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Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
We are here to help you with your TWP exterior deck or wood restoration project for 2024!
TWP is an advanced wood preservative/protectant registered by the EPA. Performance and longevity can vary though depending on the wood type, how the wood is prepped, the age of wood, and how the TWP is applied. We want everyone who has decided to use TWP 100, 1500, or 200 Series to have the best possible results.
TWP Stain Tips and Help
When asking questions please give us some information about your wood restoration project:
- What structure is your wood? Examples would be: Deck, Wood Siding, Fence, etc
- What species is the wood? Examples: Treated Pine, Cedar, Redwood, Ipe, etc
- Is the wood new or older than 1 year?
- Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Please specify brand name and type of stain used: Examples: Solid stain, Semi-Transparent Stain, etc.
- Any additional info that would be useful
Once you supply us with the information, we will able to give you advice as to how to prep your wood and any needed instructions for the TWP application.
Please ask your questions in the comment area.
Thanks
we have a treated deck built last year. my husband applied the stain too thick in some spots. will all the stain that is on the deck have to be removed?
Yes.
how do we do this?
I have been using TWP 100 Cedartone on this deck for 20 years. I used the Behr All in One Wood Cleaner and pressure washed. When I ran out I used 1/3 Fabuloso cleaner/1/3 water/1/3 bleach. There is still a darker spot where the rug was that did not come out. Is there anything else I can do to make the deck more uniform? Did I need to do a stripper to get a more uniform look with re-staining? Do you think the wood look better with switching to a semi-solid?
The easiest way to fix the discoloration is to put a rug back in the same spot. Sorry, but it cannot be cleaned off so it all blends. TWP does not come in a semi-solid color.
Do you think the wood looks clean enough to re-stain with the TWP 100 or does it need to be stripped for a better application?
It looks good enough to stain.
Im restaining my cedar sided home and wondered about using a 3/4” rough surface roller for the first coat and then back brushing w a brush? Just seems like it might go a little quicker getting the stain on. The can only indicates brushing or spraying as an application?
You can do it this way if you like.
We have a log home in Minnesota. We power washed and applied TWP (two coats) in June 2013 using the 100 Series Cedartone Natural. We were very pleased with the results. We are now needing to restain this summer. Should we be using the 100 Series like we did last time or the 1500 Series? We get some sun but mostly we are in the woods. We will have 2500 sq feet (at least) to cover and guessing it will require two coats (wet on wet application) working from the bottom up on the logs. So if we need to do 2500 sq two coats then we buy for 5000 sq of stain? Which series should we order to be shipped?
Use the TWP 100 Series again. You will need about 20-25 gallons for two coats.
The stain used on my deck was TWP 115 Honeytone. What is the difference between that and the 1515 honeytone? Can one be substituted for the other?
No, you should not substitute. Stick with the 100 Series.
I am looking to recoat a 24 year old small barn that has a Behr semi transparent red cedar stain applied 8 years ago. It is peeling and flaking on east, south and western exposure sides. I believe the wood is either cedar or hemlock.
Would TWP be ok to apply over the behr product?
No, you would have to remove the Behr.
I want to purchase TWP 100 series in clear. Your website says new for 2020 100 series will now be called 100 pro series. When I search for the 100 pro series nothing comes up. Can you tell me how to order the 100 pro series wood preserve. Can I order that on line or do I have to call. thank you
I stained deck in 2016 with 1500 series. Does deck need brightening before applying TWP stain again or just cleaning?
Clean and brighten. https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Have a few questions regarding our new pressure treated pine fence and deck . We are located in east central Mississippi. In reading your information we have learned that we should wait “at least” 4 months to apply the stain. Then when we have waited the appropriate time we should clean both the fence and deck with the clean and restore product before staining. Is there anything we should apply to the fence and deck during the time that we are waiting or just leave it alone? Which of the stain products would you recommend – again we are in Mississippi! Thank you.
