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Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
We are here to help you with your TWP exterior deck or wood restoration project for 2024!
TWP is an advanced wood preservative/protectant registered by the EPA. Performance and longevity can vary though depending on the wood type, how the wood is prepped, the age of wood, and how the TWP is applied. We want everyone who has decided to use TWP 100, 1500, or 200 Series to have the best possible results.
TWP Stain Tips and Help
When asking questions please give us some information about your wood restoration project:
- What structure is your wood? Examples would be: Deck, Wood Siding, Fence, etc
- What species is the wood? Examples: Treated Pine, Cedar, Redwood, Ipe, etc
- Is the wood new or older than 1 year?
- Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Please specify brand name and type of stain used: Examples: Solid stain, Semi-Transparent Stain, etc.
- Any additional info that would be useful
Once you supply us with the information, we will able to give you advice as to how to prep your wood and any needed instructions for the TWP application.
Please ask your questions in the comment area.
Thanks
New home with rough sawn western red cedar posts, brackets and corbels. What semi transparent product will work the best? How soon can it be applied? How long will it last before needing recoated? Does the wood have to be cleaned or stripped before recoating? This is in the midwest united states.
If rough sawn and it is clean and dry, you can stain now. Use the TWP 1500 Series: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series
Does new cedar posts need to cure out awhile before applying the twp 1500? How long will it last before needing another coat?
See this about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I have a 5 gallon bucket of TWP 101 Cedartone and need another gallon can but don’t see it listed. What should I do?
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series-1-gallon
We installed a cedar deck & was wanting a clear stain. Would that be the “natural”?
See here about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Natural is not clear but tinted. TWP does come in a clear. FYI, a clear coating will not protect from UV graying. It must be tinted.
How do I remove overspray from my vinyl siding?
Try a graffiti remover cleaner from your local hardware store.
I live in south central Pennsylvania and just completed a 28 x 12 foot pressure treated deck. What preparation do I need to do and how long should I wait to use your product.
I would like to use a oil based semi transparent cedar tone stain.
See here for new wood tips: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Use the TWP 1500 after the wait and prep.
Hi, we have installed earlier this year Douglas Fir timber trusses on the exposed front porch. I plan on treating with Bora Care then staining with TWP 100. I’ve been having trouble getting 48 hours of continual dry weather to treat with the Bora Care, but hope to still this year. Getting into fall now, but should have some days over 50 degrees. We’re in southern Missouri. Should I wait for a while to stain?
Over 50 is fine for applying. If it does not work out then wating until Spring is okay as well.
Thanks for being so quick! I guess it goes without saying that night time temps likely would not be over 50, so is there a cut off for night temps?
It cannot freeze over the first night.
Hello, I just need clarification on whether you can use TWP 100 series in Salt Lake City Utah, or do I have to use the 1500 series. The reason I ask is I am seeing conflicting information from different distributors.
Thank you in advance for your help.
Sincerely,
DDK
If you live in one of these counties, you will need the 1500 Series: Box Edler, Cache, Davis, Salt Lake, Tooele, Utah County, and Weber.
Thank you, for the clarification.
I just had a cedar fence installed at the end of August. I have read conflicting information on when to apply any sort of sealant/stain.
The fence company recommended your product and suggested staining after 6 to 8 weeks (and to make sure the fence is dry). I live in Wisconsin and the weather appears to be moving towards cooler temps already so I am thinking November would be too late to apply .
My question(s) — is that the time frame you would recommend? What is the coldest temp that it could be applied and dry properly, how much product would I need (there is 168 feet of fence, it is 4 feet high and about 2-3 inches between each plank), and if we are interested in maintaining the natural cedar look which product would you recommend?
Assume it would be ok to use a sprayer.
Thank you in advance for you help.
Casey Newman
Read this about new wood. It will answer when to stain and how to prep: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
What is the total sq footage of the wood for both sides? You can spray but you will need to back brush to ensure an even application.
