Last Updated on January 30, 2023 by TWP Help
Tips on Applying TWP 100 Pro Series in 2024
TWP 100 Series Stain
TWP 100 Stain Series Wood and Deck Protectant has a coverage rate of 150-300 sq. ft. per gallon, per coat. Best to measure the wood’s square footage to determine how many gallons you’ll need for your project. On wood decks, be sure to include all the railings and steps.
Before applying TWP 100 Series Deck Stain be sure the wood surface has been cleaned properly using a wood cleaner. Use a broom or leaf blower to remove any debris that may have fallen onto the wood since cleaning it.
Applying TWP 100 Series Wood Stain
The wood must be dry for a minimum of 48 hours prior to staining and the air temperature should be above 50 degrees. Check your local forecast to make certain there will be several dry days before and after the day you want to stain.
On the day of staining be sure you have all the equipment on site that you will need. Wear protective gloves and safety glasses at all times. Mix the TWP Wood Stain thoroughly using a paint stick before and several times during use. Using plastic or tarps to cover any landscaping, siding, windows, or concrete that you don’t want any stain on.
Start with the harder to reach areas first. On wood siding, gazebos, or playsets start up high and work your way down. On a deck, start with the spindles and railings first and stain the deck floor last.
Use a brush, stain pad applicator, or pump sprayer to apply TWP 100 Deck Stain. The first coat of stain is a saturation coat. If it soaks in quickly, and the wood seems thirsty, an additional coat may be necessary. If so, apply the second coat within 30 minutes of the first coat, essentially applying them “wet on wet.” The more TWP 100 Series Stain that you can get to soak in, the better protection it will provide.
Be cautious of over-applying TWP 100 Series Wood Stain or performance may be jeopardized. If you notice excessive stain puddles or drips that aren’t being absorbed, use a stain rag or brush to remove them. Stopping in the middle of a piece of wood or board can result in unsightly lap marks. To eliminate the chance of lap marks finish staining each board from end to end once you start.
TWP 100 Series Wood Protectant has outstanding penetration properties and will dive deep into the wood. It is not prone to flaking or peeling like other stains. TWP 100 Series will simply fade after several years and can then be cleaned and recoated as needed.
Can I use my Graco Sprayer, if so what tip?
You can spray the TWP. Does not matter on the tip, but wider fan sprays are easier.
We just bought a house with a deck. It looks like it hasn’t been treated in years. There is algae and dark mildew. There is also some spots where the previous stain lasted in the shade. My question is how should I prep the deck for staining with TWP 100? Do I need to sand? Or will Gemini products take care of the old stain and the algae/mildew?
Try the Restore A Deck stain Stripper and Brightener kit with pressure washing. Sand if needed only if the old stain does not come off all the way.
New cedar deck installed and allowed to weather for 5 months in Nebraska sun. Was prepped with Sherwin Williams Revive, washed dried for 2.5 days, and then sanded before application of TWP 100 Dark Oak with a Sprayer and brush backed. Concern that the look is not as uniform as I anticipated. Looks like uneven absorption. Knots look abnormal. Rained today after drying 3 days and water protection is good but concerned about look. Do I wait until spring now and apply another coat?
It is normal that knots are light in color. The wood is a different density there so it can come out lighter. Adding another coat probably will not darken them. If you want to apply another coat to try, it would be best to do it in the Spring.
New cedar deck, I know ideally I should wait until Spring to apply stain, but what is downside to applying stain (TWP 1500 series) now? Put some of sample on scrap wood and it looks ok, I know it will absorb better and be darker if I wait but if I’m willing to re-apply next spring/summer would this still be ok? (I did look at the other brands that allow for staining sooner but they weren’t absorbed as well as the TWP and we like the Rustic color the best).
Thanks for the help.
If you apply it now without the 4-12 month wait, you will need to redo next Spring or Summer. Make sure to rep to remove the Mill Glaze with Gemini Restore Kit
So apply the Gemini Restore Kit now (to remove the mill glaze) but then just clean and put on another coat next spring/summer?
Thanks for the reply.
Prep with Gemini Kit now. Lightly apply one coat. Redo with same prep and one coat next Spring.
