Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
TWP Stain Tips for New wood Decks in 2024
When applying TWP Wood Stains for the first time to new wood there will need to be proper steps taken. New smooth wood or decking is not ready to be pre-stained prior to installation or stained right after installation. It is best to follow the directions of the TWP Wood Stain when it comes to applying a coating to new wood for the first time, not the lumber yard or the paint store’s as they do not understand the proper prep needed.
TWP and New Smooth Decking or Exterior Wood
It is important to understand that new smooth wood is not absorbent enough for the TWP Stains. New wood contains a higher moisture content and a “mill glaze”. Mill Glaze is a waxy film that results from the fast turning blades that cut the profile on a manufactured log. The high speed of the turning blades produces heat that draws sap and moisture out of the log. As it cools and dries, it creates a film or coating on the logs. This will hinder the TWP’s ability to penetrate into the wood grain.
Note: New Rough Sawn vertical wood/fencing can be stained right away with no wait and with no prep as it does not have mill glaze and is very absorbent. Just make sure the wood is fully dry. If Rough sawn wood has aged or oxidized (grayed) then it will need to be prepped with Gemini Restore Kit. One coat for most instances of newly installed Rough Sawn wood.
Tips for TWP and New Wood
Let the Wood Weather First
TWP wants the wood to weather and dry out for 4-12 months after installation. This will allow the moisture content to drop and the exposed wood cells will oxidize from the sun’s UV, turning slightly gray.
Prepping New Wood for TWP Stains
After letting the wood weather it is time to prep the wood. This step consists of using the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit. This kit contains both a Step 1 Wood Deck Cleaner and a Step 2 Wood Deck Brightener. The Step 1 cleaner will help remove the dirt, graying, and mill glaze from the wood while Step 2 Brightener will neutralize the cleaner and help restore the natural color.
Staining New Wood and Decking for the First Time
Even after the waiting period and the proper prepping, new smooth wood is still not as absorbent as it will be in a few years. We strongly suggest only applying 1 coat of the TWP Stains the first time. Do not over apply as the TWP may not penetrate into the wood correctly. Make sure to back wipe any excess stain that does not penetrate properly into the wood after 30 minutes. For new smooth wood, the TWP 100 Series if allowed in your state, otherwise use the TWP 1500 Series.
Maintaining TWP Stains
Apply a light maintenance coat to the flooring in 9-24 months. If just slightly dirty prep with soapy water to remove grime and reapply one light coat. If you wait 18-24 months make sure to prep again with the Gemini Restore A Deck. After the first year or two, your wood will be able to absorb more TWP stain which results in a longer stain life and protection!
TWP Pro Tip:
TWP is a penetrating wood preservative. It performs properly when it penetrates 100% into the wood. Over applying will not result in longer protection.
Have a Question? Please Ask Below.
cleaned and brightened “new” pressured wood { 9 mos aged} but experiencing large white blotches on deck. Presser washed many times and looks good wet. But when it dries, ouch. stained some wood {where the furniture will hide it and looks terrible. I’m thinking I screwed up somewhere, what should I do? Thanks in advance.
Post pics.
please see attatched
Try renting a floor buffer and buff with a floor pad. See this link: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
I need to seal my Cumaru *Brazilian hardwood) deck. It is approximately 20×50 feet. What TWP product do you suggest and how many gallons do you think I will need? Thanks
Try the TWP 100 or 1500 Series. About 4-5 gallons for one coat on your 100 sq foot hardwood deck.
Hello – I’ll be cleaning and brightening about 200′ of picket fence this weekend. Do I need to wait at all between cleaning & brightening, or can I apply the brightener immediately after pressure-washing off the cleaner? The directions seem like immediate is OK, just want to make sure.
The Brighener goes on right after cleaning, while the wood is wet. Rinse the wood first after the cleaning.
I had to install a new cedar deck in two batches. Batch 1 has been up for 5 months (Dec-Apr); Batch 2 has just been installed. Not been sanded / nothing applied to it yet.
Both batches are contiguous so I’d really like the color to come out the same when I stain.
From messages below I understand I should let Batch 2 weather for a few months.