See here for photos to help determine the color you might want: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series-stain-colors-and-photo-albums/
would you recommend the 100 or 1500 series for a new deck? which has a longer life?
I have a white pvc trim board around the deck, will the twp product stain that if it isn’t taped up?
is the 1500 series water based and less likely to stain objects around the deck?
See this about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
The 100 or 1500 have the same life. Both are oil-based. The difference is VOC compliancy for certain states.
I am putting on about 25 squares of western red cedar shingles and would like to use a penetrating oil stain, specifically TWP 100. I’ve read the preparation requirements. I have two problems. (1) There’s no way I’m going to hand sand 25 squares of shingles–I did this before with cedar clapboards and that was trouble enough, and (2) since I want to backprime the shingles I don’t want to install them and then wait four or five months to coat the face side. Any suggestions (with either of the problems). Thanks very much,
Are these shingles smooth or rough sane cut. See this about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
1. You do not sand for prep.
2. You have to wait if smooth wood. If rough sawn you can stain now.
I cleaned and prepped my deck as usual. It was very clean and dried for 48 hours in 90 degree, windy, sunny conditions. I applied two coats of 100 series stain wet on wet as I have before. It’s been 24 hours since I applied it, with the same perfect weather conditions for drying/curing. I got home from work to check it and it’s shiny in several areas. It’s tacky to the touch. I ran my fingers across it and stain transferred to my finger tips. Any ideas? Assuming the deck soaked up all it could and this is excess residue? How do I remove it now that it’s tacky? It I take rags to it will it mess up the finish? Thanks in advance!
See here: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-is-spotty-or-shiny/
I have a new deck and screen in porch floor to stain. The wood is pine, maybe 6 months since installation. I am planning on using the TWP 100. I have read I need to seal/ condition the wood to prevent blotchiness, is this accurate?
See this about prep and stain: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
No, you cannot seal or pre condition wood before staining.
Fence is a year old treated pine. Cleaned it, but now it’s rained quite a bit and looks like 60’s for temps. How long do I have to wait after rain to stain it?
48 Hours.
Is TWP 200 the same thing as Radcon?
No. RADCON is a concentrate that is not sold to the public.
I have spilled some TWP 1500 deck stain on concrete. Can you please advise how to or what products to use to clean concrete. Love the stain! Just have a few areas I need to clean-up. Thank You!
Try a graffiti remover cleaner from your local hardware store and pressure washing.
Thank you-after reading the graffiti cleaner is water based but 1500 TWP is oil based. Just wondering if someone has tried this before I purchase it. Thank You!
The base of the cleaner does not matter.
Thank You!
Live in St Louis, Mo. Built new deck, red cedar in May 2019. What is the best product to use?
Prep with this: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Stain with the TWP 100 Series. See here about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
We live in N.California bay area and just replaced our 32 year old redwood deck (about 800 sq feet)…
Our deck faces south and gets fried in the summer sun…New gazebos will solve that problem…
I used to use Penofin Brazilian rosewood oil (redwood tint ) and that worked well until the formula was
changed here in in the bay area by our “clean air” folks…
I want a product that is oil-based (no pariffin wax ) that is truly oil-based with no carbon tetrachloride –
type solvent that dries so fast that it doesn’t leave the deck protected except for 1 year,if that…
Paraffin wax stays on the deck surface and causes water to bead-up like a newly waxed car…
Water might bead a little after applied as with the Penofin I used to use, but that didn’t last long
and the water more or less “sheeted” and evaporated…
What would be the best of your product line for my new deck?…The redwood is “Construction Heart” and
is fairly dry due to the scorching sun we’ve had lately…
My contractor,who is extremely “pickey” and detail oriented asked me to find out what would be the
best time frame to stain and protect our new deck… A few weeks, a month, two months, next year?
Our rainy season will be coming shortly so we’re trying to get the best info…
Thanks, Lou Roessler
See here about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Use the TWP 1500 Series.
