Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
TWP Stain Tips for New wood Decks in 2024
When applying TWP Wood Stains for the first time to new wood there will need to be proper steps taken. New smooth wood or decking is not ready to be pre-stained prior to installation or stained right after installation. It is best to follow the directions of the TWP Wood Stain when it comes to applying a coating to new wood for the first time, not the lumber yard or the paint store’s as they do not understand the proper prep needed.
TWP and New Smooth Decking or Exterior Wood
It is important to understand that new smooth wood is not absorbent enough for the TWP Stains. New wood contains a higher moisture content and a “mill glaze”. Mill Glaze is a waxy film that results from the fast turning blades that cut the profile on a manufactured log. The high speed of the turning blades produces heat that draws sap and moisture out of the log. As it cools and dries, it creates a film or coating on the logs. This will hinder the TWP’s ability to penetrate into the wood grain.
Note: New Rough Sawn vertical wood/fencing can be stained right away with no wait and with no prep as it does not have mill glaze and is very absorbent. Just make sure the wood is fully dry. If Rough sawn wood has aged or oxidized (grayed) then it will need to be prepped with Gemini Restore Kit. One coat for most instances of newly installed Rough Sawn wood.
Tips for TWP and New Wood
Let the Wood Weather First
TWP wants the wood to weather and dry out for 4-12 months after installation. This will allow the moisture content to drop and the exposed wood cells will oxidize from the sun’s UV, turning slightly gray.
Prepping New Wood for TWP Stains
After letting the wood weather it is time to prep the wood. This step consists of using the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit. This kit contains both a Step 1 Wood Deck Cleaner and a Step 2 Wood Deck Brightener. The Step 1 cleaner will help remove the dirt, graying, and mill glaze from the wood while Step 2 Brightener will neutralize the cleaner and help restore the natural color.
Staining New Wood and Decking for the First Time
Even after the waiting period and the proper prepping, new smooth wood is still not as absorbent as it will be in a few years. We strongly suggest only applying 1 coat of the TWP Stains the first time. Do not over apply as the TWP may not penetrate into the wood correctly. Make sure to back wipe any excess stain that does not penetrate properly into the wood after 30 minutes. For new smooth wood, the TWP 100 Series if allowed in your state, otherwise use the TWP 1500 Series.
Maintaining TWP Stains
Apply a light maintenance coat to the flooring in 9-24 months. If just slightly dirty prep with soapy water to remove grime and reapply one light coat. If you wait 18-24 months make sure to prep again with the Gemini Restore A Deck. After the first year or two, your wood will be able to absorb more TWP stain which results in a longer stain life and protection!
TWP Pro Tip:
TWP is a penetrating wood preservative. It performs properly when it penetrates 100% into the wood. Over applying will not result in longer protection.
Have a Question? Please Ask Below.
Please read: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Hi-My deck was built with PT Pine in mid-March in Northern VA and I plan to give it its first coat of TWP 1500 in mid-August or September. The wood is still quite yellow, but drops of water absorb easily within 2 min and I plan to wait another month or two before staining.
Do you have any advice for preparing the top of my pergola? The main beams and joists will be easy enough, but the small runners (2×2 PT Pine) on top I think will be very hard to properly prepare–that is getting the cleaner/brightener on all sides of it for the right amount of time without letting it dry out, etc. How carefully do these boards need to be prepared as compared to the rest of the deck? I just imagine spraying the cleaning and brightening product all over the place and getting very little of it where it needs to be. Also, do I need to worry about the drips onto the deck before I am ready to clean/brighten the deck?
Thanks–and I look forward to any advice addressing this problem.
You should do the pergola and the deck at the same time. Just apply the prepping products on the pergola with a pump sprayer and pressure wash off. It will be fine.
Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit and apply two very light coats this time.
2 coats with a wet on wet application? if you only do one coat how much time needs to lass before another coat is added?
20-60 minutes.
I meant to ask in my original question if I was correct about the deck needing another coat or two one year after the one coat on a new deck we put on last year.
Yes that is correct.
You must remove all of the old stain first and depending on the brand and type of stain it may need to be stripped, sanded or both to get off the wood. Once removed you should apply a wood brightener to the deck and rinse well. For TWP to perform properly, all old stain should be removed first. Use the 1500.