Q: would it make sense to sand the whole thing now and then let it weather over the summer?
Q: thinking of TWP100 Natural but would you recommend something darker to make it more uniform?
Live in Austin, TX
No, do not sand. Darker colors will not make it blend any better.
Thanks. So just let Batch 2 bake in the sun for a few months and then prep with cleaner/ brightener the whole thing at once?
Correct.
Following from last question: If I need to let the new boards weather before treating, is there any problem with leaving them in a sunny part of the yard — to weather faster — before installing them? How will I know if they’ve weathered enough to absorb the stain?
Sunny areas will not make them weather faster. No way to speed up the process.
I have a 140sf mahogany deck at the main entrance of our house. We sanded/stained it about 3 years ago with TWP 1516 (Rustic), but it was not applied well — parts were tacky for a couple of weeks, etc.–so the shadiest areas still have quite a bit of stain, while the main walkway is back to gray. It gets heavy wear, lots of snow shoveling in Boston area. So I think it’s best to now strip and brighten (or maybe just sand the whole thing) and re-stain. A few questions:
1. Yes. Install, weather, and then prep the new wood. Cleaner and brightener for new wood. Strip and brighten the stained wood. One coat of stain for all woods for hardwood decking.
2. Yes.
3. Probably not. Most likely has gone bad.
I have a newer pressure treated new wood deck. It was installed summer 2021 so it has been out for 8-9 months. The deck surface is 5/4 treated pine. One the help page it says to use TWP100 on new smooth wood. Would this still be considered new wood? Basically, should I be using TWP100 this first time or TWP1500?
Where do you live?
Northern MI, about 3.5 north of the Ohio border. So it has had a decent winter worth of snow, plus half a summer of sun,
Use the 100 Series after prep with Gemini Restore Kit.
I sanded my cedar deck 2 years(2020) ago with 60-80 grit sand paper, used the restore cleaner and brighter products before topping with twp 100 series cedar tone stain. My deck at that was over 10 years old. Obtained beautify results. In September 2021 had storm damage to deck due to fallen tree. Will need to replace 10-15 boards. Should I wait 4, 6, months or more before finishing with cleaner, brightener and top coat finish. Also, I take it, it would be best to refinish the entire deck at that time using the 3 step process.
Wait for new wood to weather, then prep and stain all.
hello, we just got new cider fence installed, about 190 linear feet. Can TWP stain be applied to the fence? I used the TWP stain for the deck and I had great results. However, with the fence, I don’t want to deal with cleaning/ brightening /conditioning. Which product would you recommend for a newly installed fence? The fence is in Colorado, Denver Metro area, humidity here is about 30% or less. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Yes, TWP can be applied to a fence. If the wood is smooth, then you have to weather and prep as the article explains. If rough sawn, you can stain now as long as the wood is dry and clean.
I am interested in purchasing product from you to preserve the fence on my property. It is a total of 102 feet of six-foot shadowbox fence with rough sawn lumber (Total square feet = 1224). It was installed in July of last year and has started graying a little. I want to use a color that looks most “natural”–either the Cedar or Honeytone samples on your site look most like want I would prefer.
Please advise.
Honeytoneis the lightest tint but colors will vary based on wood type and age so there is no way to say for certain if the color will be what you like without testing samples: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
How long can I wait to apply twp 1500 series after I clean my new cured pressure treated deck? The weather is changing and won’t be able to apply stain for a week.
Stain within 2 weeks of prep for best results.
Good Morning,
II have recently installed cedar shakes to clad a fireplace and built a horizontal-style fence with cedar siding. I want to protect both but do not want to change the color or use a polyurethane sealer. I am thinking of using you series 1500 clear stain. I also noted you have cedartone but worry that it will make it look not natural. What product would you recommend?
Clear will not offer UV protection from graying. It must be tinted to provide UV protection.
Should I apply just 1 coat of semi solid stain on dried pressure treated pine? This is for a dock in Alabama. Thanks
1-2 coats. Depends on how porous the wood is.
Does new wood need to wait 4 months if it has been kiln dried?
Kiln-dried is 1-2 months and then prep.
