP 18 yr old decks and covered porch. Replacing some deck boards & adding new vertical 1 x 6 apron to existing railing with kiln dried PTP. Understand that these should weather for a month before stain, but the apron will get virtually no weathering due to its location. Will sanding with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper along with using the Restore a Deck cleaner and brightener adequately prepare the surface for TWP stain? if not, what do you suggest? For the whole project, In what order should cleaning or stripping, brightening and sanding be done? The deck has been neglected for years and needs sanding as well as repair while the covered porch is in excellent shape. I am planning to use the 100 series on both old and new wood unless you advise otherwise as it will be very difficult to separate the two.
We had a deck installed last week, and the contractor says we need to get stain on it right away. We have already noticed some cracking of the top railings and decking that are in full sun exposure in 80s-90s midwest heat. Should we stain to prevent damage, or wait longer for better absorption of the product? Can we prevent damage from too quickly drying in the meantime while we wait? We’ve been spraying the deck down with water as we’re able.
I have a deck (in the full sun in Western NC) made with 5/4 x 6 pressure treated decking that came with ‘built-in’ water repellent that is supposed to last ‘up to 3 years’. It has been installed for approx. a year and a half and has a lot of black spots. I have used an oxalic acid-based cleaner/brightener, and an oxygen bleach (eco-friendly!) product, but many black spots persist. I also tried a little pressure washing, but it didn’t help.
I have your Restore-A-Deck Stripper and Brightener powders and was wondering if that would be appropriate before using the TWP 100 Cedartone. (My cans of TWP 100 say to use bleach and water, but I really prefer not to use bleach.)
Also, the Stripper instructions say to make sure everything is dry, but then it says to apply liberally to damp wood. So, dry or damp?
Thanks very much.
I put in a Meranti mahogany deck in July and was hoping to have it stained before winter (southern NJ). From what I’m reading you would recommend waiting until the Spring to do this rather than doing it in October before it gets too cold? I don’t know if the type of wood makes a difference as far as the recommendation to wait 4-12 months. I certainly wouldn’t want to turn out badly and have to strip it. Also are there any specific recommendations for this type of wood with prep/application? Thanks!
I’m getting ready to stain some treated pine glu lam beams with TWP 100 series that have been in storage in the garage for about 5 years. They were stacked with spacers between to allow for air circulation. I sanded with 60 grit and then washed with oxy clean and detergent to remove the dust. The beams still appear “green” in places and the top seemed to bead water. Are these ready for stain – should I sand again with 40 grit? Many thanks for your support!
We just replaced our deck with a new cedar deck the end of June. We live in Michigan. Should a put the first coat of stain on in the fall ie mid-late Oct. or wait until spring?
Hi thanks for the quick answer…No I didn’t let the wood season, but I did use only one coat (albeit a heavy coat). So what kind of stripper should i use, and after stripping should I clean & brighten again even though i’ll be waiting till next year to stain, or just strip it and let it season that way? Thanks
Are their any long term problems by staining my treated deck right away with a thin coat?
I’d be ok with staining again in 5 months if necessary.
Using Penta WR porch flooring by COX
A bunch of random questions as I prepare to stain this weekend…
1. I ordered the 5 gallon pail – is it easy to pour into a paint tray for use with a pad applicator?
2. When using a pad applicator, is it best to use a paint tray and dip it into the tray to soak it, then plant down on deck and run it in a straight line from end to end? Any back and forth movements and just straight forward?
3. Should I push the pad until the stain doesn’t come off anymore? Should I overlap just a bit where the stain starts to fade after each stroke?
4. When staining the verticals with a solid stain, should I use a stain brush or will a paint brush do fine?
5. Any tips on where to start when staining the horizontals? Should I start on one end and go all he way down the line for each board, end to end? Or start in the middle of the deck and go all the way to one side board by board and then do the other half the same way so I am always pushing the pad to the edges rather than having to pull the pad out from the edge?
6. Two coats of 1500 after a sanded, cleaned and brightened deck?
7. Any caution against doing the verticals in a solid stain first (the same day) as the horizontals?
I am stripping my deck of old stain before applying TWP 100 in Dark Oak. Do I need to use both a Cleaner AND a Brightener, or is just a brightener ok? I think I read on here where a cleaner isn’t necessary if stripping.
Also, my deck is 288 Sq. Ft. Is 2 gallons of stain enough for wet-on-wet application?
I plan to…Apply stripper. Powerwash off. Apply Brightener. Powerwash off. Let dry (2 or 3 days?). Stain wet on wet. Let cure 2 or 3 days. Complain about back pain, sunburn and mosquito bites. Enjoy deck. Am I missing anything?
Hi TWP – I had a pressure treated pine deck installed in June. We would like to keep the natural wood color and apply a clear waterproofer with UV protection. Do you have such a product? What are the instructions for the waterproofer product? Does it need two or three days of drying time from the last rainfall before I can apply for example? I live in Western Pennsylvania and we may not have many consecutive days of no rain left.
Also, I have power washed all of the wood and there is some staining from leaves and tree debris. Is there a way to remove these stains?