Just leave alone until time. Use the TWP 100 Series.
I have used TWP 101 Cedartone for years on my cedar sided home and need to restain again. Is there nay benefit to using one of the newer types this time around like 1500 or 200? Im assuming all 3 are oil based stains w mineral spirits cleanup?
No need to switch, stick with the 100 Series.
I have an outdoor wooden loveseat that needs to be refinished. What is the best stain to use for this? It is about 20 years old and has several layers of different brand stains on it. How do I remove the previous stains? I have read not to use pressure washer on wood that old. Is there another way to remove the stains without pressure washing?
Post a picture.
Here are several pictures of the loveseat. Hope this helps. Thank you.
Nothing was uploaded.
Pictures of loveseat
See if these go through.
You will have to strip this while pressure washing to remove. Not possible without the pressure washing included.
OK. What will be the best stain to use, 1500 or 200? Thank you.
1500.
Thank you. Should I use 200, 300, or 1500? Also have a picnic table as well as the loveseat to finish.
Try to upload pictures again.
– What structure is your wood? Deck and Fence
– What species is the wood? Cedar fence and treated deck
– Is the wood new or older than 1 year? Yes
– Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Yes, I don’t know but different stains on each, the fence was stained by installer.
– Other notes: the cedar fence is widely exposed to south and gets a lot of sun. I’ve done some cleaning so far with 30 second cleaner and power washer based on video I saw online, looks pretty clean, not sure if cleaned enough. Ordered samples of TWP to test.
You will need to remove all the current stain on the wood prior. Best to reply with some pictures for help with this.
We are needing to put on a new coat of stain this year. Wondering if we can apply a coat of your TPW Pro 100 Series over our existing stain? We have a wood deck. It is redwood. Yes older wood. It has been stained previously with Sherwin Williams-Superdeck. It is semi-transparent, oil based, Redwood color.
The upper deck and steps are in good shape. The lower deck area has black from the trees. Wondering where we need to start? Do we need a cleaner and brightner? Do we need to remove the stain we have on there? We are going to power wash the deck this Saturday.
Yes, you need to remove the SD. Use a deck stripper and then a wood brightener: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
I have a 20-year old redwood deck of 800 sqft that was last stained in 2014 with TWP 1500 semi-transparent stain. Most of it is faded but not flaking, but two shaded areas are still shiny as if recently stained, probably too much stain applied last time. I’d like to use TWP semi-transparent. Minimal mildew stains. Should I remove the shiny stain with stripper or sanding? Can I just stain over it with light sanding? Should I remove the stain on the faded areas with stripper or just use cleaner? Can I just do 2 wet-on-wet coats on the faded areas and one on the shiny areas? I have to replace two boards with new redwood. How shall I deal with them?
Strip it all down to the bare wood and start fresh: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Do I need to use RAD Booster on shiny areas?
Booster and gel.
I need to replace 3 redwood boards on my deck with new redwood. Apparently I need to wait 6 months or so before staining them. I guess this means I should replace the boards now and refinish the deck in October before it gets cold and rainy here in sunny CA? Should I leave the new boards bare or apply some stain?
It is four months to weather and if you want to stain them now, you can but you will have to redo those boards with another coat in 6-12 months.
Need advice on proper prepping for TWP products and what TWP products I need.
1. Age of wood: 8+ years old
2. Type of Wood: Redwood planks
3. Condition: Needs TLC, see pictures.
4. Last Stain: Sherwin Williams SuperDeck waterbourne semi-transparent in SW 3507 in Riverwood (third darkest in line), 3 years ago, perhaps applied too thick.
5. Area: It’s a west facing uncovered deck in Utah, about 4,200 above sea level. It receives lots of sun in summer, and snow cover in winters. Low humidity environment. Deck is ~500 sq feet on two levels and raised off the ground at least 3+ feet in all places (which should help with drying).
