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Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
We are here to help you with your TWP exterior deck or wood restoration project for 2024!
TWP is an advanced wood preservative/protectant registered by the EPA. Performance and longevity can vary though depending on the wood type, how the wood is prepped, the age of wood, and how the TWP is applied. We want everyone who has decided to use TWP 100, 1500, or 200 Series to have the best possible results.
TWP Stain Tips and Help
When asking questions please give us some information about your wood restoration project:
- What structure is your wood? Examples would be: Deck, Wood Siding, Fence, etc
- What species is the wood? Examples: Treated Pine, Cedar, Redwood, Ipe, etc
- Is the wood new or older than 1 year?
- Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Please specify brand name and type of stain used: Examples: Solid stain, Semi-Transparent Stain, etc.
- Any additional info that would be useful
Once you supply us with the information, we will able to give you advice as to how to prep your wood and any needed instructions for the TWP application.
Please ask your questions in the comment area.
Thanks
Hello, I have about 3 1/2 gallons of TWP 102.5 and 2 gallons of TWP 102PRO. Can these two be combined to reapply to my deck
As long as they have not gone bad since the 5-gallon is opened, yes.
The shelf life of an opened pail is 12 months.
New construction, pressure treated boards, weathered over 1 year. I have cleaned and brightened and am ready to stain. I am doing a solid stain (white) for the balusters, but the decking and top of the railing will be the semi-transparent TWP1500 (dark oak). If I were doing all one color, I’d start at the top of the railing and work my way down. Since I’m using both solid and semi-transparent, my thinking is start with the semi and finish with the solid – the solid can be applied over the semi, but not vice-versa. This would allow a faster application of the semi, since I would not need to mind drips or overrun, whereas if I start with the solid and miss cleaning up any drips, I would need to strip before applying the semi.
So my question: can the solid be applied over the semi-transparent? How long should I let the semi-transparent dry before applying the solid?
Hello,
That would be more of a question for the maker of the solid stain as if it will work over the TWP.
i have a lean-to porch with a tin roof. There are pine boards to support the roof and the rest is normal decking with 1 railing the length of the porch. I have cleaned and brightened and then a week of off and on rain. I covered the horizontal surfaces and am hoping after this week rain will be done. I figure to do the roof studs first, leaving everything recovered and dry to catch any drips. Will one coat of stain be enough for the under- roof or shall I just do the 2 coats? Thanks for your help!
Is this brand new wood? You cannot stain yet if it is. See here: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
No, 3 yrs old. I was showing you the style of the porch.
You will need the two coats.
Ok, I figured I might as well suck it up and put 2 coats on the roof and definitely 2 on the rest! Thanks!
I have an older Trex Composite Deck. I saw your article about using Semi-Solid Pro Series on Composite Decks. Should this work on the first version of Trex decking? What preparation is needed?
Just make sure the composite is clean and dry.
Would like color samples sent to me on the stain and the preservative address 6150 Unity Rd. PeeblesOhio 45660
You can order here: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
I have a swimming pool deck that I have been using TWP 100 natural cedar on every year. Deck is treated pine. If I change stain this year to 103 Dark Oak, will it come out the dark oak color. We have a new raised deck we are going to use 103 on
Strip and brighten for prep and you are okay: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
We just installed a new japanese cedar (kiln dried) fence. We would like to seal it and protect it from graying. We live 1 1/2 miles from the beach in California. Can someone recommend the products we should use? We would like to keep it close to the natural cedar color. TIA
You would need the TWP 1500 Series for CA. Honeytone is the lightest tint with UV protection: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series
Thank you. Would there be a store local where I could obtain samples of the stain colors on cedar? I live in San Diego. Thank you.
We sell online: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
I am in the process of removing old stain and previous coatings from the pine logs of my log home. I am applying your RAD stripper and power wash it off and then follow with the brightener per the instructions. It is slow and tedious but does a great job of removing the old stain/coatings. I intend to apply your TWP 101 Cedartone stain back on the logs (I live in Louisiana). I thought about applying a borate solution to the logs prior to applying the TWP 101 Cedartone stain. What are your thoughts or comments regarding applying the borate solution? Thank you.
As long as the surface is porous after then you can use the TWP.