I have a cedar deck that was previously stained with Sikkens. We stripped and washed it using the Gemini restore kit. But I also sanded it all down with 80grit and it looks like a new deck. I didn’t realize that may have been a mistake? Do I need to wait for the deck to re-weather 4-12months before I stain it with twp?
Lightly clean for final prep and apply just one coat this year. You can lightly clean and apply a second coat in 6-12 months.
what if you do want a glossy finish can I go over the top with a top coat ?
No and having a gloss finish is a very bad idea for outside wood. It will peel, flake and trap mold.
I used the cedertone 101 TWP on my deck. Love the way it turned out and easy to apply. It went on easy and turned out great. My deck was pressure washed, treated with deck wash and then sanded. I love the way it turned out but i do see either i messed up on my application or i forgot to put down a wet on wet second coat. (see photo) it has been 2 days since i applied the stain, can I try and put on another coat in the lighter area? Should i just leave and try and wash and re-coat the whole deck next spring? want it looking great for graduation next may in MN so my spring time to apply is very tricky. Heck it took me over 4 weeks to find a dry couple of days in June this year. thanks for the help.
I was trying to block the sun and stain in the shade, allow the stain to dry for 30 mins then move my portable shad and stain the rest, that’s why i didn’t finish the board all the way thru. I had to do this 4 different times and yes i have brush marks but not as light as the photo below….
Leave it for now, Lightly wash to remove any dirt and apply one coat to all wood in the Fall. It will even out then.
When you say lightly wash do you mean just sweep with broom then hose of to remove dirt or use a deck wash let it dry and then restain all the wood? Thanks for your help. This is a great product and the issue i have was operator error.
Lightly wash with soapy water and rinse. Use dish soap.
I have a lap line! I ran out of stain, and had to get more.. Is there any way to help fix this?
Sorry, but you would have to remove all and start over to fix 🙁
Rollers do not apply that evenly. Use a stain pad or brush. We like the stain pads best. Just one good coat this year. Follow up with another light coat in 12-18 months. 90 may be too hot and could flash dry. Best to do in lower temps and not in direct sunlight if possible.
Thanks. I’m in GA so there’s no good way to avoid the high temps unless I do it early in the morning. Would that be OK? If I start at 7AM or so it won’t get 90 until noon or so. I would think I’d be done by then.
Yes that would be fine.
I stained my deck with TWP101 in the Fall of 2014 and need to apply another coat this spring. I bought your stain because it was promoted as easy to reapply over itself with only needing a deck wash or something before doing so. I do not have the exact instructions from than and was reading through the forums and found contradicting statements about reapply your product, one said use a deck wash, one a deck cleaner, and one said use restorer (maybe i misread some of the questions that were answered).
What is the process needed to apply another coat of TWP101 over the 2 year coat of TWP101? If need to use deck wash, deck cleaner, or restorer can you recommend a brand. Should it be a regular thickness coat or a multiple thin coats to refresh the color and water protection (i did a 2 coat wet on wet 2 years ago on flat surfaces and 1 coat on vertical surfaces if that mattes)?
Although most the deck is completely fine, my top hand rail has some small black growth-type areas (most likely from a grill right next to the railing), should i try to use the above suggested prep steps first or something else just on that area?
Thanks for the great product, still looks great 2 years later just need to be refreshed.
Use the Gemini Restore Kit for the prep when reapplying. It is a Step 1 Deck Cleaner and a Step 2 Deck Brightener. You can buy it from our site.
I hired someone to stain a deck with wood that’s at least 5 years old. The first coat looks good the day after. I did not have enough stain for them to apply an additional coat “wet-on-wet.”
I think it could benefit from another coat, but am I too late to do this?
It would be better to wait until Fall, lightly wash to rinse of dirt, and apply a light coat.
Built a new deck with PT Pine last spring and am planning on using TWP this summer. Do I need to use the Gemini restore-a-deck prior to stain application or would pressure washing suffice? There is no greying and the wood looks great. The deck will have approximately 14-15 months of weather when I stain and I live in MO so all weather is covered. Also, would you recommend one coat or two on the first round?
Just one coat this time and you can apply another light coat to the horizontals in about 9-12 months or as needed. Yes you need to prep with the Gemini Kit. You will need to remove mill glaze that is on new wood and the kit will help to do this.
