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Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
We are here to help you with your TWP exterior deck or wood restoration project for 2024!
TWP is an advanced wood preservative/protectant registered by the EPA. Performance and longevity can vary though depending on the wood type, how the wood is prepped, the age of wood, and how the TWP is applied. We want everyone who has decided to use TWP 100, 1500, or 200 Series to have the best possible results.
TWP Stain Tips and Help
When asking questions please give us some information about your wood restoration project:
- What structure is your wood? Examples would be: Deck, Wood Siding, Fence, etc
- What species is the wood? Examples: Treated Pine, Cedar, Redwood, Ipe, etc
- Is the wood new or older than 1 year?
- Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Please specify brand name and type of stain used: Examples: Solid stain, Semi-Transparent Stain, etc.
- Any additional info that would be useful
Once you supply us with the information, we will able to give you advice as to how to prep your wood and any needed instructions for the TWP application.
Please ask your questions in the comment area.
Thanks
White reside on top of the stain has nothing to do with the stain itself. Please post picture.
Here are some photos of the white residue:
Looks like something is bleeding from the wood. Maybe sap as that turns white as it dries. Try some mineral spirits to see if that helps.
Thanks — that what it seems like. I will give mineral spirits a try.
Hope that works!
Just strip all. What do you mean about “blue” parts? Do you have a solid color stain that is blue?
Thanks! Yes, while most of it had transparent or semi-transparent stain, some boards have a solid color stain that is blue. I enclosed two pics.
Deck stain strippers will not remove solid stains completely. You may need to do some sanding as well.
Need some advice. Just finished staining my treat wood deck with cedartone. I have a few fence panels that are cedar, the stain obviously has a much different look on the cedar than the treated. Can you recommend a color that would look more like the cedartone color on my cedar fence that I have done on the treat decking?
Not really possible to make PTP look like cedar wood. Best advice I can offer is to test a few samples to see if it will be close.
We are going to order TWP but we have some questions on prepping the deck for the stain. Obviously, we’ll use a deck stripper for the blue colored parts of the deck that are peeling. But in the other parts of the deck, should we use a deck stripper or simply the gemini restore kit? We stained it last year (it was either semi-transparent or transparent) for the first time in years but didn’t do a good job, so we think it has completely faded. What do you think? Also, we’d like to use a 4000 psi power wash (keeping it at a safe distance) when we clean the deck. Is that OK? I attached pictures of the deck.
If you want to use TWP then you need to remove all of the old stain first. Best to use the Restore A Deck stain stripper and possibly you will need to sand depending on the old stain you used. make sure to use the brightener after.
Thanks! Just for clarification — does all of the deck need the stain stripper? I know the blue parts need it but for most of the floorboards, is the deck stripper necessary? Or would the gemini restore kit work better for those parts?
I stained my deck with TWP 100 redwood about 2 years ago and its ready to be reapplied on handrailes. Should I use the same twp 100 or can I use the twp 1500? recommendations?
Use the same 100 series after prepping with the Gemini Restore Kit.
When it dries on top of the wood and films, then it was either over applied or improperly prepped. In your scenario it was over applied as your prep was good. When doing a maintenance coat many times you only need one coat, especially if under a covered porch: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/applying-a-maintenance-coat-of-twp/
At this point you might need to strip the floor with the Restore A Deck Stripper and then neutralize with the Restore a Deck A Brightener. I would not sand as that will reduce stain absorption as well.
When would you recommend the Storm Shield over TWP 1500? Pls advise. Thanks!
Never as Storm Shield is no longer available 🙂
Is there sealer in the stain? Do I need to do anything after to “seal” it?
No you do not need to do anything else with the TWP as it is a sealer and a stain.
I am a professional painter who recently stained a deck with cedar clear twp….the deck was wolmanized….and this was the first time….it’s been two months and some small areas are starting to show some white residue…I know some moisture is in there, but I’m wondering what the proper fix (if any), there would be…thank you.
What is the residue? Under the stain or on top. Post a picture if possible.
I am seeing the same white residue from a deck that was stained with TWP 1501 (Cedartone) about 8 months ago. I believe the decking is Douglas Fir. Most of the stain looks good, but a few areas have white residue on top of the stain. I can’t take a photo at the moment, but will try to post one later.
Wait a few months or until next Spring and lightly clean and recoat for best results.
