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Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
We are here to help you with your TWP exterior deck or wood restoration project for 2024!
TWP is an advanced wood preservative/protectant registered by the EPA. Performance and longevity can vary though depending on the wood type, how the wood is prepped, the age of wood, and how the TWP is applied. We want everyone who has decided to use TWP 100, 1500, or 200 Series to have the best possible results.
TWP Stain Tips and Help
When asking questions please give us some information about your wood restoration project:
- What structure is your wood? Examples would be: Deck, Wood Siding, Fence, etc
- What species is the wood? Examples: Treated Pine, Cedar, Redwood, Ipe, etc
- Is the wood new or older than 1 year?
- Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Please specify brand name and type of stain used: Examples: Solid stain, Semi-Transparent Stain, etc.
- Any additional info that would be useful
Once you supply us with the information, we will able to give you advice as to how to prep your wood and any needed instructions for the TWP application.
Please ask your questions in the comment area.
Thanks
Your suggestion for new build (Mar 2023) first finish. 750sq ft +/-, WFP Western Forest Products TRUESTYLE – Yellow Cedar. Looking for Water, UV, and Mildew resistance. Thanks in advance. Kind regards,
See here about new wood:
https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Use the TWP 1500 Series.
Good morning:
I am prepping my new wood for staining (it has been in place for 12 months). Here were my steps using all of TWP products:
1) cleaned and powerwashed the gray
2) sanded with 80 grit sand paper
3) brightened
Then….it rained.
After the rain, there appears to be a decent amount of mildew that has appeared in some areas with very small amounts embedded in the wood in other areas. Attaching pictures.
I have been reading in some places to use household bleach to treat the mildew. In other forums as well as here, I have been reading to use oxygen bleach. I cannot find any of the forums that outlined what I should do next to address to my particular problem. So I want to confirm here:
1) use a 3:1 (3 parts water:1 part household bleach)
2) let sit for 15 minutes
3) rinse
4) apply more TWP brightener
Otherwise, can you correct my assumptions here?
Thank you!
That looks like rust, not mildew. Did you sand with steel wool or use any other metal products.
There are some rust stains from the screws, but the mildew portions are more or less not connected to those. I am attaching other pictures that may be more representative of what I am talking about. I did not sand with any metal products, I think the rust is from the deck screw coating that came off when I sanded. I am replacing all of those screws where the coating came off before I clean again. I’m more worried about the spots.
Looks like rust that was carried over from the screws when you sanded. Not mildew. Wood Brightener will remove it.
Unless there were some small metal particles that got transferred from the screws to the wood when I sanded (?). See my comment /reply pictures as well. TY!
We have a deck that has 2 previews applications of TWP1500 on it. Normally I would apply another refresh coat in late September, after the temps had cooled (but still above 50° at night) and before significant leaf fall had started. This years unusually high temperatures are causing the leaves to drop early. How can I minimize the effect this might have on stain application? If I wait for all the leaves to drop, I fear it will get to sub-50° temps over night. Otherwise, I am afraid of leaves falling on the stain before it has a chance to full dry. Thoughts?
The leaves will not harm the stain if they fall on it while the stain is drying.
Best way to remove leaves that fall between coats?
Leaf blower.
I have 101 cedar tone on deck now. Going to clean with your RAD product. The color of 101 is cedar tone, it’s too orange. I have an unopened 5 gallon pale of the cedar tone I would like to apply. Can I mix your pecan color with it to darken it a bit and if so should I mix 50/50 or just a couple gallons?
You can mix colors of the same series to any ratio you like.
I have a Redwood deck, that was installed about 3.5 years ago. It was originally stained with a semi transparent water based stain that did not last long. Started pealing off after 6 months and was 95% gone are 18months so deck was pretty weathered in and seasoned. It is installed on a south west facing part of house and live in the North Cal Bay Area Peninsula so pretty mild climate (low 40s winter, mid 80’s summer highs). I decided to use the TWP1500 1511 cal redwood stain, and have about 350-400sqft area with deck, siding, handrails and table. I prepped with a cleaner and brightener and sanded it down hard, due to cupping and dog nail marks with 60 grit, (no need to strip any old stain due to it mostly being gone and the sanding. Left it 4 days to dry out.
