We are here to help you with your TWP exterior deck or wood restoration project!
- TWP is an EPA-registered wood preservative offering exceptional protection for exterior wood surfaces, with performance varying by several factors.
- Proper preparation and application are key to maximizing durability and beauty when using TWP 100, 1500, or 200 Series.
- When seeking help, specify your wood structure type, such as a deck, wood siding, or fence.
- Provide the wood species, such as Treated Pine, Cedar, or Redwood, and whether it is new or older than one year.
- Disclose any previous stain brands and types used, such as solid or semi-transparent stains, for tailored application advice.
TWP is a cutting-edge wood preservative and protectant registered by the EPA, designed to provide exceptional protection for exterior wood surfaces. However, its performance and longevity can vary based on several factors, including the type and age of the wood, how well it is prepared, and the application technique used.
To ensure the best possible results with TWP 100, 1500, or 200 Series, proper preparation and application are key. Follow recommended guidelines to maximize the durability and beauty of your wood surface, no matter which TWP series you choose.
TWP Stain Tips and Help
When asking questions please give us some information about your wood restoration project:
- What structure is your wood? Examples would be: Deck, Wood Siding, Fence, etc
- What species is the wood? Examples: Treated Pine, Cedar, Redwood, Ipe, etc
- Is the wood new or older than 1 year?
- Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? Please specify brand name and type of stain used: Examples: Solid stain, Semi-Transparent Stain, etc.
- Any additional info that would be useful
Once you supply us with the information, we will able to give you advice as to how to prep your wood and any needed instructions for the TWP application.
Please ask your questions in the comment area.
Thanks
TWP Stain Help Staff
Does TWP 1500 have sun inhibitors like aluminum oxide or UV protection?
Yes, it does. It contains trans oxides that help prevent UV oxidation.
Will be stripping and restaining our log home/decks this month. Currently home has TWP100 Series Cedartone. Love that color/natural looking matte cover. Our current log person recommends Series 200 stain because it’s a heavier/longer lasting stain and he uses that more than the 100 Series on log homes. (We live among trees, so we’re more concerned about mildew than UV protection.)
I’m also wondering if the Series 200 will look thick/shiny on logs rather than have a more natural appearance as the 100 does.
Also not sure if 100 or 200 better for decks. We plan to use same stain for our home and decks.
One more thing, do either of these soak more into wood than the other for better protection or is penetration same for both?
Thank you for your input!
The 200 Series is a good choice for the logs. It is heavily pigmented with a non-drying paraffin oil that penetrates very well on older wood, and it is resistant to mold and mildew. It will not look thick or shiny — it is a penetrating finish, not a film former — but it does go on much darker than the 100 Series and can take up to 3 weeks to reach its final color. We do not recommend the 200 Series on the decks, though: on horizontal surfaces it can take 3-7 days to cure. Use the 100 Series on the decking and the 200 on the log home. Both penetrate well; the 200 will soak in a little better on wood that is very dried out. Note that the two cannot be applied over each other without stripping first, so keep the surfaces separate.
What is the approximate coverage per gallon for the 1500 series? Two year old pressure treated pine deck. Never had any stain or coating applied.
About 150-250 sq feet per gallon per coat.
What stain in the 100 series would I use to maintain yellow cedar look?
TWP 101 Cedartone is the closest in the 100 Series for keeping a yellow cedar look — it is the traditional cedar color and enhances the grain with caramel/golden tones. If the 101 pulls more orange than you want, TWP 120 Pecan is the same color with a little brown added to tone that down, though it will read slightly browner than the natural yellow. Keep in mind the 100 Series is 550 VOC and can only ship to the 36 states that allow it; if you are in a restricted state, TWP 1530 Natural or 1515 Honeytone in the 1500 Series are the closest equivalents.
Color will vary based on the wood type, the age of the wood, how it is prepped, and how it is applied. It is always best to test samples to see how it will look on your wood: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
I have a two-story deck that was stained by the previous homeowner using Cabot semi-transparent, the last time 3 1/2 years ago. It is badly weathered, north-facing, in northern Indiana with hot humid summers and very cold wet winters. I plan to use the TWP semi-solid to try to cover the badly weathered wood. I’m not sure how to approach preparation. It seems like I have extremes from badly weathered to heavier application. I’m also seeing green mildew. Which prep products should I use? Is sanding discouraged because I have some pretty rough spots- so if I need to sand, when do I do that and how? How do I deal with the underside? Appreciate the help.
Since you are coming off Cabot and switching to a semi-solid, you need to strip, not just clean — the Restore-A-Deck Stripper/Brightener Kit. The stripper will take the green mildew off along with the old coating, so no separate mildew step. Apply the brightener immediately after rinsing the stripper, same day, while the wood is still wet.