I just prepped my deck for staining and have the stain ready to go. Will it hurt to wait until spring to stain? I am afraid of frosty nights, lower daytime temps, and we seem to be getting in to weight weather patterns.
You will have to re prep in the Spring if you wait. It will not harm the wood to got through one Winter.
Great! Thank you.
If they are that wet then yes. In general you want a moisture content of 12% or less if you want to check with a moisture meter.
Got a question about my project. Not last summer, but the summer before we built a new 16×12 pressure treated deck with wood spindles and two sections of 4ft tall by 15ft long pressure treated dog eared fence with about a 2 inch gap between boards, and boards only on one side.
We live in northern Michigan and the wood was starting to gray and get mildewy/moldy in spots. I cleaned the whole thing with a powerwasher and then sanded down the entire deck. The whole thing is smooth and looks almost like new.
I bought 4 gallons of TWP 100 Dark Oak.
First, am I alright applying this even though I didn’t use any chemical cleaners, as the powerwashing and sanding really seemed to do the trick?
Second, do I need to apply two coats to the fence and spindles or just one?
I am assuming I need to apply a wet on wet to the horizontal flooring, steps, and the flat top of the railing. Is that correct?
Lastly, how many years do you usually go before you reapply? Do you just reapply one coat everywhere or do two on the horizontals again?
And as far as prep, I notice you say to clean the wood then just do a maintenance coat. When you say clean it, is there a specific product and procedure for that, such as just a light scrubbing or using a powerwasher, etc.
Sorry if this has been answered elsewhere but there’s so much info on here I had a hard time locating all the answers.
Thanks for the help.
1. You should be fine with the prep
2. Two coats wet on wet to horizontals and one coat in verticals is good. 3. Reapply every 2-3 years to all wood is normal. Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit when you do this.
Thanks so much. One last question. I used some of those rough cut dog eared boards to enclose the back and front of my steps just recently. When I screwed them in I could see factory moisture come out around the screws. I assume that I should not stain these boards until late fall or early spring. Is that correct?
You need to use a deck cleaner for the prep, not a stripper or brightener.
Thanks
I just finished prepping my new PT deck with the gemini kit. It has been 4 days since I applied the brightener. I’ve been busy and haven’t applied the TWP 100 stain. It hasn’t rained and the temps here in Knoxville has been in the 80s-90s. Weather forecast is 20% rain over the next 2 days and 50% over the labor day weekend. Temp will be in the high 80s-low 90s. Any advice?
Make sure it is dry for 24-48 hours after a rain and that it will not rain on the deck within 12-24 hours after applying.
Deck is ready to be stained. I’m planning on using a Shurline or Padco pad to apply but was wondering what the standard practice is to get between the deck boards. Should I use a thin pad between the deck boards first and then hit the top?
You can use the Pado crack and groove tool.
I have a week old built Azek deck with cedar rails with aluminum balusters, cedar outer deck band and PT support posts. I purchased TWP 100 dark oak and have tested on a scrap piece of the cedar railing as a test. I read from a pro painter that he has had good results from lightly sanding the wood with 80 grit before the first application. I tried this on the scrap piece and it soaked up the stain instantly and has a really nice even finish. I put another couple of coats on to get the appearance I wanted and each time it soaked up the stain like a sponge and dried rather fast. The look is incredible, but I am concerned if the wood is protected as good this way. After the second coat I poured water on the test and the plank seemed to soak up the water really fast as well. I couldn’t hope for a better look, but I want to be sure that would is protected. It almost seems as if the rails could be treated now and I would have to wait on the PT posts to dry out.
You are over apply and not prepping/waiting for the new wood to season:
http://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
No you should not do this. You would need to strip it off and start over.
Shiny means it did not soak into the wood and was over applied. This means the TWP dried on top of the wood in some areas instead of in the wood grain. It may be prone to peeling now but that really depends on traffic and your weather.
Try to wipe off the over applied areas with a rag and mineral spirits.Saturate rags with water when done and lay flat to dry. Let the stain fully cure for a week. It should look more even then.
I looked at the job again today. If it is shiny is that a sign that it will peel, or is that normal?
Yes just leave it alone until next Spring and apply a light coat then. Hard to say which caused the unevenness but it sounds like the prep was the culprit.