Thinking I need to 1) power wash to clean, 2) sand using 80 grit, 3) clean using a cleaner, 4) brighten, then 5) stain, but I’m not certain. I’m willing to sand if necessary but obviously stripping would be easier.
What do you prep and products do you recommend?
You are correct with the steps. Sanding will be needed to remove as a stripper will not work.
I’m using the stain on a deck. Which product should I use the 100 pro or the 1500?
I have an old stain on it but not yours. I was going to sand the whole deck because I have scratch marks from my dog. Is that enough prep, or do I need to do more before applying?
What is the best way to apply the satin?
I live in Petaluma Ca, where can I buy the stain here?
Can you send me samples of the Dark Oak, Rustic, and Redwood.
Thank you,
Kevin
Only the 1500 is allowed in CA. Samples are here: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series
All of the previous stain will need to be removed.
Is sanding it off enough or should I use a cleaner or brightened.
Sand first, cleaner and brighten after: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
What stain and prep method do you suggest for a tiger wood deck that is grayed significantly in some spots due to morning and afternoon sun? We’d like something that will last more than one season or at LEAST thru the season summer to winter seasons. We have used rosewood oil recommended by decking mfgr but it doesn’t last thru winter to protect from UV rays and graying.
Prep with this: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Stain with the TWP 100 Series.
Your wood type requires and annual cleaning and reapplication.
Thanks so much. The deck is about 1700 square feet. How much would I need of each?
2 of the prep kits and about 6-8 gallons of stain for 1 coat on a hardwood deck.
I am looking at refinishing my shadowbox style fence that has not been stained since 2009! I used the older formula of Superdeck oil based at that time. I pressure washed 2 years ago and used wolman deckbrite.
I have 170′ of 4′ high pressure treated fence.
Please advise what is best for prep and application. I also have a Graco magnum lts 15 sprayer that I only used once for spraying the Superdeck.
Is that a good thing to use? What tip size is recommended?
Thanks
For prep, use this kit while pressure washing: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
You can use the sprayer for applying the stain. Any tip will work but wider is faster.
Help my husband applied the 100 series too thick. It has been a couple of days and it is still very sticky. Any tips to help remedy?
See here: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-is-spotty-or-shiny/
Do you have a product that will remove mill stamping before staining?
No, that will need to be sanded off.
Hi I was staining with TWP 100 last fall and got hit with a flash rain storm. The coating failed but only half the deck was stained. If I use the Restore and deck stripper and brightener kit will this make the stained wood look like the unstained wood. I am worried that there will be a difference in shade between the stripped stained wood and the unstained wood.
My next question is I have some trim pieces that will be made of new cedar lumber. Will I have to let this wood weather for months as it says on the can or can I use the brightener on it and stain it?
You should strip it all off and start over so it has an even appearance. You should let the new wood weather and prep it: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Do I need the additives to strip the TWP 100? Or just the standard Restore a deck stripper?
No additves needed when stripping TWP.
What happens if you apply second coat of stain after 24 hours? This is new dedar wood about 10 months old.
Only one coat for new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Adding too much stain or not applying wet on wet if doing a second coat could result in shiny sports and improper curing of the stain.
I am getting prepared to stain my new deck next month. How do you remove the stamping on the boards? Can the deck be sanded before staining, and when should it be done? I have some boards that are fairly rough and need some sanding.
Hi – I have a log home (douglas fir) that needs to stained again. I used the 200 series last time. should I use it again or an alternative product?
thanks,
Phil
Use the same.
Have used Rustic oak in the past. Is it replaced by just Rustic now?
Yes, same thing.
We have a 22 mo old cedar deck that is half exposed and half covered with a peaked overhang. We had it professionally sprayed 6 mo after installation (so it was sprayed 16 mo ago) with Behr Premium Transparent Quick Dry Oil Based Wood Finish (Clear No. 4900). What do you recommend to prep it, and would you recommend TWP 100 or 1500? We will use either 101, 115, or 120 for the color. Thanks much!
