Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
Stain All Sides of the deck board with TWP?
When staining a deck using TWP, is it necessary to stain all sides of each board? Consider the reason for staining wood – to shield it from weather damage, which causes rot and decay. This can lead to an unsightly appearance and structural failure.
Wood that is exposed to the elements will experience constant changes. Wood swells as it absorbs water and moisture, then shrinks when it dries out. These constant changes begin to break down the cellular structure of the wood causing it to crack, split, and warp. Ultraviolet rays fade and discolor the wood leading to a neglected appearance.
To prolong the life of any wood structure, and help maintain its original appearance, it needs to be coated with a weather-resistant stain like TWP. However, because at least one side of the boards will not be as exposed to weather as the other sides, it is not necessary to stain all sides with TWP. The bottom sides of deck boards, for example, are not exposed to much water or UV rays.
The only reason to stain all sides with TWP would be for aesthetic purposes. On a second-story deck, having all sides stained with TWP would be more appealing. This is a purely personal preference. To stain all sides with TWP for appearance is going to be more expensive and labor-intensive. It would take double the amount of stain and time to stain the underside of a deck.
To ensure the wood is shielded from weather and will stand the test of time, staining with TWP is a good investment. To stain all sides with TWP is really only for appearance where applicable but certainly is not necessary. It is really up to the deck owner whether or not to stain all sides. Not doing so will not lend a hand to weather damage or shorten the life of the structure in any way.
Questions? Ask Below!
In late 2013 our deck was re-stained with what I was told was TWP + Radcon. Apparently a blend of what now would be TWP 1500 and TWP 200 (for more pigment). Local companies mention a mix/blend of 1500 and 200 from 80%/20% to 20%/80%. The concerns being that the more TWP 200, the longer drying time and the higher chance of pigment rubbing off.
Comments??
P.S. I searched the TWPStain.com web site for Radcon and did not get any hits.
P.P.S. Location is Northern California, SF Bay Area about 3 miles from the coast. Fair amount of daily sun on the deck; hot occasionally; winter rains
TWP 200 does take longer to dry but it does not peel.
Is “Radcon” a ‘thing” – that is, is it a specific product or a specification of the mixture?
Alternatively, is it generic and is term to describe a mixture, of any proportions, of TWP 200 & TWP 1500?
RADCON is a concentrate that is not sold to the public.
Planning on using 1502 (Redwood) in California
Have sanded 40 year old redwood planks, will clean & prep using your product. I’m concerned that the old wood will be really absorbent. Do you suggest additional stain. Using your calculator which says 4 gallons, will 5 gallon suffice? Thank you
Hard to say without knowing the sq footage.
360 sq ft
5- gallons will be enough.
Is TWP good to use on unfinished outdoor furniture such as a cypress swing? Location SW Missouri.
Yes, use the 100 Series.
When applying TWP 1500 stain to vertical boards and spindles should I work from top-to-bottom or bottom-to-top?
Top to bottom.
what happens if I drip on the unstained lower boards does it show through?
Only if you let it dry before wiping or going over with stain.
I have a 40 year old log home that was previously stained with CWF cedar color. It has darkened over the years and the wood looks dry. I am thinking to use your stain stripper and brightner combo then stain with TWP. I would like to lighten the wood as much as possible. Do you have any before and after pictures of log homes having used this product? How difficult is the stripper to use and how is it applied? Will it harm my patio which is attached to house.?
See this for photos:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series-stain-colors-and-photo-albums/
or
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series-stain-colors-and-photo-albums/
The stripper is applied with a pump sprayer and then pressure washed off. The brightener is applied after to neutralize the stain stripper.
Will the stripper damage my patio block? Are there photos of before & after the stripper is used on a house?
I would like to see the results.
No, the stripper will not damage patio blocks. We do not have before and afters of prep on a house. When stripping a vertical house, you will need these additives for the stripper: https://www.twpstain.com/wood-stain-strippers/rad-stripper-additives
We are building a cabin and have used TWP Cedartone on new white pine siding. We are seeing mildew and mold on the wood and thought TWP prevented such. We have take a piece of scrape stained siding to the supplier who agrees that it is mold and mildew. We don’t understand why this is happening and what can be done about it. Can you advise?
