Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
Changing to TWP Wood and Deck Stain Tips
Many exterior wood and deck owners have dealt with the task of changing their wood surface’s appearance by simply switching to a different wood stain. Whether you want a different look or you are tired of inferior wood stains that don’t last, switching to TWP stain is a good investment.
TWP is an EPA registered exterior wood preservative. It has excellent UV blocking and color retention properties that make it a superb choice for all exterior wood surfaces.
Before switching to TWP Wood Stains, you first have to remove all remnants of the old failing stain. Use a wood stain stripper and not a wood cleaner. Wood cleaners are not aggressive enough to remove old stains. Applying a wood stain stripper will soften the most transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid water and oil-based wood stains.
Apply the wood stain remover using a pump sprayer. Be sure to protect any surrounding shrubbery or landscaping. Once the stain stripper has dwelled on the wood for several minutes, use a stiff brush and garden hose or a pressure washer to lightly wash away the contaminants. For removing stubborn wood stains, several applications and a more aggressive approach may be necessary. Try increasing the strength of the stain stripper and/or the dwell time before washing off.
Once you are certain all the old stain is gone rinse the wood thoroughly then apply a wood brightener to the surface. This is a necessary step after using a caustic stain stripper. A deck brightener will reverse the darkening effect of the stripper and will correct the pH level to a neutral state. This brightening step will allow for better stain penetration and a better overall appearance. After brightening the wood, rinse well.
Allow the wood to dry for 48 hours minimum. If necessary, you can use a sander to remove any small areas of old stain that may still remain. Wipe any sanded areas clean with mineral spirits and allow it to dry before continuing.
Once all the old stain is gone and you have restored the appearance of your exterior wood surface, follow the Stain Application Instructions for TWP Stain.
Just stained my cedar deck ended up with a shiny spots can I wait 1yr and use rad stripper to strip it will it remove all shine to restain I used twp 1500 rustic am planning to use same again
Yes, you can do this.
We have a rough sawn cedar sided house. 7 years ago it had a Cabot Semi applied. We did our deck with TWP100, and it looks much better. How do we get the Cabot off so we can apply TWP? The Cabot is still present….in spots. I assume we will need both the gel and the booster?
Thanks!
That is on the wood like a paint or solid stain. Stripping will not get it all off. You would have to sand.
I am getting ready to stain a front porch deck that hasn’t been stained/cleaned for at least 7 years. I’m planning to order the stripper/brightener kit. We are having our home pressure washed and he will do the porch too. Where in the process should the pressure washing be? Before stripping/brightening? After? Thanks!
You pressure wash while using the stripper and brightener products.
My contractor is using outdoor Clorox to clean my deck which was previously stained with an oil based stain. He is then going to apply TWP stain. Should he strip & brighten the deck after cleaning with the Clorox? He is telling me this doesn’t need to be done, that the clorox cleaning is all that needs to be done. The Clorox did lighten the previous stain but, I’m not sure it removed it.
If you still have a previous stain on the wood of a different brand, then you need to strip ad brighten.
Our home owners association specified that we had to use Sherman Williams semi-transparent super deck stain for our decks.
I sanded my entire deck and put down two coats of stain last summer 2019.
It came out o.k. but I want to apply another coat of semi transparent oil stain (of better quality) this summer 2020.
Since my deck is in good shape (no pealing, no mold, no issues with coloration) can I clean my deck and then following TWP procedures re-stain my deck?
Thank you for taking the time to answer my question.
Daniel LeBlanc – Blanchard, Idaho
No, you will have to remove the Super Deck using the RAD Stripper/Brightener kit: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Thank you for replying.
Just to be sure I understand correctly….are you saying
I have to strip the super deck stain
completely off – down to bare wood?
Thank you for your response.
Daniel
Yes, correct.
🙁 After all the work…guess I’ll continue with super deck….
Thanks for you help.
Stripping Super Deck is very easy and is your best option for prep. No stain of a different brand can be applied over the Super Deck. It has to be stripped if switching and TWP is a much better stain.