If you want the wood to naturally gray then use the 1500 Clear. It will be protected.
Wait a month and prep first with Gemini Restore Kit to remove the mill glaze.
I had my front porch redone last February in the Chicago suburbs. It is covered with a roof and it is mostly in shade most of the day. It was done in cedar except the decking is pressure treated wood. How much longer do I need to wait to clean and brighten and stain with TWP1500? Your 4 – 12 months is a pretty wide spread – is there some way to tell when the wood is ready so I could do it this fall, or do I just assume that it will need a maintenance coat within a year regardless? Thank you.
Reply
Yes go ahead and clean and prep with the Gemini Restore Kit and apply just one light coat of the TWP 1500.
I have a 12 year old deck and i had to replace 12 boards on the deck. I had solid stan and i stripped it down to the wood in favor of a semi transparent that i plan to buy on this site. However, i had to replace 12 total boards in different areas of the deck. I dont want to wait 12 months to restain the entire deck as it is about 800sqft deck.
What can i do about the 12 boards i put down? I sanded the entire deck, used deck brighter on all the boards including the new ones.
Any advice?
Go ahead and do all but you will need to reapply another coat to the new boards in a year.
Yes you still need to wait and prep correctly. I would get some samples to test out the colors.
You can wait 2-4 weeks.
We just had a new redwood deck installed. We live in CO where the sun is very intense. Should we still observe the 4-12 months drying out time before staining with TWP? I am assuming that the Gemini Restore is to be used 1st also.
Yes you need to wait and use the Gemini Kit for the prep.
We are installing either a pressure treated or cedar deck in the next 2-3 months in Michigan which pushes us up against cooling weather and snow. The deck will receive full sun the majority of the day, should we try and stain before winter hits, or wait until spring (which can get wet here) and then clean/stain? I’d hate to have something happen to the unfinished boards over the winter, which can be harsh here.
With TWP you need to let new wood weather for 4-12 months so you should wait until Spring.
Deck 1500 sq ft
Untreated Douglas Fir, never stained
NW IL
Installed 8-9 month ago.
How much cleaner/brightener should I purchase? How much and which series of stain?
The railing is being installed in a few weeks. Is it possible to clean and stain it before installation without waiting 6-9 months? It will also be Douglas Fir. Here is the material list of the railing material. 6- 4x4x4, 9- 6x6x10, 10- 2x8x16 and 5- 2x12x16
Get two of the Gemini Restore Kits. Stain with one coat of TWP 1500 Series for IL. You will need about 10 gallons for 1 coat. You will need more stain and cleaner for the railings and the railing wood does need to season as well for 4+ months.
You can apply the kit anytime after sanding. Wait at least two dry days after using kit before applying the TWP.
Hi Albert, after sanding and before apply the 116 you should prep the deck with the Gemini Restore Kit. This is a cleaner and a wood brightener two strip process that will aid the TWP’s ability to penetrate into the wood grain better after sanding.
Thanks for your response!
Great I will buy as well the Gemini Restore Kit. After applying the cleaner and wood brightener how many days should I wait before applying the stain? And should I wait some days after sanding the cedar deck before using Gemini Restore Kit and the TWP 116 Rustic stain?
Best regards,
Albert
New cedar deck installed last month. Gets full sun. When can I clean and stain?
Please read article about new wood here: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Please read this: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Just built a new deck with kdat pine. Do i have to wait to stain it?
For kdat you should wait a couple of months and prep first with the Gemini Restore Kit. Only one coat for new wood.
I would do two light coats wet on wet for this one year old dock. If it is clean than you do not have to use the RAD cleaner.
jimct, yes Sept should be fine. Do one coat and another next Spring.
For sanding cedar with an orbital floor sander, what grit sand paper would you recommend?
60-80 grit. Be careful with orbitals as they sometimes leave swirl marks.
What sander type would you recommend for a cedar deck if orbital leaves swirls?
Belt is probably better.
Would something like this work? Not as rough as orbital. It would take a while to do a 16×24 deck with a belt. http://www6.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Floor_Sander_Square_Buff/07014A/
Thanks, Jim
Most likely will be okay.
