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Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
We are here to help you with your TWP exterior deck or wood restoration project for 2024!
TWP is an advanced wood preservative/protectant registered by the EPA. Performance and longevity can vary though depending on the wood type, how the wood is prepped, the age of wood, and how the TWP is applied. We want everyone who has decided to use TWP 100, 1500, or 200 Series to have the best possible results.
TWP Stain Tips and Help
When asking questions please give us some information about your wood restoration project:
- What structure is your wood? Examples would be: Deck, Wood Siding, Fence, etc
- What species is the wood? Examples: Treated Pine, Cedar, Redwood, Ipe, etc
- Is the wood new or older than 1 year?
- Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Please specify brand name and type of stain used: Examples: Solid stain, Semi-Transparent Stain, etc.
- Any additional info that would be useful
Once you supply us with the information, we will able to give you advice as to how to prep your wood and any needed instructions for the TWP application.
Please ask your questions in the comment area.
Thanks
We’re going to use TWP 100 series (Pecan) on our deck. It’s 40’ish years old. Not in the best shape, we’ve replaced some boards but couldn’t afford to replace more.
We’re still working on trying to remove all the old 3 layers of paint, then dark brown solid stain on the bottom. Both who did the deck have passed so I’m not sure what they put on it, nor the type of wood, other than pressure treated. We still have some stain that CitriStrip, of course wouldn’t get up, used it for the paint and it did well, & Woodrich Stripper/Cleaner (which said it would get up old solid stain but didn’t even get the paint up) & Brightener. Did Woodrich twice to no avail. Have tried sanding again with palm & random orbital hand sanders. Going to rent a sander this weekend and see if that’ll get rest of stain up & if any paint has been missed. Any advice on anything else to try?
We received our 5 gallons of semi-transparent, though we know it’s not going to be like it would with new wood, we’ve always wanted that type of stained deck, didn’t want to go solid again. If we do miss a speck of paint or stain, is it most likely going to fail, start peeling and then peeling would spread out, sooner than later?
As far as the application, do I cut in the edges before husband does the deck on both coats or just the first one? It says to wait 30 minutes between coats, I have a lot of health issues, would it be dry enough for me to sit down and scoot around to cut in if I have to do it for both coats? If not, how should I try to cut in when I can’t stand very long at a time due to neuropathy? We purchased shoe covers and I have a clothes overall to wear if sitting down.
I saw you recommend a pad for wet on wet application. We got a brush, any tips on using that for the staining not already listed in your articles? Husband has bad back (having spinal fusion surgery in a couple weeks) and thought that might be best method for him to use.
Thank you very much, you are greatly appreciated!
Try a drum sander maybe to remove all. After the sanding, you should clean and brighten with the Gemini Restore Kit for the final prep and only apply one coat of the TWP this year since you are power sanding. Do another light coat as needed, 12-18 months later. Get a stain pad. Works much better and allows the stain to be pushed into the wood grain. Brushes take much longer to apply and do not have the penetration advantage.
Thank you very much for the valuable information and your time. I really appreciate you!
Pecan (100 series here) is a gorgeous color! I am partial to red tones/mahogany, but have to give kudos to husband for great different choice!! TWP is an amazing product, first time staining and we were very apprehensive but TWP was so easy, after initial stroke on railing we were very comfortable with the project. Though we weren’t able to do all recommendations due to money & time before his surgery, it still came out great considering what age/condition of deck we’re working with. It’ll only get better next year with better prep per your instructions.
Thank you TWP for superb product and help forum!
Thanks and glad it turned out great!
One more question: Rain is looming on Monday. I should have bought the Gemini kit but did not. See question below. If I need to wash before staining, can I use TSP?
No, do not use TSP. Use a deck cleaner and then a wood brightener after the sanding.
I have an 1100 sq ft deck in butte mt, with old stain. Have been progressively sanding it off, but it has rained on the sanded part. As long as I let it dry 48 hours, is it ok to stain with 1500 on sanded, then wetted, but now dry wood? Thank you.