I just replaced my deck boards and railings with kiln-dried pressure-treated Southern pine on my deck in North Carolina. However, I had to use regular (i.e. moist) pressure-treated boards for the stairs and top of the railing. I plan on using the cleaner and brightener (some of the deck boards have gotten dirty), then staining with TWP1500 Rustic stain-do I just leave the non-kiln-dried wood unstained until it has a chance to dry out? Also, the deck stain calculator estimates 600 sq. ft. for total surface area, and says I need 6 gal. Since most of the wood is new (albeit kiln-dried) and probably won’t absorb much, should I just go with one 5 gal container?
I am thinking of using 1500 on 1 x 3 vertical grain western red cedar slats on a small shed. It is a part of a rainscreen system. The cedar slats is on top of 1/2″ battens which is on top of a moisture barrier.
The cedar has been cut to size for installation and have been outside under a tarp for 2 months. I am in Oakland, CA where the weather is mild and there’s not a lot of sun hitting the lumber.
Should I stain first or install first and wait for it to weather then brighten it and stain? If I stain after installation, I would only be able to apply it to the top, front and bottom of the cedar but not the side that faces the building because I won’t be able to get to it.
If I stain first, should I only stain the 3 sides that will get exposure?
if applied when night time temps go into the 50’s is that a problem
So, we didn’t wait cause redwood 2×6 seemed dry, we put one even( not to thick ) coat and deck is a little sticky. Anything we could do ? Thanks, I like the product.
Two weeks ago I installed a split cedar fence in northern Wisconsin, partly sunny location. All railings were heavily sanded with a 10,000 rpm angle grinder using 50 grit sanding discs, sanded smooth. There is no “original” surface remaining from when the rails were purchased. We have had several days of rain and now I have 4-5 days completely dry. Do you feel I should still let the wood age or should I be able to apply TWP-100 now before the wood start to age?
i did the did the restore-a deck cleaner (1) and brightener (2) two days ago and sanded the 7 yr old cedar deck with 80 grit. I have swept it 3 times and blew 160 Lbs of compressed Air on it 3 times too! Can I apply the TWP 100 and NOT rinse the deck?? It is going to rain in 2 days and if I rinse it, I miss my weather & time off window..
i did the did the restore-a deck cleaner (1) and brightener (2) two days ago and sanded the 7 yr old cedar deck with 80 grit. Can I apply the TWP 100 now by brush or is there a wait period??
Restore-A-Deck (Contains Both Cleaner and Brightener)
What is the rule of thumb on the wait time to stain/seal new cedar?
Fence: Western Red Cedar, 1 yr old, unstained, left to weather
Pickets are rough sawn on one side. All trim and back side of fence is smooth
I cleaned the smooth side with Cabot Wood Cleaner but now have white film on the fence which appears to be the mill glaze or graying. I stopped at this point and did not apply anything else. What can I do at this point to remove the film? Do I need to re-clean with soemthing different? I can’t stain over it the way it is currently.
Also, do I clean the rough side of the wood as well?
I am going to use black walnut on my deck and steps and paint the trim and face of the steps white. Can I paint first while waiting for the cleaning kit and stain to arrive or should I stain first then paint?
i bought western red cedar for build my new fence. Actually the wood dry in my garage since 1 month and half. Today I check with my moisture meter, and it indicate me 10%. Can I apply my stain (Pecan TWP1520) ? I’m gonna sand with sandpaper 80. Does I need to double the layer?
I installed a new entry door and i’m going to install new white oak casing around the door.
The wood will be sourced from a local millwork provider and will be
recently milled to the casing pattern we want.
However, the wood is originally kiln dried prior to cutting the casing
pattern. Our question is should we wait
4 – 12 months to apply the TWP stain or can we apply when we install the
casing? Thanks!
I put up a rough cut red cedar fence over the course of three weeks – it was all sun until the past few days. It has rained quite hard the past few days here in Seattle and the fence is now soaked. Rough cut cedar slats and upper horizontals. Pressure treated vertical posts and pressure treated lower horizontal near the ground. How long should I wait to apply the TWP 100 after we have more sunny days? Should I brighten as well since it will have been a month since I started the project?
I am having a new custom cedar garage door built and need to know. do I have it stained prior to installation (new wood) or have the door installed then let it age first? Also, it will be an insulated door should I have the wood treated on the insulation side before the install? I want to do this right from the get go.
I have replaced a number of boards (pressure treated pine) and the rest of the deck has remnants of a water based semi transparent stain. What do I have to do to prepare the deck for TWP? Would 100 or 1500 be the better choice? The lower portion of the two level deck is in the sun & that wood is pretty beat up. Any suggestions for that portion?
Thanks,
We stained our deck with TWP last summer. It was brand new wood and had aged for almost 10 months. We prepped and stained with only one coat as suggested on this site. It has been a year – is it time to restain? One coat or two this time? What do you suggest for prepping this time? Thanks, Patty
I have lightly sanded, cleaned and brightened my 14 month old pressure treated pine deck. 1. Do apply 1 coat or 2? It is part sun/part shade. Brutal Chicago winter under its belt.
