116.9K
Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
We are here to help you with your TWP exterior deck or wood restoration project for 2024!
TWP is an advanced wood preservative/protectant registered by the EPA. Performance and longevity can vary though depending on the wood type, how the wood is prepped, the age of wood, and how the TWP is applied. We want everyone who has decided to use TWP 100, 1500, or 200 Series to have the best possible results.
TWP Stain Tips and Help
When asking questions please give us some information about your wood restoration project:
- What structure is your wood? Examples would be: Deck, Wood Siding, Fence, etc
- What species is the wood? Examples: Treated Pine, Cedar, Redwood, Ipe, etc
- Is the wood new or older than 1 year?
- Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Please specify brand name and type of stain used: Examples: Solid stain, Semi-Transparent Stain, etc.
- Any additional info that would be useful
Once you supply us with the information, we will able to give you advice as to how to prep your wood and any needed instructions for the TWP application.
Please ask your questions in the comment area.
Thanks
Do you deliver at Niagara Falls, NY 14301
We can deliver the 1500 or 200 series to NY addresses.
Hello, I live in South Florida (ft laud) and I have a 60′ Dock. The dock is exposed to and east / west exposure. Its in the direct sun all day. Which product do you recommend. Looking for waterproof and UV protection with a stain. Thanks
Try the TWP Semi-Solid for best UV protection: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-semi-solid-pro-series
i applied twp stain 2 years ago i wanted to wait one more year before doing it again. How can i clean deck without removing the stain and protection. thanks
You need a full prep. Use the Gemini Restore Kit and then recoat.
do you have dealers or just online ordering
We personally are an online dealer for TWP products.
My contractor used 203 (Cedar) Gold on my back decks (part cedar, part pressure treated) a few years ago. I understand 100 and 1500 are better suited for decks, however. Now, as I’m about to re-stain myself… should I use 203 Gold again, or switch to 100 or 1500? If so, is there a close color match to 203 Gold? Perhaps 1515 Honeytone? Thanks, Dave in Georgia
You will need to strip and brighten if you want to switch. Clean and brighten if you do not switch. The closest color would be the Honeytone to the Cedar Gold 203.
I used TWP1500 on my deck a year ago. The sealant is still working because the water still beads. The wood needs some cleaning though (some mold/mildew on certain areas). What product can I use to clean the deck without it stripping the TWP sealant? I’ll be using my power washer.
Try some warm water with a little bit of dish soap.
What are the differences in quality/performance between the 100, 200, 1500, and Pro products? We have an existing deck in North Idaho that can get a lot of sun and snow. What would you recommend? Thanks
The difference is VOCs for the most part. In ID, you can use any of them but the 100 Series or the Pro Semi-solid colors would be your best option.
I just built a 1000 sq. ft timber frame pavilion. Want to use a semi-transparent stain. The wood is douglas fir beams and yellow pine tongue and grove ceiling. should I use the 100 or 1500 stain? What is the difference? The wood was cut about 2 months ago. How soon can I paint it? I was thinking about power washing before I stain to remove any dirt or sawdust, etc. I assume I should wait at least 2 or 3 days after power washing the wood. We are in North Texas.
See this about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Use the TWP 100 Series after wait and prep.
My deck is 3 years old and has had TWP 1500 on it the past 2 seasons.
The finish is very splotch and dirty after having our roof replaced last year. What should I clean with before applying twp again this spring?
The Gemini Restore A Deck Kit and pressure washing: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Can TWP stain be used on a Therma Tru exterior door that has faded and been pet scratched in the last 10 years? If so, what kind of surface preparation is necessary? I’ll appreciate any help you can share with me. We have used TWP to refinish our deck twice. Many thanks.
Sorry but TWP is not designed for exterior doors.