1st photo is after cleaning/brightening,
2nd after sanding,
3rd is 48 hours post application.
I applied two coats wet on wet, 45mins to 60mins apart with a wagner sprayer and back brushed it with a 7″pad to push the stain in and remove any excess or spread around. I was very careful about not pooling as per guide and not having puddles. I bought a 5 gall and prob have just over half left as i was planning on using the extra on a fence. I think i have over applied the stain though as after 48 hours drying it still looks very “wet” it is dry but has that varnish look about it.
questions:
what is the expected dry time to get to the Matt finish?
when can i start walking on it?
is there any steps to be taken to help dry out or remove excess or is it just time?
any other tips would be appreciated
what is the expected dry time to get to the Matt finish? 12-24 hours. With sanded wood you are only suppoed to apply 1 coat but you should be okay once fully dried and cured.
when can i start walking on it? Once fully dried and cured. Not sticky.
is there any steps to be taken to help dry out or remove excess or is it just time? Time unless you have shinny spots. https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-is-spotty-or-shiny/
any other tips would be appreciated. Enter the contest:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-stain-2023-contest-win-cash
I have an expanded deck that is partially stained with oil based stain. The original section is stained and the addition is not. Is there a product that I could use that would cover the old stain and create a one color deck?
You must remove the old stain when switching stain brands. For prep help, post some pics.
Hi not sure if you can see this, I took your advice to lighten up the Black Walnut 1500 and mixed it with clear. It did not seem to go on uniformly and is blotchy going from lighter to darker, lighter to darker every inch. Can we mix these colors and have a uniform color? or did I do something wrong? Thx Eric
The “blotchy” is part of your wood grain and is not a result of mixing the colors together.
HI, just finished power washing and staining my Redwood Deck. I put two coats ofTWP1501 on my 700 sq. ft area using 7 gallons of Stain. I’m noticing that in some areas, the stain is peeling. Why is this happening and what should I do to correct the problem? Attached are pictures of the deck and peeling that has started to appear. Thanks in advance for your help.
It looks like you did not prep correctly and/or over applied. TWP stains are designed to fully soak into the wood grain and if not prepped correctly and or over applied, it will dry on top of the wood, creating issues like this.
I believed that I probably over-applied. Not all areas of the deck are showing this problem. What do you recommend doing in those areas?
It is not possible spot remove and apply and have it blend. You could just try to remove some of the excess stain with rags and paint thinner. Saturate any oily rags in water and lay flat to dry when done.
Can I apply an un-colored oil-based sealant on my deck over a 2+ year application of TWP Semi-Solid Colored Sealant ?
Even if it’s not recommended without first stripping what’s there, will it adhere and hopefully penetrate, at least down into the cracks, on this really dry 2+ year application of TWP?
The Deck is 2.5 year old Cedar wood which is seriously splitting. I’m in Dallas Texas with 100+ degree temps in July/August and deck is in full sun so it appears to be drying out even though the color is still good although much lighter.
I really need to get some drying protection applied to the deck and hoping I don’t have to strip it first.
You cannot apply a sealer over the TWP. You need to prep correctly and reapply the TWP again.
OK, I expected that but hoped to save some steps. Thanks so much for quick reply.
Greetings. I would like to buy a gallon of TWP 200 wood stain in Cedar Gold colour. I see it is $44.99. CDN. I live in Calgary AB Canada. Could I please get a promo code? Also what does it cost to ship to Calgary? Thx.
We do not have any promo codes currently. All pricing is USD. For shipping cost, add to cart and enter your full shipping address. Thanks!
Is TWP1500 good for outdoor teak furniture?
Yes, just one coat after prep.
Weather has not been cooperating and it’s now been a little over 2 weeks since used your cleaner and brightener. Do I need to reapply before staining with your 1500 product?
Redo with the Brightener and rinse well with water.