I need help!!! I have a new deck that was built last summer 2013. I stained the deck in the fall with 2 coats of TWP 1500 stain. I did clean it before staining. Starting in June of this year 2014 I noticed black patches in different areas of the deck. I would only think that this is mold. I am writing to find out what to do? If I use a mold cleaner, what kind?
Try a product called “Wet and Forget” for this.
Use the 100 series but you should remove all of the Cabot first. Strip with the Rad and Brightener all when done.
Our deck has been around for 20 years – 800 sq ft. We are preparing to clean and stain it. I was going to get R-A-D stripper and brightener. Then your 1500 product. Deck has been previously stained with Cabot most recently. We do clean and re-stain the deck every 2-3 years and I’m looking for the best product at this point. Suggestions? Thank you!
Yes use the RAD Stripper and RAD Brightener for the prep. Stain with the 1500 Series.
The square will always be a different color as the wood did not weather there the same as the rest of the wood did. Not sure what the “black” spots are. Is it mold, water marks, dirt, or an old deck stain?
Ok thank you. I THINK it is mold or dirt. The deck has never been stained before only a water seal. The black spots have lightened quite a bit since the deck has dried. Will these spots show up more when stain is applied. Just wondering if another deck cleaner is necessary but we do not have any more brightener. Would have to order more. Can we reapply the cleaner and not brighten?
If you apply the cleaner you will need to brighten again. Not sure if the spots will show when stained or not. Test by applying water to see if that enhances the spots. If it does then the stain will as well.
Sorry but we do not have a list of matching caulk for the TWP colors.
Hi, we stained with TWP 1500 last year, and the deck looks great. I don’t have any reason to think we’d need to apply another coat or anything, but it’s pretty dirty (a lot of algae), and I need to clean it off.
I assume that I shouldn’t use the Gemini cleaner/brightener for this purpose. What would you recommend for generic yearly cleaning?
Try some soapy dish water or similar and a soft push broom to lightly agitate.
HELP! We live in North-Central Arkansas. We used the TWP 1503 (Dark Oak) on our new deck last summer (2013). The deck is treated pine and was allowed to dry about 6 months before staining. We read the 1500 product was great for mold & mildew resistance but now have Black Mold all over the surface of the “walk areas” of the deck. I think this would also be called the horizontal areas. What can we use to clean these areas without removing the “expensive” stain? And then what can we do to prevent this from happening again so quickly?
You cannot 100% stop mold from growing on top of a stain or any surface. The TWP contains an EPA registered preservative that helps prevent this from growing in the stain but cannot stop if from growing on top. Try a light cleaning with a mold cleaner to remove the mold but not the stain.
What cleaner or solution do you recommend?
A cleaner that contains sodium percarbonate as the active ingredient. Do not use bleach based cleaners.
With a little research I found that OxyClean is sodium percarbonate. We mixed per instructions and started on some step boards away from the main deck. Boy, am I glad we started there. The mixture took the stain out! Which is just what I didn’t want to happen. Do you have any other suggestions?
I know a lot of people are wanting to clean decks so they can stain. That’s what I am finding all over the internet. I don’t want to remove my stain. I love the color. I just want to clean the mold off. Please help. Thanks.
You may have mixed too strong of a mixture. Try at about 1/3 the suggested amount.
Looking for advice/direction on staining my cedar gazebo and railings. The material is about 8 years old and never stained. I pressure washed the gray out of the wood and now the wood is very fuzzy. Do I need to sand first before applying the stain? Also I want the “wet cedar” look when I am done. Located in North Dakota and should I use the 100 or1500 series? You can also see from the railing photo that some of the gray is still noticeable. Do I need to get all of that out? If so what is the best way?
Thanks for the help.
Typically the fuzziness from prepping does not show when stained but since the wood has been neglected for awhile it would be best to go over the wood with a palm sander ant 80 grit. If the gray does not show when wet with water then it will not show when stained. Use the TWP 115 Honeytone for this and a wet look.
Use the 100 Series.
Use the 100 Series after prepping with the Gemini Restore Kit.
You will need at least the cleaner but can also brighten.
Cedar Siding Shingles. The wood is old untreated and greying. It has not ever been treated.
The shingles are greying on two sides of the home but not on the other two. Is there a way I can restore them to a similar color? Should I stain the grey side and put clear on the not grey side? I would rather have the whole house greying or the whole house the cedar color. I prefer the cedar color. Thanks!