I have a 20+ year old redwood deck that has been coated multiple times over the years (it kept peeling) with the HD Behr transparent stain. I am planning on sanding off the old stain completely and applying a TWP product to deck and railings. What is the best TWP product to use, 100 or 1500, and is more prep needed after sanding? I live at 6000 ft elevation in New Mexico – lots of UV.
After sanding, your final prep will be to use the Gemini Restore Kit: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Make sure to use 60-80 grit sandpaper and not any finer.
When done, use the TWP 100 Series.
Can TWP be used over Ready Seal stain after a good cleaning or would it have to be stripped?
You will need to strip it.
I live southeast of Toledo Ohio and have a 5 year old pressure treated deck and pergola. I had let the deck age 1 year and then brushed on with Olympic Woodland Oil Mountain Cedar color. Very disappointingly, it only lasted about a year and before starting turning gray. The deck and wrap around steps are very gray, most of the stain is gone. The uprights and cross beams on the pergola facing south have some weathering, north sides very little weathering. I would like to know do I need to purchase your strip and then stain to switch over to your product? What color would you recommend that would come close to the Mountain Cedar – we loved that color when it was new. I tried to upload some pics but it wouldn’t take. Thanks so much for any advice to this novice!
Strip and brighten for the prep to switch to TWP. Best to see our photo album to help determine the color you want: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series-stain-colors-and-photo-albums/
I am preparing to order, using the deck / steps calculator as I have full wrap around steps. How do I determine how much stain my pergola would need? Also, when loading my cart, the page gave me 2 small bottles of some sort of additives, do I need those a?
I tried uploading pics of deck, steps and pergola and it wouldn’t load. Thanks!!!!
Get the additives for the stripper. Double the amount of your floor to cover the pergola above when using the calculator. Probably 7-8 gallons total for this deck. Only one coat is needed for pergola.
I couldn’t get pics to upload, giving it a try to find assistance in measuring the pergola for stain. The calculator only covers the deck and steps. Thanks again!
I sanded the old product off, cleaned and brightened, got the appropriate dry time in and applied TWP. It looks great. In it’s Pre-TWP life, I washed the deck by hosing down to moisten the dirt, then mopped it with (very) diluted Dawn dish washing liquid and rinsed it off with a hose. I did this about bi-monthly to keep it looking good, as dust, rain, tree droppings, etc. would create a layer of dirt that just wouldn’t come off with just a hose-down. Will this method degrade the product any? Is there a preferable method for routine cleaning that maintains product efficacy?
You should be fine with this gentle cleaning. That is what we would advise.
2 Summers ago I built a 950 sq ft KDAT pine 2″x6″ deck with IPE trimmings. The pine was purchased with a rough mill finish. I planed all pine to a very narrow tolerance to match the IPE. Then did 1/4″ round over edges with my router.
The boards were then stained with 2 coats, wet on wet TWP 1500 and allowed to dry for 1 month at 60°F+. Decking was installed with a hidden fastener system. The end product was breathtaking.
By spring of last year, what appeared to be a black staining was everywhere. The deck was cleaned to remove the lion’s share if the black and coated with the same product.
This spring it was even worse. Yesterday I pressure washed (against my better judgement) with my 15″ orbital pressure washing attachment, working quickly so as not to damage the wood, I then sprayed it with Wet and Forget once dry. Much of the TWP is gone along with better than 50% of the black stain.
What is my next step to return this deck to close to its original beauty and how can I maintain it?
Best to strip and brighten at this point: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Once prepped, recoat with the TWP. After that dries, try the Wet and Forget.
I’m refinishing a mahogany deck which has wolman premium wood finish and preservative. My question, can wolman be stripped with stripper or does it need to be sanded before I use TWP on deck.
Post a picture of the current condition.
I CURRENTLY HAVE GREEN LABEL PENOFIN ON MY DECK AND NEED TO SWITCH TO TWP. IS IT NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE PENOFIN FIRST?
Yes, but Penofin is easily removed with this: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Thank you. Can you tell me what is the difference between these two products? From reading the label it’s application is similar as well as how they respond to the treated wood. When I bought the Penofin I was told I just need to put any new coats right on top of the first coat and would not have to go through the cleaning process. What in these products makes them different?