Yes, as long as it is dry when you apply.
I applied the 1500 stain to our deck 3 years ago. The deck needs to be reapplied now. Can I use deck cleaner or does it have to be stripped before reapplying the 1500?
Use the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit for this.
I have a pressure treated deck that will need to be stripped and brightened before staining. The deck floorboards need to be sanded to smooth out some rough spots. When do I sand, before stripping and brightening or after? Thanks.
Before.
I have a deck previously stained with tsp 1500 two years ago and I want to switch to tsp 100. What do I need to do to accomplish that?
You would need to strip and brighten for the prep when switching series: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
I have a deck previously stained with two 1500 2 years ago. I would like to switch to tsp 100. What do i need to do?
Thanks for your very informative website, best we’ve seen yet. We’re just now building a 1600 sq ft (plus large garage/shop) eastern white pine log home (from Northeastern Log Homes) in central VA. Logs were air dried 6-12 months before milling. Purlins & ceiling beams are eastern white spruce. Will likely be using your products to treat/stain the entire project. In our case, what do you recommend for:
1) Wait time before cleaning / staining exterior?
2) Type of exterior stain product (1500?)
3) Insect treatment: Add bug juice to stain, or do separate treatment, or something else (borate)??
4) Any treatment for underside of the flooring (which will be exposed to a conditioned crawl space with concrete flooring and block walls filled with concrete)?
5)Exterior color: Want to avoid yellow/gold/orange tones…Initially thought we would choose another product (Q-8 Barn Gray) but feel your product would be better, just not sure if you have a color we want. Thinking maybe Pecan or Natural…
If it ends up orange-ish, everyone will hear me crying for miles around 🙁 !!!
6)Interior of D-logs & V-match: Thinking of just doing polyurethane to treat but retain natural color…any reason(s) why / why not to do so?
7)Is it possible to treat interior ceiling & high wall wood prior to installation for ease of reaching it?
8)Will be happy to post pics of finished product. Hopefully soon! Foundation is in right now, logs going up this week.
Thank you!
1. A few months after install.
2. Use the TWP 1500 Series.
3. Use the Bug Juice if you want to help with insects.
4. No need to treat the undersides.
5. Get some samples to test: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
In addition, see our photo galleries: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series-stain-colors-and-photo-albums/
6. Not sure on what is best for interior treatment. Our experience is only for the exterior.
7. Same as #6
8. We love pics!
Thank you for your quick response. Much appreciated!
I just recently finished a pergola built entirely from rough sawn cedar. We prestained (inside 30×40 garage) all of the lumber prior to building.twp100 pecan 120 was used.All lumber was dry well below 15% moisture content.2 coats wet on wet was brush applied. All material sat inside for at least a week before constructing pergola.Seemed dry.
It’s been 1 month since completion. We are experiencing rain water washing the stain coloring down on the cream colored metal furniture below.It wipes off the metal furniture parts easy enough but are concerned with the cushions and concrete surface it all sits on. I have the same situation below a 2nd story deck above a spa, furniture and concrete. Any suggestions? Per your instructions none of the rough sawn cedar was washed prior to stain application.
Thankyou, note: everything seems to bead up and repell rain water just fine though color seems to be fading .
It may have been over applied. TWP is a full curing stain so it does dry fully but if over applied, the excess stain can have an issue soaking in fully. This should not continue though. Try soaking the wood with water to remove any excess stain. It will get to a point where no more will run off.
Thank you for your quick response. I will proceed as you suggest.
I have a cedar garden potting table that I have allowed to age over the summer (3-4 months). It is already starting to get some dark areas on the wood. I would like to stain before winter. What preparation should I use and which is the best stain, 100 or 1500….I like stains that are semi-transparent and easy to reapply.
Thanks!
Use this for prep: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Stain with the TWP 1500 Series. Just one coat.
just bought 5 gallons of twp 100. i can save considerably if i use untreated lumber on outside deck railing . Will your product instill the same preservative properties as treated lumber ? is this recommended ?