I have 5 gallons of twp 100 for a deck. I wanted to get 2 extra gallons for backup. The only thing available to ship to me is the 1500. Can they be mixed together?
No, we do not suggest it.
Hello TWP! I recently applied a coat of TWP100 (clear) to my deck’s 10 year cedar seating area. It had been previously treated (about 8 years ago) with Penofin stain. I sanded and cleaned it early in the summer, researched and decided on TWP100 over the course of an extremely dry spell. Unfortunately, two days after I applied it, the rain decided to return! It seems to me that water has displaced the stain in these areas, resulting in a kind of faint “leopard print” pattern. My inclination is to let it dry out (it should be dry over the next week or so) and see what happens. But if this doesn’t resolve on its own, what should I do? Lightly sand? Buff it out? Steel wool? Or reapply stain? Thanks so much for any advice you can give!
Richard in Seattle
The TWP had not fully cured prior to the rain. It most likely will need to be sanded off and recoated. Never use steel wool on a deck. It will leave metal in the wood that will turn into black spots when it rusts from the rain.
Where is the closest retailer in Redmond, WA?
We sell online only as a TWP dealer.
https://www.twpstain.com/wood-and-deck-stains/twp-wood-stains
Thanks
A couple of questions: 1) We stripped, cleaned & brightened our pine deck about 3 weeks ago. We have TWP200 ready but waiting for 48hours of dry weather. Should we pressure wash again before letting it dry? 2) How long should we stay off the deck after staining with TWP200? Thank you 🙂
1. Brighten and pressure wash rinse since it has been over 3 weeks.
2. 2-3 days or untill fully cured and dry.
Can the TWP semi solid be applied over TWP 100 which was original to the deck? IF so, which color in the semi-solid most closely resembles the cedar in the TWP 100?
Strip and brighten for prep if switching:
https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
There is not a matching color and since colors vary based on wood age and porosity, you would have to test samples to see what color would work for you on your wood.
My deck is about 40 years old and I currently cannot replace it. I asked for advice and TWP 1500 was recommended which I purchased last week. I had cleaned and sanded my deck (60 grit). It hasn’t been treated for about 25 years and has splintering. I did not know I needed to use the Gemini restore a deck after I sanded to open the pores so I didn’t purchase it. Is that a necessary step at this point? Thank you
Yes, it will help the stain to penetrate into the wood better.
What is your recommendation for fixing spot bleed through to other-neighbor side of fence? Used TWP 100 Dark Oak. Stripper? with booster additive? Also, any tips on preventing bleed-through on remaining portion we need to complete. Thanks for your assistance.
You cannot prevent bleed through to the opposite side of a fence. When doing a fence, always best to do both sides at the same time. As far as removal, if you strip, the stripper will bleedd through to the opposite side and remove some of your newly applied stain.
I prepped and stained my main deck. I prepped my stairs and landing but did not stain them. This was approximately 6 weeks ago. Do I need to repeat the cleaning and brightening process on the stairs and landing again?
Yes, repeat the prep process.
Hi, we stained our fence with TWP 205 earlier this year (first time it’s been stained). Stain looks great, but we’ve decided that we’d prefer a darker color. Are we able to just apply a new darker color stain? Would we need to stick with the 200 series?
You would have to strip and start over.
https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Hello, I have a 2 year old (12′ x 20′) PT pine wood porch with a roof that I would like to stain/seal in a natural base…..it has never been stained or sealed. Late September (11 months ago) last year I added the vertical PT skirting to the underside of the porch. I will be sealing the outside of the screened in porch (as well as the floor) . How do you recommend I prep the outside and inside floor of the porch and which sealing product to use? Also, should I wait until next year to seal the skirting since it is 11 months old?
Many thanks,
You can prep and stain all wood now. Use this for prep: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Use the TWP 1500 Series.
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series
Long winded question. Deck is over 5 years old and never sealed…. There are areas of black mold that the Gemini 2 step did not help much at all. Now pressure washing I’d 98% working but still can see small dots of the black spots. I don’t care esthetically as long as will not grow under future stain. 1) can I kill it with vinegar, borax, oxyclean,…sufficiently to stain over? 2) are any of the twp products better than another at protecting (not from us but mold)? 3) can a mildicide additive be used as well to a stain product or is necessary?
