Need Some Help With TWP Stains?

I am planning to replace the older treated wood on my deck with new red cedar. Since i have to allow the wood to season and dry for 6-10 months before prepping and staining, is it best to do so while the deck is installed or should i leave it stacked in my yard and only install once it’s ready? Thank you.

I’m trying to figure out what happened with this stain project. I’ve used twp 1501 forever on this deck but this time it looks horrible. The painters sanded the deck and still it looks like this. Why? You can see in the first picture, the sanded deck (not in the foreground) and then another photo after the stain. Why does it look so horrible???

The last photo is it on my porch but I don’t have any before pictures. Its not as bad on the porch but it’s horrible on the deck. What went wrong?

Thanks!

My house is clad in vertical T&G rough sawn cedar. It was previously coated with Benjamin Moore Arborcoat semi in teak color. House now needs to be recoated. It’s been 5 years and cedar is looking very dried out and starting to show cracking. Some cupping now evident. Can I use TWP to restore the cladding? Is it offered in something close to teak color? Thanks, Bob

Have a 6 year old cedar pool deck originally stained it with Sikkens Cetol Dek Finish . I have totally sanded the old finish off to bare wood with 120 grit. I am now planning to put your TWP200 cedartone finish on it Can i proceed at this point or is further prep work required?

We have 7 month old PT deck. Did steps 1 and 2 prior to staining following all instructions. Deck had some chalkiness but looked great when wet. Stained 1 coat per instructions yesterday afternoon and it looked great. This morning not so much (see pics). What happened?

We are getting ready to prep and stain our deck with TWP 100. We read that the deck needs to be dry for 48 hours before staining. Is there a maximum amount of time between the prepping and staining in case we are not able to apply the stain 48 hours after prep (can we stain a week or two after prepping and still have good results)?

Hi. I have a log sided home in the NC mountains with double level decking, some with covered porch some in full southern sun. I’ve used TWP100 for decking on a different NC home in the past with reasonable success, although I had challenges in reapplication over the years with increasing build up of sheen in some areas which would eventually lead to a peeling type failure. I’d like to again try TWP on the pressure treated pine decking here (and maybe eventually the regular pine siding). I understand the TWP100 series would likely be the better protecting product, but I’m wondering if the TWP1500 series would give me less application problems over time? I suspect your first reaction would be to first strip and brighten prior to reapplication, but I’m reluctant to do that because of the damage to the finish on lower level siding that can result from the runoff. My general procedure is to power wash with a mild bleach solution prior to staining (and yes even that requires caution with the lower level). Thanks.

We’ve purchased the TWP1500 PECAN in the past. Which color in the TWP 200 series most resembles the PECAN color in the 1500 series?

Also, if one color is available both series are they considered the same color? I have one of those TWP translucent color guides that gives a sense of the color. Perhaps that can be used.

We are about to stain our pressure treated 25 year old deck with twp 100 dark oak. We removed old stain , power washed, cleaned and brightened (Gemini kit) …..now the deck is drying for 48 hour b4 staining , my question is that I noticed furring/ fuzzies……what should I d about them b4 staining ? Live in michigan

We just had a contractor stain our brand new deck of yellow pine and they over-applied and now we have shiny areas everywhere. Some areas are virtually a complete shiny coat. Tried using mineral spirits but this is too think of a coat. Used medium sandpaper which worked but there is so much over-application that we would need to restain and knowing where we sanded and didn’t will be impossible. Using coarse and medium coarse steel wool seems to work but will be time consuming. If we use the steel wool to remove are we ok to leave as is (not restain) for the year and see how it goes or is this not recommended as we will be inadvertently making very small scratches into the wood leaving unprotected wood?

I have a 5 year old cedar deck that has been sanded down to new wood but there are still some gray patches. Should I clean and brighten the wood with the restore-a-deck kit before staining? I plan to use TWP100.

Would you recommend TWP for a lake wood dock which is two years old. It is treated pine that has never been sealed or stained. It gets a lot of water and sun exposure.

I just got done sanding, stripping with safe strip, and the brightening. There were some areas with old stain remaining- which I have gone back and re-sanded to remove all remaining stain. Should I clean and brighten these areas again? Thanks

I have a 8 year old deck which is Grey and weathered. I’m not sure what type of wood it is, but it is not cedar. Because I am in Canada, I ordered the TWP200. I was planning on lightly sanding, pressure washing, letting it dry, applying a brightener, letting it dry, then applying the stain – is this correct?

Best,
Ryan

Just finished stripping my decks with the restore stripper worked great, not going to be able to apply the Brightener today,Is it ok to apply tomorrow?.

We goofed! We used 1 1/2 gal. 1500 Cedartone with 1 gal paint thinner because we wanted the stain to be lighter in color. Instead, we are so worried that there is not enough pigment and oil to protect the wood deck. Our con hart clear redwood (no knots) deck (30′ X 16′) is 23 years old and was last stained with TWP two years ago but this time the sample stain was darker. We cleaned the whole deck with Preserva Renewer & Cleaner, let it completely dry and sanded it with an 80 grit belt sander going with the grain of the wood. We took all of the old stain off. Did we wreck our expensive beautiful deck? Wish we had just used the straight Cedartone but what do we do now? In a sample spot, we tried putting the Cedartone on top of the stain we applied but it just sits on top, does not penetrate and dries. Should we go over the deck with thinner so that the Cedartone would penetrate or would that make a mess? If we wait until next year to do something else, what should we do? Maybe we didn’t let the sample dry long enough before thinking it was too dark. How long does it take to dry? We know this is great stain but need your help. If the wood that age doesn’t have enough oil, will it crack? We don’t like the way it looks. Stain is too thin and doesn’t look like it is stained.

We have a cedar fence that is six months old and the fencing contractor sprayed it with something, possibly Thompson’s Timber Oil. It’s clear, no stain. It has some black streaking now that looks like mold or mildew. If we wanted to apply TWP 1500 Natural, how would we need to prep the wood prior to application? And would it require 1 or 2 coats?

We recently used TWP 100, Dark Oak, to stain our solid Cypress posts for the front and back of our house.

We were told by the salesman to stain 3 sides while they were on runners on the ground, allow them to dry for an hour and flip and do the final side. We were also told that TWP does not get darker with multiple coats. The salesman said “it’s color the first time, is it’s color no matter how many times you repeat.”

Well, we stained the 3 sides on the ground, flipped and stained the 4th. This created unsightly overlap dark marks/runs from the other 3 sides bleeding onto the 4th. These areas are much darker.

Also, after the posts were cut to be installed, we stained the ends to help prevent rot. The top ends slowly soaked in and seeped into the color on all 4 sides at the very tops of the posts causing the same unsightly darker color.

I guess my questions are:

1. Do I have to sand these all down and reapply evenly now that they are up and installed?

2. If I continually apply TWP to the beams, will there be a point when the beam just won’t take anymore stain and the final color will be the forever color?

Option 2 would be best for me as we have 14 of these posts that I would need to sand in order to get the color correct.

Please help!

I live in Eastern NC and will be installing a new pine pressure treated deck. What product do you recommend using and how long should the wood dry prior to treating? I would like to keep it clear, but do want UV protection. Thanks!

Hi,
Last year I stained my brand new cedar fence with TWP Cedartone. However I now want to switch to the TWP Rustic Oak or TWP Redwood because I prefer the darker tone. Can I stain right over the TWP Cedartone or do I need to strip it or prepare it in any other way?

Thank you,
Mike