Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
Tips on Applying TWP 100 Pro Series in 2024
TWP 100 Series Stain
TWP 100 Stain Series Wood and Deck Protectant has a coverage rate of 150-300 sq. ft. per gallon, per coat. Best to measure the wood’s square footage to determine how many gallons you’ll need for your project. On wood decks, be sure to include all the railings and steps.
Before applying TWP 100 Series Deck Stain be sure the wood surface has been cleaned properly using a wood cleaner. Use a broom or leaf blower to remove any debris that may have fallen onto the wood since cleaning it.
Applying TWP 100 Series Wood Stain
The wood must be dry for a minimum of 48 hours prior to staining and the air temperature should be above 50 degrees. Check your local forecast to make certain there will be several dry days before and after the day you want to stain.
On the day of staining be sure you have all the equipment on site that you will need. Wear protective gloves and safety glasses at all times. Mix the TWP Wood Stain thoroughly using a paint stick before and several times during use. Using plastic or tarps to cover any landscaping, siding, windows, or concrete that you don’t want any stain on.
Start with the harder to reach areas first. On wood siding, gazebos, or playsets start up high and work your way down. On a deck, start with the spindles and railings first and stain the deck floor last.
Use a brush, stain pad applicator, or pump sprayer to apply TWP 100 Deck Stain. The first coat of stain is a saturation coat. If it soaks in quickly, and the wood seems thirsty, an additional coat may be necessary. If so, apply the second coat within 30 minutes of the first coat, essentially applying them “wet on wet.” The more TWP 100 Series Stain that you can get to soak in, the better protection it will provide.
Be cautious of over-applying TWP 100 Series Wood Stain or performance may be jeopardized. If you notice excessive stain puddles or drips that aren’t being absorbed, use a stain rag or brush to remove them. Stopping in the middle of a piece of wood or board can result in unsightly lap marks. To eliminate the chance of lap marks finish staining each board from end to end once you start.
TWP 100 Series Wood Protectant has outstanding penetration properties and will dive deep into the wood. It is not prone to flaking or peeling like other stains. TWP 100 Series will simply fade after several years and can then be cleaned and recoated as needed.
Is there a really efficient/ good way, to apply protective sheeting around windows, including the brickmould? What type of TWP is the best for older cedar siding which has always been done in TWP? Should I just continue with the same? I have 15 gallons which will probably do it all.
Thanks, Floyd
Keep with the same as before. Not sure what you are asking with the sheeting?
We have cleaned/brightened our new cedar deck and plan to stain in 48 hrs when it’s dry. It could rain here 24-48 hrs after we stain. Will the stain be ok? Thanks–
It should be fine as long as it is 24 hours or more. Did you see our article on new wood? https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
What’s the best way to keep the stain pad applicator from dripping all over the deck after you dip it in the stain and then try to get it delivered to the deck.
It is okay to drip as long as you coat those boards and even it out withing a few minutes.
For a cedar fence application, would a roller work for application? The fence is newer and hasn’t yet been stained (it’s been approx 6 months old). Should I do 2 coats, wet on wet application as described? I have also read that a coat now and a 2nd next season would be good. Can you advise?
Rollers are not the best way to apply. Flat exterior stain pads are better. You can also lightly spray on the first coat and then apply your second coat wet on wet, about 20-40 minutes later with a stain pad or brush.
Doing the two coat now since it is rough sawn fence wood, is the correct way.
I installed my deck in Jan 2017. Should I do one coat or two wet coats?
Thanks
1 coat. See this about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I purchased the applicator pads. What is the best way to get TWP 1500 on the pad? Should I pour the stain into a roller pad and dip in the applicator pad? Or is it best to use a spray and then back roll with the pad?
Dip into a tray is best.