Post some pics. There are already midlewcides in the TWP stains.
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b1g49fLgBbReCvEdmd8OpprQ
This is pre pressure wash
Need after pics.
Is TWP paintable with an oil paint?
That is more of a questions for the paint as if it will work over a wood deck stain like TWP.
What is the difference between the 100 series and the 1500 series?
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-stain-comparison-reviews-ratings
what is the difference in twp 100 vs. twp solid state stain
Hi David, TWP does not come in a solid stain. Do you mean the semi-solid colors?
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-semi-solid-pro-series
Need to restain a Mennonite built board/batten barn. Was stained one time 15 years ago using Cabot oil base semi transparent. Would like to use an airless paint sprayer. I know about wet on wet having used 1500 many times on our decks here, so I can do sections at a time to allow for that application. The wood is rough cut pine, (possibly hemlock). It’s bone dry and will suck up stain very easily.
So two questions:
1) Can we do this with an airless? We have several fan sizes, will probably go with widest.
2) Really hoping not to have to do much prep. It’s a big barn! And it’s not been treated for many years.
Will probably use a semi-transparent with some tint. Can I get away with this?
1. Yes, you can airless spray.
2. You have to prep and you have to remove the Cabot first. Post pics for advice on the prep.
what is the best for deck 100 plus degree high humidity wiyj -20 winters
TWP 1500 Series.
I have a cedar deck, built in 2021, never been stained. I would like a dark, semi transparent stain. What do you recommend?
Thank you,
Diana
Prep with this:
https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Stain with TWP 1500 Series:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp1500-5gallon-detail
I’m getting ready to stain with your 1500 product and used your 2-step cleaner and brighter but am still seeing some black spots, presumably mold. What would recommend using to get rid of this?
Post some pics.
Here’s a photo after using your cleaner and brighter. It’s 22 year old treated pine that was last stained with your 1500 series stain about 3 or 4 years
It does not look like you cleaned it properly/deep enough. Did you use a pressure washer after applying the cleaner? What stain brand is currently on the wood? If not TWP, it will need to be removed fully.
Yes, I used a pressure washer and it was stained last with TWP 1500. Is it ok to use your washer and brightener a second time? Is it okay to use household bleach on the mold and if so should it be diluted with water?
Actually we would strip and brighten for this scenario. It will remove the embedded dirt/mildew and give you the best results when reapplying.
https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Yes Ready Seal Goof Proof Semi-TransparentI live in Washington State assuming I could use Semi Transparent rustic 100 series would be best. Do I need all these TWP stripper additives to get my deck ready for TWP stain or can I just go with R-A-D Stripper/Brightener Kit?Thanks
Scott
No need for the additives to remove the Ready Seal.
My deck was treated with TWP 120 Pecan in September of 2018. I would like to retreat the deck with a darker color of TWP (perhaps the dark oak color). The deck is still in pretty good shape, but no longer beads up when it rains (photo attached).
I’m wondering what kind of preparation is required before I reapply the TWP 100 series? I’m also wondering if I should continue to use the TWP 100 series, or if I should consider switching to the TWP Semi-Solid Stain Pro-Series? If I switch would you suggest a different preparation prior to applying the semi-solid stain?
Any guidance is appreciated.
Thank you,
Strip and brigthen for prep when switching colors or series. Very easy: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
I have cedar log siding which was installed on our new cabin last fall. We have waited to stain and after power washing we are ready with TWP 100. Some areas show slight graying yet, do we need to remove before starting to stain?
Yes, you have to prep. Use this kit while pressure washing.
https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
What will this prep do to a copper color metal roof? Do I need to rinse immediately?
Not sure so best to cover it while working with plastic.