Different brands are not compatible. In addition, the Penofin turns black and adding TWP on top would not fix this. It is very easy to strip the Penofin. FYI, you always have to prep when recoating. Either cleaning or stripping will be required. If staying with TWP in the future, you will need to prep by cleaning.
THANK YOU!
Is there a TWP 100 stain that is very close in color to the Sikkens SRD Dark Oak 009?
Try TWP 103 Dark Oak.
I have a small 5/4 treated yellow pine deck I built three summers ago. I stained it a couple of months after construction with a water-based Thompsons waterproofing semi-transparent stain & sealer. It peels and needs re-staining each year. Seems it just can’t cope with West Michigan winters, even when I’ve tarpped it.
Am I correct in thinking that I’ll have to use something like the Gemini Restore-A-Deck Kit stripper and neutralizing brightener before re-staining (w/ TWP-100)? Should I rent and use a power washer? Would that give me better results? (it’s a small deck, only about 10’x6′).
Would it matter that there is a bit of green mildew starting on a few boards? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve
You will probably need to strip (while pressure washing) and sand to remove this product:
https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Strip first and then sand if needed to remove the rest.
I have a 15yo deck stained in Sikkens Dek and it’s peeling. How do you recommend I prep the surface to apply twp stain?
Sand this off fully first. Use the Gemini Restore Kit after the sanding for the final prep.
I’m in the process of purchasing a log home. The stain has not been maintained and will need to be restored. The current owner says he used Pittsburgh Ultra stain last time (an acrylic semi-transparent stain). I’d like to strip with Restore a Deck stripper and switch to TWP. Will the Ultra come off with Restore a Deck and pressure washing?
Please send a picture of the current stain.
Here’s a picture of the current finish.
From the picture is looks like the stripper will work well for this. Apply and pressure wash off. Repeat if needed for stubborn areas. Brighten all when done.
Is using a drill-based mixer okay with the 1500 oil stain or will it create bubbles?
it is fine to use a drill mixer.
I have 2 9×9 foot decks. One was sanded, then treated with a clear oil based wood protector about 5 years ago. Now, it’s grey and weathered looking after lots of rain this year. The upper deck, off the 2nd floor bedroom, is stained but the stain is very weathered and mostly peeled off, but remains in ok condition on the vertical railing. The stairs and stair railing are also peeling. Can I use the stripper on both decks? Or just the deck with peeling stain? Does the deck without stain need to we washed with the gemini cleaner instead? I want to make the job fast and easy. Please let me know what you recommend.
Yes, use a stripper on both decks. Make sure to neutrlaize with the brightener after. Please post a picture though to be certain.
I have home with a large amount of cedar shake siding that is in need of re-staining. I am unsure what product has previously been used. The majority was a transparent oil based(I think) stain. A small area that was redone with a remodel had a semitransparent stain in attempts to match the older darker cedar shakes. It is all fairly dried out. What would you recommend to prep prior to re-staining with TWP 100
Prep with the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper Kit and a pressure washer prior to applying the TWP.
My deck currently has a solid olympic stain that is peeling. will the stripper remove the solid stain or what else would I need to do to remove it?
My deck has Cabot Australian Timberwood on all the horizontal surfaces and a latex exterior paint on the vertical posts. I’d like to switch to TWP for the deck stain, and understand that I need to apply the RAD stripper followed by a brightener. Will either of these products affect my latex paint? Do I need to use any special precautions to avoid accidentally stripping the paint off along with the old oil stain?
We have a few cedar planter boxes that were sealed last year with Thompson’s water sealant (clear). I sanded the surfaces down, and am pretty sure I got it off. What’s my next step? Do I need to use RAD stripper, or is cleaner sufficient? In either case, I’ll of course follow by brightener.