We have a new pressure treated pine wood deck that we would like to use TWP 100 Dark Oak on now that it has weathered for 7 months. Our questions comes in with the Yardistry Gazebo built on the top of the deck. Yaridstry states it is “manufactured with Cedar (C. Lanceolata) which is protected with a factory applied water-based stain”. Yardistry recommends an annual application of a water-based water repellent sealant or stain. They specifically do not recommend using an oil based product. Would there be a reason they would say this? I would like to use TWP 100 on it so that it will match the deck. If I can use it, what would you recommend we do for prep on the gazebo? If I can’t use it, is there a water-based alternative that would color match?
You can use TWP on cedar wood without issues but you have to remove the factory-installed stain first by stripping and brightening.
I just had a new deck installed by a contractor. Part of the wood gets wet when it rains and the majority is protected in a covered space. The pressure treated wood was stained and treated with TWP 100 series sealant about a month ago.
I recently checked the deck with a moister meter since it appeared the wood was cupping and had some cracks. The exposed wood was still wet compared with the wood that was covered by a roof which was dry.
It rained approximately 3 days ago.
Can you comment on this? What could be an explanation for the wetness in the wood?
Is this an application issue, or an expected finding?
Not sure they followed the directions for new wood:
https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
In general water from rain will make the wood internally wet. It is not an issue.
Shouldn’t the sealant prevent internal wetness? Isn’t that the point of preventing damage? Could you please comment on the multiple linear cracks and discoloration on this new deck?
No, TWP is breathable so it does not prevent or seal the wood 100%. No stain or sealer should do that as it would lead to dry rot. The linear cracks are from the wood type and are normal. It has nothing to do with the TWP stain.
I have an existing log sided cabin which is 15 years old, this will be the third staining completed. I just added on an addition with log siding and looking to stain both the existing and new. What is the best option in an attempt to match, as close as possible? I prefer to be on the lighter more natural side, but the existing siding has got darker over the years with age and couple coats of stain.
Post some pics for prep help and what stain brand was used prior?
I’ve attached two photos, one of the siding under the porch, so out of elements. The other photo of the exposed siding to elements. My current plan is to power wash existing, stain then select the color which matches for the new siding. I wasn’t sure how much color would come out with power washing. Also, I’m not sure what brand or color of stain was used on the last coat.
You need to remove teh previous coating so best to use the RAD Stripper while pressure washing and then RAD Brightener after. https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
After the prep is done, use the TWP 1500 Series in any color you like.
The stripper and brightener brings the existing wood back to original to match the new wood?
As close as possible, yes.
Will the stripper or brightener be harmful to the metal roof, gutters or windows?
Always pre wet and rinse any overspray right away to avoid any issues.
Since staining my new deck in 2018, I restained again in 2020. I’m planning on restaining again here in 2023. I’ve always prepped the deck properly and have used TWP 120 Pecan both times. I’m going use the Pecan again. Love the color by the way. Will I need to strip the stain since this is my 3rd go around or can I just clean and brighten as usual?
Thanks
Clean brighen should be sufficient prep.
Stained every year since 2019 because it gets so much afternoon sun. What kind of prep should I do being that it’s an annual thing.
Use this for prep: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Hi.
Since staining my new deck in 2018, I restained again in 2020. I’m planning on restaining again here in 2023. I’ve always prepped the deck properly and have used TWP 120 Pecan both times. I’m going use the Pecan again. Love the color by the way. Will I need to strip the stain since this is my 3rd go around or can I just clean and brighten as usual?
Thanks,
Matt
Please post some pics in the comments for prep advice.
I have a barn that was just built in Maryland with Eastern White Pine board-and-batten siding. What would you recommend for the best product to protect the wood, and how long do I need to wait before staining it? Also, we have carpenter bees in our area, I was planning on using bug juice in the stain, but if I have to wait a while before applying the stain, is there anything I should do to protect the wood in the meantime?
Also, how frequently will I have to re-stain the wood to protect it?
Thanks in advance!