I cleaned and brightened my cedar deck with your products in mid June 2023. Results were great the wood is a bleached blond color. I’ve not been able to top coat due to work being done on the house. It looks like maybe this week and next week will be able to topcoat. Should I clean and brighten again the deck before top coating since about 2 months have transpired since my initial treatment in June?
Redo the prep since it has been more than 2 weeks.
Recently purchased twp220-5 from you guys. The pecan color is not quite as dark as I would like but the next darker was way too dark. Can I darken the pecan slightly by just adding some good quality oil based stain? Is there a better way? Also as a side comment, why does manufacturer not include a built in spout on the 5gallon containers. I’m sure the the few extra buck it would costs the consumer would be willing to pay. Seems like breaking the seal multiple times is just asking for failure for any future storage. Thanks
The only way to darken the Pecan would be to add a gallon of a darker TWP color. It is not possible to just add pigment. Spouts create issues during shipping as they can leak.
I tried to post on my other comment but it didn’t go through. These are the pics. Cabin is sanded but has developed mold spots since (been working on it 2 months, replacing caulking now before staining. Using Big Stretch Clear caulk). I have the stripper kit, but I’m thinking maybe the cleaner kit is what I need now. I have other buildings to do also so could use the stripper on those. Will the cleaner take off the mold spots? Will the stripper take off the mold spots? Which do you suggest I use? I will sand off the black nail spots again before I stain.
Looks like rust, not mold. You can strip and brighen all but if you use the stripper, use at 1/2 strength.
I used 30 second cleaner on my log sided home. I believe the quarter log siding is pine. I scrubbed it and much of the finish came off. I rinsed well but the next day it was white and so I tried to power wash that off and ended up with some firring and still the white chalky stuff on there. So I sanded it with an orbital sander 60 grit and a multi tool sander for the tight spots.
I see the caulking is failing so now I am replacing all of that on windows and the log sided cabin corners. I purchased the twp 100 stain and the stripper brightener kit. But now I may just need cleaner kit??? Mold spots have developed as this is taking me a couple months now. I bought the stripper thinking that just in case there was any stain left in the nooks and crannies but I pretty much have sanded that all off.
Will the gemini cleaner brightner be better now? The house siding is 22 years old. It had various other stains before but I think it is all off. Just some mold spots have appeared now and the nails have weeped black.
Question is: should I dab each nail with clear caulk after I sand off the black? What about the mold spots? Will the stripper be the best solution as I already have it and will it take off the mold and black nail weeping spots? Should I order the gemini cleaner brightner and use that instead? Will that take off the mold spots and the nail weeping black spots? Should I put a dab of clear caulk on the nail heads that are weeping before or after the stain? Please Please advise! I have worked so hard on all of this and I really want to get it right . Sandy
Post some pics in the comments for prep tips. Do no use caulk or any filler over nails, the TWP will not stain to blend. The black around the nails is rust. Brighteners may remove it but it will come back when it gets wet unless the nails are replaced. There is no other way to fix this issue.
I am replacing the caulk with Big Stretch clear. It says it is stainable. I hope it is stainable
It will not stain to blend with exterior stain like TWP.
I need to stain an addition to my D log cabin. I’m told the stain on the cabin is cedar, can you, from this picture tell me which product I need to buy, and possibly which specific cedar color my cabin was originally stained
You have a filming varnish type coating. TWP stainswill not work over this. Actually no other penetrating stain will. It would have to be removed fully and that would consist of media/corn cob blasting.
It seems as though the prevailing thought is to apply two coats, wet on wet.
Did a small section today. There are some areas on boards that turn out a little shiny while that same board also has areas that have a matte finish.
That presents a problem with absorption of the second coat, it seems.
It’s a 3 year old redwood deck which has been properly stripped and brightened with RAD products with sanding also (60-80 grit).
What to do in that case?
Thank you.
One coat as more is not always better.
On the section I completed, should I gently go over the shiny areas with a mineral spirit soaked rag, or let it be?
Always appreciate your help.
Leave it be.
Thanks. That area is looking much better this morning.
Another question… there has been a slight amount of dew forming in the morning. Days then warm to 80-90.