New home, have cypress shutters and a cypress interior ceiling and beam. Does all of this need to be cleaned and/ or left for months before we can stain it?
Weathered and prep as the article explains is correct.
Purchased rough cut cedar from Lowes. Have no idea the history of when it was cut. We have planed the wood and noticed some pieces were wet. How long should we wait before using twp stain?
Since you planed it you will have to wait the 4+ months and prep.
We allowed our new pressure treated deck to weather then properly cleaned and brightened then stained (2 coats wet on wet) with TWP 100 Honeytone. That was 16 month ago and now we would like to apply a maintenance coat to the horizontal areas. It is a very large deck and we are in a time crunch due to temperatures and imited days off work. Do we need to use the Gemini restore kit again or can we just gently clean using the pressure washer and mild soap? Also, if you do recommend the restore kit again, it seems like it would be difficult to keep it off the vertical rails which we weren’t planning to reapply stain to at this time. Will the cleaner or brightener fade or discolor the vertical wood if some accidentally gets on it?
Use the Gemini Kit for prep when reapplying. You may have to touch up the rails as needed.
Should I apply 2 coats wet on wet again?
One coat should be enough.
I know you’ve probably answered this :, if it rains after brightening but before staining (say a day or two after) do you have to rebrighten?
No.
New rough sawn 8×8 cedar porch column installed two weeks ago. Got them from a local saw mill, they were cut June 1, and have been setting in my shed unil installed. Which TWP series would you recommend? Any prep needed? Singe coat?
If rough sawn you can stain now and no prep as long as they are clean. Use the 1500 Series.
https://www.twpstain.com/wood-and-deck-stains/twp-wood-stains/twp-1500-series
I have a new deck. We let it weather for approximately 12 months. I applied the first stage of the cleaner and then used a pressure washer to clean. Now, I have fuzzy stuff on the deck. Should I sand it down before using the second step brightener ? If so, what grit and should I do it by hand or use some version of a power tool like an orbital sander?
If you want to remove the fuzzies then do this prior to using the brightener. 60-80 grit paper. You can use a hand sander or a floor buffer.
Hi, I am applying twp 1500 to kiln dried Doug fir car decking to be used as a deck ceiling. The wood is at 12% moisture. I have sanded the surface and now I am applying 2 coats, wet on wet, letting sit overnight and then wiping off any excess. Is this correct? I do not want to add another coat later or redo.
Also I am using Doug fir posts,beams and rafters, much more green and higher moisture content. I will sand all surfaces and would like to coat them before I construct the very large deck that will be exposed to weather, but I also don’t want a product failure.
No, you are not doing this correctly for the kiln-dried wood.
https://twpstainhelp.com/kdat-and-twp-wait-period-for-new-wood/
You cannot pre-stain. Install, weather, prep, and one coat.
New rough sawn pressure treated southern pine fence boards, how long should i let dry prior to stain
As the above article explains, you do not have to wait if rough sawn wood.
Would like to stain my 3 year old ‘new’ never been colored stained or treated, with the TWP 100 Clear stain. Just want to give the new cedar wood a sealant protective coat. I understand that the clear coat does not give the UV protection that the color stains do.
Being a new, seasoned cedar deck, I also read in your comments that it may only need one coat vs two ‘wet on wet’ coats. Deck is only 10 feet by 14 feet with the usual vertical posts and approx. 3 foot high railings around it – no stairs to it.
Any comments about the use of clear coat TWP 100 vs using a colored cedar stain appreciated.
Live in central midwest.
Clear will gray in months. If you are okay with this, then use the Clear, if not, use a tinted color. Two coats for your deck.
Waited 4 months to stain my cypress (not pressure treated posts) with Twp transparent stain. They have developed black mold and watermarks from leaving untreated. Will the Gemini restore kit remove this? I can’t use a pressure washer on the back because it’s too close to the house to angle far enough away to not damage wood. Also I have stainable
Wood filler in the nail holes /will that stain Ok ?
Yes, the Gemini Kit will remove this. Never use wood filler. It will not stain to blend.
Can I use the Gemini kit without using a pressure washer?
