Need Some Help With TWP Stains?

Have a pressure treated pine wood trellace with a currently trimmed back dormant Wysteria. Beleive only treated with oil based russet semi-solid brown over 5 years ago. Local paint places only have latex. This is above a white cement deck. Trellace is about + 20 years old and many cracks and splits especially the top end inch of 2X8s. Would like to go to blue-gray, house is white with slate blue accents and roof. Would TWP 200 be better? Live in PA. Have added new pressure treated pine gate to trellace post with blue water based paint that is fading off after 1 year, plan to strip and paint gate with same sealer after trellace is done hopefully before Wysteria sprouts.

Last spring I cleaned and stained the new cedar deck with TWP 1500. The deck was unstained for a year before.
Some areas are showing white/gray patches, that look like weathered cedar. Most of the deck looks fine. Should I clean and brighten those areas or am I missing something?
Pictures attached

We are building an oak log home and trying to decide on a stain color. Do you have any photos of 1516 rustic or 1501 cedartone on oak logs? We have samples of both stains, which is really helpful, but would like to see the colors on a full-size home and not just a sample size log.

I have been recommended to use TWP 1500 on two new garage doors. The doors have exteriors of western red cedar The wood was very dry and the stain job looks good and the stain has taken well. Now I want to seal the doors against the elements with a polyurethane or other oil based sealer with high UV protection. What do you recommend?

We want to re-apply TWP 100. Live in northern NC. Our pine deck is almost 4 years old. The first coat was TWP 100 cedar tone stain on new pine deck at 18 months old. We used Gemini restore kit and applied wet on wet. It is now almost 4 years old, has some lighter spots and some light green mold in places. Do we use the Gemini Restore kit again? Will pressure washing be OK along with the kit or will it do to much damage? Also how long to dry before applying TWP and can we use just a clear so it will not darken or should we use cedar tone again to apply wet on wet method?

I have a 2 year old tiger wood deck. It has had 3 applications of Penofin Brazilian Rosewood Oil, transparent natural tone. It looks fantastic for awhile after the application, but soon loses its luster. I want to switch to a TWP product. I will prep with a stain stripper and brightener. Will you please recommend a TWP product and color. Thanks.

We have some new rough cedar underneath our deck and a couple of post caps we’d like to get stained this fall. We’re using TWP 100 series cedar tone stain. We live in MN. What is the minimum temperature for applying TWP 100?

Western N.C. at 3620 elevation. 15 year old deck so sanded everything with 40 grit and then with 100 grit to remove all old stain. Washed with a cleaner brightener and let dry. Applied Dark oak 2 coats wet on wet before the sun was on the deck. It appears to be drying with a slight “haze” dull gray but it has only been 4 hours. Is this normal? Will the haze go away once it is fully dry?

Hi all , my new 5/4 x6 pt decking has bin drying 4 months , just cleaned with Gemini deck restorer and after two days drying I notice little uneven fussy spots in the wood . I took my time with the power washer not to leave marks . Will this fussy marks come out when I stain ? I’m using 1500 honey tone stain? Thanks for your time, jeff

I stained treated pine deck boards that were replaced and the color is not the same. It as ones that were stained with 1520. The new stain appears to be more transparent and a different color than the previously stained boards although it is the same color stain. Can it be re-coated to get a deeper color and if so how long should I wait. this has only been three days.

Hi, I’m removing Behr Waterproofing Wood Finish Penetrating Oil Formula from a large deck (about 1450-1500 sq ft using the calculator) and refinishing with TWP 100. The deck is partially covered by a roof, so the Behr has faded and worn very unevenly; the deck is also long overdue for this. 1500 sq ft puts me right on the line between needing 2 or 3 jars of the RAD Stripper. Can you tell me if the Behr might require more or less stripper? I’m leaning toward ordering 3 jars of the RAD Stripper and 2 jars of the RAD brightener. Thank you!

I stained my deck with TWP 1500 3 days ago, using the wet on wet application approach. (Looks great! Love the color!) Weather has been warm and dry since which has allowed the deck to dry well. Some boards still seem “thirsty” – like they didn’t receive as heavy of a coat of stain and are just slightly lighter color. Is it possible to add another light coat of stain to those areas this long after the original application or do you have any other recommendations? Thanks for your help!

Hello, Please advise! I have a 4 year old pine deck, already showing signs of cracking, nail pops, warping. Never been sealed or stained. Just recently, had it professionally power washed, and I’m pretty sure bleach was the main chemical. It looks fine except for an extreeme case of the fuzzies.

Now, I want to proceed with protecting it. I am at the beach on the Outer Banks of NC.

Mostly full sun except for under stair switch backs which tend to collect green in the shaded parts. I prefer to go with the 100 series I think, honey. There is a section of walkway, however, that is basically on the ground., and this concerns me as for dampness, etc, as it really tends to mold up and get slick.

So — what is my next step? Do I sand, then brighten, then stain? And for the damp walkway, what are my options? Any way to add grit or non-skid? Also, 2 coats — no way with all the pickets and switch backs can I cover the whole thing and do the second coat within 30 minutes! Ha ha! So — can I work on it over the course of say 4 days? Half of it one day, half the next, second coat the same… (Doing it myself, brushing).