Prep all wood with the Gemini Restore Kit and pressure washing to restore the wood. Stain with the TWP 1500 Series.
Why is TWP 200 not preferred? Isn’t that specifically for shingles?
Per your instructions, last summer I stained a newish cedar deck (waited the appropriate time after installation) with the one coat that was recommended. At that time I used the wood cleaner and brightener as recommended. For this year, do I put one or two coats on? And do I need to clean and brighten again? What is the prep protocol? Thanks!
Yes on cleaning lightly for prep and just one coat on top of the coat from last year.
Both the cleaner and brightener from the kit? Or can I just clean with water?
Go ahead and prep first with the Gemini Kit and yes you can use the 100 Series.
Sanding again after staining is not a good idea. You can apply another light coat after a light cleaning in a year. Do not apply on now.
Most likely it is fine. I would leave it alone. If there is an issue than easier to redo with a light coat next Spring.
For light coat next spring, do we use Gemini Restore kit first, then stain for light coat?
Yes that would be correct.
Need help with product choice. I do not know the age of the deck but I’m guessing in the range of 5-7 years. It does not have a stain on it but we did put thompsons water seal on it a little less than 2 years ago when we moved in. We live in Northern Virginia in an heavily wooded area and have had a lot of weather/moisture in the last year. We are going to power wash this week. Do we have to use a “stripper” on a previously applied water seal? I do not feel it is even there any more. Wood is very dirty and water easily penetrates. Looking for a lighter natural color, but would like to add a bit of “color” to the deck. On the calculator, is railing length referring to the handrail or individual rungs?
If the water seal is not effective anymore than use a cleaner. If it is than use the stripper. Brighten when done. You proabbly are okay with the Gemini Restore Kit for this. Honeytone 151 is the lightest tint. Total length of handrail.
Ok, and which series would I use?
1500 Series for Northern VA.
I have a 16′ x 24′ deck made of 2×6 treated pine. The deck is 8 years old. It has been stained with Cabot Australian Deck Stain Dark Walnut for the last 4 years. I used JoMax (from Lowes) stain stripper and pressure washer. Most of the old stain came off, however, there were several spots that did not. After the deck dried for about 4 days, I applied the TWP stain (Dark Oak) with a roller and brush. I now have several shinny spots where the old stain could not be removed which are very sticky and soft. I can remove them with my fingernail. That was the first coat. I do not want to put a second coat on under this condition. How should I proceed? Should I pressure wash them to remove the excess or what? Thanks.
You cannot fix shiny spots now by pressure washing. Either leave alone until it fully dries or strip all off including the old cabot that you did not remove and start over. If it were me, I would leave as is.
Yes wipe off excess now. In hindsight pleas read this about new wood: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
By the time I got the instruction to wipe off the excess, there was very little to wipe (~36 hours after staining). It looks like it’s okay — table looks great.
That’s a great article, but I wonder about some of the assumptions:
The lumber I got from a trusted yard is kiln dried.
Also, I sanded from 40 through 120 prior to staining.
Think it would be okay to hit it with 220 or 320 now (after staining) to get a smoother finish (finish is rougher now after staining than before staining)?
What I’m not understanding is whether applying another coat on dry, either shortly after the initial coat, or a year after, without doing any stripping is an advisable thing to do.
Thank you!
The TWP 100 and the 1500 cannot be used for bamboo.
Try a water based graffiti remover from you local store but do a test spot first.
Yes on waiting and prepping: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Use the 100 Series and only 1 coat the first time
I have an old deck (don’t know how old, I’m guessing at least 10) that has wear and even a few rotted ends that I plan on replacing. Should I use 100 or 1500 (on the existing deck)? I live in SW Virginia. Thanks.
Use the 1500 for this older deck.
Pressure treated lumber decking installed 1 year ago. Readily absorbs water on contact. Does this count as “new wood” as this website states that new wood does not get 2 coats of twp 100?
Since it is new wood you should apply two very light coats of the TWP. Apply wet on wet application and wipe off excess stain that does not absorb after 45 minutes. Prep first with Gemini Restore Kit.
I applied TWP 1500 wet on wet, and used a large pad on a pole to back brush the excess, but we still have a shiny/tacky surface 3 days later on 60% of the deck. Temperatures are in the 80’s, but what I can do now…wait? I rather not sand and start over. Thanks!
