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Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
We are here to help you with your TWP exterior deck or wood restoration project for 2024!
TWP is an advanced wood preservative/protectant registered by the EPA. Performance and longevity can vary though depending on the wood type, how the wood is prepped, the age of wood, and how the TWP is applied. We want everyone who has decided to use TWP 100, 1500, or 200 Series to have the best possible results.
TWP Stain Tips and Help
When asking questions please give us some information about your wood restoration project:
- What structure is your wood? Examples would be: Deck, Wood Siding, Fence, etc
- What species is the wood? Examples: Treated Pine, Cedar, Redwood, Ipe, etc
- Is the wood new or older than 1 year?
- Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Please specify brand name and type of stain used: Examples: Solid stain, Semi-Transparent Stain, etc.
- Any additional info that would be useful
Once you supply us with the information, we will able to give you advice as to how to prep your wood and any needed instructions for the TWP application.
Please ask your questions in the comment area.
Thanks
Rebuilding 1000 sq ft deck with kiln dried 5/4 cedar…
How long to wait before applying semi-transparent Cape Cod Gray…How much will I need…any prep required on this new wood…
See this link for tips on TWP and Kiln-dried wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/kdat-and-twp-wait-period-for-new-wood/
Can I mix 1501 Cedartone & 1503 Dark Oak together to end up with a color between the two?
I’d like to end up with a stain a little darker than the Cedartone & a little lighter than the Dark Oak.
Yes, you can mix colors together!
I have a composite deck built in 2000. It is a very faded dull gray. We want to put some life back into it and saw your product. Can I stain the gray deck with one of your color stains or should I choose your gray stain. We would prefer not to do the gray if possible.
Thank you
TWP is not designed to be applied to composite decking.
Hello, brand new deck with top grade pressure treated pine. The wood is straight from Home Depot and is very green/wet. My deck builders, who have been doing this for 20+ years put the deck boards as close together as possible. They say when they dry they will shrink and gaps will appear. According to them, the sweet spot to stain a deck is in about 2-3 weeks when 1/8” cracks start to appear between the deck boards. Wait too long and those 1/8” gaps will turn into 1/4” gaps. But I read on your web site to wait 4-6 months? Also, water is not beading up on the pressure treated pine – do I still need some type of prep on these new boards?
You cannot stain this now. 4-12 months of weathering and you have to prep. See this for tips: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Thank you for your quick reply! So I am 95% sold on your product. I am also considering Behr semi-transparent deck stain/sealer. Reading their web site, they don’t require a 4-12 month wait. While I’m sure you don’t want to educate me on your competition – I am sure you are familiar with their product. Can you speak to what makes TWP different in that you recommend 4-12 months where as Behr recommends cleaning to remove mill wax and then proceeding directly to staining brand new wood? Does the fact that my deck is GA with direct sun make a difference? How will I know when the deck is ready to apply TWP?
Behr is an acrylic filming stain that is prone to major issues with peeling and reapplication. Do a Google search for “Behr Deck Stain Reviews and Ratings”. You will see and read numerous complaints about. Many videos of peeling.
Where you are located does not matter. Still needs to weather. You should be good to stain this deck sometime in late summer. Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit and just one coat the first time.
I used the 115 stain last year on my deck. The deck was sanded prior to coating and two coats were put down after one year the area exposed to sunlight looks terrible compare to the unexposed areas. Does this mean I need to re-coat every year? Would send a picture but google won’t let me copy and paste the picture off my phone.
Your issue is more than likely due to sanding the wood. That is not the proper way to prep and will hinder the TWPs ability to soak in correctly. It is if you made the wood new. See this for tips on new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Not sure if my previous comment was seen since I haven’t seen a reply. But the problem can’t be related to sanding because the whole floor was sanded with a commercial sander and the only area which looks terrible is where direct sunlight hits the floor. I believe I need the find a stain/coating system with more UV protection (assuming this product has UV protection).
Yes, it can be related to the sander as that will hinder the absorption and then the sunny (UV oxidation) areas will cause havoc with this.
TWP being a penetrating stain and is impossible to peel as long as it fully soaks in the wood. It can only have issues like this if it was unable to soak into the wood and dries on top of the wood. This is what happened in your scenario and seems to be related to your power sanding as over sanding will reduce the penetration.