Sanding is not discouraged, it is just not usually necessary. If you have rough spots after stripping, sand them no finer than 60-80 grit, then brighten — the order is strip, sand, brighten, stain. Do not stain the undersides; only the exposed surfaces, the wood needs to breathe.
Great. On the underside, it has been stained previously. Since it has to breath, do I strip and brighten and stop there or just let it be as-is? Thanks again.
Leave the underside as-is. There is no need to strip or brighten it — only prep the surfaces you are actually going to stain. Focus the stripper and brightener on the top surfaces, railings, and any vertical faces you will be coating.
Couple of other questions. You recommend applying the brightener immediately after stripping while wood is still wet. However, if I need to sand, wouldn’t I need to let the wood dry to sand? Do I brighten the dry wood after sanding? Also, how should I remove the sanding dust? Thanks again.
Yes, if you sand, let it dry and then sand and brighten last. When you brighten last, you will remove any sanding dust when rinsing.
Sanded and stained cabin with TWP100 8 years ago. We Reapply every 2 to 3 years. Cabin is in Wyoming, 8000 feet, full sun and wind. Ready to re-stain west side. This is what it looks like, after cleaning. My husband thinks we need to re-sand. The stain on here is TWP 100. Can we reapply or do we need to resand?
No need to re-sand. Use the stripper and brightener kits for prep on all wood.
Installing a cypress T&G exterior soffit and interior ceiling in coastal GA. We’d like to maintain the warm color of the wood over time. What TWP product do you recommend and should we stain all sides prior to installation?
Skip the clear — it has no pigment, so it gives zero UV protection and the wood will still gray over time. For untreated pine where you want a little more depth, 1501 Cedartone or 1520 Pecan are the usual picks, and 1503 Dark Oak if you want a noticeably darker brown. Apply one coat on new smooth wood, by hand with a stain pad or brush — spraying a ceiling is extremely messy and uneven.
Thank you!
Pressure treated pine deck and stairs installed 16 years ago. Deck is in forested shade in temperate rain forest of North Carolina: 40-60″ rain/yr. I’ve used boracare as a preservative in recent past. 1. Can I use TWP 1500 clear in this situation. 2. The wood never truly dries out, will the stain go into the wood?
We would not use the 1500 Clear. It has no pigment, so it provides zero UV protection and the wood will still gray — go with a tinted color instead. As for absorption, the wood does need to be dry to take the stain: prep first, then wait 48 hours after the last rain with the surface fully dry before applying. If you can line up a stretch of dry weather, penetration will not be an issue.
Moisture % should be below 15% for the TWP to penetrate the wood.
I stained my pine siding with 101 TWP stain 6 years ago. It now needs maintenance. The stain penatrates differently on different places. Some places stain darker than others. Would Gemini Restore Kit sove my problem?
For uneven fading and bare spots, strip and brighten back to bare wood with the Restore-A-Deck Stripper and Brightener Kit, then recoat with TWP 100. Use the gel additive with the stripper on vertical siding so it stays on the surface long enough to work, and wait 48 hours after prep before staining.
I am looking at the TWP 100 semi transparent stain for my 1 year old cedar fence. Will a regular pump up sprayer work or do I need a different applicator?
A regular pump sprayer works fine for the TWP 100 Series on a fence. An airless sprayer is faster since you do not have to stop and pump, but either one is fine. Back-brush any drips or runs as you go, and if it is a board-on-board fence, spray and back-brush the inside of the boards as well. Stir the stain well before starting and every 15 minutes while you work so the pigment stays mixed.
I’m staining Doug fir glulam beams and new pine soffit with twp semi solid stain. Do I need to use the cleaner and conditioner prior to applying the stain?
Yes. New smooth wood like Doug fir glulam and pine soffit needs to weather 4–12 months first, then be prepped with the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit (Step 1 Cleaner, Step 2 Brightener) before the semi-solid goes on. There is no separate conditioner — the cleaner and brightener are what remove the mill glaze and open the pores so the stain can penetrate. Apply one coat only on new wood and back wipe any excess that has not soaked in after 30 minutes.
https://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I just installed a new cedar shake roof. Can I stain it right away or do I have to wait 4-12 months. Also what twp product would you recommend? I wanted a dark brown stain if possible. Thank you in advance for any help that you can provide.