TWP does contain mildewcides to prevent mildew from growing in the stain but no wood stain can stop mildew from growing on top of a stain. That would be impossible. Since it is growing on top of the stain that would be more of an issue with your environment. Using a product like “Wet and Forget” would help with this.
On waiting 48 hours: I’m currently in a very limited window of opportunity to get stain on a prepared deck. If I wait 48 hours, we’re expected to have rain the evening of the day I want to stain the deck. I have a moisture meter for wood and I’m not afraid to use it. The deck has been drying well since washing. Do you know the moisture percentage that I should be looking for before applying stain? I’m guessing somewhere in the 5 to 12% range?
If I have TWP 100 series already applied on my deck but needs to be redone since it is starting to fade – what do I need to do prior to application? Just clean/brighten? or strip also?
Clean and brighten. No need to strip.
can you ship 100 series to wisconsin ?
Yes, it can.
Can you mix cape cod gray with clear to produce a lighter shade ?
Yes.
I asked the question few days back, don’t see if the reply was posted. Installed Redwood deck, pergola and fence in my backyard (Bay Area, CA) a year+ back. This winter has been very wet and the wood needs to be stained. Will the CA Redwood or Redwood in the 1500 series work better and last longer? Thx. HB
They will work the same. Just a color preference. Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit first: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Hey there. Dumb question here…I decided to order 3 samples to try out on my deck prior to buying 5 gallon drums. My deck is over a year old and I pressure washed it 5 days ago.
Question: Do I just brush on the 3 different colors of stain to see which one looks best? Captian Obvious here…but I plan on using a sprayer to handle the entire job so I wasnt sure if I should spray or brush it on.
Just apply with a brush.
Can Clear stain be used on a deck?
Yes, but it will gray naturally. For UV protection from graying, you will need a tinted color.
Will it gray natural if the clear is applied annually?
Yes, it will gray in a matter of months with the Clear as it has no UV protection. The tinted colors will offer UV protection.
We finished 1 coat last year of Rustic Oak on a white pine log house. Can we make it darker and more brown by using a different color for our second coat? It looks lighter and more red than what we expected. Didn’t look like the computer color chip. For prep, prior to using TWP, we sanded the entire house to get the very old other (don’t know brand) stain off the logs.
Thanks, Frank in NC
You could try the Dark Oak over this or a mixture of Dark Oak and Rustic.
Should stain be applied on the sides between the deck boards?
No need for this.
We are installing a new tongue and groove doug fir porch floor on our covered porch. We live in upstate NY. We did not pretreat the boards prior to install. Is it necessary to let the wood “cure” before we apply TWP stain? What TWP products do you recommend we use once we are able to treat the floor?
See here about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
You will need the 1500 Series for NY. Thanks
I plan on using your TWP Cedartone 101 on my new 2×4 cedar deck boards. I would like to first use a preservative on all six (6) sides before I install the 2X4. I plan on using the following procedure before using your stain:
1. Remove the “Mill Graze” with your product Gemini or Wolman Deck and Fence Brightener.
2. Power wash the brightener off.
3. Use Woodlife Classic Clear Wood Preservative on all sides and three coats on the cut ends.
4. Install the boards to the joists.
5. Six (6) months later use a brightener then put use one coat of your TWP Cedartone 101.
Will this be okay?
We have used the Gemini prep on our cedar deck and getting ready to stain. We have deck skirting out of cedar that slightly touches the ground to keep rabbits out. Some of the skirting is on rock but some is going into mulch. My question is when staining towards the bottom – should I let the stain run at the very end to prevent my brush from picking up any mulch or debris? I have raked away debri but the ends are dirty.
Thanks for the help!
I live in MD and my deck is many years old and weathered in some spots. It was kiln dried pine and has been stained twice with oil-based Olympic semi-transparent (caramel color). Olympic has now switched to water-based stains which I would rather avoid. Because I live in MD, I guess I have to use TWP 1500 and I was thinking about 1516 – Rustic since it seems closest in color to how the deck looks in most spots. I have power washed the mold/mildew off but I have not removed all of the pigment from the previous stain. Is that required ? It has been many years since my last staining and I assume the wood will quickly soak up the new TWP stain. Please advise when you can and thanks.