Hello,
I’ve recently completed the installation of a Clear Vertical Grain red cedar ceiling for a patio cover, in Houston TX. We would like to protect the wood while keeping it’s natural beauty. As we’re retired, we would prefer a lower maintenance approach however keeping the ceiling from getting dull is top of mind. Our contractor prefers a spray application if that can fit into the product recommendation.
Thanks in advance for your prompt reply.
TWP 115 Honeytone.
One of the pine logs on my log house has a deep scar about two inches wide, four inches long, and one-half inch deep. It doesn’t appear to be rotten as the wood is still firm. I was thinking of patching this area with some type of epoxy filler. First, do you think it is a good idea to patch the area? If so, would you paint some TWP stain over the scar prior to applying the epoxy filler? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thank you.
Filler will not blend or stain to blend when the TWP is applied. It will stand out and not look very good.
We hired someone to apply TWP 1500 Series stain to our deck & staircase (new construction cedar, including 180+ railing balusters, weathered almost 5 months—all of which we meticulously cleaned & brightened).
The person we hired to do the staining seemed to understand the TWP application process. However, the staining job was botched. It appears that the stain was sprayed onto the railings/balusters and not worked in with a brush, so there are places where the stain has dried on the surface, and is kind of powdery. There are other places where it appears to be partially wiped off (as though he didn’t want to over-apply), and still other spots where there’s overspray and drips. (The floor and stairs are not stained yet; just the railings/balusters – but the overspray/drips are on the deck floor.)
How can we fix this? Will we have to strip and brighten in the spring? What would happen if we instead power-washed to try to get a good coat applied over what’s there? Will this cause more problems than it will solve?
Also, I understand that sanding is generally not a good idea. Will this cause issues with how the stain absorbs into the wood?
The thought of having to go through another cleaning (or stripping) and brightening process all over again is daunting. You can’t imagine how long it took to prep all of those dang balusters!
We learned a valuable lesson in that we should’ve kept a watchful eye on the worker’s procedures. But in the meantime … How do we fix this?
We can see that the stain will look beautiful when it’s done. But right now, we’re very discouraged and would like to know the easiest path forward.
Many thanks!
To fix this you will need to strip and brighten. Apply more stain over it will not fix it and sanding is not needed.
Not the answer we were hoping for, but thank you.
What do we do about the smeared stain and drips and overspray on the currently-unstained deck floor? Would it be best to just go ahead and stain the deck floor as planned, so there is something on there over the winter, and then in the spring strip/brighten the whole thing (railings, balusters, stairs, floor) and start over again?
That’s the strategy we’re leaning toward since we have a bucket of stain sitting here and have already prepped the wood for staining. So we would essentially be staining over the drips/overspray.
We thought about dealing with the drips, overspray, etc. by leaving the floor unstained and just stripping those affected areas in the spring when we strip the misapplied railing stain that’s already there. But we’re worried about using a stripper on bare wood and only in the affected places (would the deck then stain unevenly??). So would it be best to just finish the staining so everything’s in the same state — all needing to be stripped/brightened/restained, all weathered the same?
The prospect of having to start all over again in the spring is frustrating and daunting. It’s the balusters that are time-consuming and difficult to prep efficiently. It was a hellish experience. I wish we could find someone in our area experienced with this product.
Also, if you could come up with a ONE-step cleaning (or stripping) + brightening product, it would be amazing!
Thanks for your help.
Leave the floor unstained, it will be fine for one Winter. It will all be even once you prep all wood in the Spring.
I stained our PT pine deck about a month ago with TWP 1500. Deck is about a year old. Pressure washed, cleaned, and brightened using Gemini products as instructed about 2 weeks before staining. Overall deck looks great, except for this spot. It’s where pine sap had leached out of the wood after installation. Prior to staining I power washed, cleaned, brightened, and sanded the area multiple times. Stain went on and dried fine. We got rain for the first time since staining and the next day the white substance (see attached picture) appeared over the spot where the pine sap had been. Any idea what’s going on here and what I need to do to fix it?
It is sap leeching out. No way to stop or prevent this as it comes from inside the wood. Try sanding it off and touching up this board.