Do not use untreated pine wood on exterior decks. It will rot internally.
Does the 1500 stain leave a slick surface on a cedar deck when it gets wet from rain? Is there a recommended product that would give a slip resistant surface that can be added to the stain?
TWP is a penetrating stain that does not film on top of the wood. It will not create a slippery surface. It is impossible to add anything to it.
Would TWP 1500 be Ok to use on a new cedar picnic table?
Yes but see this about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I applied according to “wet on wet” directions after sanding wood stained with another semi transparent product on my 20 yo deck that takes a real sun beating. I love the color, but feel like I really could have used another coat. Much of the wood appears as though it could still absorb more stain (see pic). As I understand the wet on wet application process is similar to 1.5 coats. Now that it’s been trying for close to 48 hours, can I still apply an additional coat or did I miss my window? I’d like to provide as much protection for this wood as possible.
No, do not add more. It looks correct and more is not better as over-application can result in premature failure.
We have some left over oil based deck stain… it is VERY THICK, the seal was completely on but still very thick.. is there a hack to get it a little more manageable? Can we mix a thinner or water??
Sorry but no. It has gone bad and cannot be used at this point.
Is High Pressure Power Washing not an option?
Using the Gemini Restore Kit while pressure washing is the correct way to prep.
I have a ceder dock in Northern WI. Used Cabot Semi-Solid deck product 2 yr. ago and started to show a lot of wear after the 1st yr. How do you suggest replacing Cabot with TWP. Would power washing be sufficient? Would 100 or 1500 be the best solution?
You will need to remove the Cabot fully first by sanding the wood. Once removed, you can use the TWP stains. Use the TWP 100 for WI.
Our deck is 12 years old. I have used clear water proof products on it 3 or 4 times. I have never used stain. We like the natural look. The deck is on the North side so we get a lot of green algae after several years. I’m considering the TWP 100 or 1500. We used the green treated deck wood when it was built. Which product and color should I use?
Prep with the Restore A Deck Stripper.brighter Kit and stain with the TWP 1500 in any color that you like.
It hasn’t been stained so why the stripper?
Water base sealer better tjan oil?
Need to remove the clear sealer out of the wood grain. Oil soaks in better.
So why did you recommend the 1500 over the 100? Can i use the 100 in Iowa?
You could actually use either if in Iowa.
After reading a boat-load of info on your site, including questions and answers from users, I still have a couple of basic questions. Just bought a remodeled house in MN with 3 deck areas and lots of stairs, please correct, add to, or affirm the following.
1. the deck railings are untreated, I’m planning on using the 100 series stain after cleaning it with Gemini Restorer and Brightener. (How long to wait after applying the Restorer and Brightener?
2. The deck and stairs are older and look like they are treated but have a mossy, green to them. Same application? What to do?
3. A deck off the living room has a dark stain and there are a couple of spots that are peeling. Suggestions?
I would appreciate any and all help/suggestions you could provide. In the meantime, I’m going to order some sample stain colors in the 100 series.
Thank you.
1. 48 Hours
2. Yes. Prep and same stain.
3. Sand to remove all. Clean and brighten for the final prep.
I have a deck that I treated with TWP 1511 California Redwood about 3 years ago. It is in need of another coat before the snow flies. What should I do to prep it for the next coat of the same stain.
Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
I have a 25 year old deck which we just removed the solid Deckscapes from with a diamabrush. Did the grooves with an oscillating grinder and used 40 grit sandpaper on an orbital sander to complete the job. My question is what further prep do I have to do so the wood will be ready for TWP 100 in a cedartone? The deck is about 1500 sq ft. So should I buy for 1 or 2 coats? About how many gallons do you think I’ll need? I’ve uploaded a picture of the sanded deck. Thanks.
Looks good to stain. Just do one coat this time. About 10 gallons.
I have prepped my old deck with the stripper, restore deck. I’ve sanded the fuzzies off. The weather is not looking too friendly for the next two weeks. If I go over the 14 days do I have to use the restore that product again before ceiling?