How many years in between re-staining requirements if you follow the 2 coat system. Also, what kind of sprayer is preferred. I am doing a cedar privacy fence for reference.
Thanks
2-3 years is normal for most cases on a deck, twice as long on a vertical fence. Use a pump sprayer:
https://www.twpstain.com/wood-and-deck-stains/application-tools/chapin-sprayers
I purchased a 5 gallon bucket of #1503 a few days ago. I think I’ll use it on my decks instead of my home. I’ve had second thoughts about transitioning from the Flood CWF Cedartone as the soffit is going to be difficult to strip. I plan to leave it as is. I’m concerned about having a sharp contrast between the #1503 and the soffit. I’m seeking a more brownish and less red look. So I’m considering #’s 1501 – 1511 -1516. It’s difficult to ascertain from the photos submitted by your clients what my end result will be. I’d better get some samples but of these three (or another) which do you recommend? Thanks a bunch! Paul
Samples are here: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
We just stained our covered porch floor with TWP1500 Rustc and had a horrible result regardless how well we prepped. Our floor is made of redwood cedar boards. The porch was built with the house 20 years ago.
We stripped the wood first, completely, using the Behr stain stripper, and then let it dry about six weeks while we replaced the porch frame wood.
Then we sanded any areas of the floor where the stripper hadn’t removed all the stain or the pressure washer left too rough. In the end we ended up sanding the entire floor because we wanted it uniform. We also had a lot of cracks and holes to fill. We made our own wood filler with the floor’s sanding powder the hand sanders collected and glue. When we ran out of Elmer’s wood glue, we used Gorilla wood glue. We made sure to sand off any glue that was on the face of the wood and not just in a crack or hole. Mostly. (The areas that still had surface glue didn’t stain well, as expected, so are lighter and shinier. However there werent that many areas like that and that’s not what we are upset about.)
Once sanding was complete, we scrubbed clean the deck really well using Oxiclean, to also attack any mold spores that might still be present. Then while still wet we immediately used Restore-a-Deck brightener to restore the pH of the wood. Once that dried about 6 hours, we sprayed Wet and Forget on the surface and underneath the boards (raised porch so we can go under it.) We really wanted to prevent future mold and mildew as best we could and according to Wet and Forget’s site, using Wet and Forget before staining is supposed to prolong the life of the stain.
Our deck floor dried 3-4 days before we began to stain. My husband applied the stain using a Shur-Line Tear Resistant Deck Stain Applicator Pad. We used this applicator 14 years ago without issue, (we can’t remember if it was a latex water based stain or oil based,) and we didnt even prepare the surface well at all but it turned out gorgeous. Since we were basically rebuilding the entire porch this time with all new wood, except for the floor, we wanted to make sure all our time and effort yielded a professional looking job. That’s why we researched so much to find the absolute best products and best advice. My husband complained that he had to quickly apply the second coat once three entire boards were done before it dried since he otherwise wouldn’t be able to reach all the boards to do a second coat without walking on the wet stain. So he did the full length of three boards then applied the second coat, then did the next three, etc. I thought he was doing a fabulous and professional job.
Once it started to dry, dark grey cloudy hazy splotches appeared all over the place. It looks so awful! It does not look at all like it should given the tedious prep we did.
I have before and after pictures that I am attaching. The before pictures were taken after we cleaned and used brightener on the floor. It was the next morning so it wasn’t completely dry yet and there are spots in the picture where the wood is darker because of still being wet. There is also a closeup of the prepped wood. We didn’t stain until three days after this picture. It did not rain at all in between or since we stained. All areas of the boards were completely dry before staining. The after picture shows how awful it looks. We stained 24 hours before those pictures were taken. So it’s only had one day to dry. And he did not put it on too thick because he knew he couldn’t let it puddle, so he had to do two thin coats. But our problem is not a sheen or glossy one that would mean we need more time to dry, or because of rain, etc. Our problem is all the smokey grey splotches. What makes those foggy grey dull splotches everywhere??