Does TWP work on new cypress?
Yes but see this about new wood https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Had a contractor install a 6 foot Pine Fence about 2 months ago. Do not know if it is pressure treated, and do not know if it was kiln dried, this lack of knowledge is due to my installers questionable credibility. I know the boards are Pine, and are obviously and substantially thick. I was out of town when the installation happened and should have been there to insure what he used. Regrets.
I have used TWP on previous fencing on Cedar, and liked it very much. But as I said, I now have switched to Pine.
Your guiding hand would be greatly appreciated., regarding when and what to do.
I should like to note that I prefer to brush my TWP with a stainers 4″ brush, and while there’s a lot of fencing to do, I have always been pleased with the outcome. TWP is a Great product!
See this about new wood https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Applied TWP100 stain to deck walkway. Weather forecast changed. Now expecting rain about 12 hours after application. I have enough plastic to cover the area. Would you recommend covering until rain passes?
Do not cover. Just leave as is. It should be fine.
What products are specifically EPA approved for aquatic use. The application is a dock surface of new pine.
Sorry but no wood stains are EPA approved for aquatic use. The TWP is EPA approved from preventing mildewcide. There is no such thing as being EPA approved for docks, etc.
For a new porch with new UNtreated yellow pine – what is the seasoning time I should observe?
Thanks!
See this for tips: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
My deck is about 15 years old, and treated lumber that was stained by previous owner with TWP 120 Pecan. I hired a painting crew to power wash my deck and re-coat with the TWP 120 Pecan. Because they were incompetent, they went to Sherwin Williams and got Superdeck Semi-Transparent in the color Pecan and proceeded to stain over 3/4 of my deck while I was not home. It was a disaster. They promised that they would strip and start over, so they got the SW stripper and tried to remove, but it did not completely strip. Their frustration led them to walk off the job and leave me with a mess. What do you recommend I should do? After reading your website, I think I want to switch to your 1500 series since I live in Michigan.
Can you post a picture of the current condition?
Here are the pictures you requested. Thanks for your help.
Those guys were not very good. It can be fixed though. Use this kit to remove: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
1-I recently posted a question about scrubbing or power washing brightener and your answer was power wash off. I read the brightener bottle and it said to hose off. Does either way matter? Or does it need to be taken off more aggressively with a power wash?
2-Also, thinking ahead to the future once staining is complete, in the spring I plan to power wash my vinyl siding as I usually do. I realize I shouldn’t use a bleach product as it will bleach the stained deck. Would I be able to use something less aggressive on the house like simple green without affecting the stained deck or should I simply cover the deck regardless of what I use? Is there a product that TWP would recommend for cleaning nearby structures without affecting the deck?
3-Lastly, I posted a question about the box structure oozing sap and was told the was nothing I could do about it. I should have asked my question differently. I know I cant stop the sap from coming out till its done, but what I really wanted to know was if there is at least a way to get it off of the surface so that I can apply my stain evenly.
1. Pressure rinse off the brightener.
2. Cover the deck. Any cleaner can have some issues on the TWP stain. Stright water would best.
3. Sorry, only way to remove sap is sanding.
Hi,
I stripped and sanded off the old finish off my cedar deck. Then I prepped with Gemini Cleaner/Brightner.
I started applying TWP 100 doing the wet on wet application. It rained heavily on the stain 8 hours after application. I now have water splotches.
Do I just stop now and wait until spring to fix it? Will using the Restore a Deck kit prep both the stained splotchy wood and the bare wood?
To fix you would need to strip it down. You can do this in the Spring: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Will the stripper do anything to cementitious stucco? Or will that have to be masked off with plastic?
Best to mask it.
I power washed and sanded with 80 grit cedar decking previously stained with Sherwin-Williams semi-transparent deck stain.
Is it necessary or is there any advantage to using the cleaner and brightener prior to staining with TWP 100. Your recommendation thank you.