Just finishing a deck in CA now that is covered in 2×6 Douglas Fir. The deck boards have been piled (sticked) outdoors for about 6 months and are just about finished being installed now. There are many areas will need to be sanded – primarily for shaping due to lumber inconsistencies AND we are hosting a wedding in that backyard in about 5 weeks!!! So the deck really needs to be stained within the next month.
How bad of an idea is it for me to sand, then proceed with prepping for staining in the next few weeks? Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated.
David, should not be done. Please read this: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
We are installing a pressure treated fence. I thought we should apply the sealant before the fence is installed. Once installed the back of the fence will not be accessible. Should we wait and simply not seal the back? Or, should we apply a coat without allowing the time for weathering and re-apply later?
If the wood is rough sawn as most fences are than just go ahead and pre stain.
Getting ready to stain a 12-month old deck for the first timewith twp 100. A bit confused as to having to do one coat or two coats wet-on-wet?…have already cleaned and brightened the deck. Any help would be great.
Since it is 12 months old I would suggest two light coats wet on wet for this.
Nothing will take the oil out easily and you would have to sand entire deck and spot sanding will show. There is no easy fix 🙁
We have a 12 year old pressure treated pine deck. We are partially disassembling the deck as it will be smaller when finished. The wood is being run through a planer to clean up the wood as it is really rough, with a lot of splitting, and peeling stain. Would it be OK to clean & stain the wood before rebuilding the deck or is this considered “new” wood and has to be weathered first? Thanks for your help.
Kathy, let it weather for a month or two an prep after with the Gemini Restore Kit.
We have a 13 yr-old deck: the floor is badly weathered CCA pine. I will cover it with a thick paint-sand coating after cleaning it. We has applied the wrong hard finish stain on the rough-cut cedar posts and cedar rails and balusters.
My solution: remove all rails and balusters and sand down to flat virgin cedar posts and deck skirts. I plan on using TWP 1502 on the posts, skirting, new cedar rails and then use aluminum balusters.
Questions: how smooth should I take the cedar posts. I used 80 grit pads on a electronic random orbital sander to smooth the posts. Lots of time and dust, but the wood is beautiful.
however, you can see the sanders tool marks. Will they show thru the 1502?
I have wetted the surfaces to bring up wood hairs and lightly hand pad sanded w/150 grit after the wood dried.
Will that surface be too smooth?
Second, how long must I wait on the new cedar rails if I wet them – allow to dry, wet them -allow to dry four cycles?
I would like this all finished within three weeks time. Am I pushing it too hard?
New wood actually needs to season for 4-12 months. 60-80 grit is what we suggest for sanding. If you can see sanding marks when wet with water than you will see them when stained. 150 is too smooth for the TWP to penetrate.
Tom, probably would blend better.
One add’l question: does the TWP contain poly? I am hoping to end up with a finish that is closer to “glossy” than “flat” or “dull”. So sub-question: is it ok to apply a polyurethane over TWP if the normal finish is “flat” with TWP?
Tom, no TWP is not a poly nor will it creat a shine. You cannot apply a poly on top and the use of a poly or gloss finish on exterior wood is a very bad idea. It will peel, blister, and create a huge mess to fix.
Thanks for answers to both questions. Now, one final Q before I order samples and prep kit and get to work: I am using a trim paint plus primer on the wood railings and only applying TWP to the floor and steps. Should I still use the prep kit on the railings to remove mill haze or will that not matter since I am painting them white?
Tom, it would not hurt to apply to railings.
I have a few mill stampings on this PTPine wood. I plan on using the darkest of your 100 colors, Dark Walnut, so the question is: should I try and sand out the stampings first? See image of one place I have sanded, which has significantly lightened the pine. And see other image of the stampings. Will the stain cover the stampings? What would you do?
Tom, TWP is not a covering stain. There is not an easy solution for this now. Cleaners will not remove them. If you sand them off the stain will be lighter in those areas. In hindsight the best way to deal with these marks is to sand them right after install than let wood season for the 4-12 months.
Hhmmm, ok thanks for the response. I’d turn the boards over but there’ll be joist marks. I’ll deal with it. Also, the covered deck butts up against our living room floor, which is a dark walnut. Looking at the avail colors for both 1500 and 100, it looks like I need to go with Black Walnut 1500. Would you agree?