Hi — I live in Knoxville, TN and my ‘new’ BACK deck is 18 months old and was done with kiln dried pine. It has never been stained. I recently pressure washed it. I bought Sherwin Williams Deck stain, read about your product and am returning SW now and buying yours :)). With that being said, I’d like to know which stain is best to buy for my area (100 or 1500) and my deck gets full sun exposure. It is approximately 550 sq.ft. based on your calculator (16×18 deck w/9 48″ steps. Would you recommend the 5 gallon bail or less? One or two coats? Do I still need to do add’l prep work? Would you recommend brushing on the verticals and using paint pad on decking or for a novice, can I get away with spraying the deck? Need to do the option that will turn out best for a person never having stained a deck before :)).
Lastly, I have rough cut cedar posts on my FRONT porch — used SW on them and the railings 5 years ago — looks horrible now, dark & graying. What can I do to make them look “fresh” again, anything? Then I will stain with the cedar stain that I plan on buying from you.
THANK YOU SO MUCH for your time and help!! Can’t wait to get this project going. Tried to upload photos, but couldn’t get it to work.
How long until you can walk on decking and how long until you can safely put the deck furniture back?
One thing I would say to anyone using this product is this. LET THE WOOD AGE A LONG TIME! I built a beautiful deck last Summer and let it age about 3 months before prepping and staining it. One year later I have mildew, stains, and lots of places where the stain has just worn through. The deck has very little use most of the year, so I know it’s not wear. I’m fairly certain it just needed more time to dry in the Pacific Northwest. So this Summer, I am stripping it all down and letting it dry another few months and then re staining. What a pain. It sure looked beautiful for a couple of months. Hopefully, this next application will retain its beauty. In the meantime, I’ve got to order more stain. Bummer.
I recently built a cedar fence with new rough cut cedar. I also have 4″x4″ treated posts and treated 2″x4″s. It has been completed for about two weeks and I won’t be able to get to staining it with the TWP 100 that I purchased for another two weeks. Basically a month of weathering. I live in WA state. Do I need to do anything to prep the wood before I stain it? I will wait for a period of four days of dry weather (48 hrs to dry and 48 hrs after I apply the stain to dry). I currently plan to:
1. Do zero preparation since it is new wood.
2. Spray with a pump sprayer and than back brush.
3. Apply a second coat within 30 minutes using the same method of application.
Any suggestions or corrections? Thanks!
I have a new deck (decking being put down right now) and while the pine is treated it has been kiln dried afterwards. Do I still need to wait a season to apply the 1500 for good penetration? Do i need to use any products like brightner or cleaner on it before applying? Everything states since it’s new wood I should only do one coat (which I’m okay with that!), I assume this is so that way you only apply what the wood can absord, but with it being kiln dried should I do 2 coats as if it has seasoned?
Thanks
jason
What is best way to remove TWP from aluminum ladder? Got it pretty good with Chapin Sprayer.
Try a graffiti remover that removes oil based products.
Anything I can spray on & let sit? I have a lot of stain to remove from the ladder.
Not that we know of.
Good call on the graffiti remover. Goo Gone Graffiti remover from Lowes did the job. Interesting that my local Sherman Williams did not know the answer to this question.
I am installing new Doug Fir tongue and groove porch flooring. Virtually everything I’ve read suggests staining all sides — do you disagree with respect to this wood and application? In other words, would it serve a purpose other than appearance given the underside will not be visible?
No point to stain all sides. Just the exposed sides.
No. You cannot just brighten then apply the TWP over a different brand. You would have to remove the Woodlife first.
If there is a chance of rain in a day or two, would you advise covering my deck with something like plastic sheeting until there is a lower chance of rain. Summertime showers are hard to work around…0% to 10% to 60% to 20%…on consecutive days.
No do not cover. It needs airflow to properly cure and dry.
Thanks for the info! Will plan to go ahead with staining this weekend and hope I dodge the bullet on the rain! Excited about seeing the end result.
I live in WI. I have an existing cedar deck that I buff sanded to remove years of old stain. In June, we built a cedar addition to the existing deck. The new addition has rough cedar skirt board. I’m planning these steps: 1) Order Gemini cleaner and 1500 natural color stain. 2) Use Gemini cleaner on existing deck now and stain after drying. 3) Stain new skirt board now. 3) Wait until October to stain new cedar addition after cleaning with Gemini cleaner so it’s protected before winter. What do you think? Finally, can I stain new cedar lattice now, or should I wait to age the wood? Will the Gemini cleaner damage aluminum railing? I plan to cover it.