I want to do this right, so any advise would be most appreciated! Thank you

I will be using the TWP 100 on a two year old deck that has never been treated, stained.
1. Should I apply only one coat on the verticals?
2. Can I spray verticals or do you recommend a stain pad?
3. Do I need wet on wet second application for the horizontal if this is the first time it has been stained ( even though it has sat for 2 years? )
4. Can I spray the horizontal or do you recommend pad application, which is best?
5. We have peach Victorian with white and dark brown trim. Deck is added to back of house with Victorian features. Would you have a color recommendation. We thought the grey or dark brown.

We redid the flooring of our decks 2 years ago, stained with TWP Cedartone 101, it’s held up well in the wet shady PNW weather. Some wearing away in more exposed areas where the rain hits it all winter. Just had to replace all the posts and handrails last month, and had to cut out and replace some of the flooring to access. Would like to stain everything again to even it all out. Can I just clean and stain the flooring part to match? What do I do on the older exposed stained areas? Would like to avoid stripping. Perhaps sanding the overlapping areas of new and old wood? For cleaning, is OxyClean ok, or Dawn better?

Fall of 2014 we restored our cedar deck as per your recommendations. (Restore a deck stripper, brightener and applied TWP 1500 stain.) Due to weather restraints, we didn’t apply a second coat to floor decking. You advised at the time to lightly prep with soapy water in spring and apply light coat of stain. We failed to apply stain in the spring. Here we are one year later. What are your recommendations for prep to apply the second coat for flooring only? FYI – the deck looks good and still “beads-up” when wet.
Thanks.

I have a three tiered deck. The main tier needed to be removed and rebuilt (redwood) due to severe storm damage and was done so last week. It sounds like we should wait until later next summer to clean and prep that portion for TWP 1500 (8-12-months). If we sand, clean and prep the other two levels (redwood) we should be able to stain those earlier next year but still might have some color disparity because of the age of the wood on the tiers….correct?

hi there,

I just applied on my deck TWP 1500 a few days ago.Due to inadequate stain, some area only received one coat. Is it OK to apply another coat one week later on these areas? I know TWP suggests wet on wet.

I am building a pergola with Western Red Cedar. The large timbers came rough sawn but all of the dimensional lumber came planed on one side only. I was under the understanding the order was supposed to be ALL rough sawn.

If I get stuck with this, what can I do to make it look good? Can I put a darker stain on the dimensional lumber to match a lighter stain on the timbers? For example, in the 1500 series – Pecan 1520 on the rough sawn and Dark Oak 1503 on the smooth lumber?

Can I rough up the smooth side with 60 grit sandpaper to make it darker.

I am going to the lumber yard tomorrow and any talking points you can provide would be much appreciated. I am in New Mexico, so if you’re in the East, you’re 2 hours ahead.

Thanks!

I stained my new pressure treated pine deck earlier this year with 100 series Dark Oak. Overall, I am happy with it and it has good color retention, except for the horizontal deck boards. We had a hot summer and it got a fair amount of full sun exposure and now the many of the boards are pretty faded. Additionally, on some boards that are slightly concave where water collects mildew is starting growing (despite being in full sun…)

So, I want to try it with TWP 1500 for the higher solids and mildew resistance.

a) Does the 1500 series film form?

b) If i use the the standard gemini cleaner and brightener will I have any issues applying 1500 over 100?

c) by using the cleaner, will I still retain some of the 100 series stain?

d) to best match 100 dark oak, should I go with 1500 dark oak or black walnut?

e) with the 1500, should expect better mildew and sun irradiation protection?

thanks!

I have a 4 year old pressure treated deck that was stained with TWP 1500 series three years ago. I just cleaned it, power washed it and restained with TWP 1500 series a month ago. I allowed the deck to dry for 2 weeks after power washing and before restaining. The deck dryed for 24 hrs and then it rained heavily for several days. Within two weeks of staining, I noticed black dirt/mold spots all over the horizontal boards. Do you know what is causing this? Also, I am noticing white powdery stains around several knots in the horizontal boards. Thanks for your help!

I rebuilt my deck a year ago and used the 1500 stain over cedar without removing the glaze first. The stain dried but did not penetrate well. After a year it is worn off in quite a few places and I am thinking of going over the deck with an orbital sander (80 grit) to remove the glaze and remaining stain. It appears as if the dirt and stain have not penetrated so a light sanding might be enough to prep it for a coat that will penetrate. What do you think of this approach?

Can I use TWP 1502-Redwood over wood previously treated in 2006 with Pittsburgh Paints “Sun Proof” Fence & Siding Stain Alkyd/Oil Semi-Transparent stain (Redwood tint)? I sanded the damaged sun exposed surfaces (not to bare wood) and washed the smooth undamaged surfaces. I would like to apply the TWP 1502 over the existing Pittsburgh stain and do not want to remove the old finish to bare wood. In the past I was able to reapply the Pittsburgh stain over the existing old coat without any problem but Pittsburgh no longer makes this product. I’m painting a house that has smooth finished redwood siding.