I have seen a video with a broom like brush to put on stain but I can’t find it anywhere. Do I need to use a natural bristle brush for TWP stain? Where can I find that broom like brush it looks perfect for the floor of the deck
Not sure on the broom. We do offer stain mop pads:
https://www.twpstain.com/speed-mop-pad
You can use a natural or synthetic brush.
We pressure washed our deck and plan on sanding, do we still need the brightener? Also with the TWP 100 do we need a clear sealant afterwards?
Thank you
Using a wood brightener will help to open the grain of the wood. No need nor can you apply a sealer on top of the TWP.
We are preparing to apply TWP wood preservative this morning. The deck has evidence of overnight dew. Can we towel off the surface and proceed applying the TWP? Would there be any resulting harm if we do???
The deck has to be fully dry and not damp or wet to stain. If it is still wet when applied, it will not soak in and will dry/cure incorrectly.
Can you clean and redcoat 100 series with a 1500 series stain? Or, does it have to be removed?
Yes but use the Gemini Restore Kit and pressure washing for the prep.
I have started applying TWP 120 Pecan to portions of my deck. The water beads nicely on the wood except for the knots. The knots absorb the water. Is this normal? If so, is there any danger of the wood being damaged by the water? If it is not normal, how should I fix it?
Knots are much denser so they do seal and stain slightly different. It is fine as the TWP is designed to breathe and shed water, not bead water.
My twp wood preservative is jelly consistency what can I do?
That means it has gone bad. The shelf life of an opened container is 12 months. It cannot be fixed.
can you apply a third coat 24 hours after the initial coat of TWP
More is not better in most scenarios. it may not dry correctly or absorb into the wood.
I have finished cleaning my deck with your cleaning and brightening kit. It has been stained with TWP twice before. Some of the areas are down to bare wood and others are not. How will I get two coats on the bare areas without overcoating the places where the old stain still looks intact?
Lightly apply the two coats wet on wet. Any areas that do not dry in 60 minutes can be wiped off with rags. Saturate any oil rags with water and lay flat to dry outside when done.
My deck is cedar and 28 years old, in good condition. We have used TWP product previously; however, it has not been sealed/stained in many years. We have power washed it down to bare wood and need advise on which product to use. Is there a sealer we should use before staining?
TWP is a stain and sealer. Use the TWP 100 Series if allowed in your state. If not, use the 1500 Series.
We’re getting ready to stain and seal with TWP100, a cedar fence that we put up last summer. Have washed with water and dish soap and rinsed with water on one side. Waiting 48 hours to dry. Is it ok to stain the washed side and then wash,dry and stain the other side of the fence at a later date. How long would we have to wait after applying stain to start the process on other side of fence? And what is the best way to clean out the sprayer after using the stain in it?
Hello, It is best to wash and stain all at the same time. Also you should prep with our Gemini Restore Kit. https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
As for cleaning out the sprayer, use mineral spirits.
I had “professionals” i use this word lightly, stain our deck and pergola last year with TWP. Within two months, the stain had faded and in some spots looked like it was never stained. Our pergola, they stained unevenly and then when we pointed it out, they tried to touch it up. Now it kind of looks like paint on the pergola. Do we need to strip the stain off, or just pressure wash and clean. Thank you for any help you can give us.
Best to remove and start over. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper kit.
I installed a pressure treated deck in August last year. Location: Wisconsin Would like to stain the deck cedartone 100 series. What should I do to prep the deck? Also, should I put two coats on right away with it being a new deck?
See this about new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Do two very light coats since it is about 10 months. Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit.
I had professionals stain my deck with the TWP 203 about two years ago, can I go ahead and do a maintenance stain by cleaning and brightening the deck then using TWP 101, or do I need to strip the 203 and then use the 101?
Pressure treated pine
3 year old deck
Atlanta, GA
If switching to the 100 Series, you will need to strip it off and then brighten the wood using the Restore A Deck Stripper Kit.
I have a large deck with several levels. I completely sanded it last spring and applied TWP 100 honeytone. It lightened considerably in the high sun exposure areas so applied cedar tone after using the Gemini cleaner and brightner this spring.