Pictures, please.
Rained here this morning. These are all in the sun exposed areas, except the 3rd one.
a few more
Use this kit for prep: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Stain with the TWP 1500.
Awesome, thanks much. One coat or two of the 1500?
Two coats applied wet on wet: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
Should I use one coat or two of the 1500? (Sorry if this posts twice, I don’t see my reply so I’m posting again.)
Thanks much!
I sanded my older deck treated hemlock deck down to bare wood last summer and put on on coat of 100. A couple of days ago I pressure washed it and it is clean and looks pretty good. Can I put on a coat today once the due evaporates. Thanks.
Robert Burgy.
Yes.
Thanks for getting back.
i have a 12 year old cedar deck that i have been using twp 1500 natural for the past 4 years. i use the restore a deck prep kit before every time . i was wondering if i needed to do this or if there was something to clean it with instead ? the end result is great just a tremendous amount of work.
You always have to prep it when recoating and the kit does the best job.
I am installing an outdoor kitchen using dark walnut wood. I want to use a polyurethane to protect. Do you have one that is clear with no pigments as the wood is a nice dark color and I just want to enhance the natural color of the wood.
We do not to sell any polys.
We just started staining our fence with TWP 100 in dark oak. It is way too dark! There is too much already up to even think about stripping. Can we put a lighter shade like honeytone on top and lighten/warm it up, or are we stuck?
You cannot lighten it up unless you remove it.
Roughly 3 year old deck in Minnesota previously weathered a year then stained with Sikkens Cetol semi-transparent which is now peeling pretty good/gone in most areas. Assuming Restore-a-deck stripper/brightener? Do I need the thickener/additive for the side boards of the deck where the stain is thicker/less weathered? TWP 100 series or 1500? Thanks!
Use the 100 Series. Pictures of the Sikkens, please.
Pictures as requested. Thanks in advance!
That is not semi-transparent but an opaque or solid stain in appearance. You will not be able to strip this fully. You will have to sand as well to get it off before using the TWP.
So would you try to strip what’s left then sand? Or skip the strip part, sand, then use the Gemini kit for prep? Again, thanks for your assistance.
Sand this off then use the Gemini Kit for the final prep.
I applied TWP1500 to my Black Locust Deck and Cedar chairs. After the first coat, I applied the second coat within an hour. But the stain has not dried even after 2 full days. I used a foam pad to apply in both coats. The temps were in the high 50’s to mid 60’s. The can was mixed frequently while applying. Some areas have taken a full week to dry. What did I do wrong? Thanks
You have a hardwood. Only one coat should be applied to hardwoods so basically it was over-applied.
I ordered stain yesterday, 4-15-2020, do you send an order number or a conformation code ?
An email order confirmation was sent yesterday after the order was placed.
I live in Panama City Beach, Florida. I will be installing 1″x6″ cypress tongue & groove wood for underside of open air porch. The cypress was air dried for 18 months prior to milling, and then stored in a barn out of the weather for another year. It has recently been sanded with 100 grit to remove milling marks and rough spots.
1. What type of stain to use?
2. Any prep required besides what has been done already?
3. Can TWP be over coated with clear (oil based or water based) after it dries to provide additional sheen and protection? Or is it best to not overcoat so that TWP can be reapplied in the future?
You cannot stain this until it weathers for 4-12 months after install and prep: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
1. Use the 100 Series
2. See link above
3. You can never top coat a deck stain with a sealer.
I had some metal posts on the front porch wrapped with cedar boards this past November. Any certain prep? And what type of stain should I get? I would like to get a dark color walnut that shows the grain and knots on the cedar. Thanks so much. I will order samples from you-but I don’t understand the difference in the series.
Use the 1500 Series. Possibly Black Walnut or Dark Oak. Prep with this: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
ok-thanks so much
I have a Cedar Elite deck that is 4 years old.
Can TWP be applied over Sikkens ProLuxe Translucent wood finish?