Here are a couple of pictures to show the difference where sun hit and where it was protected by a rug in the first picture and a planter base in the second picture. Both areas had two coats of stain.
Hello, yes those pictures do show an over application as the stain dried on top of the wood to the point it could not soak in. Most likely due to the sanding. That is why you have to wear in the exposed areas.
So are you telling that the areas where the sun hits is OK. I think it looks terrible. That’s the issue, not whether it’s sanded correctly. Your telling me that this product is going to look bad every year and there is nothing I can do about it. Thank for the help.
No that is not what we said. The issue you are having as mentioned previously is due to over sanding the wood too smooth. Power sanding is not the correct way to prep as it can create issues with penetration. Best to use a stain stripper and pressure washing for the prep. Brighten the wood after. This will leave the wood in a very porous state so it can fully soak in. When you apply the TWP, make sure it fully soaks into the wood as well. More is not better when it comes to application
The issue you are having is not a TWP stain issue but an improper prep.
So if I strip your stain and power wash, and the stain soaks in as you state, will TWP guarantee the finish not to fade in one year as mine has done? Just a note, I applied two coats because the first coat absorbed so much stain.
Stains always fade through the years. This is normal and cannot be avoided. It will not wear though as long as it is done correctly.
6 foot cedar fence (AC2 posts and rails) completed June-December 2017.
Bought the stain (1500 series Honeytone) December 2017, but ran out of good weather. No coating on fence.
Looks like I need to use cleaner/brightener now? And will the stain be able to be stirred (or should I take it in to a paint store to have it mixed?)
Any other fence tips, please let me know!
Yes, you will need to prep with the Gemini Restore Kit. Use a paint drill mixer to mix the stain or take to a store.
I am guessing the people who applied TWP stain did not prep properly. It has been over 20 hours and it is still not dry. Actually still wet in some areas. What do I do? It is 55 degrees and sunny.
See this for tips: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-is-spotty-or-shiny/
I have a deck that I have only used TWP on previously. What do I have to do to prep this wood before applying TWP again.
Prep with the Gemini Restore kit first: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Hello, I have a log sided house (2,190 sq.ft.) located in the upper North Country of New Hampshire that needs to be re-stained. My Benjamin Moore dealer has advised me that TWP is what I want to use.
So, my first question is what should I use to clean it? Should I just power wash it with plain water?
The weather conditions are very cold and very windy 7/12 months. So my second question is which TWP product should I use?
I would be grateful for any information you can provide.
Thank you for your time.
Hello,
What has it been stained with previously? That coating will need to come off. Best to use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener kit while pressure washing: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
You will need the TWP 1500 for NW: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series
I believe the previous owner used Thompson Water Seal.
Thank you for the quick reply!
In 2016 we put in a new Cedar fence. We stained with Thompson Waterseal (tinted on railings and post, clear on slat inserts).
In 2017 it started pealing pretty badly. We are ready to redo it and want to use quality products. Would you suggest using the RAD Stripper to strip the old stain off then the brightener? After that would you suggest using the 1500 or 100 series? We live in Utah. I have attached pictures of the fence.
Strip and brighten is correct. Stain with TWP 1500 Series.
Why would 1500 be better than 100 Series? Just wondering. Thanks for responding so fast!
Slightly better UV protection for a vertical fence.
Last summer I put TWP100 on yellow wood deck that was built several years ago. I used Gemini restore a deck cleaner and brightener and finished with 2 coats TWP100 wet on wet wiping excess as necessary. Should I apply a maintenance coat this summer? Portions of the deck get hot afternoon Missouri sun. If so, should I use the cleaner and brightener same process as for initial application for the maintenance coat? Thanks in advance for your help.
No need to do a coat this year. Do it next year. Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit.
We installed a 20 x 24 pressure-treated deck in 2008. Shamefully, we admit to never sealing, staining, or applying anything. We live in Oklahoma, where the summers are hot and dry. Surprisingly, the deck is still holding up rather well, considering.
We have cleaned the deck with a pressure washer, and would like to use one of the TWP products to stain and seal in one application preferably water-based, unless you can convince us that oil-based would be better. Some of the boards will be replaced, so we understand there will be a color difference. Please advise which product would be our best choice.