Thank you!
welcome 🙂
I plan to apply TWP 100 series when temps are below 90F and the deck is in the shade. But after I finish, the deck will be in the sun and temps may reach high 90s. Is this ok?
Yes that should be fine.
Please read this and get a new container: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/shelf-life-of-twp/
We have left 2 new Western Cedar decks weather since installation last September. We have ordered TWP 100 stain. It has been raining practically non-stop here in the St. Louis area for several weeks. If we clean and brighten the deck how long before we can stain and expect a good absorption of the stain in high humidity? Two to three days? Longer? It is predicted to rain again after three non-rain, but humid days. Since this is the first stain to be applied we assume that we need to apply only one coat; correct? Thank you so much!
Just do one coat this year and another light maintenance coat next Spring to the floors. Stain after two days off dry weather and 1 day before any rain.
Can we store the leftover stain in a plastic coffee container? In the garage if the heat index goes above 110? Thank you!
No you cannot store in a garage where heat can get over 90. Also you should store in a metal one gallon container.
I have a 5 gallon metal container with half of the stain left in my garage for the last 2 weeks and it has been around 90 degrees or so. If I move it into the basement now, will it still be OK for using for a maintenance coat in the Spring?
Also, I simply closed the metal clips back down but not sure the seal is tight – should I get a new air tight container and pour the remaining stain into that? Or is the original metal container good enough?
Strip off with the RAD stain stripper and pressure washing. Apply the wood brightener. Let dry for 2+ days and reapply the TWP.
It is most likely from the rain if you can see rain spots. Most likely it needs to be stripped and started over. Feel free to post a picture here so we can see.
Will do. When I return home, I’ll take a picture.
Ok, here are the pictures. To be clear, the product went on fine and all exess was removed with a clean cloth to produce a flat (not shiny) finish. Now the entire deck, including areas that had been applied 4 days prior to the rainfall and were apparently dry, are spotted, sticky, and shiny.
I’m willing to do whatever it takes, but I don’t want to have to do it twice.
I have a 5-year old treated deck stained with another product originally. I have stripped, cleaned, brightened and sanded. I applied two coats of TWP 100 to half the deck today (I didn’t wait 15 mins as it was drying very quickly in our heat.) It looks really dull now that it has dried quite a bit. Do I need to apply some kind of sealant?
It is not supposed to be shiny but matte with no shine. TWP is a penetrating stain that soaks into the wood grain. You cannot add a sealer on top.
After 27 days of rain in May, I was finally able to finish my deck staining prep Sunday night, with the last step being to hose off the sanding with a garden hose. It was not supposed to rain until early morning Thursday. So Tuesday night I completed the staining, thinking I had until Thursday for it to dry. Much to my surprise, it started pouring rain early Wednesday morning. I ran out and covered as much of the deck as I could (about 675 sq ft) with tarps. Now it keeps raining on and off.
Today is Thursday and the tarps are still on the deck – I know it’s a little wet underneath, but I don’t know what to do because the forecast is a 40% chance of rain almost every day for the next 4 days.
Is it okay to take the tarps off? Will I need to stain again?
Finally, once I hose off the tarps, dry, fold and put away, is there any chance that residual stain could spontaneously combust?
Thanks for your help. You all are great with your thorough and detailed answers!!
Yes take the tarps off. Leave it alone and access the deck after it is dray from the rain. It it looks good then leave alone. If light in color you can try to apply a very light coat to the floor to even it out. If a mess ten you would need to strip and start over. You are most likely one of the first two. If plastic tarps it will not combust. Cloth tarps and you will need to take care.
Okay thanks. I will take the tarps off today. They’re plastic so I’ll let dry before I fold and store.
Thanks for your quick response.
How long does the TWP 100 need to “dry” after application before it is “rainproof”?
Depends on exposure to temps and sun. Normally 6-12 hours. Sometimes a little shorter or longer based on conditions.
Use the TWP 100 after prepping with the Restore A Deck Stripper and wood brightener. 2 coats applied wet on wet.
How long should a newly stained deck dry before walking (etc.) on it, or how long should I expect to not use the deck?
Wait 24-48 hours after staining.