It is much easier to use a pressure washer. If you do not, you will need to scrub and rinse well and it will take much longer.
Does a new marine grade wood dock need to weather and dry out before applying stain
Yes.
I’m renovating my redwood deck. Instead of just using a deck cleaner I’m actually planing down the boards about 1/4″ revealing the wood as looking new. Is this still condidered “new” boards and do I still new them to set for over 4 months before staining? I need to re seal within a few weeks. I can’t wait that long before snow and rain come. Any suggestions? Thanks
Yes. Weather and then prep. Do in Spring.
Kind of worthless then. Who wants to wait 6 months, allow the wood to possibly warp just to use your product. So what do you say about allowing rain, snow to set on it?
Worthless? Sorry if you do not understand how exterior penetrating stains work but all brands suggest waiting and prep for new wood. Rain and snow will not harm it and weathering helps the stain to absorb better.
I have untreated cedar porch columns that I want to stain and protect. How should I prep the surface to remove natural dark streaks where the wood has absorbed water?
Clean and brighten with the Gemini Restore Kit.
I stained my new deck this Spring (6 months ago) with cedartone 101 and immediately saw white residue at all of the knots. Now its also developing black mold on the surface in some areas. This is disappointing as I was expecting it to look nice for at least a season (I would then reapply a light coat next year as you suggest). I haven’t even put furniture on it yet. What is the white stuff and why is it looking so bad? It was a lot or work to prep and stain 600 sqft!
The white is sap leeching from your knots and the black is dirt from your environment. Neither are a result of the TWP stain.
I have a newly built dock on a lake. There’s a 1-month scheduled drawdown so home owners can work on docks and sea walls. Is it okay to use TWP 100 if there’s a 3-week+ drying time before water partially submerges the pilings (I want those to match the rest of the dock)? Or, should I use TWP 100 for above water and 1500 for where it may be submerged?
Do not use TWP anywhere where it will be submerged. It will not work and will wash off.
I’m getting ready to purchase and install new cedar shingle siding. I’ve read that I should “dip” the shingles before install. Which TWP product would be best for this, and do you advise it? If so how long should they be dipped for and is one dip sufficient as I see some dip them twice?
That is incorrect. Install, weather, prep, and stain after on the exposed side only.
Thank You!
1) TWP 100 semi transparent oil based stain can be applied when temperatures are between 50 and 90 degrees, YES?
2) If I am applying here in MI during high humidity (temps in 80s or 90s, do I allow longer drying time for the first coat. First coat has to be “dry to the touch’ for applying second coat?
3) Do not apply stain in direct sunlight?
4) How do I know if my pressured treated pine deck, never stained before, sanded with 60-80 grit paper to remove mill glaze, will “take” a second coat? What do I look for after applying the first coat?
Thank you very much.
1. Yes.
2. Humidity does not matter.
3. Avoid if possible.
4. Just do two light coats applied wet on wet unless the wood is less than 12 months. Just one coat then.
Thank you.
RE: The “wet on wet” approach:
1) How many minutes after first coat to apply the second coat?
2) Do you determine if it can take a second coat merely by the fact that first coat is dry after so many minutes?
3) If I run out of time and cannot do a second coat, could I wait until 9-12 months to do second coat-and if I do what would be the prep work-cleaner and brightner and then second coat? OR, cleaning with any deck cleaner.
4) Should I forego applying stain if I am not going to get 48 hours of drying time? Could I get by with 24 hours of drying time?
5) What to do if it rains after deck has only dried for 24 hours–will I see water stains? Can I do anything at that point?
6) What is the LOWEST temperature this stain can be applied and have adequate process to dry? I ask because right now in MI our temps are getting down to 50 at night.
7) I notice, too, that at night, the “dew” comes out and water drops are coming down at night on to 7 boards of mine pine-treated deck from the bottom of the gutters that’s part roof overhang. What’s likely to happen if this happens at night to one or two coats of stain trying to dry? What can I do to prevent this?
1. 20-60.
2. Apply two light coats as we suggested prior.
3. Yes. Use Gemini Kit for prep.
4. 24 hours is more than enough drying.