I am in SE Wisconsin, I have a 15-yr old deck that had previously been stained with Behr semi-solid waterproofing stain. I purchased the RAD Stripper, Cleaner, Brightener, and TWP stain. The Behr stain was practically immune to the stripper, even mixing it at double strength and leaving it on twice as long as recommended. Therefore, we sanded the entire deck to remove the old stain. Since we have now invested 20+ hours in preparing the deck for staining, I want to make sure I do everything right from here on out to ensure the TWP stain goes on properly. Do I need to wipe down the entire deck with mineral spirits? Do I need to clean AND brighten, or just brighten? Finally, do I apply follow the two coats wet-on-wet application process, or just a single coat?
I used TWP Cedartone when I first built my deck about 10 yrs. ago and was very satisfied. I refreshed it after 2-3 years and was satisfied again. A few years ago, I made the mistake of believing a consumer magazine’s recommendation and used a different brand. I was called “semi-transparent” but the deck looked like it had been painted. I’ve just about got all that stain off and want to change back to TWP. Looking at the specs I see that the 1500 series has more solids and less VOCs than the 100 series. Does that mean that the 1500 series is less transparent than the 100 series? I don’t to make the same mistake again…I want to be able to see the wood grain after staining.
I stripped, brightened and stained my deck with TWP and love the way it looks. However, whenever the slightest bit of dirt gets on it, removal is not easy. I first tired hosing and sweeping and another day I mopped but neither removed typical outside dirt. I scrubbed it today, and some came off, but I am not about to scrub my deck weekly! Is there something I can put over the TWP to maybe make it a little glossier to help dirt wash off? Or do you have another idea? Another coat of TWP? Has anyone else had this issue? This is a new problem for me-didn’t happen before the refinishing.
We had our home painted last month and the painters pressure washed and used linseed oil on a wood pergola on our patio. The pressure washing removed most of the previous dark stain of the wood (not sure what the stain was, we purchased the home a few months ago). Can I use a dark stain TWP100 or TWP1500 over the linseed oil? Are there any other steps to take before I can stain the pergola dark again?
So I used the stripper from ‘Restore a deck’ that I purchased here. I did an entire stair section on north side of the deck ( 8 treads with spindle sections and stringers; see pics). After letting it set for 30 minutes I then pressure washed it off. The 6 year old PTP in this section now looks almost green( the original color of PTP) from the stripper( this morning) and fuzzy from the pressure washing. I probably over pressure washed trying to get the old finish off. I could not discern from any instructions I found here whether or not if I need to brighten while still damp from stipping or if it is ok to complete all the stripping then brighten the entire deck after stripping is complete ( will take several days to strip). I also am sure that a course sanding ( 60 grit on a random orbital) is going to be necessary before TWP 100pecan application.
Should I do the sanding before the brightening?
It still appears that I can see some finish still in the wood after such aggressive stripping and washing, not sure though. I am including some pics. i know that in the close up of the aforementioned treads it looks like an amber finish is still in there, but I wonder if it not just tannin.
final question; this deck is 24 x 18 with 2 stairs sections as shown . I purchased 10 gallons TWP 100 pecan, is it your opinion that I can get it done ( 2 coats) with this Quantity? Tavery
I have a pine log cabin that we are preparing to refinish. I have used TWP 100 numerous times on decks and have loved it, so I am wanting to use a TWP product (100 or 1500) for the cabin finish. First question, does one finish have distinct advantages over the other? I am in Arkansas so no V.O.C. regs to dictate decision.
Secondly, this cabin has been up for approximately 8 years without finish. As you would expect it has quite a fair amount of mold and surface oxidation. We are going to have the cabin media blasted to prep for the stain, do we then need to use a brightener or any other prep products, or simply stain right over the freshly blasted surface?
Third, this is a “D” style log cabin that was fairly poorly assembled and now has some moderate to major gaps opening between logs. With that in mind we have decided to add chinking between all logs in order to air & insect seal the exterior plane. Can you tell me what chinking/caulking products are compatible with TWP stains? We plan to chink before stain, as we want to chinking to disappear, but we need to insure the stain will bite the surface of the caulking used.
Thank you in advance for you help.