2. Is Pecan the darkest of the lighter shades? I think Dark Oak and Black Walnut are too dark for me and Rustic is too red, but I’m looking for the darkest of the remaining stains.
3. When I reapply next year, do I re-stain the verticals as well as the horizontals?
4. I have rough sawn pine fence that needs staining. I was going to clean it b/c it definitely has some staining on it from my neighbors silver maple. Do I need to brighten it too, or is cleaning enough?
Thanks.
I have 1×4 Smooth T&G Cedar siding on the front of my home. I was told to follow the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association guidelines. For Natural Cedar these guidelines said to use a water repellent preservative. My painter and builder in this area recommended Thompson’s water seal water proofing wood protector. The Thompson was put on the siding prior to installation with two coats. Everything has been fine, but I am now noticing some water stains from a window weep hole. I do not understand how, with two coats, I can get a water stain. The front of the house does get his with afternoon sun, so not sure if the Sun is just breaking down the protection. Any suggestions?
I want to stain a new vertical cedar fence (12 months old the wood has weathered) I want to use TWP 1500 clear BUT it has no Uv protection.
what color will give me UV protection but be as close to natural as possible – I would actually like to let the wood weather naturally but on the other hand I want to protect it to improve the longevity of my fence – thank you!
Just finished a deck with KDAT lumber. Was told I can stain this grade of wood immediately, is this correct, or do you still recommend the 4-12 month waiting period?
I cleaned and brightened my fence last week using the Gemini Restore kit, and the weather hasn’t cooperated for actually staining the fence, and doesn’t look like it’s going to cooperate any time soon. How long do I have before I would need to clean and brighten again?
Hello, my deck was installed about a month ago. It has full sun exposure and becomes so incredibly hot that you can’t even be on the deck during high sun exposure. I have been trying to wait the recommended 4+ month time frame before applying the TWP 1500 series. However, I am already noticing discoloration in certain sections of the wood. The wood is cedar. with how hot it has been lately, is it still recommended that I wait at least 4 months? Or, does your 4+month take into account all climates and degree of sun exposure? My wood is already starting to look beat-up despite me choosing the highest quality wood available at the lumber yard.
Also, Am I correct in thinking that the “Pecan color” is NOT as gold as the “Natural” and “Honeytone” yet NOT as red as “rustic”? I’m a little color blind.
Hi,
I will apply TWP 116 Rustic stain to my cedar deck next
week! This deck is 1,600 sq ft and was built one year ago. When it was build the
contractor applied a stain from the brand Behr but right now because of the
weather or because of the stain quality looks like an old deck!
I would like to know the correct process from the experts before
applying TWP series 100! I have some questions that there are very important
for me to do it correctly!
What I am planning to do first is to sand the entire deck area
to leave it all even and to remove completely the old stain.
After sanding the entire area where I want to apply TWP 116
Rustic stain what steps or directions should I follow before applying TWP 116
Rustic Stain?
Thanks for your help,
Sincerely,
Albert G.
We had a deck completed 3 weeks ago, made out of Yellawood. We live in Missouri. Our builder suggested staining as soon as the boards began to shrink away from each other. I ordered and received TWP 1500 stain. We plan to stain this weekend, however, after reading your tips, I see you suggest waiting at least 4 months. So now I’m confused on what to do. Please advise.
I have a pressure treated lumber boat dock a little over a year old and just cleaned it using a box store deck cleaner. Do you recommend re cleaning it with Restore A Deck before using TWP 100 on it? Also since it will be a first time application for the stain does the one coat apply on a dock.
Hi, I have an old 16 X 24 cedar deck with pt railings. I had solid stain to remove so I stripped and pressure washed. This got about 90% off. The rest I’m going to sand with 60 and 80 grit. Also I found 2 16ft boards that need to be replaced as they rotted right through on the ends. I plan on using the twp 1500 stain.
If I replace the 2 boards now and sand would it be safe to stain in early Sept? Also how many coats could I put on?
Thanks
I have a PTPine covered wrap-around porch that is 7 1/2 months old and I am ready to stain. On part of the porch, hot cooking oil was spilled about 4 months ago and despite scrubbing with detergent has left a light stain. I am concerned that this will affect the staining. How should I prepare that area? I have thought of just sanding the whole porch with 80 grit, but that would be a lot of extra work (1100 sqft) and I’m not sure if that would help if the oil soaked in deep. Thanks!
We have a new deck over the base of the old deck. We need to clean the sides so that they can install vinyl latticework. The old latticework has been removed. We live in southwest VA. What do we use to clean the old wood with? You can see the marks of the old latticework. What do we stain it with? After reading we have decided to stain the new decking in the spring of 2015. New decking is YellaWood pressure treated pine. TWP 100 or 1500? Use Gemini Restore A Deck to clean the sides on the sides, then stain, then add the vinyl latticework? Thank you.
As you can see by the picture I am building a new patio cover. This is all re-saw wood using large beams and 2X6 tongue and groove with the rough side down. I want to stain the entire project. Do I need to wait if it is all rough re-sawn wood? San Diego, CA