Thank you.
Use the TWP 100 Series. It is oil based. We do not sell a water-based and this 100 is the best option.
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series
I have a Bailey Marine Dock about 20 years old the deck planks are treated 2”X12”X12’. I am not sure the wood type may be yellow pine. The surface of most planks is good but splintering a good bit. Professionals tell me I have a decade or more of life in the wood planks. I want to preserve what I have and try to reduce splintering on the surface. Baily Marine engineers recommend TWP Cedartone.
They say two coats, the first followed by a second 15 minutes later. And power wash the wood first. Do you have any further recommendations? My principle concern is also minimizing splinters. Will the TWP I have selected seal the surface of the wood and reduce splinters? Do you think you have a better product to seal and reduce splintering? Thanks for the advice.
Bill Seegar
Easton, Maryland
Use this prep kit while pressure washing for best results: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
TWP is a penetrating stain. It does not film on top of the wood. A penetrating stain cannot “lock down” splinters. The reason you do not want a filming stain is that it will peel.
Want to stain a new never stained treated wood fence and want to use TWP 100 cedar tone is this ok
See this about new wood: See this for more info: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I have a shadowbox style cedar fence, roughly 18 months old and now weathered gray. I never stained it but plan to stain it with the TWP 100 Cedartone. Should I use the cleaner/brightner kit to get the gray out or will just a bleach solution work? Will that require a pressure washer? When using a pump sprayer to apply, do I need to cover my grass to keep from killing it? I used stainless steel nails, will the stain react with those?
Yes on the Gemini prep kit. Use the kit while pressure washing for best results. It will not harm grass or stainless steel screws.
I used the stripper and brightener on some posts last fall and I have a lot left over, will that work?
You shouldn’t use a stripper on an unstained fence.
Stripped a Redwood deck last spring and stained with 1500 series TWP, wet on wet. Turned out awesome and can’t wait to see how it looks this spring (once the snow melts!). What do I do this year for maintenance? Thanks much. It was so much work stripping this very large deck and I was beyond relieved when I applied your product which made the back-breaking work well worth it. It turned out beautiful.
Most likely you will not need to do anything until next year. When applying another coat, see this for tips: https://twpstainhelp.com/applying-a-maintenance-coat-of-twp/
It’s been two years since I stripped and stained my deck with your product. I want to stain it again before this summer. If I use your restore product, does it completely remove the old stain (starting all over again?). I only plan to stain the decking and not the pickets – I’m concerned about the restore product getting on other areas (dripping down the side of the decking) and messing up the old stain that I don’t need to re-do.
That would depend on how deteriorated the stain is. Technically the Gemini Kit is not a stripper but it can remove the old stain if it has deteriorated significantly.
I have a new pressure treated pine deck. I’s now in the seasoning phase. I like the natural color and am inclined to select TWP Natural or Honeytone color. The previous deck got a lot of UV damage (checking, splitting, and splintering). Would a darker TWP color do a better job of resisting UV damage?
The darker the color means it typically holds UV protection longer. See this about new wood and tips: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I have a new pine fence that was installed 3 weeks ago. Live in Charleston, SC. Want to use best semi transparent oil based stain. How long should I wait to stain and how best to prep for staining? What’s best stain/sealer?
Thanks
See this about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
That will answer your questions. Use the TWP 100 Series.
We personally do not sell the 300 Series but you can find it by searching for it on the internet. There is no such thing as the TWP 332 Olive Brown though.
If you want to switch, you would have to sand the 300 Series off for the prep. Use the TWP 1500 Series after.
ready to purchase second 5 gal twp 100 . the first was used on the deck . this one will be used to re-stain log cabin exterior . what is the proper re-staining procedure and how do i get a color match. i believe the previous owner used cedar tone (found a empty can ) but can’t be sure. it seems that the color has darkened. thanks.
Prep first with the Gemini Restore Kit and pressure washing: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
As for color, we do not color match but we do have samples for testing: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
I’m so confused. I have a 12 year old redwood gate that was originally finished with polyurethane. I’ve sanded it very well and power washed it. It’s in good condition and now I want to put a product on it that is NOT polyurethane as it peeled and cracked over the years. I just want the wood to be well protected. I live in southern Arizona where we obviously get a lot of sun and heat and when it rains, it really rains. I don’t want to change the color dramatically but a true redwood is very nice. I’ve done a lot of research and many sights keep recommending your products. Can you please help me decide which will be the absolute best of your products for my project? Thanks very much.