It looks great, with the exception of one level which didn’t take the stain well the first go round. I decided to start over on that level and sanded it down to bare wood with a square buff sander.
Question is… After sanding do I need to apply the brightner before reapplying the stain?
Yes that would be best. Also, sanding is not the best way to prep. It reduces the ability of the TWP from soaking into the wood. This can reduce longevity.
So sanding is not recommend after cleaning?
Not unless needed to remove splinters or fuzzies.
day temp is 65 , night temp is 40 , is it ok to stain if the low temp is 40 at night
Yes, that is fine.
My treated wood deck was built in December 2015. Going to put TWP 100 on it in the next few weeks. Is there a certain temperature that is too hot??? 90+ degrees OK?
From what I’ve read I won’t need to do a “wet on wet” application because my wood is less than 12 months old. Is that correct?
I’ve also seen contradicting things about using a roller or not. Is a pad better? Is a brush better than any other application??? I realize the brush will take a while to to a 12×20 ft deck and 12 ft bench but is it the best way?
New pressure t related deck 2years ago….TWP 100 used last year. But needs a light re oat this year….do I need to strip or just use wood brightner before applying new coat ofvTWP?
We just stained our deck with Prairie Gray #106. It came out nice … but my wife is now having second thoughts about the color. If I wanted to switch to Cape Cod Gray #105, is there any chance I could just recoat the decks with 1-2 layers of Cape Cod Gray or would it be advised to start all over by striping off the Prairie Gray first with stripper / brightener products? Thanks
I just applied your stain to a deck with a sprayer and roller for a neighbor while he was at work. After I was finished, I left. He got home and rejected my work stating that “It wasn’t wiped off properly” and he refused to pay me for my work. I admit that there were areas that had small pools of stain left. Other areas, esp. underneath, I had applied a thick layer in order to get a consistent coverage. Please help. Is he right? Did I mess the job up? Will the stain flake? Is there any way to fix this problem? – Thanks
We just applied TWP 100 in Pecan to our deck yesterday and ran into some hiccups along the way… After we stripped and brightened our deck there were still some rough, grey patches that I thought we should sand..my husband didn’t think we needed to, so we didn’t do any sanding. After waiting 2 days for the deck to dry, we applied the stain yesterday (Thursday), as there was a zero percent chance of rain until Saturday. Well, we had a severe thunderstorm early this morning with very heavy rains (grrr). However, the deck had 8 hours to dry prior to the rain and when we ran downstairs in a panic to look, it seemed to be repelling the water well. My issue is the finished deck (floor in particular) is pretty uneven with some white strips, etc. Which of the many hiccups would you say contributed to this the most and can we leave it like this until next year and then do a maintenance coat?
I’m using TWP 100 for the first time. Stripped, cleaned, and brightened my deck down to clean bare cedar. With no rain in the forecast, and after allowing the deck to dry for 3 days, I stained the deck over a 3 day period. A surprise thunderstorm happened while I was away, and the weather has been between 60 and 90 degrees (in Seattle no less!) over the period that I did the staining.
The entire deck is now sticky and rain spots are clearly visible except in small areas protected by roof overhang. I’m not sure if the stickiness is from the rain, applying when the temperatures were too high, or my applying the product wrong (though I followed the directions to the letter).
What do I do now, and what can I do to avoid this problem in the future? Thanks in advance for your help.
I have a 12 year old pressures deck with semi trans. stain applied over the years.
Which stripper & stain should I purchase, 1500 or 100 series. Need one or two coats? Live in Va. mountains.
Jim
We have a five-year-old deck that we originally treated with a Behr product. We live in Texas where the deck gets a fair amount of direct sunlight. The Behr product began to crack in the past six months. We decided to switch to TWP 100 after reading reviews online – great reviews!. We’ve sanded the deck with 60-grit sandpaper. Is there anything else we should do before applying the TWP 100 product?