See here about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Use the 1500 Series after wait and prep: https://www.twpstain.com/wood-and-deck-stains/twp-wood-stains/twp-1500-series
Leave as is during the weathering. Redo every 3-5 years is normal.
Thanks for the response – I did see the article on new wood – I’m pretty sure my board and batten siding would fall under “rough sawn vertical wood”. It’s definitely not perfectly smooth, there aren’t rough saw marks, but it’s got a rough wood grain texture to it. Is there a moisture threshold I should use to make sure it’s “dry enough” or a test to evaluate whether it’s absorbent enough?
Is there a reason you recommend the 1500 series over the 100 series? I see the temperature needs to be above 45 degrees for application – does it need to remain that warm overnight, or is it ok if the temperature drops after application? Just trying to determine if I can apply soon if we get a warm day, or I need to wait until sustained warmer weather.
Also, if I need to wait, will it be ok to leave the wood untreated for a few months as long as it’s not aged oxidized?
It should be less than 15%. You cannot use the 100 Series in MD. It cannot drop below freezing the first night . If you wait, the prep kit will remove any oxidation.
Question on staining a deck, wood is 20 years old. I have always used some form of TWP stain on it. Recently sanded the decking boards to get down to new wood. Wood is older pressure treated pine. Last stain was a 200 series TWP which took a really long time to cure. Looking for something faster curing. Any suggestions
Where are you located?
Raleigh NC
Use the TWP 100 Series: https://www.twpstain.com/wood-and-deck-stains/twp-wood-stains/twp-100-series
Can I get that in the Butternut Brown? That was the last stain color I used.
No, only the 200 Series comes in that color.
Can I apply a Cetol Marine over TWP 1500?
No, you cannot apply Cetol Marine over any exterior wood stain. It would peel if you did.
Hi. I have stained my fir logs with TWP 1500 Honeytone. My question is that now I would like to restain with a darker tone. I was wondering if that is possible and if so what preparation do I need to do ?
Thank you
Prep with the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit and then you can stain it a darker color.
Hi!
Trying to decide on the most durable stain for our ~6 month old treated pine fence that has never been stained in Middle, TN.
I’m unclear on the advantages of the 100 series vs. the semi solid vs. 200 series for the project. Is it correct that the semi solid will hide more of the grain similar to a paint, but block additional UV? If we had a color preference across the series, would all of the 3 be viable?
The Semi-solid colors will offer the best UV protection but will also show less grain of the wood compared to the 100 or 1500 Series. The colors are not the same for each series.
Our house is 22 year old cypress log house. We have always used the 100 series in cedartone to stain with and always satisfied with the results. Our porch floor however always wears off rather quickly and I have used the 100 and 1500 series. I also see where you have a new product added in 2021. Any tips on which product I should be using especially on the porch? I have been thinking about painting the porch instead of staining.
Try the TWP semi-solid stain for the porch.
Hello-I am using TWP clear stain on some bamboo paneling I am putting up in my kitchen. I am wondering if you carry the additive(I don’t know it’s name) that inhibits growth of mold on bamboo?
Sorry, we do not and there is already mildewcide in the TWP stains.
I used Gemco TWP 101 Cedartone on my new fence in 2010 and again in 2015. In 2020 I just did the 2 x 4′ fir cross boards and touched-up some cedar 6-foot fence boards that needed it. So, is it necessary to do a complete re-do of the cedar fence boards again any time s
Yes, you will need to redo all when it is needed. Prep and restain.
New wood, vertical exterior shed walls constructed of yellow pine. Approximately 200 square feet. Exposed to the weather for 1 year. In late spring I plan to use Natural stain and either 100 Series or 1500 Series.
Questions – How to determine which sealer to use (100 vs. 1500)? How many gallons will I need?
Which to use depends on where you live and the state’s VOC laws.
Can I apply TWP 115 Honeytone to our cleaned deck if the temperature is in the low 50s during the day, but below freezing at night?