Use the TWP 1500 Series in any color that you like. It is a penetrating stain so it will not peel: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series
We are considering using Twp on a 40 year old cedar spided that has never been stained but is in surprising good shape because it is in the forest. If we apply twp can the subsequent owner apply any type ( latex, acrylic….) stain to the house?
Thx
No, you cannot apply a different brand/type of stain over the TWP. You would want to stay with the TWP going forward or remove it if ever switching brands.
We installed new vertical cedar siding and fascia 3 years ago and stained it with TWP 101 Cedartone Natural. Looks fantastic! However the fascia that is exposed to the sun is fading and other areas that are not in the sun are darkening. What is the best method to maintain and refresh it?
Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit and apply one light coat.
I’m in the midst of refinishing some exterior old growth redwood siding, I have used TWP semi transparent stain in the past. I would like to know what are the compatible wood fillers to be used with TWP stains..? Do you offer compatible wood fillers with every solid-color stain? Semitransparent..?
Wood fillers will not work with TWP stains as they are semi-transparent in color. The filler will not “stain” to blend and will stand out looking very blotchy when done.
TWP does not come in a solid stain.
I used to 1500 last year on my cedar deck, looked great. Now I have a lot of grime and mildew on the deck boards and top rail. I would like to restrain this year using the same stain. Will I have to strip or just use the Gemini restore kit?
Gemini Restore Kit for the prep while pressure washing.
I have 5 gallons of 1500 honeytone. The color is to light. Can I mix it with cedar to make it darker?
Yes, you can intermix colors. You might want to look at Pecan 120 to darken it up though as the Cedartone might not make that much difference when added.
I have some untreated wood columns that I’m planning on using to support a cover over a deck. I would like to use twp stain as the preservative for it but I have a question on application. You say to let it weather for 4-12 months before applying the stain, but if I do that, how can I apply the stain to the wood that is covered by the fasteners used to secure the columns?
You do not need to. Only need to apply where the wood is exposed to the elements.
does TWP need to be stored above 50 degrees or is it okay that it’s been out in the cold but I’m going to apply it once it’s over 50 degrees outside
It must be stored in a temperature controlled room. It cannot freeze.
Hello. Just installed cedar fence, 1/2 x 6″ x 6′ slats on 2×4 pt runners, screwed to 4×4 pt posts. Can be treated now? What product? Saw 2 different answers in help, 1 says series 100 and other says 1500. Also saw 2 diff answers about timing. Your help is greatly appreciated. Also want to spray on with low prssure spray as 1 side is up against chain link fence that is 4′ high making brush or roller impossible. Thanks! Bruce
See this about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
If you can do now or if you have to wait depends on the wood and if it is smooth cut or rough sawn cut.
Use the TWP 1500 Series.
We are staining western cedar fresh from the saw mill. Some wood is older cuts some. We want to apply Bora Care pesticide. Will this affect effectiveness of your stain? I know dry time for Bora Care is 72 hours. Thanks
If the wood is smooth cut, you cannot stain right away: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
The Bora Care will not hinder the TWP stains.
I am prepping a new cedar fence (installed 12 months ago) to apply TWP 101 Cedar stain. I will wet with bleach solution, wash, let dry and apply Restore-A-Deck all before applying stain. My question is – the fence has galvanized steel post – should I wrap these to protect them from any of the applications I have mentioned?
The Gemini RAD prep products should not harm the galvanized steel. There is no need for the bleach when you are using the Gemini Restore A Deck prep.
Thank you, so the TWP 101 will not discolor the post? It will need to sprayed on due to the configuration of the boards (pic. attached)
You should avoid the TWP on the posts as it will leave a stained film on them. Either stain around the posts or wipe them clean ASAP after applying.
Due to some poor planning on my part and unlucky weather, I’m worried I’m not going to be able to stain my deck before the winter kicks in. I’m located just west of Boston. I have a cedar deck that I prepped per your instructions about six weeks ago. I have TWP 1500 ready to go. But every time the temperature has been above 50, it has rained within a day.