Just lightly wash again if you go over the 14 days.
Lightly wash with water or do I have to use the stripper and brightner again?
Lightly wash with water.
deck wood is treated pine which is almost 2 years old. the wood was originally treated with TWP100 after 6 months of weathering with a moisture content <13%. After 2 consecutive applications spaced 6-8 months apart black mold developed on the wood in 3 months after the 2nd application. For both applications I did pre-treat. Can I use a 3-1 bleach mixture without harming the deck stain TWP100?
No, if you use the bleach you will need to reapply.
Hi:
I have an older cedar deck that I have removed some of the broken boards and replaced them with new cedar lumber. I have also hot pressure washed the deck surface to remove the prior coating. Prior to installing the new boards I sanded the surface to remove the mill glaze. As I live in the Pacific NW and we presently have sunny days in August I would like to stain the deck now. What would be the preparations/process for doing so? Thanks.
The new boards need to weather and be prepped. See this for tips: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I have 1000sq ft cedar deck that is a year old . It has not been previously stained . I cleaned it with restore a deck , deck cleaner . Cleaned half of it with a pressure washer and half with a garden hose and deck brush . I have furring or deck fuzzies all over the deck . I have 10 gallons of twp cedartone for staining . What do I do about the furring ? Any suggestions would be helpful.
That is oxidation of the wood fibers that did not that come off fully with the first pass. It happens when it sits for a year exposed. You will need to pressure wash again to remove or rent a floor buffer with a sanding pad to remove.
Does it need to be wet when buffing it and what type of pad or grit sandpaper.
Dry. 60-80 grit.
we have made a pavilion on our patio the exterior is pressure treated or Wolmanized wood and the ceiling is Knotty Pine not so much concerned about the Knotty Pine but the exterior pressure treated or Wolmanized wood I know it needs to age it is not ready to stain at this point but would it need sanded when the time comes or just stained. Also, how long would you let the wood age prior to staining the project will be complete by the third week of August thanks for all your help
No need to sand. Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit for the prep. 4-12 months to age: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I am hearing a lot of different suggestions and would like to some input from TWP
Sanding –
1) Do I need to sand my deck surfaces?
2) If yes, what grit sandpaper does TWP suggest on a handheld orbital sander?
3) If sanding – do I need to use a deck wash or can I stain directly afterwards?
Cleaning/Preparation –
1) New Deck appropriately aged – Will a pressure washer be adequate to clean prior to staining?
2) Can I use a store brand deck cleaner?
3) Do you suggest your gemini cleaner for this?
4) How many sq ft does the gemini cover?
5) Will the gemini cleaner ruin or cause a reaction to steel siding or my aluminum deck rails?
6) Is the gemini cleaner sold in stores anywhere in MN?
Thanks for the help and clarification
Jess
No need to sand. Prep with the Gemini Restore a Deck Kit and light pressure washing. It should not harm the siding/rails but always do a test spot first.
Only sold online.
Can TWP 1500 clear be applied over any other type of stain?
No, it cannot. any previous stain will need to be removed.
I stripped and brightened a pressure-treated deck on Monday. It rained last night. How long do I have to wait before applying the stain? Is there a way to check the moisture content of the wood? I do have a moisture meter if you can give me the numbers to look for.
Wait 48 hours after a rain and you should be okay.
Will the Restore Kit be harmful to the latex paint on the wall abutting the deck or do I need to protect the latex?
When using the Restore Kit on my deck do I need to protect the latex paint on the abutting walls?
No, but always prewet and rinse any overspray so the dirt and grime do not dry on your paint.
I have a 5 year old deck made of KDAT cypress. It has been stained twice with Cabot semi-transparent stain. Last stain was applied two years ago. Size is 12×14″. I like the look of semi-transparent on the cypress but am not satisfied with the Cabot stain. Do I need a penetrating stain or what would be best.
I can send a picture of stain color needed.