My PTPine deck has been in place, in Georgia, for seven months thru the winter and wet season and now I am ready to put TWP 100 on it. The largest part of it is covered so has has minimal sun or water exposure. The smaller portion has had about 4 hrs of sun per day and the rain/winter. There are no cracks, gray streaks, mildew or dirt anywhere. So the question is: do I still need to go thru the two-step Gemini clean and brightening process with this deck before I apply the one coat of 100?
Tom, yes you need to prep accordingly.
Pat, yes that would be the correct order for this. Use the 100 Series.
Darrin, if rough sawn you do not need to wait.
Acidex, is the wood on the fence smooth or rough? Most fence wood is rough and can be stained right away. Your process will help some if the wood is smooth but not enough. Best to install, weather and wait, prep with Gemini Restore Kit, and stain. Cedartone, Honeytone or Natural colors.
Thank you for the reply. Once I install it I will not have access to the back side. Do I need to treat it with something on the back side?
No, only the wood that is exposed.
I’m building a couple of overhead (garage type) doors for my cabinet shop out of yellow cypress . It has been kiln dried. I’m sanding with 150 grit paper which should remove the mill glaze. I’ve been trying to decide what finish to use and think TWP 1500 sounds like the best and most durable.
Since the wood is kiln dried, do I still need to let it weather? Also, should the backside of the doors be finished with TWP or something else or left unfinished? The backside obviously will not be exposed to the elements, so it won’t be weathered at all.
Roger, since this wood is mostly vertical (when closed) I would suggest this. Clean and prep with the Gemini Restore Kit. This will help remove sand dust and open the grain. You over sanded your wood and you need it more porous. I would put one light coat on both sides. This year and add another light coat to the exposed side in a year or two or as needed. Do the back side so it looks good.
Thanks!
Not sure on the composite. Might work but best to test first. Please read this about new wood: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Thanks, as for the stain… Which would be better for the ever changing weather, 1500 or 100 series stain on cedar?
JB, use the 1500.
KP, if rough go ahead and stain. Two light coats wet on wet application is best. Do not apply over 95 degrees.
Hi, I just installed a cedar fence and would like to stain with your 1500 series stain. I would prefer to stain within the next two weeks to avoid the greying of the wood. Is it impossible to get a good finish on the fence if I don’t wait 4-12 months? Also, all of your products reference their use on decks, but it is it correct to say that all of the information you provide is the same when staining a fence? Thanks!
Thomas, if the fence is rough sawn wood than you can stain right away without waiting,
Billi, should be good to go now. Just one coat the first time.
Scott, I would leave it alone for now and apply a light coat at the 1 year mark.
Waited about 8 months after cedar deck installation and used TWP 1501 (cedartone). I’m new to staining and I used a sprayer yesterday. This morning the coverage does not look uniform (likely due to my lack of experience). I’ll check it again tonight and tomorrow, but I don’t see it improving with time. Short of stripping/restoring, is there anything I can do to improve the look or am I stuck with it until I use Gemini and then reapply in a year or two?
Mat, you may be able to apply a very light coat of stain to the floor to even our the color. You have to be careful to not over apply and possibly wipe off excess stain that does not dry within a few hours.
After I apply a fresh coat of TWP 1500 and it comes time to redo the stain after a few years. After a thorough cleaning can I reapply the same TWP 1500 color stain on top of the existing stain on my deck or is it necessary to strip the existing stain and start fresh? Also, if I can reapply and I purchase excess stain will it keep for a few years if sealed tightly and kept in a cool place?
Greg, as long as you apply a maintenance coat before the TWP goes to full failure, you will just need to clean and not strip. Hard to guarantee that the stain will last with an opened container. If there is no evaporation then it will probably be okay.
Tcox, you can use either for your state. 1500 has a little more pigment and can sometimes give a little better uv protection.
Installing a new pergola (arbor) in a few weeks. It’s made of rough cut cedar. When would you recommend staining? Ideally, I’d prefer to prestain as it will be 12′ tall and difficult to stain once erected. Planning to use 1500.
Thanks
Jason, if it is rough wood then you can stain before install. Only 1 coat on new wood.
Tcox,
1. Try sanding with 60 grit but no higher and not too much pressure. 2. Try the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper and pressure washing. Brighten when done.