At this point, what is my best option? Stain it despite the cold? Cover it with a tarp for the winter? This Sunday the forecast is for a high of 47 degrees but it’s going to rain again and will go down to 39 degrees at nigh. I’m considering staining anyway with a tarp set up to protect it from the rain, but will be tricky and not sure it’s a good idea anyway.
Thanks!
Leave it alone until Spring. Do not cover. Redo the prep and stain than. It will be fine through one Winter.
Hello,
I’m looking to stain a 15 year old pressure treated pine deck, which is at ground level (no verticals) this coming Spring 2019. Question is I have done minor repairs (filling holes, replacing boards, etc.) over time, and there are some color differences due to wood putty, newer boards. Will TWP cover these differences?
What stain TWP 100 or 1500 would you recommend? Location is Eastern, PA.
Thanks
TWP will not cover or “stain” to blend wood putty. It will show through and wood filler should never be used to exterior wood when using a semi-transparent deck stain like TWP.
Use the TWP 1500 Series of PA.
Thank you. The wood “putty” I used is actually called Durhams water putty.
I had to use it to fill cracks/splinters in the wood. It dries very hard, and is off-white in color. Would it be best for me to try multiple “patch” coats of TWP 1500 to cover these areas prior to the “finish coats”?
Thanks
There is not a way for the TWP to darken or blend this putty. It will unfortunately stand out as the off-white color where ever the putty was used.
OK. Thank you. What would you think if I just touched up the spots with an oil based paint that kind of matches the existing deck color, then put the TWP 1500 over it to finish?
You cannot apply the TWP over a paint. You could try an interior wood stain in a darker brown. Like Minwax. See if the putty takes that. Then Apply the TWP over that.
Thanks again. I’ll give that a try.
We have painted our deck and it looks blotchy. Is this because we didn’t strip it correctly?
Yes, that is correct. Your prep was not done correctly and the blotchiness is due to this.
I’m meant to say that we used two 1500 series, not paint. Does this still hold true? Our whole house and deck is redwood. Maybe we should have cleaned this area better as well? It had a type of white wash.
Yes. Your prep was incorrectly done for both areas.
I have a cedar deck that was stained with TWP 101 a couple of years ago. I power washed the deck and intended to use the Gemini restore kit and then apply TWP 101. But within a day of power washing, the temperature has dropped too low to stain and I don’t know if it will ever be warm enough long enough to finish the job. Will the deck be okay until spring?
Yes, it will be fine. BTW, you use the Gemini Restore Kit while pressure washing.
Is pressure treated wood considered new wood or can I stain now.
Is it new wood? Then see this: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Does not matter the wood type.
I have a new open trailer with marine plywood that I would like to seal with TWP100as I have it on hand. Are there any issues with using this on new marine grade plywood?
No issues. See this about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
We recently used TWP 120 (Pecan) on our siding. The siding had been previously stained with an unknown semi-transparent stain and a varnish coat on top of that. We took it down to the wood with sanding, cleaned and brightened the wood and then applied the TWP 120.
The project looks good – but my surprise is the color turned out to be darker than pictures would indicate and even the test samples I applied. It also has stronger tones of red and orange than I was expecting.
It still looks good, I think, but I’m wondering why the color and shade was so different?
The final color looks correct for Pecan. Colors will always vary based on the wood type and porosity. See here for some Pecan color comparables:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-120-pecan
Looks great!
If it rains 1 time on my deck after ive cleaned & brightened it… .. if i let it dry for 48hrs, can i still stain with twp 100, or would i hafta brighten again? Can’t seem to get 4-5 dry days in a row this fall here in VA.
Just wait 48 hours after the rain stops. No need to redo prep.
Hi,
I have a pressure treated pine wood fence that has weathered for 8 months now. The fence boards are 3/4″ thick vs. the more common 5/8″. They are more smooth than the standard boards. Contractor did a poor job power washing it after 8 months and boards now have ‘furring’. More in some areas than others. I need to stain 2700sq.ft. and I do not want to have to sand the boards due to the furring.
I live in NC and can order either TWP 100 or 1500 series.