Whats the best type of roller to use when applying TWP100?
Use a stain pad. Much better then a roller for even coverage. Shurline or Padco brand.
Can you apply TWP 100 with a wagner power sprayer? I have a bunch of balusters to stain.
Yes you can.
The help site states that 1 gallon of TWP 100 will cover 150-300 sq ft. The technical specs on the TWP 100 purchase page state that 1 gallon will cover 100-200 sq ft. Which is correct? This will make a difference on the amount I need to purchase. You should make the two pages agree. Thanks.
It is 150-200 sq. feet for the first coat and 200-300 for a second coat when applied wet on wet. Best to use our calculator on the site to help determine amount needed.
Last fall, we cleaned our one-year old (never before treated) deck with Restore A Deck and then applied one coat of the TWP 100 Series. It weathered the winter well, but we would like to put a second coat on to enhance the color. Can we do that? Do we need to use Restore A Deck again or can we just clean with water, let dry, and apply more TWP stain? Thanks for your help . . . I’m recommending you to all my friends!
When doing a maintenance cat you should prep lightly with the Restore Kit.
We applied the stain too heavy and after 24 hours it is still tacky what can we do?
Please read this for some tips. You may need to remove and start over: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-is-spotty-or-shiny/
In Summer 2012 I applied TWP 100 stain on our front and back porches. Parts are under cover, and other parts are a deck area and stairs exposed to the elements. The deck and stairs have weathered considerably, but most of the parts under a roof are still in good shape. However, in some places under the roof, the black spots have developed (in the wood, not dirt on top). Would cleaning with the Gemini kit take care of this? How should I apply stain to get even results between the weathered parts and the parts under cover?
Since it has weathered unevenly then you should use the Restore A Deck Stripper to remove it all and brighten with the Restore A Deck Brightener after. This will ensure an even appearance of the new stain application.
I’m planning to use TWP 100 on my (one-month-old) pine deck. Do you recommend to use a wood cleaner and wood brightener before? Also, in the future, when it’s time to retreat and reapply TWP 100, do I have to remove the old finish before? Thanks in advance.
Ron, new wood should season for 4-12 months and needs to be prepped. Please read this for more info: http://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
As for reapplication, you can clean and recoat as needed.
Thank you for your reply. One more question, I live in south Florida (lot of heat, rain and humidity). Do you think TWP 100 is the best choice for my pine deck? Or would TWP 1500 be more suitable for this weather? Thanks in advance.
You would want the 100 series for newer wood in FL. It will penetrate better.
Just completed a resurface on a ten year old 2 by 6 treated pine deck with TWP 100 (two coats, wet on wet.) Fully sanded the whole deck before application. How long before I can put an outdoor rug on part of it?
I would wait a few days until fully cured and not tacky.
The Behr needs to be remove completely. After the sanding it would help to use the Gemini Restore Kit for added prep to help the TWP penetrate deeper.
Two weeks is okay.
You cannot sweep off mold spores so yes you will need to clean the wood again to remove.
2 days after rain is enough for dry time.
We have been trying all summer to do a maintenance stain on a 14 year old redwood deck finished with TWP 101, but with an unusually wet summer are still waiting for a dry spell. At the same time we are rapidly approaching the time when freezing temperatures will occur here in Colorado at night. The instructions state the temperature needs to be a minimum of 50F during application, but how long after application does it need to stay above 50 and are freezing temperatures the first night after application a problem?
It can drop below 50 at night but it should not drop below freezing that night.
I have a 30 year old home with cedar siding. It has had the old stain removed and has been cleaned with a brightener. Much of the old caulk needs to be replaced/ or touched up. Should the caulking be done before applying the TWP? How forgiving is the coverage if there are still some blotchy areas in the wood?
Yes on caulking first. TWP enhances the natural wood grain so if you have “blotchy” areas they more then likely will still be blotchy when stained.
You can spray and back brush. For the two coats applied wet on wet you will need about 15-20 gallons. Maybe a little less since first coat is sprayed.
It is from applying to wood that is rougher as the TWP does not dry white. You can lightly sand the other section first to see if that helps.
Thank you. Any way to fix the white areas without completely stripping the whole deck?
Sorry but no.
Yes but make sure it is a very light coat!