Thanks
It should not drop below freezing the first night after staining.
Need Advice re How to Remove TWP Smudges from TREX Deck Board:
Four days ago our contractor (who did an otherwise great job staining our redwood railings, caps, and stair risers) was applying TWP stain (4:1 mixture of California Redwood and Redwood) to a redwood kicker board located between Sand colored TREX decking and the tiled entry in front of the front door. He accidentally got several 3-5 inch smudges on a couple of the adjacent TREX boards when he leaned against them with his hand while holding a rag he was using to wipe excess stain. He tried rubbing the smudges with a rag, but that did not help, and maybe spread them a bit.
The smudges are obvious on the lighter colored TRX, but seem to be superficial, and are not nearly as dark as the stain color on all the redwood.
Would appreciate advice re how to remove the smudges without making them worse, or degrading the TREX surface and color. FYI, We are located just north of San Francisco, where over the next few months, temps range from 40’s to 60’s F., and hopefully we’ll have periods of rain.
Sorry, but we do not know of a way to remove the TWP and at the same time, prevent any potential damage to the Trex boards. Using a graffiti remover or deck stain stripper should remove the TWP but we have no idea if it will or will not harm the Trex.
We recently had a wooden covered porch built using rough sawn Douglas Fir posts and spiders, cedar wrapped beams, and pine tongue and groove (car siding) for the ceiling. Is the TWP the right product to use on this structure? If so, can this be stained right away without the waiting period? We would like for the wood grain to show through but also have a pigment to protect from graying so would you recommend an oil base semi-transparent? Which series would be best for new rough sawn wood, the 100 or the 1500? We are able to receive the 100 series in Oklahoma.
A painter suggested a water based clear coat for the car siding on the ceiling, and Sherwin Williams Woodscapes for the structure. Another said to use Sherwin Williams Superdeck on the structure and the ceiling. How does your product compare to those that we can purchase locally? Thanks for your help!
If it is rough sawn, then you can stain now. Use the 100 Series. It is allowed on OK. TWP is a much higher-rated wood stain then SW products. You can search this on the internet.
1.The pine car siding is not rough sawn. Would you still recommend the 100 series for it? 2.Is there any prep we need to do before we stain the car siding?
See this about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Use the 100 Series after waiting and prep.
Thank you for your help! I read the article and understand you should wait 4-12 months to stain new, smooth wood. Would that recommendation change if the new pine car siding has been kiln dried? I used a moisture meter to test a piece of the car siding that has been indoors for a few days and it read 5.0%. I haven’t tried the moisture meter on the wood outside. Is there a recommendation for how low the percentage of moisture should be before staining? Just double checking because we had planned to stain it before the electrician came to install the lights. Sounds like we should wait on staining and let him go ahead and install the lights.
Kiln dried is 1-2 months to wait and then the same prep with the Gemini Restore kit. It is not about moisture % but the porosity of the wood.
I recently received samples from you of TWP105 Cape Cod and TWP Semi-solid Mount Rushmore. Neither color matched the color of gray I need to stain over my existing gray but when I mix the two together that resulting color is closer to what I want. Can TWP 105 and TWP Semi-solid be mixed together and have a viable product that will last and perform as good as they would separately? I have a 38-year-old log house made from hemlock that has been stained previously with oil-based stains and some recently added western cedar trim wood that I’m letting age 6 months before staining.
Yes, you can mix these two colors.
Hello, just had a new deck built in Emerald Isle, NC (roughly 500 sq ft of treated pine). Contractor finished the build on 9/23. He said to go ahead and stain now. Is that correct? Your website says to wait 4-12 months for new wood. Thanks.
No, he is wrong.
Hello, I treated a PT in Florida deck twice with TWP-100, one coat of “cedartone” in early 2018, and again, a year later with “pecan”. The deck has pretty much faded, but remnants of the old color remain. Can I recoat using Semi-Solid-Pro in “cedar chest” after using the Gemini clean and brightening steps without needing to strip?