After everything we have done to be so careful and thorough and how long it took us, the thought of having to sand it off and do it all over again along with the cost of another gallon of this stuff makes us angry. If it can turn out this bad in spite of how well we did the prep, then no DIYer can do this using TWP stain. TWP must either have a faulty batch, or be so finicky that you can’t even sneeze around it without it causing a problem. Like I said before, the last time we stained it we didn’t know what we were doing and only sanded a little bit before applying it, and it was gorgeous. This time we followed all the advice all over TWP’s site and ended up with this. Please help.
The areas that are duller is the correct way it is supposed to look since TWP is a penetrating stain that is not supposed to leave as shine. The shiny areas are incorrect and this happened due to over application and it has not fully cured. This is not a TWP issue but an issue with applying too much stain to the point that the wood is unable to have the TWP fully soak in. Give it another week or so and see if it dulls down and cures.
See this for more help: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-is-spotty-or-shiny/
We will give it a few days to cure, but I’m confused about, “areas that are duller is the correct way it’s supposed to look.” No, those areas are an entirely different color than the one we chose, Rustic. Thats what has me upset. The surrounding color outside the dull grey is the correct color and matches your advertised Rustic. I love that color. I have no problem with a “matte” finish at all, but those smokey areas actually change the color to some kind of hazy grey as if water were poured on it and left to dry, or like bleached it out. If the whole floor were grey like that I’d be upset that the color wasn’t as advertised.
Additionally, your instructions say if a second coat is needed to apply while the first coat is still wet. How do you propose your customers do this on a floor without walking on the wet stain and marring it? That’s why he did the three boards at a time method.
Perhaps we can continue this over the phone as a traditional customer service call?
Final wood color varies based on the wood type, age of the wood, and prep. The areas that are dull are how it is supposed to look on your wood type, age, etc. once it fully soaks into the wood. It is how your wood is taking the stain, not the stain itself that determines the final color. This is explained on the website pages.
You can walk on wet stained wood to apply the second coat. See this for tips on wet on wet application: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
Thank you for that link. It is good to know for future applications.
But I’m not convinced of your reasoning for the foggy hazy grey spots. We know well how this floor takes stain having seen it twice before. The first time professionally and not a grey speck anywhere. Same with our second refinish that we did without “proper prep” and this problem did not occur. Looking closely at my pictures it is very obvious where the stain was applied lightly and those areas are not grey or shiny, but a fabulous rustic color. As a matter of fact, most of the foggy hazy areas occur where the stain looks heavier. But a light coat does not yield hazy on this wood but a warm vivid color. It was prepped properly and restored to new wood condition as my before pictures show.
Something else is reacting with the stain in these spots, and it is also of interest that it happens primarily around the knots in the wood.
Knots are always lighter in color as the wood is much denser around knots. It is not a “reaction” with the stain. All this is happening due to over application and they way your wood is accepting the stain.
I know you’re convinced we over applied the stain, but we didn’t. So I called our local paint shop JC Licht, and had them analyze our problem.
You are correct, it is not the stain. But it also is not because we put too heavy of a coat on.
Their explanation seems much more logical to me. One of two things would make a white hazy finish (I called it grey) First and the most likely cause for us is: even though we let the wood dry for 4 days, it may not have been long enough. With the amount of water the wood was exposed to and scrubbing it down, rinsing well, using a brightener, and rinsing well again, then using Wet and Forget without rinsing … chances are there was still some moisture coming out of the wood in those spots. So it’s similar to staining right after it rained or a day after washing, or having it rain on the applied stain in the first 12-24 hours.
Or, second: when my husband did the three boards at a time application, it did not let the first layer dry long enough (30 minutes) before starting the second coat. So even a very thin coat was applied, it was too soon and can create this kind of problem because of the moisture in the first coat not having enough time to absorb and still sitting on the wood.
Both of these explanations make more sense to us given how we did it, and I wanted to reply so if others have this problem or scenario they will know to let the wood dry out longer than 4 days before staining, and to let the first coat dry 30 minutes at least before putting any second coat on. It will still be wet for the wet-on-wet application, but not so wet that it creates this kind of reaction.
Having the wood damp internally would give the same result as over application. Either way, the stain could not absorb into the wood as we explained.
Hi. Some TWP 200 Stain dripped on some Belgard pavers (not sealed). Do you have a recommendation on how to remove it?