You don’t you just do it all at once in the Fall. Much easier. It should not damage the spindles but not all spindles are made the same so always test first to see if there is a reaction. The spindles without a clear coating on them may have an issue.
Ok, thanks. Is 1500 the correct choice?
Yes
I prepped my deck with Gemini 1 & 2 following the directions. The new cedar has some blotchy spots. I’m wondering if this is the product or did I not get up all the weathered wood or mill glaze. Should I reapply Step 1 to get a smoother finish before staining? Do I need to use the neutralizer/brightener again? Can I spot spray the blotchy spots or would you recommend I spray the whole area? Thanks!
Can you post a picture? More then likely you did not clean it all off.
These are an older section of the deck. The shadows make it hard to see. I had posted this same question on the general Q & A first before I found our thread and that person told me to re-clean the new decking, so I did. It seems that there are a lot of fibers visible after the newer wood dries. I’m just not sure what to expect and when it’s clean enough. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
Are you pressure washing or scrubbing after applying the deck cleaner? It looks gray still like you are not removing the oxidized wood cells.
There was a lot of residue during the cleaning process. I scrubbed it several times and rinsed numerous times both scrubbing and spraying.
The wood is a nice cedar color when wet, but is drying to a very light color. I just thought it was the brightening agent. I’ve followed the directions, so not sure what to think.
You might need to use a pressure washer after applying the cleaner as it seems form the picture you are not removing all of the oxidized wood cells while scrubbing. Can you reapply to the email you get with a few more pictures via email instead of here so we can have a better look. Also take a picture with the wood wet in one area. Has your deck ever been sealed before?
Did you get the pictures I sent by e-mail? I had to send in three e-mails because of the size of the file.
No we did not get them.
I just sent them again by replying to the e-mail.
We are not getting them. Please upload here instead. Sorry for hassle.
stupid question. I ordered a 5 gallon can am ready to start. How do I open the can?
You pry up the tabs on the side of the lid with a flat screwdriver.
Looking to add non-skid to some old fir planks to be used as a walkway. I have sanded the boards & will clean & brighten. Using a granular non-skid additive. Thinking of doing a wet on wet application with the non-skid added with the second coat. Should I premix the non-skid in w the TWP 1500 or sprinkle it on as I go?
Thanks,
Brian
It will not work. TWP is a penetrating stain. You need a filming stain/paint for a non skid additive to work.
Good to know! Thanks
I am going to stain a 6 month old deck that is made from pressure treated pine. Should I use TWP100 or 1500 series? I do not understand differences/benefits of one over the other.
What state do you live in?
west texas
Use the 100 Series. The main difference is VOC compliancy.
ok thanks,..only one coat correct? will pressure washing be sufficient for this 6 month old covered deck, or should I use wood cleaner
Deck cleaner and pressure washing. Only one coat.
You could do that or most would just spray the lattice with a pump sprayer. Much easier.
Planning a new cedar deck that will get unobstructed strong sunlight in MI; Which colors of TWP 100 would provide the maximum UV protection; which colors would be 2nd best? Thanks for guidance!
Darker colors always last longer from UV fading then lighter colors. See theses articles for tips: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/ http://www.twpstainhelp.com/twp-100-color-choices-and-tips/
I have a 14 year old mahogany deck on a covered porch that still has an old coating of Defy stain for hardwoods on it. The deck is being sanded and several mahogany boards are being replaced as they have rotted at the ends. Since I will have a mix of old and new wood, is it necessary to wait 4-12 months before staining the deck with the 1500 product?
Yes it would be best to wait until Spring. Prep before applying the TWP with the Gemini Restore Kit.
Had 1500 series stain applied to 7 year old deck that previously stained about 4 years ago. Deck areas that experienced less weathering (under porch overhangs) have not absorbed the stain and have left a glaze on the wood. The glaze is still tacky, Can I and should I remove this excess with a solvent soaked rag?
Yes you can do that but make sure to saturate oil rags with water when done to avoid accidental spontaneous combustion.
I stained pine T&G for underside of roof. Had someone help that applied like paint instead of stain and the results is TACKY. If I wipe the excess with mineral spirits will it improve the finish?
It will help to remove some of the excess stain and speed up the drying as well.