-Mary
I have a pressured treated pergola and bi-level deck that was built one year ago and never stained. I may need to have a lapse between the time of cleaning/brightening and staining due to weather, travel etc. How long do I have after the cleaning/brightening process to stain before I would need to reclean?
I have a log home under construction. It is yellow pine and the logs have weathered several years with no stain. Have now bleached, pressure washed, applied penetreat wood preservative while wet, and brushed the logs with an oborn buffing brush to remove the fuzzed wood from the pressure washing. Due to high humidity in Tennessee there are now small fuzzy mold spots all over the logs. Is it ok to sweep the mold off or will I have to bleach again?
My cedar deck was built a little over 3 months ago and I just cleaned and brightened the deck 5 days ago but really soaked the deck with water(garden hose) removing the UV damaged fibers plus it has rained off and on up until 4 days ago. I would like to stain it tomorrow(7 days post cleaning, 2 days no rain) but i see in the forecast possible rain 48 hrs after I stain. Question 1) Do I need to let the deck dry longer considering the recent cleaning/rain? 2) If answer to question 1 is “yes” how long does it take for the UV rays to damage my new cedar and I will need to clean off the damaged wood again? BTW, I live in the Mpls, MN area so we are quickly running out of summer. Thank you!
I have have roughly 2000 sq ft of vertical rough sawn board and batten western red cedar to treat. Most of the siding has been installed over thirty years ago. Some is newer because of a recent addition to the house. It has been treated previously with oil and water based clear finishes. I will remove them with strip and bright first. How much TWP should I plan on buying to complete this job? I am thinking of using an HVLP sprayer combined with back brushing. Is this possible or do you recommend brushing only?
We recently treated our deck with TWP100 clear. The wood had gone untreated for about a year. We cleaned and powerwashed prior to application. Some areas the powerwashed roughed up the wood. There are areas that are white. Is his from pooling or from applying to wood that was rougher? We have 1 section left and it is the roughest.. Would like to avoid problems there. Any advice?
I have a cedar deck. Cleaned n put coat of twp on last week after it was all dry. The flats that are sun exposed are faded a bit already away from my color intended…As if the wood absorbed the pigments after a few days. Is it OK to just put on another quick coat? Thanks.
I am putting up a Eastern Red Cedar fence this week- i love the natural reddish/blondish colors of the wood. i would like that color to be the primary , but understand that it will eventually start graying out. What would you suggest on the oil based side Cedartone or Redwood?
thanks
I recently purchase TWP 101 Cedar Tone to use on my new 6x6x8 cedar rough sawn front porch columns. I have seen a lot of comments about letting new wood age. I am hesitant to do this as I do not want the cedar to age and turn grey. The posts will get limited exposure to the weather elements as they will be mostly under a cover porch. Also, I don’t have 6 months to let the wood age as we will be in deep snow by then. Is it ok to apply the stain right away? Should I do more then 1 application?
My house was stained with TWP 100 series a number of years ago and needs to be recoated. It doesn’t have mildew or graying. Can I just do a regular cleaning before restaining or do I have to do a stripping process.
I plan to stain a play set with TWP 100. I have taken the play set apart into individual pieces, stripped the old stain, and brightened the wood. I am trying to determine the best way to stain all sides of the individual pieces “wet on wet” and then set them aside to dry. What I have in mind is to use saw horses to support the pieces while staining, rotating the pieces to get all sides stained. Then move the pieces from the saw horses to my garage floor, keeping the pieces off the floor using 2 x 4’s. I do not have a lot of experience staining wood. I have some concerns that I may effect the look of the stain while rotating wet pieces on the saw horses, by moving them using rubber gloves, and potentially by setting them on 2 x 4’s to dry. Will the 2 x 4’s used for drying “soak” up the stain from the pieces, leaving a noticeable mark? Will I leave finger/rubber glove prints on the wood from moving them? Will I create marks on the pieces by rotating the stained piece on the saw horses? Any comments or alternate suggestions are welcomed. Thanks,
Steve
How long after applying on a new cedar deck should the stain remain tacky for? We are in a very humid area.