Try a graffiti remover cleaner and pressure washing.
Do you have a list of companies that use TWP that would help me remove the SuperDeck semi-transparent oil-based stain and replace with TWP? I know parts of my deck will need to be sanded to remove the SuperDeck, and perhaps in some areas we can make use of the RAD stain stripper. My deck is gabled and very tall, so I cannot reach all areas myself without scaffolding. I am in the Atlanta-area, so if you have a list of contractors, I would really appreciate it.
Sorry, we do not have a list of contractors.
Not sure if these pictures appeared with my question below. Which series is this ? I need to purchase an additional gallon.
TWP 200 Series: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-200-series-1-gallon
Which series is this stain? This was used by our log cabin restoration company and I need to purchase an additional gallon.
I’m trying to get the dirt and grime off my wood deck. I used cedartone 1501 wet on wet in Sept 2019 and the water still beads off wood very well, but I do have some fade in certain sun soaked areas and lots of dirt and grime on decking.
Looking for best way to clean my deck. Thanks! Dave
We have just completed the restoration of our 1939 log cabin and used the TWP 207 Butternut stain. We have about 3 inches left in a 5 gallon can. It has completely separated and I cannot get it to mix. Will it ever mix again or do I need to purchase a new can.
Also, we just need a small amount to do some of the wood on our screened in porch. Do you sell this in a quart size?
It has gone bad. Smallest size is a gallon: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-200-series-5-gallon
Hello,
Are samples of the Semi-Solid colors available? If yes, where on your website does one go to order?
Yes: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
Where can I purchase TWP 100 Pro in Minnetonka MN?
We sell online only as a TWP Dealer.
Last year we stained our pool deck eithy102 redwood. Will the stain color be the same if I buy a different “number” redwood stain.
No, colors are not identical between series.
directions say dont stain until dry after 48 hours of rain or prep. I just got my samples in and prepped sample boards yesterday. Dry enough. Will not waiting affect the color, or just the quality of the protection(which doesnt matter for sample boards). Just working on color. thanks again
Just to clarify instead of asking another question. You can mix colors of the same series correct?
You can mix colors of the same series. Best to test the samples 48 hours after prep to get a better feel of how it will look.
2 tone deck project, border will be solid. is it ok to get some of the inner non solid stain on the outer boards since it will be covered? I wouldnt think it would matter. Would really cut down on masking time
thx
That would be more of a question for the solid stain brand as if there stain can be applied over the TWP. If minor amounts, it should be okay.
Will be staining our horizontal cedar sided house this summer – Live in the woods, can be quite damp – Which product would perform better – 1500 or 200 ?
Use the TWP 1500 Series.
We love the results on our cedar deck and would like to try the cleaner/brightener on our deck that is built on a rubber roof…will your product deteriorate the rubber roof or is it safe to use?
Jim McGinty
It should not have any issues.
I’ll be starting the RAD stripper process soon. I noticed a few carpenter bee holes and injected an insecticide. I purchased the Dark Oak 1503 and was thinking about the simplest way to fill the holes so as to match the stain? I have some brown caulk and Durham’s Putty in hand. Thanks!
You can try a caulk that matches as a wood filler cannot be stained to blend.
looking to retreat ceiling of an outdoor porch that was originally treated with TWP100 clear about 5 years ago. wood is cedar and is a little dirty/dusty but also has some waterspotting and some discolored areas. does not get direct sunlight. should i sand before applying coats and how may coats should i use? is the 100 the best stain or should another of the TWP products? seems to me like it should have held up a little better seeing it is not directly in the elements but maybe 5 years is pretty good. thanks
Just pressure wash for prep while using the Gemini Kit:
https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Use the same as last time.
Hello,
I have a log home (Pine Logs with chinking) It’s been 5 years since treated with Super Deck. Now looking for a different product. I have used your 1500 stain on other timbers before, but not on logs ? And, really like the quality ! This usage would be needed for a sealant, UV protection, and color ? I like the honey color but was wandering if you sell sample colors to try out prior to ordering ? Thanks !
Samples: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
Make sure to remove the Super Deck: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Existing redwood deck has been sanded and we have added new redwood stairs. There is a Koi fish pond below the deck. If we use the cleaner and brightener I’m afraid that when power washing there may be residue that could run into the pond and harm the fish. If we just power wash with water will the 1500 stain work ok?