I live in Maryland. I prepped the deck last Wednesday and applied the 1500 stain in Cali Red Wood. I followed the prep and application instructions and it is absolutely beautiful! I just placed the furniture back on the deck and slight movement of the furniture scratched the surface. The furniture is made of an aluminum alloy–very light. Is this typical–the finish not withstanding furniture adjustment? I’m a bit nervous because people adjust chairs frequently. Please tell me the finish will harden to resist simple furniture adjustment (especially when one scoots the chair back to stand).
Either the stain has not completely cured or it was over applied. TWP is supposed to penetrate 100% into the wood grain. If it is applied to heavily then it my dry on to of the wood causing this issue. Feel free to post a picture.
Best to pump spray on the Stripper. Yes you need the $29.99 stripper. Cleaner will sometimes remove old stain but not always.
So i guess it’s the Restore-a-Deck Wood Brightener ($24.99) that I need as part 2 of the process ? Is this also a powder which is mixed with water and pump sprayed ?
Yes you are correct on both questions.
Thanks for all your help with this.
Welcome!
Yes you need to remove the old coating first before using the TWP. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper followed by the wood brightener.
So this is the Restore-a-Deck stain stripper ($29.99) followed by which product for brightening ? There is also the Gemini Restore Kit ($49.99) which is a 2-step cleaner & brightener but I’m guessing that won’t remove old stain as well ? I have a power washer so I guess injecting the stripper is better ? Thanks.
Use the 100 Series. Two coats applied wet on will and you will need 5-6 gallons. Prep the deck with the Gemini Restore Kit. Apply stain with the stains pads. For the railings with the SW, you will need to strip and brighten for the prep. The stripper is the Restore A Deck Stain stripper.
thanks a ton!
welcome!
What is the best TWP product for Oak board fence?
Use the 1500 Series for this.
24 hours is normal but it does vary.
Sorry about this but you do need to let TWP weather for 4-12 months and prepped first with a deck cleaner and wood brightener before staining. In addition, only apply one coat of the TWP. Mildew could be the results of pollen in the air as TWP contains and EPA registered algaecide that prevents the growing of it in the stain.
The well water for our campground is VERY high in Calcium and Iron! If we wash the deck first, there will likely be mineral deposits left on the pressure treated deck. Will any spots from these minerals interfere with TWP 100 or 1500 uptake? Can we even use an oil based stain, or would we be better off to use a water based stain.
Use a wood brightener and that will help cancel out any potential issues with the water. Use an oil based stain.
Mark, since it is rough you do not need to prep. Yes on application method. Thanks
Jason, wait months and prep with the Gemini Restore Kit. Only 1 coat.
We built a deck off the back of our house about 5 months ago. The sun exposure is quite extensive. Our painters applied one good coat of the 1500 TWP stain and said that it was typical to apply just one coat. Should we inisist on applying a second coat? (they said they would be happy to do it but said it was not common) What is your opinion? Thanks..
Only one coat on new wood.
I am getting new cedar pallets for a dock in Minnesota. I would like to keep the natural cedar color. How long should I wait to stain the new pieces? Will it turn gray before I stain? Do I need to prep the surface at that point? TWP100 or 1500? 101 Cedartone the best option? Does the stain make the deck more slippery?
Bruce, please read this about new wood: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
It does not make the wood slippery.
100 or 1500 for the dock? Are there any dealers in the Minneapolis- St. Paul area?
100 for MN. We sell only online in your area.
Thanks!
I understand not staining the bottom of a deck, but six months ago I built 110′ of cedar fence. My neighbor was supposed to pay half, but never did, so I’m reluctant to spend the time and money to stain their side. Since both sides are exposed to the elements, would staining just my side lead to more cracking, warping, cupping, etc.?
Nick P, it would be vary hard to only stain one side as it will most likely belled through some to the other side. Both sides should be done on a fence as it is exposed.
At this point I don’t really care what the other side looks like. Since I haven’t been paid for my neighbors’ part of the construction cost I don’t want to invest any more of my time and money to stain their side. If some stain bleeds through, which is unlikely given the small gaps between the 1×6 vertical pickets, so be it. My concern is damaging the fence. Will having one side sealed and the other side not sealed cause uneven drying, warping, cracking, checking, cupping, etc.?
NickP, it would be better for the wood if all sides of the fence were stained. This would prolong the life from cracking and warping. Sorry your neighbor is a pain 🙁