3. Yes but best not to wait more the 2 weeks
4. Not sure what you mean about not taking them off deck
5. Look at the TWP 1500 Series
6. Cedartone
7. You can do this but it does not always work as there may be permanent stains where the joists touched the bottom of the baords.
8. Yes
Why the 1500 series versus the 100?
I purchased a new cypress porch swing and outdoor furniture that will have some exposure to weathering (sunlight, rain, etc.). I would like to apply a stain to obtain a darker color than the natural cypress while still preserving the look of the wood grain (darkest possible), and if needed, coating with something to protect from the elements (South Louisiana). Which of your products would you recommend to complete this task? And any suggestions or recommendations for application would be greatly appreciated.
Prep the wood to remove the mill glaze with the Gemini Restore Kit. Stain with the TWP 1503 Dark Oak if looking for a dark color.
Just erected a new timber frame pavilion over my brick patio. The structure is all rough cut hemlock that has been cut for more than 4 months, but was just erected recently. Ceiling is tongue and groove yellow pine (not pressure treated) and the roof will be cedar shakes. I’m planning to treat with TWP 1500 Natural. Should timing or treatment of the three materials differ? I was planning to treat the structural timbers fairly soon, perhaps waiting longer for the ceiling and shingles.
Scott, the rough cut timber and cedar shake shingles can be done right away. The ceiling probably should season for a couple of months then treated with the Restore A Deck Brightener to help remove the mill glaze.
1. Yes you can transfer to metal gallon cans. More then likely you will need almost off of the stain for 750 sq. feet.
2. Try to not get the TWP into water. It will create an oily look on top of the water.
Thanks!
Welcome!
I’m adding a deck that will be about 16′ above grade and supported by 6×6 pressure treated posts. I’d like to plant climbing vines at the base of the posts as soon as possible. By waiting 4-12 months for the wood to weather I will be forgoing the planting and growing season for the vines. I could treat and stain the posts with the vines growing but I think I’d risk harming if not killing the vines. Since the vines will wrap around the posts and in time block out much of the sun, would it be OK to either not treat and stain the posts or treat and stain them shortly after they’re erected (and before planting the vines) rather than wait the 4-12 months for weathering?
Tom, since it is vertical and will be covered with vines, go ahead and stain without waiting. Only one coat is needed. Do the rest of the exposed upper areas after waiting for 4+ months.
John, you should be good to go. Did you prep to remove the mill glaze?
I built my con heart redwood deck last October (2013) at my house in Los Angeles. I have been letting it weather over the winter and it has been very dry and warm all winter due to extreme drought conditions. In fact, I think it rained on my deck only once briefly over the past 4 months, so I think the wood is drying out rather quickly. Can I apply TWP 1500 now or should I wait a bit longer?
Also, My deck is roughly 420 square feet with complex railings that include 6×6 posts. How many gallons of stain, cleaner and brightener should I buy for my first application?
WadeB, you should be able to go now. Only 1 coat the first time. One of the Gemini Restore Kits. Need a total sq. footage including all rails and posts to give an amount for the stain.
How does one measure the square footage of the railings? I am guessing it would be height X width for just one side to compensate for the wider spacing between stiles? So if I had 60 ft of railing that is 3 feet high it would be 180 sq ft worth of stain but enough to cover both sides of my railing? Or is there a more accurate method? Thanks.
WadeB, for railings do linear footage x the height. This is the easiest way to determine.
The dimensions of my rails and posts are as follows: 60 feet of railings, including 11 6X6 posts, 100 1X2 and 40 1X4 ballusters sandwiched between double 2X4 rails top and bottom, topped off with a 2X8 top rail. Rail is 3 ft high. Deck floor is approx 420 sq feet. Attaching a pic of rail detail hope it works…
WadeB, what is the total sq. footage when all added together?
Railings: 3′ X 60′ = 180′
Floor: 35′ X 12′ = 420′
Total: = 600 square feet
This counts the linear dimensions of my rail only once. Is the coverage estimate enough to cover both sides of my railing?
WadeB, this will work. For two coats “wet on wet” you would need 5-6 gallons. For one coat, 3-4 gallons.
6 month old deck. rough cedar and deck planks. which is better TWP 100 or TWP 200 for stain and protectant.?
K, the 100 Series is for decking and that is what you would want. 200 Series id for cedar shakes and shingles.