Question about dry time. Ran into an issue where after applying TWP101 to my railings and floor boards, I ran out of stain towards the last 25 sq/ft or so and wasn’t able to complete the project. It rained a decent amount 2 days later so I had to wait 4 days with rain in between before being able to finish and then apply the second coat. Close to 24 hours later the stain is still sticky and oily to the touch…can I expect it to dry out over the next few days or is this a total misstep on my part and I need to start over? Thanks!
Rain caused me to stop staining my deck yesterday. Can I just continue when it dries? This is in Florida and we get sudden storms. About 10am started staining the deck. It’s a small deck about 800 square ft. 50′ x 16′. not counting the stairs. The first 3 of 5 gallons went on just the stairs and the wood just sucked it up. the last 2 gallons went on the deck fast and thin and we stopped at about 2pm. Temperature is about 80 a humid. About 5pm it rained heavy, think we got 3 or 4 inches.
Today at about 10am in the morning the deck was mostly dry, and some areas were a little oily to the touch.
Can we just continue like normal when the wood dries over the area that went on thin? The water is not beading on this area.
Here is a pic of my newly finished 6 year old PTP deck after stripping and brightening (sanded and water rinsed the railings), Allowed 4 days of drying then applying TWP 100 pecan. Thought some would like to see a possible result with this color choice on weathered pine.
Do you have a guess/estimate on how much time is should take to clean using Gemini and stain with TWP100 (one coat) a 1,500 square foot new cedar fence (that’s front and back square footage)? And how much stain? Thanks!
I was just looking at other comments and answers. Do I need to do anything to clean the 1 month old cedar deck railing before I apply the stain? It’s been rained on a number of times during that month, but still has the “new” look. If I do need to do something, what is that something?
Is the 100 series ok to use on an untreated cca deck? It seems like every time I’m reading about it, it’s being used on cedar or redwood.
Hi, I have several questions:
1) I have read conflicting things about how new wood can be before application. I have a western red cedar fence and gate that were installed in April. End of August they would be up four months. Is that long enough?
2) I am reading conflicting things about prepping new wood for application. The twp site says just make sure it’s been wet three times and then apply. Other sites say to use a cleaner. I’d prefer not to use a cleaner if I don’t have to. Which is right?
3) I am in Oregon and can order the twp100, which seems to be better if you can use it. But…if Oregon later bans that level of VOC, will it be a problem when I update my stain in later years with something like two1500 on top of it?
Thank you!
I am in the process of buying TWP 100 for my front porch cedar rough posts. I am wondering: if I buy the 5 gallon container, will the leftover stain still be good to use in a couple of years when I’m staining again?
I live in Santa Fe, generally dry, some precipitation during the winter. It’s early January, now. I just had a fence built (pine). Finished about three weeks ago. The weather here can be unpredictable, but the next time it looks like we won’t have any rain/snow for 48 hours, I plan on putting a coat of TWP 100 on. Temps are 50 during the day, 20s at night. Is this wise? Should I do a wet on wet coat?
Please read this about new wood: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Hi! I stripped and brightened my 44 year old cedar shake siding almost four years ago and then applied TWP stain in the cedar color. It looked(s) great and the TWP has held up well. It is now beginning to lightly fade and is in need of a maintenance coat this coming spring. The cedar color looked a little too “orangey” for my taste, although that has receded to some degree I would like to darken the overall color of the house. Can I just clean the cedar shake and apply a new coat of TWP in a darker color like pecan? Will that brown it up a little or do I need to totally strip this finish and start over?
You can prep with the Gemini Restore Kit and go darker in color. If you wanted to go lighter, you would have to strip.