Both the TWP 100 and the 1500 last about the same. There is slightly more pigment in the 1500 so it is possible that on log siding you may get a little better UV protection. You should be okay with the prep. Look for chinking products that are compatible with oil based stains. TWP will not “stain” or color chinking or caulking. You cannot make it disappear. If you want it to blend, the chinking/caulking must be similar in color prior to staining.
Hello,
I stained my new cedar deck with Bonds One Time about 5 years ago, it got a second coat 3 years ago now and it is dire need for some attention. Will the stripper remove the Bonds? or will I have to sand the deck?
Bonds One Time can be stubborn to remove but the Restore a Deck Stripper and pressure washing should get it off. you may need to strip a couple fo times though to get all off.
Thanks for the fast response- do you recommend TWP100 or 1500 for the DuPage county IL?
Only the 1500 is allowed in IL.
Last year applied Superdeck oil natural stain preservative to my 6 year old deck that had been stripped, cleaned, and sanded. The product dried patchy with large dark spots over the entire deck. I have cleaned, powerwashed, and brightened it to get it ready for restaining. Some darker patchy areas remain. Water does not bead up currently. Woud like to try TWP.
Would I need to strip deck prior to applying TWP to ensure penetration into the wood?
Yes, use this to fully remove: http://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
It will not strip off a solid stain. If you want to use TWP, you will need to sand it all off.
I’m in a similar situation. Would a wood brightener be needed after sanding?
Yes it would help.
Wait and lightly wash and apply another coat in the Fall or next Spring.
I have a pine pergola that was stained years ago with the old formulation of Cabot Australian Timber Oil (Jarrah Brown). It has stood up pretty well but now I can’t get the old formulation and I need to start thinking about maintaining the top horizontal surfaces at least. We live in southern NH. What do you recommend from a TWP perspective?
Hi Paul, To be able to use the TWP you will need to remove the old Cabot ATO first. Using the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper and a pressure washer will do this for you. Apply the RAD Wood Brightener when done with the stripping of the Cabot. As for stain, look at the Dark Oak color to be “similar” to the Jarrah Brown.
I was able to get it done and it looks great but some areas need a second coat. I didn’t have time to do the wet on wet routine. What should I do?
I’m almost due to re-stain my deck. I was considering switching to TWP based on reviews. My current deck has transparent SuperDeck applied. Can I find TWP locally in Western Washington State? Can I use the Superdeck wood cleaner and then apply the TWP?
Hello, you need to remove the SuperDeck from the wood before using TWP. Use the Restore A Deck Stain stripper and pressure washing. Apply the RAD brightener after. Once prepped, let dry for 48 hours before using the TWP. We are a online dealer and can ship all the products to you.
The Stripper does not remove paint fully but it may remove some if the paint is deteriorating. You will must likely need to touch up the paint when done.
No need for stripper. Just the cleaner and wood brightener.
Thanks! A follow-up question: right now our temperatures are in the 70s-80s during the day, and our overnight lows can drop to upper 40s. The instructions say to apply when it’s over 50 F. Is it OK that the overnight lows drop down to 46-47-48 F, though?
Yes that is fine and not an issue.
Our painter applied TWP 200 in Butternut brown to our cedar deck last week. We had power washed and sanded the deck prior to application. Sadly the color is very orange looking and still has not dried. What should we do now if it does not dry or I can’t look at the color anymore? Will newly applied stain soften much? Can we apply another color without stripping?
The 200 Series will lighten in color after 2-3 weeks as it continues to soak deep into the wood. I would leave it alone until then. It will dry as well.
Julie, since this was sanded it would be helpful to lightly clean and brighten the wood now. This will help the stain to penetrate. As for stain, apply one coat now and another light maintenance coat (horizontals only) next Spring after a light cleaning/rinsing to remove the dirt and grime.
Ok, thanks for clarifying. Should I wipe down the deck with mineral spirits before the cleaning & brightening? Or is this not necessary? Thanks for your help!
Julie, not need for that.
Nick P, the 1500 is not less transparent than the 100. I would stay with the 100 though if it is still available in your state.