No. you must remove the Sikkens first.
We live in Houston and are curious what products would be best. We have two pergolas that are made of cedar, older than a year old, and it came with a semi-transparent stain. There is a little green mold on the pergolas. We also have fencing that is treated pine, most of it is older than a year, but some of it is only five months old. None of the fencing has been stained or painted. The older part of the fence is grey and has some mold on it. Thank you.
Prep for the fence would be this: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Prep for the pergolas: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Stain with the 100 Series: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series
We purchased a home with a large deck and the previous owner said he used TWP for the stain. I remember him saying honeytone, but I I thought he mentioned doing the fence and railings with a different color (but I’m not 100% about that). I’ve read many questions and answers at it seems like I really need to know the exact stain that was used so that I can just use the deck restore (cleaner and brightener). Otherwise, I need to strip then brighten. I’ve added a few pictures to see if you could possible help me out. Also, there’s a pergola that was never stained. It is weathered and gray. Do I need to use the deck restore on this before putting the first coat on it? I do know they just did a maintenance coat on certain sections of the deck every once in awhile, versus doing it all at the same time. I am guessing they didn’t use the deck restore and just applied over the existing stain.
I have replaced the really bad boards, but is there anything I can do on boards like the one pictured? Can I sand it with a heavy grit to knock off the rough spots or do I need to completely replace the board? My issue is that I really want to do all the deck at one time so that it looks somewhat uniform (and since I’m stuck at home and actually have time to do it right now). I know I’m not supposed to stain a brand new board until it has weathered, hence the reason I am wanting to use the decent boards from the deck I replaced for the board on the larger deck. The problem is that I have a very limited number of boards available. I’m literally going down EVERY board on the deck and if it is popping up at all, replacing the screw or adding a new one. If it is on the end of the board I am pre-drilling so I don’t crack the board even more.
I was SUPER close to just using a solid stain on the horizontal decking to help cover the imperfections, but after doing some research it seems like it might not be the way to go…especially next to a pool.
AND ALL THAT BEING SAID, maybe I should have just uploaded pictures and just said……what is your advice for this deck? 🙂 I’ve never stained a deck in my life and I just want to make sure I do it right.
Use the Gemini Restore Kits for the prep. The stain color looks darker than Honeytone. Closer to Pecan. I would suggest that after the prep. The checking is normal for wood. You could try to sand those rough spots out if you like.
I was able to contact the previous owner. He said he used honeytone on the entire deck.
To clean, he always used a bleach and water mix. Can using that mix or not removing all of the dirt, mildew, etc…and then not brightening the wood cause subsequent stain coats to be darker overall?
If I clean and brighten correctly, do you think I will be able to use honeytone so we can keep it as light as possible? Since we have the pool, we spend a lot of time on the deck and don’t want it to be too hot.
Sorry for all of the questions. It’s a big project and I don’t want to clean it all and not be happy with the final product, then have to go back and strip it all.
Yes, it has gotten darker as he was not prepping correctly. To get it lighter you ill have to strip and brighten, not clean and brighten: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
So I was already about 75% done with just cleaning and brightening when I saw your response. I’ve attached some pictures for where it stands right now. I had to replace several boards l, so I’m prepared to hit those boards in a few months. It is still a little wet in these pictures, showing a little darker than in person.
Would honeytone work now that I’ve got it clean? I’m getting ready to purchase 20 gallons and really don’t want to waste my money. As I think I mentioned above, I’ve never stained a deck so I’m a little worried. I cleaned one of the boards I replaced and got a sample of honeytone locally. I dabbed it on the dry board with an old t-shirt and it just like like a dark spot on the board. It’s still drying but it isn’t what I was expecting. I assume my application method wasn’t great either.
It looks like you cleaned it well. You can stain with the Honeytone.
First, thank you so much for always responding so quickly!
I believe the pergola turned out great. I like the look. The sun was going down, so I tested what I had left on different parts of the deck to see what it would look like.