Try to wipe down the shiny spots with rags and mineral spirits to remove the over applied areas. It will dry quicker this way. Saturate rags with water when done to avoid accidental spontaneous combustion.
Last year I cleaned a new deck and used TWP100 to stain. Unfortunately I used a pressure washer and in some areas I guess I was too close and it left lines in the wood, but not a lot just in a few small places but enough to bug me. I am going to clean the deck and apply another coat of stain soon but wanted to try and address the lines from the pressure washer. Any advice? Should I just sand the select spots or boards with lines or will that cause those boards to stand out when I restain?
Chris, there is not an effective way to spot sand this. It will just show where you sanded when you stain. i would leave it alone or sand the entire floor evenly.
I just applied TWP 100 to my deck and it looks great. However, I got some spots on my vinyl siding that I would like to remove. Can you recommend a product to remove the stain?
Try a water based graffiti remove from your local paint store. Do a test spot first to make sure there is not a reaction with the vinyl.
It will not blend well or give a darker gray color. Sorry about that. The only color that may work is the Dark Oak but really have no idea as to the final color.
Have wood cedar siding, was stained with Behr Rawhide series, turned black due to no mildew blocker. Stripping siding now, what series of TWP is best to restain with 100 or 1500
Either is fine as long as all of the Behr is removed.
I purchased 7 gallons of Cape Cod stain to stain our OLD pier and our new deck. The pier took a lot of course but the color is SO white, not at all like it showed on the website. I am now afraid to stain the deck with it, I don’t want it to be so bright when the sun hits it!!!!! How can I darken the 5 gallons I have left????
Lynette, I am sorry but it is not possible to darken the color of the Cape Cod stain.
Not even with a darker TWP stain? It is not the color as the website shows and I wasn’t aware I could get a sample when I ordered it. My fault I know, but what do I do now? I have a huge expensive deck and spent a lot of money for the stain!! Wouldn’t a gallon of dark stain from TWP make it darker?
I applied 1530 stain to my deck two years ago. It is now starting to gray and has some mildew. Do I just need to power wash it and then can I apply the 1530 stain again?
Use the Gemini Restore Kit with a light pressure washing for prep.
Cedar deck
8 years old
most recently stained with Cabot, even after sanding/cleaning it still peeled 75% after 1 yr.
In process of sanding all deck, rails, stairs to bare wood for new stain.
What additional prep should I do before staining?
Looking to use TWP 100, probably Dark Oak
In Eugene, Oregon, deck on south side of house, full sun most of day in summer, obviously a lot of rain in winter.
After the sanding do a light pressure washing with the Gemini Restore Kit for the prep.
Thanks!
We stained our deck yesterday. This morning I noticed several places that are shiny and sticky. Do I continue to let it dry? It’s on an old deck that was cleaned and sanded.
Yes just let it dry out. You can also try to wipe off any excess stain with a rag.
How can I order test samples?
On this link: http://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
You can get the 200 Series on this link: http://www.twpstain.com/wood-and-deck-stains/twp-wood-stains/twp-200-series
Is this the only size available? I was able to get it in 1 gal. amounts before. I only need 3 gallons. I bought 5 gal in the past only to see it evaporate over a couple of years because I didn’t need to use it.
We sell in singles gallon and 5 gallon pails.
Only 5 gallons for the 200 Series.
I have finished staining half of my cedar deck with twp 1500 cedar tone stain. I applied it wet on wet. Unfortunately when we removed the old stain and after brightening our deck it showed signs of a fur like appearance. My husband sanded it lightly but I still see this fur in some areas after staining the first half. Can we re sand and stain just those areas or do we have to sand and re apply the stain to the whole half of the deck.
Thank you for your help
Pam, probably need to sand and reapply to the entire area.
About 4, maybe 5 gallons for two coats. 3 gallons for 1 coat.
Closest would be the 115 Honeytone. Prep first with the Gemini Restore Kit and only one coat of stain for the first application.
100 Series in the Rustic color.
14 month old treated pine deck in houston, tx
400 square feet that will be treated with restore a deck prior to stain.
Which stain and how many gallons do you recommend 100 or 1500?
would this be still considered a “new” deck needed a single coat or two coats?
Thanks
Since it is 14 months old you should apply 2 light coats wet on wet of the 100 Series. About 4 gallons.