You should be fine as long as it free of old coatings.
Good morning – We purchased 40 gal of TWP 200 series in August of 2016 – 10 gal of russet #206 and 30 gal of clear – also 200 series. I have 10 gal of clear left over and would like to purchase the colorant to turn them to RUSSET color #206. TWP is the best stain we have found for use on cedar wood shingles and siding. We have just finish the gazebo and want tie it all together. This is the third cedar shingled house we have built.
Please let us know if you can help us out.
Hello,
Sorry but we do not sell colorants to tint nor is that even possible to tint it. In addition, the shelf life of the TWP stain is about 36 months, not 5 years.
I am prepping my house now and pressure washing and sanding. The treated deck cleaned extremely well I think and portions of the cedar are good but some spots are still lighter or more grey. We have been sanding as well. I am curious on how much the stain will cover or even some of the unevenness in the wood. Will this cover well or should I expect some unevenness? Do you have a recommendation on how best to prep better or is this reasonable?
On the house it will be uneven in the darker areas. Stripping and brighten the house would help to even it out better.
https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Would you recommend the semi transparent or the new semi solid stain? Would the semi solid also help even this out? We have brightened and still get unevenness depending on the board.
Either would be fine but the semi-solid would help it to blend better.
Not a question: just a comment for anybody that thinks the big box cleaners and brighteners are ok: I present exhibit A, after a reclean and rebrighten with Restore-A-Deck combo, came out great: waiting for stain for the weekend I hope now!
Looking good. Don’t forget to enter the contest: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-2021-contest-win-cash-and-twp-stain
I’ll enter as well, I think it went well! Before cleaning, after cleaning and fully stained!
Looks great!
My deck was stained with TWP 207 butternut brown back in June 2018. I need to replace a couple of boards and restain entire deck. It did not seem to hold up well and it was done by a professional. Should I remove the stain before reapplying. If so, how do I do that?
Prep with this kit: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
are drying times and conditions the same for the 200 series compared to 100? since they are for different things originally?
No, not the same. The 100 series typically dries in 4-12 hours while the 200 can take 8-72 hours.
I have a cedar cover over my patio. What is the best way to apply twp on the ceiling
Stain pads or brushes.
What kind of brush
https://www.twpstain.com/wood-and-deck-stains/application-tools/brushes-stain-pads
Should i wet the deck down before applying restore a deck kits? extremely dry deck. Have read that these cleaners wont get time to do their job if they are extremely dry
Yes, mist with water.
Below a rep said that the 200 series is designed for shingles and something else. Is it Good to go for decks as well? The 206 and 207 samples are the only colors I can get to be actually brown out of all the browns. They all end up reddish and the yellow pine doesnt help much
You can use it on decks.
Would you use your series 100 product or series 1500 on a 20 year old pressure treated deck that I am removing the old solid stain (superdeck) that has never adhered well. I can tolerate a semi solid stain.
Phil
Use the TWP 1500 series.
why?
Really trying to use TWP stain for its reputation, but I cant get the color I want. Its a pine/fir deck, so everything I sampled is turning out more orange and red than brown. Just need a middle of the road rich brown, but your dark oak is too dark. Dont want to go to another brand just for a color, the yellow of the pine is coming through anything transparent or semi
You can mix colors together of the same series.
Is 1500 longer lasting on a deck than 100? In appearance are they both the same? I have samples of 100 and find a 50/50 mix of 102 redwood and 101 cedar tone gives me the color I want. Would I get the same results using 1500 colors?
They last the same. Appearance is the same. Colors are not the same between series.
If I go with 100 series and product is no longer available due to government restrictions, can I freshen with 1500 or will I need to remove old before recoating?
Strip and brighten if switching. Very easy to do.
Need some clarification. Deciding on two different series, similar colors.
Facts:
5 year old deck, never stained, never cleaned, 16 hours of sunlight per day, not much daily use over the 5 years. Midwest winters.
Looking at TWP100 Series in Rustic and TWP 200 Series in either Russett or Butternut.