Thanks,
No, you should strip and brighten for the prep when switching to the semi-solid colors.
I applied the 1500 series in July 2020. Water is not beading up as it did, so I think it is time for a reapplication. Do I need to remove the old series 1500 stain or just clean the surface?
If only cleaning is necessary, I assume I should apply a very light coat and wipe it down after some period of time. How long would that be?
There is some stain left over from July 2020. The can is well sealed and the can has not been exposed to extreme temperatures. Should the product still be good?
Prep with the Gemini Restore kit and pressure washing. The shelf life is 12 months for opened stain so probably not good anymore.
I live in St. Augustine, FL and have a cypress deck that is about one year old. It has never been treated. Which series of TWP should I use?
I pressure washed a portion of it in preparation for putting down stain/sealer before I found this website. Please advise how to proceed. Is it OK to apply product to dry deck after pressure washing without using deck cleaner/brightener?
Best to use the Gemini Restore kit for prep and then the TWP 100 Series for staining.
I am using restore a deck stripper to remove old stain and have applied it twice. Attached are before, after 1st application and after 2nd application. I still have areas that have stain and I’m not sure what to do. I’m running out of time weather wise and would really like to complete this part of my project. Any advice?
Thank-Laurie
Use both RAD stripper additives with the RAD Stripper. Let dwell for 30-60 minutes then pressure wash off.
When mixing the 3 products together do I have to mix 5 gallons all at once? If so, how long will the mixture be good sitting in a container?
Best to mix them all together. The stripper will be food for many weeks or months as long as it doe snot freeze.
Looking for a dealer in my area.Lafayette la 70508
We sell online only as a TWP Dealer.
I accidentally ordered the wrong color. I ordered 5 gallons of TWP 1500 Series 5 Gallon
Stain Color Cedartone 1501, when I should have ordered TWP 1500 Series 5 Gallon
Stain Color Dark Oak 1503. Is there any way to return this 5 gallons? It has not been used.
Reply from your order email for assistance. Thanks
The painter our covered deck/porch builder recommended stained the floor with TWP Dark Oak yesterday (Friday) evening. Not sure if he used the 100 or 1500 series; he suggestrd TWP and we merely chose the color. Wood is PT pine, I believe kiln-dried.
The painter advised us to stay off of it until Monday; it’s Saturday morning, and we are doing a good job resisting the temptation to go out on it. We’re pleased with the finish and it does appear dry, with very few shiny spots. I did open the back door and touched the wood with my fingertips; it’s definitely dry to the touch, but rubbing a paper towel on it resulted in some dark transfer onto the paper towel. Fully understand that it’s early in the drying/curing process so I suppose this is to be expected?
Unfortunately it’s cloudy today, around 70F, with fairly high humidity (77%). Tomorrow is supposed to be sunnier. The electricians and the deck builder are supposed to come back on Monday (roughly 64 hours after staining) to finish the electrical work and install screens; should I propose delaying until Tuesday to give it more of a chance to cure? Should I go out there and check any of the small areas that appear to be slightly shiny, or just leave them be for now?
After the crew has finished up, how much longer should we wait before allowing our cats to join us out there? We are anxious for them to be able to do so but don’t want them to get anything dangerous on their paws. Should we wipe the wood down with rags until they are clean?
Thanks!
It is not fully cured but dry to the touch. Stay off for another day or two for you and the cats until no more rub off.
Thanks! Have a good weekend!
We installed a bamboo fence a few weeks ago and would like to treat it with TWP. Which product of yours would work best for this application?
Also, it has already rained a couple times since we put up the fence, but it was only a few weeks ago. Would we still need to clean it before applying TWP?
Thanks!
You would need the TWP 300 series for bamboo but we do not carry it at our online store.