1. I do not want boards to turn ‘gray’. Is there a difference between the 100 and 1500 series? Is one better than the other if I have a choice to pick either?
2. Will applying stain with Graco Magnum X5 spayer and back brushing any ‘drippage’ cover the ‘furring’, or will the ‘furring’ show as light ‘powder’ on top of the stained boards?
3. I am split between cedar and pecan. The color chart does not show that the cedar has the ‘orange’ tint to it as many cedar stains do. If I want to stay away from the ‘orange’ look, would you say that Pecan is similar without the ‘orange’? Or will pecan be darker?
4. Can someone who has applied TWP stain to weathered, smooth mill, pressure treated fence tell me what the coverage one gallon has? I am reading anywhere from 150-400 sq.ft under different sites including manufacturer’s which is a huge difference in trying to figure out how much I would need to order.
5. How long would it take to dry after application in about 50-60 degree temps/Oct/Nov weather?
6. Do I need to use a moister reader to make sure boards are completely dry before applying? What is recommended reading?
7. I am planning to apply this stain myself (no helper for other side of fence), thus I am planning on working on 3 ft. sections at a time, back brush and then go to other side of fence to do the same. Will any drippage onto the unfinished side while working on one side blend when I get to the unfinished side or will it show drip marks? Shall I wipe clean (with a rag) any drip marks before applying a fresh coat on unfinished side?
8. What type of tip for a sprayer do you recommend I use for ‘standard’ 6″ boards?
Thank you for your assistance.
I have uploaded photos of fence after it was installed, then after 8 months of weathering and power washing and up and up close photo to show ‘furring’ after power wash.
/M.D
1. Both last the same. The difference is what is allowed in your state based on VOC laws.
2. No, it does not show as a powder.
3. Color varies widely based on your wood. Best to get samples to test. Pecan can be less orange but can still have an orange tint for certain wood.
4. About 150-200 sq feet per gallon for the first coat and 200-300 sq feet for the second coat if needed.
5. 12-24 hours.
6. No.
7. Just use a brush or stain pad to catch any drips within 20-30 minutes.
8. No idea as to what your Graco sprayer has for tip sizes. Just use a wide fan and you are fine.
hi …
I am going to re-stain a red wood deck with 1500 redwood. I built the deck new and stained it with TWP about 18 months ago. I had purchased 5 gallons and have about 1/2 of that still left. It is very thick from being in the can a long time. What should I thin it with?
Best regards,
David DeLancey
You cannot thin it and it has gone bad. The shelf life of an opened pail is 12 months.
I am restoring a covered front porch, with railings and columns, that was made of pressure treated wood 19 years ago with no maintenance since then, in upstate NY. I used your cleaner and brightener, with a pressure washer. I sanded with 40 grit and then with 80 grit; so it is fully prepped. I am using TWP1500 cedartone (5 gal), and have sprayers, pads, and brushes.
I fell behind schedule and it is now late October, with a cold spell, so instead of highs in the 50s and low 60s it will barely reach 50 degrees for the next 10 days, with variable rain forecasts.
Considering that this is a covered porch that won’t receive direct rain; at how low a temperature can I safely stain with TWP1500? The cleaned and sanded wood looks like new and I would hate to lose the benefit of all the prep work by waiting until next year.
You can stain in the 50s during the day but you cannot let the temps drop below freezing at night. Do it first thing in the am. It will take longer to dry and cure in these temps. Maybe a few days or possibly longer until full cure. Rain should not harm it after 12 hours of application.
Post a pic when done!
Do you make a pecan stain that is a solid color ?
We do not.
Last month our painter used TWP 200 series in Slate Gray to stain our cedar sidewall shingles on our garage. There was a lot of dried pigment at the bottom of the 5 gallon can that could not be stirred up into the stain. Quite a lot of the pigment was rock hard at the bottom of the 5 gallon can. One coat of stain was applied but it looks like the shingles could use another coat since there was so much dried up pigment at the bottom of the can. The labels on the can indicated it was manufactured in July of 2017 even though I just bought it in September of 2018. Can a second coat of the 200 series in Slate Gray be applied? If yes, how long do we need to wait to put on the second coat? Thank you.
You can put on a second coat now since it is vertical wood. As for the issue with the TWP pigment, we did respond earlier to you about this and suggested you call Amteco/Gemini directly for help.
Good to know. Thank you. I called Gemini directly at the number provided by TWP but I haven’t received a call back. The Tech Guy was busy so I had to leave my name and number and wait for him to call me back. We’ll see if I get a call back.
I stained my deck for first time after 5 months of weathering. After 24 hours, deck floor is sticky. What should I do?
Let it continue to dry for another few days.
Want to stain my fence with 1500 series oil based tomorrow and temp will be 65 degree for two days but down around 36 at night . Will I be ok to stain the fence being that scold at night ?
Yes, but it cannot drop below freezing if the stain is still wet.
Not a question but we just finished putting on ten gallon of cedar tone 101 oil base with a pump up sprayer and back brushing it and it worked and looked amazing . Thanks for a great product .
Great! Send a picture if you have time.
Hello. I’ve been immersed in restoring my cedar deck over last 5 weeks. The deck is 20 years old, in need of surface restoration. I’ve stripped older TWP 100 Cedartone from nearly all surfaces, 21 gallons worth. Once stripped it became obvious deep sanding was necessary, which I accomplished with floor, belt, orbital and blocks. Where this was done, stain went in deep, wet on wet required. Looks incredible.
But the lower portion of horizontal surface was stripped, brightened 5-6 weeks ago. It’s greyed out. And need of extensive surface sanding.
I’ve run out of time and ideal weather window. Should I leave as is, tackle next spring, or will the presently weathered wood be damaged from a Michigan winter and Spring, I can light pole sand now, should I apply a thin coat to help protect through Winter, knowing I will sand it off next year, or leave as is?
Leave as is and restore it in the Spring. One Winter will not harm the wood.
Hi. I have an older redwood fence and would llke to stain/seal it and try to keep the flying termites away. What is the best product with a redwood color? TwP 100 or 1500 or some other product? Is the best way to apply it a roller and brush or low pressure sprayer? Thanks.
You can use the TWP 1500 for this. See this for applications help: https://twpstainhelp.com/tips/application-instructions/how-to-apply-twp-1500/
Older redwood deck in San Francisco. Last work done approximately 5 years ago. After prepping (bleach to strip, power washing, sanding), Painter stained one coat with TWP 1500 Series Dark Oak. On edge of deck it is shiny, indicating overapplication of stain, probably because sides of deck were also stained leading to double coat just there. Lots of spots also on horizontal surface. None of the shiny spots are sticky and it has been 4 days since application. What are options? Can you try mineral spirits on shiny spots if dry? or only when wet?
He did not prep correctly and over applied. You can try the mineral spirits but the shine will dull down over time. Give it a few weeks and it will be better.
What would have been correct prep? Also, why will the shine dull down over time? Is this part of the curing process? It’s been 4.5 days since coat was applied.
Thanks for your response. I will go get mineral spirits.
Bleach is not a stripper. You should have stripped with this: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Shine just dulls from the sun, weathering, rain, etc. Mainly since TWP, is not designed to be shiny that the overapplication shine goes away mostly or completely.
If I use mineral spirits I will need to put another light coat of TWP 1500 over the section I used mineral spirits on. Is that correct?
No. It will not need another coat.
Painter put “stainable” wood putty on deck rail, then put TWP 1500 series on top. Wood putty wasn’t stainable. Sanded off the wood putty and then restained with TWP 1500 but what we have now is pictured. Can we just resand the entire rail (not just the part that had the wood putty) and then reapply TWP 1500 or should we use the wood stripper JUST on the horizontal surface of the rails, sand and then reapply the stain? We want at least the horizontal surface of the rail to have a consistent stain color. Thanks so much!
You cannot spot strip just the top of the rails as it will get all over the rest of the deck. Try to power sand the entire board(s) that is affected.
BTW wood filler never works for exterior wood and semi-transparent stains.
A couple of days ago we finish staining our deck with your product and a couple of hours after finishing it started raining for 2 days none stop. Upon inspection there were some raindrops on the area we last stained. What would you recommend doing to eliminate the raindrop stains? We applied the stain to pt pine with humidity lower than 15%
You cannot spot fix. You may need to strip all and start over.