I did sampling on all 3 colors and they look similar on the boards. Unfortunately depending on the tightness of the grain the 2 boards I did, they are vastly different in color. (Only power washed at this point and the boards aren’t actually on the deck)
What is the real difference of the 2 series, which one will last longer, and which one is closer to a solid than a transparent? I don’t want the solid painted look but I know transparent doesn’t last as long, and don’t necessarily like the focus on the grain. Transparent is not really my goal here.
Against my wants, I am going to sand the 600 sq. ft. deck down before cleaning to try and prevent the blotchiness and some fraying I am seeing.
Are both applications wet on wet?
Any other differences? Durability wins here if there is a true difference.
If I do a wet on wet coat and don’t like the boldness of the color, can I do another coat? How long do I have to wait for a 2nd coat (after the initial wet on wet 1.5 coats)
Thanks for the quick responses I have been getting. Too big of a project to just wing it. Even if it is just a deck.
They last the same. One is not better. The 200 is designed for shakes and shingles while the 100 is for all wood types. Application is the same. You should not add more after. Thicker is not better.
Our deck is 34 yrs old. We have always used TWP on it, but the last time we did it was 2015. It was pretty nasty, but we got I prepped really well. My question is; would it be a problem if we do a third wet coat?
Thank you,
KM
More stain is not better. 2 coats max.
I stained my porch last summer with TWO 100. What is the best way to clean it? Soap and water? Or a different cleaner? Thank you.
Our prep products are only to be used for re-coating. To clean off dirt, use warm water and small amount of dish soap.
Thank You
How long will it take before I can walk on deck. Assume average temp of 55 + degrees and lots of sun via SW exposure in Seattle?
12-36 hours. Just make sure it is dry.
Hello I just purchased (being shipped now) TWP 200 stain and the Gemini prep which I beleive to be a stripper also. I now realize that it is a cleaner brightener only. Does Gemini line make a stripper or can I order Resto a deck stripper and then use the Gemini cleaner brightener. Or sand all and then use the Gemini combo?
If you need to strip, then you need the RAD Stripper. You can use the Gemini Brightener after.
can you ship twp 100 to florida
Yes, we can:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series
I am replacing railings on my 16 yr pressure treated pine deck. Cleaned and brightened deck but railings cracked and warped.
Not sure about which to use,TWP100 or 1500 for deck and new railings.
If I use new pressure treated pine for railings, how long do I wait for the wood to dry out before staining?
If I use non treated pine will either 100 or 1500 act as a preservative/sealer?
I am leaning toward non treated as I think the stain would be more uniform. Any thoughts on that?
See here about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
You need treated pine for outside wood. Regula pine will rot.
I have a 10 year old pine log home. So far it has been sanded and re-stained 3 times.(includes the original times) The problem is the color darkens and getting black mildew patches. We are in a wet environment. We use Sansin products and follow all the recommended rules, clean, temperature, etc. Recently, a log home builder suggested using an oil base TWP brand, which for our climate is suppose to be better. Can we put clear TWP over what we have on there now? I just shudder at the thought of sanding this place down again and starting over. Open to suggestions. I live in Nova Scotia Canada.
Any suggestions would be welcome Thank you
No, you have to fully remove the current stain before using the TWP stains. You would need the TWP 200 Series for Canada.
Thank you
Do you have stain samples?
https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
We have 16 year old cedar deck. It has been stained by us 2 times. The last time we stained it we used a semi solid redish color. It is waaayyyyyy over due for stain. Stain is peeling and off in most places. We are having a company do the work. I am looking at the Dark Oak semi transparent for the walking areas and they were going to do a semi solid on rails, trims, etc. Is there a semi solid color that would go with the semi transparent Dark Oak? Also, do you recommend stripping all existing coating? They are going to wash and sand. Thank you
You will have to remove 100% of the current stain first and that will require stripping and sanding. Once removed, you can use the TWP in any color that you like.
Thank you for the quick response. Do you have a recommendation for a Semi solid color that would match Semi transparent Dark Oak?
Cabin Fever or Charcoal.