On the deck floor, I stained the first 5 runs. It is much darker than I was hoping for.
I stained the first 2 sections of the rail and it isn’t horrible. Still darker than I was hoping.
I stained the left panel of fence to the first 4×4. The wood was clean, but pretty dark. I assumed it would just get darker and it did.
ALL that being said, I’ve spent hours on this deck already but I want the finished product to look great. If I take the time and money to use the restore a deck stripper and brightener, will everything match much better? Would you suggest taking that route or going with pecan instead and staining as it sits?
I did replace quite a few deck boards, so I have to think about that as well.
Would it be better to just let it sit like it is right now for a month and a half to two months…then strip and brighten everything so that I can stain the new boards at the same time?
Sorry about all of the questions. I just have zero experience with wood! A friend of mine suggested going with a solid stain, but I’ve read nothing but bad news about that.
Your wood is internally dark and that is why it is coming out darker. Strip and brightening would help some but it will still be a darker color than normal. The new wood will not match the older wood even if you wait a few months. The new boards are less absorbent so they will stain lighter. Using a darker color throughout all would help to this looks more even.
Pressure treated deck in GA with previous semi-transparent stain. Will strip old stain off. Not worried about wood rot or splitting, just color lasting londger and mildew resistance. Would you recommend 100 or 1,500?
Use the TWP 100 Series.
I bought 5 gallons of Honeytone TWP 100 Series, and used it to stain a 3/4 inch rough-sawn, tongue and groove ceiling. It turns out that the stain came out much yellower than we had anticipated. What now? I don’t see any colors in your stains that more closely approximate what we are trying to achieve. Is it possible to mix in some umber or burnt umber into your stain, to darken it? Can I mix another brand of oil-based stain into the remaining TWP? What other alternatives would you suggest? Finally, if we can find a more appropriate stain, how would you suggest we apply it to the installed ceiling — spray? roller? pad? Thank you for your help. Don 505-216-6612
You can mix another TWP color into it but you cannot mix anything else into it. Dark Oak would be a dog option to mix into it. Use a stain pad or brush.
About four years ago I applied 2 coats of 1500 series to my cedar fence. I’m now seeing some blotchieness and streaking anD want to restrain with 1500 again. Is it necessary to strip the old 1500 series stain?
No, but use this kit for prep: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
My redwood deck is 25 years old.I live in Illinois and it takes a beating.The deck has always been refinished with superdeck stain .Most of the stain is worn off ,even though it was stained 2 years ago. The superdeck did not look good after staining,did not soak in in spots .I used thierstripper and brightener.How should I proceed. Thanks, Ralph Mulvihill
Post a picture here of the current condition.
Did you get the pictures?
Nope.
Will the stain stripper effect the black paint on my aluminum balusters? If so, is there a way I can protect them?
Typically no but always test spot first.
I gues my questions somehow got deleted as I do not see them posted. We have a new rough sawn cedar plank fence. I want to keep the natural new look as much as possible yet protect the fence. We live in Denver, Colorado. The fence is 2 months old. What is the best TWP product for our fence. Is the cedar semi transparent stain very orange in color? Can we use the TWP product now? Do we need any prep?
If rough sawn wood you can stain now if clean and dry. Use the TWP 100 Series. Honeytone 115 is the lightest tinted color. Golden.
I’m about to refinish a 20 year old Pine log Frame cabin with cedar shake sidings and a ceder deck. Trying to determine wether I should go with TWP 1500 series or the TWP 100 series. Whats the basic differences between the series. I’m on the Olympic Peninsula, WA.
Use the 200 for the shakes: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-200-series-5-gallon
Use the 100 for the deck: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series
See here about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Hi, I live in northern Minnesota. I recently purchased 90 ft of dock. It’s western red cedar decking(90ft) with aluminum boxes. The decking is new, kiln dried and has been sitting inside a warehouse all winter under a breathable tarp. I have been researching stain products and I think the TWP 100 series in cedartone would be a great match for my dock. My question is how do I prep this brand new wood? Do I let it weather and then use a wood cleaner and Brightener on it or do I skip the weathering part since it’s been drying for the past 6 mos out of the elements.