Ed, you cannot add a coating on top of the TWP. It will not work and create big issues down the road with peeling. Adding more TWP will not work either as TWP is supposed to soak into the wood, not dry on top of the wood creating a film.
doug, no you cannot do that. You would need to remove the linseed oil before applying the TWP. Try the Restore A Deck stain stripper followed by the wood brightener.
I will be using the RAD stripper and brightener to prep a deck that is attached to the second story of my house. The house is painted in bright yellow and red colors with Sherwin Williams’ ‘Duration’. I plan to apply the stripper and brightener with a pump sprayer and wash them off with a pressure sprayer. Will these product harm the paint? I can tape poly on the walls in the work area for protection of overspray from the pump sprayer. However I am concerned that when I pressure wash some of that water and removed product will get behind the plastic, especially on the wall under the deck. Will the wash water (with stripper or brightener) in it harm paint or windows? Also the pickets on the deck are powder coated aluminum. Will the stripper or brightener harm the finish on the pickets?
Thanks, Jay b
jay b, it should not harm anything but it is always best to test first to make sure.
My deck was stained with Australian Timber oil about 5 years ago. Do I still need to strip it? What would happen if I didn’t?
Jacs, if you have any of the remaining stain left than you should strip otherwise the TWP may not soak in correctly and it may look blotchy.
T Avery, at this point I would strip all, lightly sand than brighten. You should have more then enough stain for this.
My deck has just been stripped with an unknown stripper — our “guy” was not knowledgeable/willing to discuss a neutralizer/brightener, and I don’t know what he used to strip the deck, but he did power wash it off after 30 mins. working time. He stated the deck would “whiten” as it dries. Can we safely skip the brightener step, especially if satisfied with the appearance of the stripped deck, or does the unknown stripper need to be neutralized with a brightener? Does a brightener enhance the stain absorption so much that is really recommended in this case?
Trex, yes you should brighten to restore the pH balance and neutralize the cleaner. The stain will also perform better.
How do I easily apply RAD brightener, using a pump spray can OK, and then can I just rinse it all off with the hose? Do I have to scrub, either to apply or to clean off?
Trex, apply with pump sprayer then rinse after 10 minutes. It is easy to do.
Hello. If you folks were going to come over and tell me if my deck was ready for TWP 1500, what would you look for? I’ve cleaned, stripped 2x, some areas 3x, and now brightened. I want to make sure I’m giving TWP every benefit of proper prep before I apply it. Can you tell us what to look for in terms of knowing when we are ready for staining. The prior stain was Superdeck Semi Transparent Oil. The deck is cedar. It is about 16 months old.
As long as the wood is clean and free of previous coatings than you should be good to stain the wood.
Jess, pressure washing at a low pressure will not damage the wood when using proper prepping products. You do not need a cleaner if using a stripper. Do not need to scrub. Yes on the weathered deck.
I stained a new cedar deck and gazebo with Penofin red label cedar tint last year. Today all of the horizontal surfaces are near black and look 20 years old. I plan to get rid of the Penofin crap and use TWP 100. I know stripping is mentioned a lot, but I’m thinking about renting a floor sander and be done with it quicker. Is that acceptable? If so, is a cleaner and brightener still necessary? Thanks.
Jess, stripping and brightening with a pressure washer is much better and easier then sanding. I would do this.
Thanks for the reply. More questions. Isn’t pressure washing damaging to the wood? If I do that would the procedure be 1. Spray on the stripper, 2. Powerwash, 3. Brighten, 4. Stain? Do I need to scrub between steps 1 and 2? Where does the ‘cleaner’ come in, or does the stripper take its place? Final question: part of my cedar deck has never been stained, but is weathered. Would just a cleaner/brightener be sufficient? Thanks again.
How long should I keep the RAD stripper on the deck if removing Sikkens Cetol SRD?
JC, 10-20 minutes then pressure wash off.
I have a cedar deck that I have applied cabot stain too. I have to resand it this year and then stain it again as the cabot stain has not lasted longer than one year without peeling. What stain would you suggest I use to survive a minneapolis winter, keep its color and not peel.
Em, after the sanding you should use the Gemini Restore kit to prep the wood. Best to use the 100 Series for this.