I have a white pine rough sawn barn going up and thinking of using TWP 100 series. The pine is not treated and new wood. I do not have a moisture reading yet. Its not ‘green’ but certainly not 12 months old either. Siding is board and batten, 1″x10″x14′ planks and 1″x3″x14″. I’ve read the rough sawn can have sealer placed on it immediately and since it is new wood only 1 coat should be used, correct?
If we go with 100/Clear vs the cedar color (101 I believe) will the wood turn gray due to UV? If it does turn gray, can it ever be fixed without sanding down? Asking as I want to know if I have to decide now if I want it to turn gray ever.. Other impacts of not selecting a UV grade?
I plan on utilizing an airless sprayer. 415 tips ok? Should use a brush to ensure sealer penetrates or will it be fine with a sprayer?
How long should I wait for a second coat?
Any prep to be concerned with outside ensuring dirt from shipping/erecting barn is removed?
I’m considering sealing prior to the wood going up (within the next week). Sealer should penetrate better while its horizontal, but there are a lot of boards and perhaps it would be better to wait until its on so I can get in all the crevices as well? Thoughts?
I read you should mix if you have several. I have roughly 4,000 sq ft to cover and estimate 30 gallons. How would you mix those together to get a consistent color?
Thanks
You can stain rough sawn right away. The Clear will gray naturally in months. Needs to be tinted for UV protection from graying. You can spray it, just back brush drips. You can prestain since it is rough sawn of you want. Mix all prior to applying.
Any tips on trying to mix 35 gallons to cover the 4,000 sq ft?
Any need for more than 1 initial coat?
Get some extra plastic 5-gallon buckets. Mix all TWP with a drill mixer first and then pour half into the buckets, then go back and forth a few times so it all intermixes.
You may need two coats if wood is very absorbent.
https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
I have a 22 year old treated pine lumber deck that has been treated for 20 years with TWP 1501 cedartone stain. How many years in between stainings should i get? I think i have stained it 5 or 6 times in it life time. I live near Cincinnati Ohio and it gets full sun in summer and exposed to snow in winter. Should I stay with this stain or go to another?
Every 2-3 years is normal. Stick with the same.
Have a new pine deck installed last year. We cleaned and brightened with Restore-a-Deck to remove graying last week. However, there are now white spots on the wood (see pic), some of which appears to be fuzzy if scraping off with a fingernail. Can I stain over this white stuff or does this need to be removed before staining?
Also, want to show the wood grain, so would you recommend Honey tone in semi-transparent? Thanks.
See here for color help:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series-stain-colors-and-photo-albums/
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series-stain-colors-and-photo-albums/
Have new pine deck installed last year. We cleaned and brightened with Restore-a-Deck to remove graying. However, there are now white spots on the wood (see pics), some of which appears to be fuzzy if scraping off with a fingernail. Can I stain over this or does this white stuff need to be removed before staining? Thanks.
No pictures but you can stain over it.
Sorry, pics must have been too big. I’ve reduced and attached. So this blotchiness will not show through the stain? I’m going to use Honey tone. Thanks.
It shouldn’t but do a test board with the stain first.
I did a test on part of a board and the “furriness” shows through the stain (see pics) and makes it look blotchy. Really frustrated because I’ve spent days prepping the deck and don’t want it to look shabby after it’s stained. What do I do now? Will this furring go away? Suggestions? Thank you.
Here are the pics.
See this article for tips and how to remove: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Thank you. I lightly sanded down the wood “furring” on the deck yesterday (yes, a 14×22 deck!!!) with a rotary sander and it looks better. I had already cleaned and brightened before this sanding.
1) Am I able to stain now (I have TWP semi-transparent Honeytone) or is there another step before staining? I want to make sure the stain goes on evenly.
2) What method do you recommend to apply stain?
Thanks again!
Do a light pressure wash to remove sand dust, let fry for 2 days and apply the TWP. See here for applying tips.
https://twpstainhelp.com/tips/application-instructions/how-to-apply-twp-1500/
Do you just sell the product that gets the gray out of wood instead of the whole kit? I dont feel i need to brighten when I am going to use 2 darker stain colors anyway. Semi-solid and solid I am trying to skip unneeded steps as I have already ripped my railing off a 40 foot deck to make it safer and make repairs for kids. Thanks
You have to brighten to neutralize after using a cleaner or stripper, this shoud not be skipped.