5. You will be fine.
6. 50
7. Nothing.
My brand new shed is made from kiln-dried white pine. It’s been up a week and rained on four times. I would like to use semi-transparent stain. Should I use the pre-treatment? I live in Ontario, Canada.
You still have to weather and prep as the article explains. Prep with Gemini Restore Kit and stain with TWP 200 Series for Canada.
Hi, I’m going with TWP 100, either the redwood or the rustic color. 342 SF treated pine deck. Never stained. UV damage on some panels. Live in MI. Some mill glaze on some panels already. Confirming process: 1) Gemini cleaner. 2) After drying sand with 80 grit paper to remove current mill glaze fuzzies and any new mill glaze fuzzies that result from cleaner. 3) Apply gemini brighter. 4) Wait 24 hours then apply one coat and then second coat with 60 minutes of first coat. 5) Pray that it doesn’t rain for at least 24 hours. TWO ADDITIONAL QUESTIONS: A-If I will get more mill glaze, will it show up after cleaner and before brigtner or after cleaner? C-Or should I sand BEFORE cleaner and brightner? D-If I cannot get second coat. Do I apply second coat in a year and if so do I have to use gemini cleaner and brightner again to do second coat in a year? Or E_ just lightly clean deck with a regular cleaner and apply second coat? SEE ATTACHED PICS OF CURRENT DECK.
48 hours after prep. Everything else is correct. You always have to prep when recoating with the Gemini Kit.
Really appreciate the help. If my deck is dry after 48 hours of doing cleaner and brightner but it then rains, do I start the clock of waiting another 48 hours for deck to dry before doing first coat? Also if rain is a certainty after 48 hours drying time from prep, would it help if I laid down plastic over deck to keep it dry during rain, and then assuming no water got on deck with plastic and stain? LASTLY, MINIMUM time stain needs to dry after applying 1st coat and or two coats? THANK YOU.
Yes on the rain. Do not cover with plastic. See here about wet on wet application: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
After applying the TWP 1500 series to Hemlock garage doors, do you recommend a sealer? Or is a sealer not necessary with TWP 1500 series?
You can never apply a sealer or top coat over the TWP as it will peel.
Thanks. I do want to confirm though, a “maintenance” coat is recommended after 9 months or so on new wood. And that can be applied over the existing TWP application.
9-18 months. Clean and brighten for prep.
Question about your response-You say use cleaner and brightner for prep to do a second coat in 9-24 months. Won’t the cleaner and brightener REMOVE, or greatly weaken the first coat that was applied 9-24 months previously?
May remove a little bit but that is okay as that is the correct way to prep whenever you are recoating.
Thanks. Really appreciate the help as a big newbie.
Previous TWP advice has recommended I sand off mill glaze/fuzzies already on my never been stained pressure treated pine deck I already have AFTER applying the gemini cleaner and BEFORE applying the gemini brightner.
1) Curious though why not apply cleaner and brightner and then sand?
2) In applying the first coat to my 400 SF deck (that will be sanded with 60 OR 80 grit sandpaper to remove the mill glaze already present on some planks before the cleaner/brigtner applied) do I do 2-4 boards at a time….apply first coat…then if wood has soaked in first coat within 30-60 minutes go back and apply second coat to the 2-4 planks before moving on?
3) Would you advise to just do first coat and wait a year to apply second coat because I did do some sanding on my deck to remove the mill glaze?
1. Sanding closes the pores of the wood. Brightener and rinsing well will help to open the pores up.
2. Do all 400 sq feet, it will take less than an hour, and then reapply another coat.
3. You can do this if you like.
Thanks. So to confirm:
1) wet deck with power washer
2) apply cleaner
3) rinse with power washer (40 degree arc tip on wand, hold 12 inches away so as to not destroy deck wood?)
4) Let deck dry to the touch
5 Sand with either 60 OR 80 grit paper
6) apply brightner and rinse with power washer
7) Let deck dry 48 hours after applying brightner.
8) Apply two coats
9 Ensure you have no rain for 48 hours after applying either first or second coat?
***If I see it may rain after deck has only been drying for 24 hours do I cover deck in plastic?
Do not cover in plastic. Everything else is good.