See attached photo
Yes, you should always clean and brighten after any sanding to help the stain soak in deeper.
Can apply TWP1500 over TWP100?
As long as you prep with this: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
and you color choice is the same or darker.
I applied TWP 1500 stain to my deck about a year ago. I applied pecan mixed with dark walnut, 3:1 respectively. I cleaned and brightened the deck with restore a deck as directed. Can I apply a different color coat over the previous?
I was thinking about Rustic or Cedar. Thanks
No, you would have to strip it off if you want to switch colors: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
The deck was cleaned and brightened already. If I strip the deck do I have to clean and brighten it again after stripping?
Just brighten after the stripping.
Noe of the stains reviews mentioned the clear coat. Is there any difference in th quality or the specs for the clear 1500
Clear will not offer UV protection from graying. Must be tinted.
What is the best way to apply TWP to a cedar porch deck and posts? There is some discoloration from the sun, should we use the cleaner/brightner first? sand it ?
Clean and brighten for prep first. Apply the TWP with a stain pad or roller.
Finished installing a redwood deck around a pool in Las Vegas, NV about mid July. Had 2 months of 100+ days. Do you think it is ready to be stained? What type 100, 1500? 1 coat I am guessing? Starting to crack and splinter, should I sand it? About 850 sq/ft of deck with handrail, how many gallons do you think I will need?
Thanks In Advance,
Wayne
New wood needs 4-12 months. See this about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
No need to sand. Use the TWP 100 Series. About 5-7 gallons.
I stripped and brightened (using RAD and a power washer) a 22 year old cedar deck that had 6-8 year old Cabot’s Cedar toned semi-transparent (barely) on it. Applied TWP 1501 Cedartone by brush wet on wet and it soaked in well, taking 5+ gallons on a 625sq. ft. deck. Looks very nice (no shiny spots). Waited a week (weather 70’sday/60’s night) to put grill and furniture back on and it scuffed a little where I rolled the grill. Is that normal? Will it stop doing that?
TWP is a fully penetrating stain so it should not scuff the stain if done correctly. Grills though can put dents in the wood. Nothing you can do about that.
Prepping to stain a cedar deck: For the BRIGHTENING step, do we need to protect the concrete below? I mean, will the brightener discolor it at all? What about the wood siding?
Also, I see conflicting info on here about whether the brightening step needs 15 minutes or not. The container instructions say that it brightens on contact and says nothing about leaving it on for 15 min.
Does not discolor concrete. Hard to say if it will or not on the siding as that depends on if there is a coating there and what type it is. Yes it needs 15 minutes.
I have outdoor stairs that were stained with TWP when the house was built 6 years ago. I believe tge stain was 1530. The stairs are in direct sunlight and I restrained them a few years ago with no problem. This year, some nicks and cuts appeared on the edge of two of the stairs and I sanded the edges to bare wood to smooth out the nicks and cuts. The stain would not adhere to the sanded portion of the stair. I tried several light coats but all that happened was it got slightly darker but with a shine. Why won’t the stain adhere to the sanded portion?
You made the wood too smooth to the point that the stain cannot absorb. Sanding is not a good way to prep because of this.
What do I do to resolve this. Sand with 50 grit sandpaper to roughen surface?
Strip it all off, let it weather over the Winter, clean and brighten for prep in the Spring.
We installed new Western cedar decking and applied two coats of TWP 1501 two weeks ago. No rain or inclement weather for several days. We brushed and used deck sponge style rectangular applicators..after 20 mins or less we wiped off any excess. We then repeated for 2nd coat. What is happening is when it rains or the deck is washed off…the water that pools or sits on the surface with high surface tension will discolor the decking below (reference photos attached). The water will stay until it evaporates completely and once the water and decking is completely dry…the discoloration goes away. What is the issue here or how can we solve it without sanding this deck down? -Skyler
The issue seems that you did not follow new wood directions: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
You would have to remove, let weather, prep again, and apply one coat.
I’m sorry, I forgot to mentioned we cleaned the deck and used a brightener dilluted with the power washer.