I HAVE 760 SF OF CEDAR DECK THAT HAS NO ROOF OVER IT AND DOES NOT HAVE MUCH STAIN SHOWING, I HAVE 1100 SF OF CEDAR THAT IS UNDER A PORCH ROOF AND THE STAIN IS IN SOMEWHAT GOOD CONDITION. bOTH AREAS WERE STAIN/SEALED 2 YEARS AGO WITH ADM 2000 THAT IS AN OIL BASED PRODUCT AND THEY HAVE GONE OUT OF BUSINESS. I WOULD LIKE TO APPLY A CEDAR TONE TWP OIL BASED PRODUCT TO THESE AREAS.
THERE IS LESS THAN 20SF OF GREEN MOLD ON ONE CORNER OF DECK,AND THERE IS NO PEELING OF ANY OF THE EXISINTING STAIN ON EITHER AREA. I WOULD LIKE TO USE THE SAME TWP PRODUCT ON ALL AREAS.
I WOULD PREFER PURCHASING A GALLON OF RECOMENDED TWP AND TEST ON THE EXISTING AFTER A THOROUH SCRUBBING AND RINSING RATHER THAN REMOVING EXISTING STAIN. IF TWP PRODUCT SOAKS IN AND DRIES PROPERLY THEN I WOULD DO THE WHOLE PROJECT, POSSIBLY USING 2 COATS ON UNCOVERED DECK AND ONE COAT OR TWO COATS ON COVERED AREA. I AM OPEN TO WATER BASED PRODUCTS BUT PREFER OIL . I
JUST WANT THE VERY BEST MOST LONG LASTING PRODUCT THAT YOU HAVE TO OFFER. PREVIOUSLY I HAVE ROLLED ON PRODUCT AND BACK BRUSHED , I ALSO HAVE AIRLESS AND GARDEN LOW PRESSURE SPRAYER .
PLEASE ADVISE AND CAN I BUY RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS FOR UPS OR FED EX DELIVERY AS NOT GOING TO TOWN DURING THESE TIMES?
TWP cannot be applied over a stain over a different brand. You must strip it and then brighten the wood. Once removed fully, use the TWP 1500 Series.
I just purchased your Restore a Deck Stripper/Brightener from you before I saw the information about the Restore-a-Deck Thickening Gel and Booster. We are planning to remove TWP Cedartone 1501(front and one side of house) and TWP 101 Natural Cedartone (applied to garage) from cedar shingle siding on our house and garage that was applied in July 2019 (it is the wrong color – we want to use 115 Honeytone instead). Do I need the Thickening gel and or Booster also? See photos. Thank you.
No, you do not need them for this.
In the process of totally refinishing a 15+ year old, pressure treated pine deck, that had been previously covered with a semi-transparent stain. So far I have applied a stain stripper and using a power washer have removed most of the previous stain. I am now in the process of fully sanding all surfaces to get back to the original wood. Couple of questions. For the TWP stain to fully absorb into the wood, is there a certain grit sandpaper I should use for that final sand? Also, do i need to use any of your deck prep products before or after i sand but before i stain….. brightener etc. Thanks.
60-80 grit. Final prep with this kit: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Thanks – just to confirm the cleaner and brightener should be done after the sanding is completed?
Correct.
My deck is in an area that gets a lot of mold and mildew – it rains a lot here. With a great deal of effort, I’ve cleaned it thoroughly with TWP products and am ready to stain it. Once stained, can I seal over it with a marine sealer to further protect it from having to do this so soon again?
No. You cannot apply a sealer or any coating over the TWP or any other deck stain for that matter. It will fail and peel if you do.