OK. So what to do if deck dries for only 24 hours and then it rains?
It will be fine.
I just finished sanding my railings/posts on my 4 year old deck with 60 grit and looking to get them cleaned, brightened and stained before moving into the floor boards since it is such a large deck. The wood looks near new after sanding. Can I go ahead and clean/brighten/stain when I’m ready or should I let it sit over the winter first?
When you are ready is okay.
Does this apply to kiln-dried lumber as well? I am replacing steps and handrails (some covered, some not) and all the cedar has been kiln dried.
Kiln dried is 1-2 months of weathering and then same prep.
We had our deck enlarged, a roof put over 1/2 of it and the rails and all deck boards all replaced in the first week of June this year. The roof over half of the deck solved the gypsy moth caterpillar feces issue this spring and early summer for that half, but the rest of the deck was badly stained by caterpillar feces. Our plan was to try to use Restore-a Deck in early fall to clean the entire deck and get rid of the fecal stains from the uncovered half so that we can stain it before it gets covered with caterpillar feces next spring. However, the deck boards beneath the covered half of our deck still bead up water that’s placed on them very nicely, but the uncovered poop-stained boards don’t bead up water at this time indicating that there’s a difference between them in their readiness for stain. We live in Northern Michigan and if we wait until the weather is good enough to stain next year the new fecal stains will double or triple the stains we have now before we can clean and stain. , making cleaning the deck boards even more difficult. If we clean and stain the boards beneath the roof now, they may not absorb the stain very well leading to a color discrepancy. I have enclosed a photo taken about 3 minutes after pouring some water on a deck board beneath the covered part of out deck. Any advice on the best way to remedy our dilemma would be greatly appreciated.
Best to prep and stain all in the Spring before the moths come or after July when they stop. It will clean up if after.
Thanks for your reply! It’s usually difficult to string together enough dry days in early spring before the the caterpillars become active to be able to get it done. If not we’ll do it July/August after the caterpillars are finished staining the uncovered part of our deck. Will our unopened 5 gallon can of TWP stain still be ok for use next year? It is stored in our always cool basement.
Yes, it will be fine until you are ready.
Thank You!
I have a cedar decking that was originally rough cut, then planed smooth. I installed 3 years ago. The following fall I put twp 1500 on it. It did not absorb well as anticipated, but has been 24 months since first stain. I have power washed dirt off, but now what do you recommend for this 2nd time around staining? Prep and stain? Thanks
Prep with this and then apply the TWP 1500: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
I used the last step of prep #2 rinsed and waiting the 48 hrs. We’ve had very light rain the last two nights just enough to get the surface wet. Do I need to restart the 48 hour clock after the little bit of rainfall.
Yes.
I am sanding the outdoor sections of my deck to 80 grit and have 1600 square feet of deck including verticals railings and steps. Part of the deck is covered and screened in and does not need sanding. How many gallons of stain do I need and do I apply wet on wet?
For 1600 Sq feet you will need about 15 gallons for two coats.
I am installing 3 cedar posts on my front porch. The posts came from trees felled on the property and were sawn and kiln-tried at a local mill for a month.I would consider them to be rough sawn, but I can see some saw blade marks that I can sand away with a light touch and 80 grit sandpaper. Since these were kiln dried and have been minimally processed, do I still need to let them weather and then restore them? Also, the posts are not clear…there are several knot holes and a few are deep. Do you have a suggesting for filling these before sealing…or how to handle these areas?
If rough sawn cur then you do not have to weather and prep. Wood fillers will not work and will not stain to blend so just leave as is.
Here is a picture of a section where there is new and old siding
Hello,
We had a garage fire last winter. We have new rough (not smooth)cedar siding around the garage area that has been replaced and the rest of the existing cedar siding on the house appears to have a semi solid stain applied from previous owner. We’ve lived here 15 years and have not done anything to the existing cedar siding. Two sides of the house will be stained, to include both new and existing cedar siding. From reading others questions, you recommend sanding to remove older stain but we can’t as the siding is a rough cedar. The restoration contractor pressure washed the existing older siding and wants to apply stain over this as it now sits. Will we have issues with stain penetration? What would you recommend we do?