I have an older treated pine deck. I prepped it with two different RestoraDeck processes. I let it dry for a three days. Then I applied TWP pro100 cedartone. All was well, but I ran a little short of stain and ended up putting a single coat over the last half of the deck. It looks ok, but I am concerned it will not have the protection and wearability of the rest of the deck. Can I put another coat of stain over the new stain in a few days?
No, it will not take now. You can lightly clean and apply a light coat next Spring.
I built a fence 8 or so years ago and have used TWP 101 Cedartone on it….I have had it re-done 1 time since then approx 4yrs ago. We have always done a wet on wet application for 2 coats. So technically that original fence has 4 coats on it. Just recently we added on to the same fence and after the proper drying time, I cleaned the entire fence, original and new. I have stained the new fence with the same 101 Cedartone color and the same wet on wet 2 coats as usual application and only applied one coat to the older/original fence…..the older fence is showing quite a bit darker and doesn’t match the newer sections. Is this normal? Will the areas blend together over time, or should I apply more coats over the newer section in an attempt to darken it? If so, I’ve always rolled the stain on, should I possibly try another coat with the pump spray method? Or am I just reaching here and the older fence will never match the newer?
Yes, new wood is less absorbent so it will always stain lighter than older wood. In a couple of years after proper prep, it will blend better. Do not add more now. Strip and brighten all in a couple of years and stain then.
Is morning dew going to ruin my deck finish layed down the day before?
Cleaned and brightened the cedar deck yesterday and woke up to a dew covered raw deck.
I planned to put down a coat of 1500 clear today. I will wait till it dries later in the afternoon, but there will probably be similar dew issue tomorrow morning. Will that be a major concern?
Thanks for your help. Stay safe and be well…….elliot
The dew cannot get on the TWP if the stain is still well and not dry. If it is fully dry, then it should be okay.
I have new cedar boards in an outdoor chair with Thompson’s Water Seal applied in August of 2020. I have purchased TWP 100 to refinish the chair. What is the procedure for removing the Thompson’s and preparing the wood to receive the TWP 100?
Use this prep kit: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
What structure is your wood? Shutters
What species is the wood? Cedar – made w/ smooth side showing
Is the wood new or older than 1 year? Aged after they built for 1+ year in the sun
Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? No
Any additional info that would be useful: I aged these shutters, bought 5 gal of TWP semi-solid pro-series, charcoal tint and Gemini RAD. Yesterday I set out to clean/brighten the shutters. I sprayed step 1 on w a pump sprayer, kept wet and on for at least 15 min. Pressure washed off. Sprayed the brightener on w pump sprayer and hosed off with water hose.
Pic 1: Front of shutter (smooth side) after RAD – strong rivets in wood w/ multiple textures (the rivets were not previously there)
Pic 2: Back of shutter (rough side) after RAD – huge amounts of a “furry” wood layer
Pic 3: Front of shutter (smooth side) after RAD w 2 coats of stain
Pic 4: back of shutter (rough side) bottom section is after RAD w light sanding of the “furry” wood + 2 coats and the top portion is after RAD not being sanded but w 2 coats stain.
Pic 5: Front of shutter (smooth side) after RAD w 2 coats of stain, but shutter did not have as many of the issues after RAD (furry texture/rivets/different textures) as the other shutters.
I am concerned about:
The “furry” wood and do I stain over it as is, should I sand it, or has something gone wrong. (most of the “furry” looking wood is on the back, but some areas on the fronts have this texture)
The rivets w different wood textures which as I stain over, parts of the smoother parts exposed vs the rough parts exposed does not receive the stain such as the rough parts, it also leaves a shiny effect where the wood is smooth. I understand rough wood accepts stain better than smooth, but the wood was not riveted before I cleaned them. Do I continue to stain the shutters with the chance the stain will not be absorbed on part of the wood resulting in a zebra look, or do I clean them again and risk the same affect happening. My plan was to stain the shutters (back and front in a couple of days.