Will that dew cause a problem on freshly stained redwood deck? Probably a span of 10-12 hours between applying stain and formation of morning dew.
TWP 1502.
Thanks.
No issues.
I replaced deck boards on a 20 year old deck about ten years ago. The wood is pressure treated pine. I’ve replaced some rotten decking, but much of the raining boards have cracks and checks and some of the boards have cupped a bit.
The decks gets a lot of sun much of the day and I live in Southeastern Virginia that’s gets lots of humidity over spring and summer and occasional freezing in the winter.
I’ve stained it in the past with Olympic semi transparent stain from Lowes. Trying to decide if the deck is too far gone for stain. I’ve heard great things about TWP stains from friends.
I’m planning on replacing the deck completely in 5-8 years, but am hoping I can keep what’s there until that time.
Can I use the TWP semi solid stain on this deck, or should I pack it in and just use a a good acrylic paint since I plan on replacing in a few years. I’ve included some pics.
Once you remove the rest of the old stain (strip and or sand) then you can use the TWP semi-solid stains. The first picture looks okay to stain but the second picture is not ready.
If we purchase a 5 gallon pail of TWP200, will the remainder store well to use after 2 years for recoating?
No. See here: https://twpstainhelp.com/shelf-life-of-twp/
Somehow a previous question to sale must have gotten neglected so I’ll ask again here. I am redoing our deck but with a grey veranda composite deck board. Since it only comes in two colors we are going with the grey so I will stain the railing pickets in Cape Cod Grey with the TWP 100. To avoid a monochromatic look I am leaning towards the Thunderstorm, Charcoal or Foghorn in the Semi Solid stain, probably the Thunderstorm for the railings themselves. Will that give me the protection I need here in TN along with an acceptable and lasting look
TKS
Yes, that would work well for this.
Would you say, foghorn and thunderstorm fall into the grey family? From your color chart it appears they do but with monitor variables I want to be sure
John
Hard to say if they will lean toward gray or black as the final color will also vary based on the wood type and the age of the wood.
16 year old Western Red Cedar for the posts and 2 year old Red Cedar for the railings and pickets
You would need to test samples to determine the color on your wood.
THANKS for all the help
Welcome!
Hello. I am a contractor. My client wanted to know if there is a stain that smell less. They have TWP #1501. The plan is to re-stain the deck in Sept. They leave their windows open a lot and the is an issue for them. Thoughts? Thank you
Sorry but no, it is not possible to have an odorless stain.
Do you guys have or know of an indoor stain that matches the TWP #103 Dark Oak? I assume this stain and all of your exterior stains are not conducive to indoor use where there will be a sealer, correct?
Sorry but we do not know of a matching indoor stain. TWP stains cannot be top coted for indoor use.
What is the difference between the 100 and 1500 series of stain? Which one lasts longer?
They last the same. Difference is the VOC compliance for certain states. The 100 can only be used on 35 states while the 1500 can be used in all 50.
Do you sell hul larger than 5 gallon
We do not.
I have a treated pine deck approximately 15 years old. I bought the house used. it had been recently stained with what I believe was Cabot semitransparent stain about 5 years ago. I recently used RAD stripper, and then the brightener, power washing in between. Then using a pump sprayer applied TWP 1500 Rustic stain. I back brushed it. One and a half coats. Admittedly the decking is not in great shape but replacing it now is cost prohibited. What did I do wrong, or is it the decking itself?
You did nothing wrong and it looks good in the picture.
How often is reapplication required?
For a deck, every 2-3 years. On vertical wood, every 3-5 years.
can i use twp 1500 over 1 year old twp 100. I want to use the dark walnut and it is not availble in twp 100
After using this kit for prep: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Today I sprayed the cedar shake roof on my house with the 1500 product. Because I live in WY, we get these freak rain storms that pop up randomly and are gone ten minutes later. Well, 3 hours after I finished spraying, we got a good downpour. Do I have anything to worry about as far as the stain curing goes? The substrate was completely dry and the stain took to it well and all shiny spots were gone before the rain came. Thanks!
It should be fine.