Hello,
Before using the TWP, the Cabot will need to be removed fully. Strip and brighten the wood for the prep. Sand if needed after. After the prep, you can use the TWP 100 or 1500 Series based on what your state allows.
I built a deck in 2014 using pressure treated pine. We live in South Dakota and the deck is subjected to full sun with cold/snow in the winter and high heat and humidity in the summer. What is the recommended series of stain for our application?
Use the TWP 100 Series: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series
Thanks!
My deck is cedar and is 20 years old. Previous product used was Penofin cedar marine. Last product used was TWP 100 about three years ago. I stripped wood with Jomax stripper and then cleaned with KILZ cleaner/brightener. Would you recommend TWP 100 or 1500 be used. I intend to use two coat wet on wet on all horizontal surfaces and only one coat on vertical surfaces that were not stripped. Thank you.
Use the TWP 100 series again.
My deck is now about 2 to 3 years old and it’s cedar. I haven’t done any wet on wet staining before but I’m sure it needs it this year. How long should I wait in between the 1st and 2nd application? Also, for wet on wet which method of application would you recommend, i.e., brush, roller, pad, sprayer, etc.
Thanks!
See this for application of wet on wet: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
Stain pads are best for applying:
We live in Dinwiddie county, Va. We have a covered front porch that is treated pine wood. It has never been stained. I recently replaced the steps (treated pine) and now want to stain the deck. What is your recommendation. I also recently washed the porch with deck cleaner purchased from Lowe’s.
Hello,
Use the TWP 100 Series for this: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series
Having trouble with 102 stain not drying. Is still sticky 5 days after applying.
See this for tips: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-is-spotty-or-shiny/
I built a new pressure treated deck the summer of 2017 so it’s been sitting 1 year. I cleaned it about a month ago and I’m ready to stain. I live in PA, which stain do you recommend? 100 or 1500
For PA, you will need the TWP 1500 Series.
Just put as new redwood shingle roof on my gazebo. when should I put on TWP and which one should I use? thanks
Are the shingles rough sawn cut? If so you can do now. Use the TWP 200 Series:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-200-series
Not sure what you mean. they are not “hand cut” but are sawn and fairly smooth. look like the shingles one sees as siding. Quite even surface.
And why 200 and not 100 or 1500?
I live in western Mass. Old gazebo roof prone to moss and lichen.
Thanks
jb
If the wood is smooth, see this for tips on when to stain and how to prep: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
The TWP 200 is designed for shakes and shingles. Helps prolong the life expectancy internally.
We have a cedar desk, probably more than 10 years old, but in good shape. Two years ago I used Cabot Clear Wood Protector. I now want a more penetrating oil protector that would add a darker reddish tint to the deck. We are in Washington, where the deck was greenish last winter. It seems that a TWP stain in redwood might be the best selection. I also need cleaner – the Wood Brightener? I have 1,300 feet of deck and am wondering the amount of each product to buy. I’d also like to know how soon I might need to reapply again, and how to do that. Thanks
Please use the calculator to the right of this page for the amount of product needed.
Redo every 2-3 years.
I calculated the area, but because the deck is not a square or rectangle, but quite a maze of shapes, I need to confirm the amount of product to buy for 1,300 sq ft. of deck. I also would like to ensure that what I planned to above is my best course of action: 1) using 100 instead of 1500, 2)using a redwood color so the color is darker than clear or cedar but transparent to show wood grain, 3) using the Wood Brightener instead of another cleaning product, and 4) what to do when it is time to reapply (remove first, etc)
1. This depends on what state you live in?
2. Any color you like will work and they are all semi-transparent. See our photo albums to help decide:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series-stain-colors-and-photo-albums/
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series-stain-colors-and-photo-albums/
3. You must clean and brighten the wood. Use the Gemini Restore Kit.
4. Same as #3.
You would need about 10-13 gallons of TWP for the two coats applied wet on wet.
2 of the Gemini Restore Kits.
I live in Washington. Would that affect your recommendation of the higher amount of stain recommended? If I get 100 series now, will I have a problem re-staining in a couple of years with the 1500? If I get the 5 gal bucket, how often should I stir to avoid darker color toward the bottom of the bucket?