You cannot apply TWP over this current stain without removing it first and that looks like it will require sanding or media blasting as a stripper will most likely not remove this semi-solid coating.
Thank you, very much, for your quick response.
Can you apply 1500 series over 100 series? I’m considering staining a new cedar fence with TWP 103, dark oak. If we wind up wanting something darker, next year can I use 1504, dark walnut? Thanks.
As long as you prep first with the Gemini Restore Kit, you can.
I just finished building a new deck with kiln dried southern pine in Central Virginia- since most of the moisture is out of the wood, can I apply TWS 100 promptly? Can I use an airless ( grago 550) to apply?
Hi,
No, you cannot stain right away. With kiln-dried wood, wait 1-2 months and then prep with the Gemini Kit. If you apply the TWP with a sprayer, you will need to back wipe and drips or runs to ensure an even application.
Thanks! Much appreciate the prompt response!
How long should you wait before applying TWP to freshly rough cut pine poles and beams?
If rough sawn cut, you can stain right away.
I just received the 2 sample stains (Pecan & Rustic) to help choose a color while our deck is under construction. Is it advisable to clean and brighten the sample piece of wood before applying the stains? If my concern is only to compare the two stain colors and not wood preservation, can I expect the sample stains on un-prepped wood to be representative of the stain on the finished deck’s prepped wood in a couple of months?
Yes, you should apply it to prepped wood.
Thanks!
HI, It’s been two years since my deck was installed. Treated Pine. I waited a year, and was poised to apply Cabot. I applied the deck cleaner. Became ill and never applied immediately the wood brighter from cabot. Did not use power washer, so I suspect the caustic cleaner left on and two winters took their tool. Picture shows my deck now; as you see, some planks have the UV damage. Question. After applying the wood cleaner, many of the planks suffered “furring” which I understand is from “over oxidation.” Confirming, should 1) I sand off these fuzzies anywhere I seem them AFTER I apply the TWP deck cleaner and wood brighter? If yes, what weight sandpaper to use (fine? medium? 2) Should I use a power washer — set on the lowest setting (least powerful) to wash off the TWWP cleaner and brightener? I ask that last question in light of the fact that my garden hose spigot set on strongest setting did not really seem to wash off the cabot deck cleaner. Thanks.
Pressure wash with the Gemini Cleaner first at 1500 psi. Let dry and buff or sand off any furring to all floors with 60-80 grit. Gemini Brightener last.
Thanks. Question shouldn’t I wait until AFTER I use Gemini Brightener, since I assume the brightener will also cause furring?
The Brightener does not cause furring.
My fence is installed one month ago. 1 week after, the neighbor whom I share the fence with
” sealed” his side of the fence with an oil -base clear coat and water his plants next to the fence profusely. Few days later, I notice dark water marks ( rennin?)on the bottom of my fence which did not go away after the wood is dry, mild sanding and wood brightener.
How do I remove this stain effectively before staining my side of the fence? Should I wait a few months before staining knowing the neighbor will continue watering onto the fence and probably cause more dark stains or should I stain now?
Another question: I tried new stain color on my redwood fence, now I cannot remove it with commercial stain removal liquid. Can I fully remove fresh stain on newly installed redwood fence? If yes, how?
You have to clean and brighen for prep on new wood and that should help to remove the water stains if they are surface stains and not internal stains. As for removing the stain you applied, that would depend on the brand and type of stain that was used. Pics would help as well.
Thanks for the quick response. Picture here shows the semi transparent water proofing stain&sealer from BEHR premium and semi-solid deck &siding stain from CABOT ( oil stain). I used Wood stripper &wood brighter From Cabot and could not remove the fresh stain colors. At the bottom you can see the stain ( water vs tannin?) that shows up after neighbor watered the fence
I ordered test colors from TWP but have not yet tried on the fence worrying that I may not be able to remove the color completely if I don’t like the color.
You will need to sand off the Behr and Cabot stains.
Also, do I need to do a second coat on the entire deck, including the pergola, or just the floor and stairs?
Horizontals are okay.