Overall, I am concerned that I did something wrong. This is my first large stain project and first time to use the cleaner/brightener. I have multiple other large projects that are next in line to be stained with the TWP 100 series… screened porch in cedar, deck and Adirondacks in pressure treated, and a side covered porch in cedar. I do not want to ruin any of the cedar (or the pressure treated pine, but it may react differently). When I look at the cedar screen porch (Pic 6) which has been aging for over a year, I see that cedar does have the natural rivers/rivets in it. I feel like the process cleaning the shutters has accentuated those rivets and gouged out part of the wood for no reason. I wonder if the process I used should be tweaked when I clean/brighten the other cedar projects.
Furring happens from oxidation removal. See here for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
The rivets happened from being too aggressive with your pressure washing.
Basically, you should power sand it all evenly using 60-80 grit paper to fix and then stain.
I’m trying to understand the whole process… If I now sand the wood to eliminate the furring and level out the rivets, will that not bring me back to ground zero where it would need to be cleaned and brightened again to open the pores before staining, or should it be ready to stain after blowing and wiping off the sanding dust?
You need to sand to fix the issues, then brighten after. More of a pressure wash rinse to open the pores with the brightener to open the wood grain and remove sand dust.
Can I use clear twp on a black walnut log that I want to use as centerpiece for my table
Clear will not prevent UV graying. Must be a tinted color.
Embarrasssed to ask this: how do I open a 1 gallon can of series 100 stain. It has a plastic ring around the top that I can’t get by.
The white ring pops off and is only there for shipping. Use your fingers or pliers. Pry inwards.
I am in northern California. I have a redwood deck, 20 years old, I last restained it 6 years ago with Superdeck semi-transparent stain (Redwood or Heart). Now I want to use TWP 1500 series, either Cedartone or California Redwood. I plan to use a Cleaner & Brightener to prepare it. Any suggestions. Thank you.
You need to use the RAD Stripper and Brightener for prep.
Do you mean that I should use the RAD Stripper and Brightener instead of the Cleaner and Brightner or in addition to. Thank you.
instead
We have a teak deck. Can we use your system to clean, brighten, and stain on it?
Yes, just one coat for teak.
Would this product work for Pine tongue and groove ceilings on exterior porches? Does a sealer need to be applied over the stain?
Yes, it will work. You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain.
I just took over maintenance of an outdoor play structure that includes some white oak whole timber and some black locust decking. We keep the white oak treated with TWP 1500 clear, but are trying to leave the black locust unfinished. Unfortunately, when the timbers were being sprayed with TWP, overspray got onto the black locust. (Pics attached)
Would the Restore-A-Deck kit remove the overspray stains from the black locust? Also, are there TWP products suitable for use on black locust? I’ve seen info suggesting that most finishes will leave it sticky due to the tight grain.
You would need to use the RAD stripper and Brightener kit to remove it. You can use the TWP on the Black Lotus. Just one light coat. Do not over-apply as it is a hardwood.
Thank you! Do you think it would be okay to spot-treat with the RAD kit, or should we do entire beams to ensure an even color? And would it be safe to leave the locust unfinished afterward, or would the RAD open up the pores too much?
You cannot spot treat. You would need to do all for an even color.
I am in need of some help regarding re-staining a fence that had TWP stain applied to it that was damaged during a hail storm. We have a customer that had her fence re-stained but the hail hits can be seen through the new stain application. She previously had and also re-stained the fence with TWP1500 Dark Oak Stain. I am looking to verify what the correct procedure is to clean/remove the old stain prior to applying a new layer of stain.
Can you post some pics?
Here are a couple pictures of the fence after it was pressure washed and re-stained. Trying to verify what the proper procedure is for removing TWP stain so it can re-stained without showing the hail hits. I did not know if there is a certain product you use when chemically washing the fence prior to applying new stain to ensure all old stain is removed first.
Strip and brighten all wood down to the bare wood with this kit: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail