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Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
We are here to help you with your TWP exterior deck or wood restoration project for 2024!
TWP is an advanced wood preservative/protectant registered by the EPA. Performance and longevity can vary though depending on the wood type, how the wood is prepped, the age of wood, and how the TWP is applied. We want everyone who has decided to use TWP 100, 1500, or 200 Series to have the best possible results.
TWP Stain Tips and Help
When asking questions please give us some information about your wood restoration project:
- What structure is your wood? Examples would be: Deck, Wood Siding, Fence, etc
- What species is the wood? Examples: Treated Pine, Cedar, Redwood, Ipe, etc
- Is the wood new or older than 1 year?
- Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Please specify brand name and type of stain used: Examples: Solid stain, Semi-Transparent Stain, etc.
- Any additional info that would be useful
Once you supply us with the information, we will able to give you advice as to how to prep your wood and any needed instructions for the TWP application.
Please ask your questions in the comment area.
Thanks
Just started applying TWP 100 Cedartone to spindles and top rail, did three sets the top rail and side boards are very shiny drying. How can I fix before going further?
See here: https://twpstainhelp.com/properly-applying-twp-stain-so-it-does-not-dry-shiny/
I am currently using TWP100 and was wondering if there was a uv additive I can purchase for it? Or what would be compatible to go over what I have that has a uv protectant in it? Thank you
The TWP 100 clear has no tint and therefore no UV protection. All of the tinted TWP colors will have UV protection. It is not possible to add UV protection besides mixing in one of the TWP tinted colors into the clear.
Hi there. I ordered samples of 1500 in Rustic, Natural, California Redwood, and Redwood. I applied a bit of each to the same piece of redwood fencing (rough cut, very dry), and after a few days I misted with water. The Rustic beaded very well, but the other three did not bead at all. See attached photo. Should I expect the same outcome if I get a full 5-gallon bucket? The Rustic will bead better? Or is this just a weird anomaly?
TWP is not designed to bead water. High-quality stains like TWP are breathable and therefore do not bead but rather shed water.
Thanks
Today I should be receiving my delivery of stain and Gemini kit and sprayer. What is the procedure for the cleaner and brightener kit. I will be applying it with the sprayer, but after that, is it scrub or power wash, or both?
Pressure wash off.
Hi, my deck is about 8 months old – cedar – I used the deck cleaner and brighter about a week ago, but have not had 48 hours of 100% clear weather in order to get the deck stained. My question is how long can I wait to stain the deck before I have to use a cleaner again – should I worry that it’ll start to gray again if it takes a few weeks before I can stain?
2 weeks. If longer, lightly clean and brighten again.
Can you explain lightly clean? Not sure if you’re referring to the cleaner product (my initial method was simply spraying it on and power washing it off).
And, as a follow up, assuming I don’t get it stained before the trees let loose this fall, am I ok to just clean and brighten in the spring?
Use the Gemini Cleaner and Brightener kit and go over it lightly with a pressure washer. You can do the same in Spring if needed.
I have a mix of old, 2 yr old, and new cedar shake siding exposed in a coastal environment. The old is in very good condition because I applied Cabot Bleaching Oil every 5-7 years. It allows the wood to discolor to gray naturally. I did not coat the 2 yr old shakes and they are quite dry and brittle now (wish I had). The Bleaching Oil is an excellent product for my circumstances but it is no longer made, apparently due to VOC concerns. It contained good oils and a light amount of pigment. The “replacement” product is a water based stain called Bleaching Stain which will no doubt provide some color but I doubt it will preserve the wood as well as the oil-based product. I am therefore reluctant to apply it. Do you have a product similar to the Cabot Bleaching Oil or can you refer me to a manufacturer who does have it? Perhaps your TWP 100 will provide protection but I am not interested in the near solid stain outcome (Cape Cod Gray) that appears to be the only option available. Please advise and if there is a product available where I might purchase it in the Brunswick, Maine area (04011).
We do not have a similar product nor do we know of any. The 100 Series is not allowed in Maine.
Preparing to build a retaining wall with 6×6, pressure treated yellow pine, 16’ long. 6×6’s are less than a year old (presumably), but appear quite dry—-less than 15% moisture. Wall to be back filled with soil/gravel, subject to moderate rain, irrigation, etc. Appearance (I.e color, etc.) is not a factor. Extra protection against rot, etc. as well as waterproofing is the goal.
Does TWP have a product recommended for this project?
Thank you.
Tom Shupe
TWP is more for above grade (the ground) wood, not below grade.
I have a 5 year old pressure treated pine deck. It had TWP 100 applied 3-4 years ago. For prep I just power washed the entire deck. So far I have only stained the railings and posts and not the floor. This was my first time applying stain and I applied it too thick with 1 coat. The majority of the railing and spindles are still tacky and have a sheen to them, as well as a few spots where I can see the stain drip lines. My question is what should I do from here. Wipe down tacky areas with mineral spirits and wipe off excess? Or clean and powerwash it off and start over. I would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
I should have mentioned that I put TWP 100 on again this time. I was holding off staining the floor until I figured out what to do with the railing.
Strip it off and then brighten the wood: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Fir deck 1500 series. Why does this happen on the edges of where rain accumulates? I prepped with cleaner and brightener. I applied 2 weeks ago. Weather has been warm. It rained and this occurred all over. Now im worried about using 100 series on a new fence i am building.
That is water spots from the rain. Nothing to do with the stain. It should wipe off with a wet rag.
Thanks. I wiped it off with a damp rag.
I have a mix of old, 2 yr old, and new cedar shake siding exposed in a coastal environment. The old is in very good condition because I applied Cabot Bleaching Oil every 5-7 years. It allows the wood to discolor to gray naturally. I did not coat the 2 yr old shakes and they are quite dry and brittle now (wish I had). The Bleaching Oil is an excellent product for my circumstances but it is no longer made, apparently due to VOC concerns. It contained good oils and a light amount of pigment. The “replacement” product is a water based stain called Bleaching Stain which will no doubt provide some color but I doubt it will preserve the wood as well as the oil-based product. I am therefore reluctant to apply it. Do you have a product similar to the Cabot Bleaching Oil or can you refer me to a manufacturer who does have it? Perhaps your TWP 100 will provide protection but I am not interested in the near solid stain outcome (Cape Cod Gray) that appears to be the only option available. Please advise and if there is a product available where I might purchase it in the Brunswick, Maine area (04011).
We do not have anything similar nor do we know of anything similar. TWP also can not be applied over the Cabot Bleaching oil.
I just recently purchased/put up a new Cedar fence about 2-3 months ago.How soon should I wait before treating it?I also want to keep the pinkish natural color as best I can.I’ve used your product on my deck but not sure if 1530 natural would be best or 1500 clear for keeping color plus same protection.
See here about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Clear will not provide any UV protection, must be tinted. See photo album for some help deciding: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series-stain-colors-and-photo-albums/
Hello.
I have a client who has a cedar fence which has been previously stained with TWP. We are wanting to PW and restain, I will not be removing old stain. The stain has worn VERY well in most areas. Client is unsure of what product was used but believes it was either TWP207 Butternut Brown or TWP206 Russett Brown.
I will order samples so client can finalize color. What product will I need to restain the fence?
Prep with the Gemini Kit first: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Then stain with the TWP 200 Series color that you would like.
I have a log home that was stained with TWP 1500 series five years ago. I am going to re-stain the home with TWP stain but I would like to use a lighter color. What product should I use to remove the old stain? Thank you.
Use this kit while pressure washing: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
our deck was stained with a water based stain from Home depot including rails and spindols. We plan on staining with TWP 100. Do we have to strip every bit of water based stain off the whole deck including the rails and spindols before we can stain with TWP 100?
Yes.
Your team has recommended the 100 series for our new pressure treated pine fence. Our contractor wants to use a single coat of the 200. I worry a little that the 200 stain will look too opaque. Can you explain why the 100 is a better choice? Or is it just preference?
The TWP 200 is not opaque. The 100 Series soaks into new wood better than the 200 Series.
Thanks so much! One other quick question. Do we need to choose a pigmented product over the clear to get the most overall protection?
Clear will gray naturally and not offer UV protection.
Great! That answers everything, and I think i’ve Found a color we like. You’ve been very helpful!
How much stain do I need for 400 sq ft?
About 4 gallons for two coats.
We enlarged our deck using the original boards 15+ yrs old and new pine boards. We peeped by cleaning, pressure washing, and sanding old boards. We’ve stained in sections and had to sand down the older board again this time to remove the stain as it was splotchy after a rain that wasn’t in the forecast. Once we sanded, stain remained in areas that are weathered deeper in the wood. Do I need to get this stain out of the grooves or can I restain as is? The picture shows one of the new boards not affected by rain.
Best to get all of the old stain out first. Strip and brighten to remove more while pressure washing.
I built a redwood tabletop out of kiln-dried S45 redwood 2×6 lumber. I want to know if TWP 1502 would be safe for a table that will be used for eating off of, or should I use a water-based product. Just worried about any type of health risk that may be present with an oil based product used on an outdoor dining table. I know it is a great product for decks and railing, but didn’t want to have to use a separate water-based product for the tabletop.
There are no health risks once the TWP has fully dried and cured.
How do I lighten the stain/ change color of TWP 100?
The stain I applied turned out to be too dark. Can I removed the stain without remaining the clear preservative that has hopefully sunk into the wood?
Strip and start over is the only way: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
I need to stain a bridge that goes over my pond. I have removed the bridge and put it in the garage. Once the stain is dry, and I put the bridge back over the pond, will the rain run off hurt my fish? Or is it only harmful if wet stain drips into the water?
Once fully cured, the TWP will not run off with rain.
New house to us. Southwest Michigan. Wraps around 2.5 sides of the house and is around 1200 square feet total (I think). The main section, with spindles and railings, is south facing. We just got these replacement boards, spindles, and railing in here to take care of some that had split or gone soft. Question is, with the new wood, do we wait on cleaning/staining everything until the spring so it can weather? The previous owner of the house could not remember the last time the deck had been stained, and I know it needs it with how much sun and snow it gets. I hate to let it go another winter without more protection and don’t want to lose even more boards that way, but unsure how to proceed. As it is September 1 our window for the weather cooperating to stain it isn’t quite lining up with how long it seems like the new wood should weather. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Also, can we power wash the spindles, if carefully and on low enough pressure?
Best to wait for new wood to season. Do it all in the Spring is the correct way to proceed.
Thank you very much. I appreciate the help.
I have a cedar dock. Dock is 5 years old. Has previously been stained with Thompsons waterproof semi transparent stain in cedar color. We have had to restain every 1 1/2 to 2 years.
Will TWP stain work on this? What series?
What steps in prep?
Can you recommend the color to use close to the cedar color we had?
You will need to remove the current stain first fully. Strip and sand to remove it all. Brighten the wood after. Use the TWP 1500 Series. Any color that you like.
I’m about to restain my mahogany decking and want to know how soon after cleaning do I have to stain. Can I wait 1 week before reapplying the TWP? Thanks
Yes.
I need another gallon of TWP 1501 stain but not in stock at local stores. I bought previously at Buchheits in Greenville, Il 62246 but only has 5 gal containers in stock.
Your online site wants $20 in shipping for one gallon size. Is there other retailers in my area that carry your stain?
I live in Greenville , Illinois 62246.
Thank you
Sorry but we only ship online to your area.
2 questions: 1. Have an Ipe deck (previously treated with Penofin) — noted that you had comments that say the Penofin has to be removed. Just wondered whether the TWP 100 is the right product for Ipe? 2. Second question, shipping for a gallon is pretty expensive. Do you have any dealers — I’m in zip 02556?
1. Yes, the 100 or 1500 will work. 100 if allowed in your state.
2. We do not.
I have hair line cracks from exposure to sun, etc. These are on my deck floor (clear cedar). Should I fill these first then lightly sand, followed with clean/brighten with Restore a Deck before putting down TWP 100? (TWP is the only stain that has ever been applied.)
If “yes” on filling these what would you recommend for filler? How do I get a consistent coloring over the filled cracks? And, if you recommend sanding what should I use as the final grit?
Thank you for your very professional site and for letting me know answers to these questions.
Dick Flowers
Cell.: (206) 714-5419
Hello. Do not use wood filler on a deck. It will not work and will not “stain” to blend with the TWP. Stands out and looks bad. Cracks are normal so just leave as is.
Project Details/Background:
– 20 year old cedar deck ~30 miles east of Seattle. Approx 1700 sq feet with western exposure (lots of rain, snow, sun)
– Deck had solid “stain” Sherwin Williams cedar tone deckscape
– Summer 2018, removed old solid stain (via lots & lots of sanding); Replaced ~200 sq feet of old board with new boards
– Deck has been aging for 16+ months and has greyed
– I’m 2 weeks away from applying TWP 100 (cedar tone) – just ordered 15gal
– 8/25/2019 I used restore-a-deck on part of the deck to test out the result. I followed the directions “perfectly” with a few modifications. My pressure washer is 2600psi. I used a circular/rotating “surface cleaning” cover at the end of my wand (see pic) to prevent streaks and to make the job easier. I’m pretty sure the resulting psi exceeded the 1000psi max listed on back of restore-a-deck. I’m not aware of how to “turn the psi down” unless I don’t use the cover, use a wider tip (40 degrees) and keep the wand further away from the deck surface.
Questions:
1) The initial results look pretty good (see pic – 48hrs of drying) but I still have little grey or white patches on the boards. These appear to be depressions or spots I simply missed. These white spots can be sanded off. Do I need to 100% remove all grey/white patches (via sanding) before I apply TWP100? In other words, I need to use restore-a-deck then sand (40-grit) ~48 hours afterwards? Or is it good enough with these little white spots? Its not clear to me how these little spots will affect the stain and it will be super tedious to remove all of them.
2) Should I not use the surface cleaner attachment on my power washer since I’m exceeding the recommended PSI? The cover really helps but I’m worried I’m damaging the wood. Note that I tested an area without using the surface cover and it’s clear I’ll need to scrub by hand in addition to just using the wand.
I just want to make sure I’m following the prep perfectly before applying the stain.
Thank you!
1. The spots around the knots are normal and the knots will stain lighter in color. That is normal as well.
2. Use a fan tip not a surface cleaner for wood. the 25 or 40-degree tip.
Planned on starting the cleaning process as noted above next week. But its going to rain. Can I clean my deck using restore-a-deck when its raining? Or should I only perform the cleaning process when its dry?
Light rain but not pouring rain.
Successfully cleaned the deck last Thursday (9/12) using restore-a-deck during a sunny day. Results are great. Unfortunately, it’s been raining ever since. We haven’t been able to string together 3-days of sunny weather for the deck to thoroughly dry out.
Question: How long between cleaning and staining can I delay this? Forecast for at least the next 10 days isn’t looking dry. This will put me at least 3-weeks post-cleaning. I’m worried that the results won’t be very good if we wait that long (maybe the pH balance changes with all the rain?) Should I give up and redo it all next year?
If longer than 2 weeks you will need to lightly wash the deck again and brighten again.
Ok. Thanks. Is there an ideal temperature range to apply the stain [min/max]? Temps are starting to drop here with ~high 60s during the day. Also please confirm I need 3 dry days before I stain (on the 4th dry day). Or can I stain on the 3rd dry day?
45-90. 48 hours of drying after prep.
How long does the stain need to dry before encountering rain?
12-24 hours.
I have a log home previously stained with Penofin Blue label. The deck is a treated deck also previously stained with Penofin blue. The home is 17 years old and was stained on a every 2yr basis. I am not happy with the Penofin. I am wondering if I clean and brighten the old logs and deck, can I then use TWP over the Penofin. I was hoping to avoid the stripping process. Will it be ok to apply TWP after just using the cleaner and brightner. Lots of high ladder work on the logs. Thanks
No, you must remove the Penofin. Strip and brighten with this: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
It is very easy to strip the Penofin.
Just put down new kdat pt pine boards with 1/8” gap. Was going to wait 1-2 months to stain as you recommend, but a couple of days after install it rained and gaps closed and some boards started buckling slightly. Should we have stained before install? What should we do now? Wait the 1-2 months and hope the boards dry out and gaps reappear, then stain? Will the slightly buckling boards settle down when they dry out? Or is this permanent damage? The boards are screwed down, so they aren’t going anywhere, but the swelling is noticeable. Thanks.
Wait the 1-2 months and prep and stain. The buckling would have happened no matter what and hopefully it settles down.
Appreciate the reply- so the stain would not have sealed the KDAT preventing the excessive moisture from the humidity and rain from swelling the unstained boards? To me it seems logical that the stain would have protected the KDAT boards, just trying to understand the physics of it, and why many lumber suppliers recommend staining prior or immediately after installation. In reading your recommendations, it was my thinking that if the KDAT boards needed to weather a bit, that would probably be best for the performance of the stain. I did not want to have the stain fail and have to strip it off and redo. Do lumber suppliers and stain suppliers disagree on how this should be done? Why do they disagree? Is it that the lumber folks recommend what’s best for the wood, and the stain folks recommend what’s best for the stain, without regard for how the wood or stain is impacted by one method or the other. Not looking to point fingers, just trying to arrive at what is best for the deck near and long term. Thanks for any insight.
No, a stain will not 100% seal the wood and would have not prevented it. The stain needs to be able to breathe otherwise you will get rot. Lumber suppliers do not understand the nature of stains and give poor advice. It is not about moisture percentage but the porosity of the wood. You need to let it weather and be prepped so the stain can actually soak in.
Thank you, much appreciated!
Deck has black aluminum spindles. Do these need to be protected from cleaner or TWP 100 Cedar stain? Thanks, Ted
Yes, you do not want the stain on them. The Cleaner and Brightener should be fine but always test first.
I have an 18 month old Cedar deck that has weathered to gray. What cleaner/brightener should I use?
Prep with this: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Hi,
We have a wood deck approximately 400 sq. ft. that is over 30 years old. The deck is situated about 30 ft. above ground in a pine forest. We have snow in winter and the deck can experience snow/ice, including strong winds for an extended period (even after snow removal). Temperatures during winter nights can be as low as minus 20 degree F. When the snow/formed ice melts, the deck can be soaking wet (and cold) for many days/weeks. The deck gets full and partial sun throughout the day in winter and summer. In summer, the air temperature can reach 85-90 degree F. The deck has been stained/painted many times over the years. The last stain was a BEHR two years ago. It didn’t adhere well and was pretty much scraped off during this year’s snow/ice removal. I also believe that the staining was not done properly (having read all these know-how articles). I’m not sure what type of wood it is, but my guess is cedar.
We would like to get a recommendation for necessary process steps, including chemicals/materials required, to prepare the deck surface and to stain it. We would prefer a light brown color stain with gloss, if possible.
Thank you very much.
Joe
TWP does not come in a gloss and any gloss coating will peel on a deck surface. You need a penetrating stain with no gloss like the TWP 100 or 1500 Series. As for prep, please post a picture or two.
HI,
I own a log home and we used TWP 200 series Cedartone on it about 3 years ago. I was going to apply another coat now but locally I have only forum Series 15oo is that ok to use?
No, you should stick with the 200 Series.
Ask A Question Here…ok thank you
I own a log home in Louisiana built around 1988. I bought the home in 1991. It is 1 1/2 story with the bottom section of pine log construction and the top section of cedar board and batten. Since I bought the home, I have maintained it every 3 years or so with semi-transparent stains purchased from my local big box store. Log home maintenance information was not as readily available as it is today. Over time the logs and cedar have darkened from maintenance applications and I want to restore a brighter look. I am in the process of stripping off the old stains in sections with Restore-A-Deck stripper and brightener using a pressure washer which is slow but effective. After all this work, I would like to go back with a semi-transparent, light colored stain that will show the wood grain. I’ve read good things about TWP, Outlast, and Perma-Chink products. I’ve also read where some recommend oil base and some recommend water base. I’ve attached some photos of what I have completed so far. One question I have about your product is will it darken with future maintenance applications? I would appreciate your comments and suggestions. Thank you.
TWP does not darken over time but lightens over time. You would want the TWP 100 Series for this: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series
See here for some pictures to help decide on the color: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series-stain-colors-and-photo-albums/
Thanks for your response. I get some fuzzing of the wood fibers due to the pressure washer. Should I sand or buff the logs prior to applying the stain or can I stain over the fuzzing?
You can stain over.
I am refinishing my cedar deck which is 12 years old. The wood is in decent condition, cracks in some of the boards. I have power washed and removed the dirt, mildew, and remnants of previous stain. Plan to sand prior to staining. Live in Minnesota and would like your recommendation for getting the most durable result. Was considering Behr but have changed my mind after hearing some bad experiences. Do love their Woodbridge color…do you have something close?
Thinking semi transparent would look good. How long would would it last? Anyway, I look forward to your response. Thanks for your help!
Use the TWP 100 Series in any color that you like for this deck: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series
Clean and resealing is easy to do every 2-3 years.
I have bamboo fencing, natural color. I would like to protect it and stain it to black walnut. I live in California. Will TWP 1500 in black walnut work for this purpose?
Sorry but no, it will not.
I have a deck that I used TWP 1520 about 3 years ago. Can i clean deck and apply the TWP again ? If yes, what is best way to clean the deck?
Prep with this and pressure washing: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
I have about 430 sq ft of deck, treated pine, +5 years old, previously treated with an oil stain 2 or 3 times. Coverage for 100 series is stated at 100-200 sq ft/gal. But I’m guessing that is highly dependent upon if it’s for a new deck or repeated application. Also, you state 2 coats required. I’m guessing the second coat doesn’t take as much as the first, or is the second coat factored into the 2 coat requirement. So my questions boil down to, how many gallons should I purchase? One final question is what is “Wet on Wet”?
See here about wet on wet: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
Make sure all previous coatings are removed during your prep. See here for the amount needed: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-deck-stain-calculator
I have just bought new cedar siding (it actually was sitting in the storage room of the lumbar yard for some time but looks very good) which I plan to stain w TWP, one coat on each side and then attach the boards vertically to my new bathroom addition. Any ideas?
If new smooth wood, you should follow this advice and not pre-stain: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I am refinishing a badly neglected deck and would appreciate any suggestions as to how to bring together various colors on my house, deck, and steps. The siding has a reddish/pink tone, the deck is redwood, the deck ceiling is a honey color (not sure what type of wood), and deck stairs have been replaced with pressure treated wood. I would like to use semitransparent stain on the deck.
Thank you.
I recently purchased 5 gallons of your series 100 stain for our cabin. Could you please recommend a brand and model number of a sprayer for someone who has never used a sprayer before? Cabin has about 1000 square feet of surface area.
Thanks for your help
https://www.twpstain.com/wood-and-deck-stains/application-tools/chapin-sprayers
Hello! A few quick questions from Southern Oregon (a lot of direct sun in the summer, rain/snow during the winter).
1) New deck made of #2 kiln-dried cedar is 47′ x 8′, with stairs, handrails and 2×2 balusters; it’s been weathering for 4 months now and although we don’t really notice graying, water poured on it does not bead up. So does this indicate that the wood is ready for staining?
2) I can understand cleaning/brightening the deck floor, but do we also need to clean-and-prep the railing/balusters before staining? It seems like it would take forever to clean/prep each baluster; there are so many of them!
3) If we have stain left over, how long is it considered usable? If we open a can today, would it still be good a year from now? What about an unopened can?
Many thanks for your informative website and assistance!
1. Yes.
2. You have to prep all the wood that is being stained.
3. See here: https://twpstainhelp.com/shelf-life-of-twp/
can you apply dark oak over redwood to tone down the red, in redwood
No, that would probably not work. You would need to strip and brighten to switch colors.
I can’t decide which series I need to use to stain my front porch. My porch was built with pressure treated pine almost a year ago so its never had any stain before. Porch is 12×36 with railings and 6 steps on the 2 ends, and it does have a roof but the roof is finished so it doesn’t need stained. I want the dark oak stain but do I need the 100 or the 1500 series, and will the 5 gallon cover it? I live in Tennessee.
Use the TWP 100 Series. Prep first with the Gemini Restore Kit. Use the calculator to the right of this comment (on a desktop or bottom on mobile) to help determine the amount needed.
After application, does TWP transfer? For example, can we use it on wooden benches that people will sit on without the staining transferring to clothes?
It is a full curing stain so no, once fully cured and dry, it does not rub off.
We have TWP 100 series stain on our deck. We are looking at restaining it now. What kind of prep do we need to do if we use TWP 100 again or another type of stain?
Use this when recoating with the TWP: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
And what kind of care is needed when you don’t use TWP next to prep the deck for a another oil paint stain?
When switching brands of stain, you will need to strip the deck.
4yr old treated pine deck posts. Never treated, stained or painted. Just washed with TSP and bleach and a good rinse. Live in TN and should be able to use the 100. Am I ready to stain once I receive your product?
As long as it is clean, you can go ahead and stain.
I have been using TWP products exclusively for the past five years on my 20 year old year deck with fantastic results.
In May of this year I prepped and sealed my cedar deck using Restore-a deck Stripper, Brightener and TWP 1500 Cedartone. Due to the wet weather I was unable to apply 2 coats but the deck still came out awesome as usual. With the winter snow and ice in New Jersey I know I need to apply another coat as soon as possible – hopefully in September. What do I need to do to help my deck accept a second coat – 5 months after the 1st coat? I do not want to power wash the deck again if at all possible. What would you recommend?
Just lightly wash with some soapy water and pressure rinse (not heavy wash) well.
I have an inside surface of a porch previously stained with TWP 101 15 yrs ago and re-stained 6-7 yrs ago which i would like to re-coat for wood protection. Would the clear 100 be best or should I re-apply another coat of 101
Use the101.
Hi – project is a cedar porch, built in 2016, stained with TWP 1500 in Rustic. It has recently been lightly sanded and pressure washed (water only). Please advise if I should order Gemini Restore Kit or the Restore stripper/brightener before staining with Rustic (based on the description, I’m not sure if this is considered “neglected.” Photos attached for reference. Thanks!
Best to use the Stripper/Brightener for best results: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Glad I asked! Thanks for the prompt reply.
One other question – if I use the stripper, then I could stain it a different color, right? (I have a 1,000 sq ft back deck that was done in black walnut in 2016 and also needs to be re-stained. I might do the front in that rather than rustic..) Thoughts?
Yes, you can change colors.
Thanks – assume stripper for back, as well? (Rather than Gemini). Unsure of wood or age. (Photos attached)
Yes, strip back as well. It will be an easy strip for both areas.
Thanks – for future reference, is that because the color is gone is a lot of areas? If we re-stain while the color is intact (going forward), would we use Gemini kit (and follow the site’s “maintenance” tips?) TIA!
Yes and yes.
Used the stripper and brightener yesterday. (I think it turned out well for a novice!) Noticed some white “fuzzy” areas this morning as it’s drying. At first I thought I hadn’t rinsed the brightener enough (40 min with garden hose not the pressure washer), but recalled seeing something about fuzzies in the Q&A, but can’t remember – and can’t find – where I read it. Will it be OK to stain (after the wood is dry of course) or do I need to do anything else? (Photos attached.)
Typically this does not stand out when stained but you can lightly sand this off with 60-80 grit paper.
Thanks – appreciate the fast response (and on a Sunday!)
Hi – Stripped, brightened and stained on 9/1/19. Here’s what it looks like now. Guess I need to plan to re-coat annually. (Northeast is brutal and dogs do a number as well!) Since the stain is now gone in many places, do I strip again or use Gemini? (Any tips appreciated on how to improve my results next time.) Thanks!
Gemini Kit.
Great! Thank you. Will order soon,