Still needed to weather the wood and only one coat for new wood. Basically you did not prep correctly and over-applied the stain.
But on the can it does not require to weather. It indicates cleaning and brightener for new wood. Also, 2nd coat basically all got wiped off as excess. There’s no way we applied too much. We ended up using right at the amount that was indicated for approximate coverage.
Yes, on the can it does state 4-12 months of weathering for new wood. The pictures do show that the TWP did not fully soak into the wood grain.
After stripping and brightening I have alot of slivers/stickers. Can I sand then stain
Yes. Use 60-80 grit and lightly hand sand.
I have a covered (roof only) back porch that I just put new 3 1/4″ T&G Douglas fir boards on. The porch is not enclosed. I live in Cincinnati, OH. I have sanded with 80 grid and then 120 grid. the boards are clean, bright and they look beautiful. I have decided to use TWP 1500. So I won’t need a stripper, I don’t see where I need a brighter. Is there any other recommendations ? Thank You
Hello,
You prepped incorrectly. New wood needs to be weathered and prepped before staining: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Sanding higher than 80 grit also will not allow the stain to soak in correctly. Best to leave this as is until Spring and then do the proper Gemini Restore Kit for the prep.
The wood sat in the garage for 4 months. It is not treated wood. It is t&g flooring. Not deck boards.
Sitting in the garage is not weathering. It needs to sit outside and exposed.
How would 100 hold up on a 950 sf pressure treated dock located on the east coast?
Works great!
The dock is a year old, never stained. Would it require 1 or 2 coats?
Two coats applied wet on wet.
We have a treated pine fence that’s about a year old. We would like a darker stain such as walnut semi transparent. We are planning on spraying it on. We are just wondering if 100 or 1500 would be better? What is the difference in the 2 stains? We are located in the Midwest. The fence is about 1/2 in the sun 1/2 in the shade.
See her about the difference: https://www.twpstain.com/difference-between-twp-100-and-1500-series
Use the 1500 for the fence.
I purchased 3 gallons of TWP 1500 and ended up not using it. If it is all unopened, will it last until I will need it in 2-3 years? I will be storing it in my basement. Thanks for your help.
It should.
Getting ready to prep deck as products will be arriving on Wednesday. We need to walk on deck to enter house. What is minimum dry time? Our nights are starting to cool to the upper 40″s will this present a problem?
After stain, at least 4-8 hours. Cool temps at night will make it take longer to dry.
when painting new bamboo, do we need to prime or rough up the bamboo. thanks so much
No.
This is Don Miller with East Coast Fence, in Cocoa Fl. We are a Cali Bamboo Dealer and I Really need some advice on the best Product and Application to stain Bamboo. Please get back to me. Thanks
You would want the TWP 300 Series.
We have purchased all the products to prep cedar dock. Along with California red 1500 5 gal and bug juice. My question do we mix the entire 5 gallons stain with bug juice if we will not be using entire 5 gallons for this project
Mix it all in.
I live in Northern California where we often have fog in the summer so I tried to time my deck refinishing for a dry period. I have a redwood deck that has previously been stained with TWP, albiet it so long ago that I now have a lot of bare wood. I prepped my deck to restain it using your deck cleaner and brightener. I’m planning on staining the deck tomorrow (on Saturday) and just discovered that there is a slight chance of rain on Monday morning (depending on which sites I consult forecasts range from no rain to a 40% chance of between .1 to .25 of an inch). If I wait any longer I’ll be beyond my two week time frame and given other commitments it could be several weeks until I can get to it.
What do I need to know in terms of what happens if I go for it and stain and then it actually does rain slightly?
It can take rain in about 12 hours. Earlier than that it may dry spotty.
Hello. I have some KDAT yellow pine that has been stored in my garage for about 2 years. Can I stain it after installation or do you recommend leaving it exposed to the elements for 6 months prior to staining n
See this: https://twpstainhelp.com/kdat-and-twp-wait-period-for-new-wood/