If the shakes are rough-sawn, they can be stained right away — rough wood has no mill glaze and absorbs well. If they are smooth or sanded, they need to weather 4–12 months first. For a cedar shake roof use the TWP 200 Series; it was designed for shakes and shingles, is heavily pigmented with non-drying paraffin oils, and is compliant in all 50 states. It goes on dark and takes 3–7 days to dry with up to 3 weeks to reach final color, so it suits a dark brown look well.
My deck is 10 months old and is pine should I stain in the fall or wait until spring? We usually have asian beetles in September and October so I was worried about them getting in the stain as it cured.
At 10 months the pine has weathered enough, so you can stain this fall — just apply between 50–90°F and make sure the temp does not drop below 40°F the first night. Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit first, then apply one coat only, back wiping any excess that has not penetrated after 30 minutes. Insects landing on the stain while it dries will not hurt the finish; if the beetles are a real nuisance you can add Bug-Juice insecticide additive to the stain: https://www.twpstain.com/bug-juice-insecticide. Waiting until spring is also fine, but staining now gets you UV and moisture protection through the winter.
https://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I used TWP100 on my deck about 5 years ago and at that time I used the RAD stripper and brightener. I ordered my new batch of stain today with the cleaner and brightener. I think I have some of the stripper and brightener left from the previous application. Can I go ahead and use that to get a jump on the cleaning process? I don’t feel like it is really necessary to use the stripper this time but I don’t really know the difference between the RAD stripper and the RAD cleaner.
The cleaner is a deep clean — it removes dirt, mildew, and general graying, and it is what you want when recoating with the same TWP series. The stripper removes the existing coating and takes the wood back to bare, which you only need if the old TWP 100 is still hanging on in spots or has built up unevenly. After 5 years, if most of the finish is gone and you are going back with TWP 100, the cleaner and brightener you just ordered is the right call. Do not prep too far in advance though — wait 48 hours after prep before staining and get the stain on within 2 weeks of prepping.
I have a new porch build and while I let the pressure treated wood dry/weather, I am looking at stains. The poles are pressure treated southern pine and the rest of the frame is just southern pine boards. I am not wanting a orange finish and also nervous to go dark because of the dirty/splotchy looking finish on pine.
My question is, can you mix something with a grey tone to wash out the yellow but then add a little warmth with a pecan or cedartone? Thoughts on best way to finish this type of wood to get a semi even tone without looking like a solid paint?
You can mix TWP colors, but only within the same series. The gray tones are only in the 100 Series — 105 Cape Cod Gray and 106 Prairie Gray — so a gray/warm blend would mean mixing one of those with 120 Pecan or 101 Cedartone. The 100 Series is 550 VOC and is not allowed in every state, so check yours first: https://www.twpstain.com/voc-states. Keep in mind 105 is heavier in solids and closer to a semi-solid, so it hides more grain than 106 will. Your new smooth pine also needs to weather 4-12 months before staining, then prep with the Gemini Restore Kit and apply one coat only — new wood is not porous enough for two.
Color will vary based on the wood type, the age of the wood, how it is prepped, and how it is applied. It is always best to test samples to see how it will look on your wood: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
https://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Thanks for the reply. If you don’t mind, I ran some tests on test boards then went to the real 6×6 pole to test. Not loving the results except for 2 indoor stains. My question is, based on the image, do you have any recommendations on how to achieve the Special Walnut look, or possibly a little lighter? Here is an image:
Before ordering a TWO product, do you have a suggestion of some of your colors that are outdoor and could achieve something closer to the special oak?
Any thoughts on what you think would be best on a large scale? Hard for me to get a good idea from such small text areas. Attached is also an image of the posts and face frame I will be staining. It is a fairly new build (6mo). It is dry, treated SYP that has been sanded. Inside is getting a ceiling and no stain.
Maybe Dark Oak mixed with Clear to lighten it. How much to lighten will vary based on your wood and what you like.
The house washers cleaned my 7 yrs old deck with sodium hypochlorite . They did not do under the rails and a couple other areas so there is still some (failing) finish in parts. We originally treated the deck with TWP 1516 rustic oak. I read that I need to apply oxalic acid to neutralize the sodium hypochlorite and then sand the deck then finish. What are the correct steps and is there a way to fix the damage without sanding ? If I have to sand do I have to do anything else before applying the TWP rustic oak ?
You should strip and brighten all wood flooring to get off the old stain and give it proper prep: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
No need to sand after.
I had a person come in and stain a pergola with the 1500 series. He missed some places and I suspect didn’t keep it stirred. If I want to stain it again, how long do I have to wait?
For a full second coat you need to wait 6-12 months, then clean with the Gemini Restore Kit at light strength and apply one coat. Applying another full coat now would over-apply the stain and leave it sitting on the surface.