Use the TWP 100 Series. WA has no plans to change VOCs but if they did, it is easy to switch to the 1500. Stir every 15 minutes so while applying.
It appears as though I over-applied TWP 100 in some areas of my deck, as those spots are shiny and tacky/sticky. It’s only been a couple day since application. Will those areas dry eventually? If not how do I fix those spots?
See this for tips: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-is-spotty-or-shiny/
I applied TPC 101 Cedartone Natural 780162101011 last summer on a new cedar deck that had been allowed to weather for 8 or 9 months. While most of the floor (boards) still bead up, some spots don’t and others are faded; looks like it needs a refresh application. I have used different stains in the past and really like TWP, but, with others i could do a cleaning, then let it dry, then apply new stain over the old and it would blend together…hard to tell old from new. A clerk told me if I do that with TWP it won’t get into the wood, and it would look very splotchy, and that I should sand the deck first. After 1 year? That seems, well, not very good protection preservative? So, can I clean with a light bleach, then brush or wipe a new coating over the whole deck? It seems to me it would wipe off of the older intact sections, but soak into ‘open’ sections and all blend together. Can I do that? ONE MORE QUESTION: I sanded the 2×6 hand rail, and as I removed the ‘stain’ a grayish/white residue was in the grain. I was able to sand it out (it wasn’t deep), but wondered why the coating under the stain was greyish/white….what is that, and could I have just applied new stain over the top of it, or does it need to be sanded out (it doesn’t wash out). It wasn’t like paint, it seemed to be in the ‘grooves’ of the wood fibers — the softer sections between the veins?
Just an FYI, TWP is a breathable stain that is designed to shed water, not bead water.
You do not need to sand but use the Gemini Restore Kit for the prep.
See this about new wood and it will answer all your questions: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I just stained some cedar posts and shutters with twp 100, we do not like the color. What is the best method to remove it so we can use a lighter color?
See this product to remove: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Will this work well with stain that has only been on for about 48 hours? Sanding is not an option, I would rather live with the bad color than make myself a huge mess.
It will remove it but you will need a pressure washer and you may need to strip it twice to get it all off.
Project is done, but placing furniture on my deck. I have a 5 foot by 2 foot plastic box which chair cushions and other items I use on my deck. Is it best to place the box directly on the deck or should something like wood slats be between the plastic and the deck. I want to make sure the area is taken care of after completing the project.
A little bit of airflow would be nice. Maybe at the four corners, use a piece of wood that raised the box up a half inch or so.
Stained my deck 30 hours ago. Should I cover it with plastic as heavy rains are coming my way. Checked it this afternoon dry to touch. Gets full sun and was 87 today and sunny.
No. Leave it as is. It will be fine.
We just installed a new cedar deck and we were going to sand the decking and rails to remove the mill glaze. Are we able to stain the deck right away without having to wait for the wood to weather first? If so what grit grade do you recommend to sand? Thanks
Sorry but no. See this for info on new wood and TWP: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
We have a two year old pressure treated deck that is hem fir. We want to stain it and curious which product is the best for this type of deck? We used thompson water seal last summer and it is flaking off. Does this need to be striped before reapplying a new stain?
Yes, you will need to remove the coating by stripping and or sanding. Brightener after. Once removed, use the TWP 100 or 1500 Series.
Need your expert input on best method(s) to stain our new deck. Deck is tigerwood and was install a week ago. How long should we wait to stain with TWP 100? Should we use a cleaner / brightener prior to staining? If yes, which product do you recommend?
Does twp 100 series have bug protection also
No. Deck stains do not have bug protection in them but you can add them into the stain: https://www.twpstain.com/bug-juice-insecticide
I am using twp 1500 series stain.My question is,how do I stop black mold from forming over winter.I live in PA.
Try a product called “Wet and Forget”. It helps to keep many types of surfaces mildew free.
Thank you.I will try it.